yakky said:
(I can't wait for David F to pop in here! lol).
Okay, here goes…….
GeorgesBlazah said:
Im thinkin that the whole bed is going to haveto be repainted since its all once peice. I dont know how they are going to hadnle the custom work. :/
I dont wanna get an estimate for paint for just one corner of the bed when Im pretty sure the whole things gonna hafto get painted,
Based on your pics, I’d say(with confidence) that just the Rollpan, Tailgate & right Bedside will require repair/replacement/refinishing. That is unless there’s hidden damage to other parts like the bed floor, RT Cab Corner or the edge of the left rear lower Bedside?
vtec92civic said:
I have never been rear ended but have dealt with painting issues a lot before. If they suggest getting it spot painted especially on black don't have it. I can tell you this. Just from looking at the photo they are for sure going to have to:
paint the tailgate
paint the roll pan
blend both the left and right side of the truck bed (at the very least)
black is a tough color and just spot painting will def. not cut it.
Not really. Black(solid) is the easiest color to paint. 9999 times of 10,000 it can be panel painted(different from spot painting). I seriously doubt that the shop that installed the Roll Pan blended into the tailgate and both bedsides. If so, they ripped someone off.
vtec92civic said:
well they go off of what their body shop suggests but that doesn't always mean that that particular body shop is correct. You can always opt to fight it.
Say they tell you that they will buy you a bumper and not a rollpan you can always opt to take insurance to court. Lets hope that it doesn't get to that point but there are a ton of Lawyers who would love to represent you.
Don’t know too many lawyers that will waste their’s or their client’s time filing suit for a few hundred bucks.
GeorgesBlazah said:
Well the truck passed state inspection with a rollpan on it, so I dont think I should get **** for it, but who knows. :think:
That says a lot right there.
the_invisible said:
I am not sure about your state laws, but around here rollpans are illegal, and running rollpans equates to running without bumpers. Bumpers, by automotive definition, is the structural metal piece of object; not the plastic or filmsy bumper cover.
Depending on the traffic statutes of your State, the opponent's insurance company has total right to deny your claim on the basis that you are violating traffic regulations by running a rollpan. They are illegal in some areas NOT because they pose any health and safety concerns to the occupants, pedestrians, or other road users. Rollpans are illegal because they are often installed by removing the shock-absorbing reforcement of the car, which could lead to costly repairs in case of accidents.
If the opponent's insurance adjuster/inspecter decides to be a jerk, then he certainly may deny your claim, or even counter sue you. However, that is unlikely the case. The repair is probably going to be under $600 at most shops. Cheaper than replacing and repainting a new bumper.
Nice info, but I challenge the legality of it. There is nothing in the policy that specifically excludes customization. (Whether legal or not). That would have to be a legal question and since I speak with our legal team regularly I will bring this hypothetical scenario up and see what they think. It’s an insurance company’s duty to return your vehicle to pre-loss condition. Unless they were to hire a team of accident engineers to measure the influence of not having a “steel reinforcement” on a vehicle and how it caused unrealistic damage, I don’t think they’d challenge that aspect. This goes hand in hand with another scenario of a vehicle with a completely rusted floorpan getting rear ended and causing the floor and in turn the frame rails to be destroyed. They owe to return the vehicle to “pre-loss” condition. Many insurance companies in this case *could* take a betterment depreciation deduction.
wagonproject said:
You could have the insurance company cut you a check and have it done a lot cheaper and do more work or keep the cash. I do that a lot for friends after they get in accidents. They have polices for custom work/parts that will cover more. Usually we try to get no tape/blend lines anyways.
Yeah progressive is usually bad about using used parts. I have never had a problem with state farm. They are pretty good about using new parts. They recently cut me a check for $3,800 after I crashed my truck and I got done for a little over a grand.
State Farm & Progressive have some of the worst polices in respect to alternative part usage. They’ll put a Used and/or Aftermarket part on a brand new vehicle in a heartbeat. Even suspension which is a no-no in many Insurance company’s eyes.
Also, in a 1st party claim where the vehicle owner has a lien on the vehicle, it’s the Insurance company’s responsibility to secure the Leinholder 1st by issuing a 2 party check. It’s virtually impossible to get them to send you a 1 party check and let you deviate from the repair. It would be fraud on the owner’s part and the body shop of aiding in the activity.
RaskyR1 said:
In the case of my car there was no seem between the 1/4 panel and the roof and I simply was not about to have a blend line on my show car because the insurance company felt they only had to return the car to facotry specs....which would actually mean no tape lines or blend lines anyway.
You’re absolutely right Rasky. Here’s a recent document put out by Ford speaking about this subject.
Ford Warns Against Clearcoat Blending in New Position Statement
Ford Motor Company has released a new position statement regarding the practice of clearcoat blending.
The position statement reads:
Ford Motor Company does not condone or recommend the procedure of clearcoat blending or using clearcoat blending in any warranty or collision repair. Furthermore, Ford never allows for partial clearcoat blending on warranty paint repairs and strongly recommends that repairers do not perform clearcoat blending on customer-pay or insurance-pay repairs.
Paint companies and vehicle manufacturers agree that a repair using this material and procedure is not robust, and that over time, the edge will begin to lift and discolor, making the edge around the repair very noticeable. To resist ultraviolet light and other environmental factors, the clearcoat needs approximately two mils of thickness, however, the millage of the clearcoat in a blended area tapers out at the edge.
Ford's position is continually reinforced in all approved paint system manuals. Furthermore, paint companies will not warrant any products if clearcoat blending has been done. The preferred process - and the one that Ford approves - is to blend the basecoat color as necessary and then clearcoat the entire panel. On a quarter panel or roof, the ditch area is usually the line to make a break point. Most Ford vehicles include a
ditch area, which makes it easier to perform the procedure the right way the first time.
More information on specific paint company recommendations will generally appear with their clearcoat application guidelines and mix information.
