Bill D
Hooked For Life
Accumulator said:hose nozzle INSIDE the wash mitt for constantly running lubrication
Ah..that gives me an idea
Green Giant Polishing Pad
- Thread starter imported_ThreeSixT
- Start date
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
~One man’s opinion~
I would have thought car wash concentrate a better lubricant than water, but as always I’m open to suggestions, especially if it’s from practical experience.
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
~ justadumbarchitect ~so I question everything ~
I would have thought car wash concentrate a better lubricant than water, but as always I’m open to suggestions, especially if it’s from practical experience.
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
~ justadumbarchitect ~so I question everything ~
imported_ThreeSixT
New member
Bill D said:
I never, ever, ever go to automatic car washes or detailing centers. I don't trust anyone else with my car after my Passat was destroyed by a detailing center. (long story)
For washing, I use a Natural Sea Sponge and Pinnacle Car Wash Shampoo in a seperate bucket.
And for drying, I use the Big Blue MF (Waffle Weave) in a seperate bucket as well.
I never rub hard on the surface and don't use a nozzle on the hose. I just let the water run over the surface at a medium strength.
Fellas, my car is Nogaro Blue and I'd like to think I'm doing a fairly decent job of being careful to not damage my paint. Maybe not. Maybe I stand corrected and the paint is hard, but I sure do have swirls and spider webbing.
So where do I go from here? I've used P21S GEPC and AIO by hand, but they have done a minimal job in removing or even hiding anything. I guess my next step is to move on to Menzerna Final Polish, even though I'm not sure how much better it will do over the other gentle paint cleansers that I'm already using. I'm afraid to use the Intensive Polish as it says it's for older, severly oxidized paint
So I guess all I have left to say is, HELP.
:nixweiss
Spilchy
New member
ThreeSixT said:
You can use Intensive Polish. Don't worry
It's not as rough as you may think it is. You can use both Intensive Polish then Final Polish and then AIO.Also...
Do you own a PC? I have found for spider webbing and light swirls, using Meguiars Speed Glaze with an Orange pad or white polishing pad will do wonders in gently removing them and leaving a great, liquid-like surface. You can top it off with a glaze like Meguiars hand polish and then top with your favorite wax.
Speed Glaze is a milder DACP with a glaze-like finish to it when worked properly.
It's one of my favorite intermediate polishes. Most cars I work on can get by with this. If not, the DACP will do wonders.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
ThreeSixT said:
Ah ha, it may very well be the sponge. I'm a believer in those who say a sponge cannot safely lift dirt and contaminants away from the paint while washing unlike the strands of the sheepskin mitt. Why not give a sheepskn mitt a try, $5 at Walmart, I raid the automotive section whenever I have a chance to go
imported_Greg1
New member
I have a friends Audi whose swirls I cannot remove for the life of me. Once I get my rotary I am going to try to tackle them again. This car was subjected to the foamy brush quite a few times, but these swirls just laugh to DACP and a yellow pad and I can tell it is because the clearcoat is so freaking hard!
Accumulator
Well-known member
Greg- Heh heh, yeah, that's what I'm talking about. When DACP/cutting pad don't get them out, you've got some HARD paint. Only real solution is a rotary.
Bill D & TOGWT- Maybe I wasn't clear- I use a plant-food hose siphon to run a shampoo/water mix through the hose (and into the inside of the mitt) for lubrication. The soapy, foamy mix seeps through the mitt and seems to rinse the dirt away instead of grinding it in (or even allowing it to get trapped in the mitt). I rinse with a different, clear-water-only hose. It takes a bit of practice and it's NEVER exactly easy or convenient, but again, it's easier than polishing out swirls.
ThreeSixT- I too think the sponge is a likely suspect. Although sea sponges hold a lot of water, if the car is actually DIRTY, the dirt doesn't really seem to go up into the channels of the sponge, but rather gets ground into the paint. I agree with Bill D- try a good mitt and really RINSE it (running water through it from the inside, etc.) after EVERY contact with the car. Oh, and I myself find the PBS to be a pretty harsh soap. It sure does a number on Souveran when I use it. For great lubricity WITHOUT stripping wax, I've switched to Griot's Car Wash. It's a LOT cheaper than PBS, too.
FWIW, that Nogaro Blue is a great looking color, but every example of it *I* have seen had some REAL swirls! Get them out and you'll REALLY be happy with how it lools. I sympathize with how this stuff isn't quite as simple as some might expect.
You'll prove to yourself whether your paint is hard or not when you try to (completely) remove the marring. As you've found, mild cleaners like GEPC won't do it. I bet that even 3M PI-III MG (pn 05937) or 1Z's Paint Polish (green can) won't really get them all out. As Spilchy's saying, you're gonna have to try something more aggressive than you might've planned to use. If you wanna use Menzerna, don't hesitate to go with the Intensive. The Final is FAR too mild for what you're doing.
Pick one panel and try to work all the marring out. Then you'll have a better idea what you're dealing with.
Bill D & TOGWT- Maybe I wasn't clear- I use a plant-food hose siphon to run a shampoo/water mix through the hose (and into the inside of the mitt) for lubrication. The soapy, foamy mix seeps through the mitt and seems to rinse the dirt away instead of grinding it in (or even allowing it to get trapped in the mitt). I rinse with a different, clear-water-only hose. It takes a bit of practice and it's NEVER exactly easy or convenient, but again, it's easier than polishing out swirls.
ThreeSixT- I too think the sponge is a likely suspect. Although sea sponges hold a lot of water, if the car is actually DIRTY, the dirt doesn't really seem to go up into the channels of the sponge, but rather gets ground into the paint. I agree with Bill D- try a good mitt and really RINSE it (running water through it from the inside, etc.) after EVERY contact with the car. Oh, and I myself find the PBS to be a pretty harsh soap. It sure does a number on Souveran when I use it. For great lubricity WITHOUT stripping wax, I've switched to Griot's Car Wash. It's a LOT cheaper than PBS, too.
FWIW, that Nogaro Blue is a great looking color, but every example of it *I* have seen had some REAL swirls! Get them out and you'll REALLY be happy with how it lools. I sympathize with how this stuff isn't quite as simple as some might expect.
You'll prove to yourself whether your paint is hard or not when you try to (completely) remove the marring. As you've found, mild cleaners like GEPC won't do it. I bet that even 3M PI-III MG (pn 05937) or 1Z's Paint Polish (green can) won't really get them all out. As Spilchy's saying, you're gonna have to try something more aggressive than you might've planned to use. If you wanna use Menzerna, don't hesitate to go with the Intensive. The Final is FAR too mild for what you're doing.
Pick one panel and try to work all the marring out. Then you'll have a better idea what you're dealing with.
imported_ThreeSixT
New member
Thanks allot guys for all of your insight and suggestions. Time to get to work. :xyxthumbs
imported_ThreeSixT
New member
So, any reviews on the GG yet?
Bring an old thread up.
Has anybody used the Green Giant pads?
We have a 99 BMW 740il that is Calypso dark red. It has some swirls in it that I was going to use IP or FP2 and a PC with. I have 1 orange and 3 white pads in my cart ready to order. I was going to add 2 of the GG pads, but have not found any info that they are worth it.
Has anybody used the Green Giant pads?
We have a 99 BMW 740il that is Calypso dark red. It has some swirls in it that I was going to use IP or FP2 and a PC with. I have 1 orange and 3 white pads in my cart ready to order. I was going to add 2 of the GG pads, but have not found any info that they are worth it.
I have never gotten one yet and while I was considering it to use on my 2005 Brilliant Black Audi A4 I decided against it and here's why.
I started to get caught up in the hype about pads and purchased some LC Orange ones, Black Lambs Wool, LC Foamed Wool Pads and some pads from Optimum
Prior to that with my Dewalt 849 Rotary I was using Schlegel Buffing pads
Medium Cut - Yellow
Light Cut - Green
Final Finishing - Blue
Ultrafine Polishing - White
Which I can get from the local AutoBody supply store for about $14.00 USD a piece and 3M Black Waffle Polishing Pads which are more expensive.
Anyway what I getting to is I found no real difference in the choice of pad manufacturer so I would end up using the pads I had before leaving the newer ones on the shelf in the closet.
What did matter (at least for me) was chosing the right product/pad cut combination along with the proper application technique for whatever I was trying to accomplish.
I know this thread was started to get feedback on these pads and I'm probaly not contributing to that.
I started to get caught up in the hype about pads and purchased some LC Orange ones, Black Lambs Wool, LC Foamed Wool Pads and some pads from Optimum
Prior to that with my Dewalt 849 Rotary I was using Schlegel Buffing pads
Medium Cut - Yellow
Light Cut - Green
Final Finishing - Blue
Ultrafine Polishing - White
Which I can get from the local AutoBody supply store for about $14.00 USD a piece and 3M Black Waffle Polishing Pads which are more expensive.
Anyway what I getting to is I found no real difference in the choice of pad manufacturer so I would end up using the pads I had before leaving the newer ones on the shelf in the closet.
What did matter (at least for me) was chosing the right product/pad cut combination along with the proper application technique for whatever I was trying to accomplish.
I know this thread was started to get feedback on these pads and I'm probaly not contributing to that.
Accumulator
Well-known member
MorBid- Good call, the big green pad sure wouldn't do any correction on the Audi and you can do non-corrective work with a regular finishing pad.
Someday I'll use the Green Giant on a car that can't take any aggressive polishing (the XJS comes to mind). But I don't see very many cases where it's really *needed* unless you have very fragile paint. For *that* application it might be good.
back when Griot's sold them, I used some really thick pads. They were so mild I just used them for glazes and waxes- and I didn't even like them for that. Too much between me and the paint, I didn't like the "feel" (really the lack of feel!) of being so removed/insulated from what I was doing.
gmblack3a- Since I hear the BMW paint like yours is pretty soft, the Green Giant might be good for a final polish. I dunno if it's really necessary though, a regular finishing pad would work fine too IMO.
Gee, I sure am opinionated about something I haven't tried, huh
I keep thinking that this pad is an answer in search of a question. IIRC, it's used for minor work on new vehicles, using special polishers that aren't the same as the PC/rotary/etc. that we usually work with. Just because something is useful in a special situation (i.e., a production line in Germany) that doesn't mean it'll benefit us.
Someday I'll use the Green Giant on a car that can't take any aggressive polishing (the XJS comes to mind). But I don't see very many cases where it's really *needed* unless you have very fragile paint. For *that* application it might be good.
back when Griot's sold them, I used some really thick pads. They were so mild I just used them for glazes and waxes- and I didn't even like them for that. Too much between me and the paint, I didn't like the "feel" (really the lack of feel!) of being so removed/insulated from what I was doing.
gmblack3a- Since I hear the BMW paint like yours is pretty soft, the Green Giant might be good for a final polish. I dunno if it's really necessary though, a regular finishing pad would work fine too IMO.
Gee, I sure am opinionated about something I haven't tried, huh
I keep thinking that this pad is an answer in search of a question. IIRC, it's used for minor work on new vehicles, using special polishers that aren't the same as the PC/rotary/etc. that we usually work with. Just because something is useful in a special situation (i.e., a production line in Germany) that doesn't mean it'll benefit us.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I would think to complete the whole "green polishing pad kit", someone would figure out how to bring that very technology apparently used on a German production line to the enthusiast and mobile detailer and pair up the pad with it. It sounds like the pad in it of itself isn't much to rave about.
Thanks Accumulator:
To me a pad is a pad is a pad. As long as they last and don't fall apart how special could they be. I'm not knocking ne1's product and know marketing is the key to making money. The poster may just go out and get one and report back he loves it and it does everything that is claimed.
To me a pad is a pad is a pad. As long as they last and don't fall apart how special could they be. I'm not knocking ne1's product and know marketing is the key to making money. The poster may just go out and get one and report back he loves it and it does everything that is claimed.
Accumulator
Well-known member
gmblack3a said:
Heh heh, maybe you'll actually put it to use and let us know what happens. Mine have been sitting here unused for so long I can't even remember when I bought them
Accumulator said:Heh heh, maybe you'll actually put it to use and let us know what happens. Mine have been sitting here unused for so long I can't even remember when I bought them
These swirls are not real bad, but I still don't like them. Here is what I will be dealing with:
Overall the car looks pretty good:
But its been about 5-6 months since the last clay and zaino. I'll be practicing with the PC on some beater cars first. So hopefully in about 3 weeks I will get to this.
Accumulator
Well-known member
That looks like a good test case. Bad enough that you can really learn what works and judge our progress but not so bad as to be overwhelming.
FWIW, I wouldn't even bother practicing on beaters, I'd just take the PC to that car and see how it goes. Just work one area at a time in case you run into problems so you don't end up with some issue on the whole car.
Nice color. After all the silver paint I look at it'd be a pleasure to work on something that pretty :xyxthumbs
FWIW, I wouldn't even bother practicing on beaters, I'd just take the PC to that car and see how it goes. Just work one area at a time in case you run into problems so you don't end up with some issue on the whole car.
Nice color. After all the silver paint I look at it'd be a pleasure to work on something that pretty :xyxthumbs
The LC orange pad would not touch the water spots. Wish I would ordered a yellow pad. See if I can find one locally on monday.
This is what the roof looked like after 20-25 mins of working MIP.
This is what the roof looked like after 20-25 mins of working MIP.
