From PC to Rotary...

Well i got my bonus and just ordered the makita 9227 from coastaltool.com, comes with a bag and 2 pads. Then stopped over at AG and got an edge2k adapter for it since i already have the 6" kit that i bought for the PC.



Anyone have experiance with coastaltool.com? Am i cool?
 
Coupe said:
Well i got my bonus and just ordered the makita 9227 from coastaltool.com, comes with a bag and 2 pads. Then stopped over at AG and got an edge2k adapter for it since i already have the 6" kit that i bought for the PC.



Anyone have experiance with coastaltool.com? Am i cool?



Coupe, I have ordered several tools from "Coastal" including my PC. Everything went fine, never had any problems whatsoever.

I just lost a bid on Ebay for a a Makita. I am starting to have reservations about Ebay, I just don't feel so good about many of the adds and a lot of it is definately not a true auction. If they don't get what the want they just pull, of buy back somehow, anyway I feel kind of apprehensive about dealing with them.



I also wanted the Metabo but reality keeps telling me that I don't need it so I'll probably end up with a Makita also. Not that there is anything wrong with Makita tools. I happen to like the brand very much.

Congratulations on your new arrival !:D

Change
 
Coupe said:
Well i got my bonus and just ordered the makita 9227 from coastaltool.com, comes with a bag and 2 pads. Then stopped over at AG and got an edge2k adapter for it since i already have the 6" kit that i bought for the PC.



Anyone have experiance with coastaltool.com? Am i cool?



Coupe, I have ordered several tools from "Coastal" including my PC. Everything went fine, never had any problems whatsoever.

I just lost a bid on Ebay for a Makita. I am starting to have reservations about Ebay, I just don't feel so good about many of the adds and a lot of it is definately not a true auction. If they don't get what they want they just pull, or buy back somehow, anyway I feel kind of apprehensive about dealing with them.



I also wanted the Metabo but reality keeps telling me that I don't need it so I'll probably end up with a Makita also. Not that there is anything wrong with Makita tools. I happen to like the brand very much.

Congratulations on your new arrival !:D

Change
 
you can always start off with an inexpensive 11 amp rotary from Harbor Freight. Rotaries are great for real correcting, plat panels and quickness.
 
Im excited about it coming in, im geeked out about it.

I probably wont even practice on scrap panels, just gonna go ahead and use it on my truck :lol
 
Since moving to the rotary I haven't looked back. I have a Hitachi, a quality machine and very light (6.2lb). I moved to a rotary because the PC won't polish some paint completely mar free. Now I find I never use the PC any more. The rotary is easier to use and far more versitile as well, and finishes brighter and glossier. I am able to polish right up to edges, moldings and emblems, and with out taping, something you just can't do with a PC because of the pad movement. I didn't find the rotary a paint eating monster like some people say it is. I learned on my own after reading everything I could on this forum then practiced on a couple of older cars first. The rotary might not be for everyone, but for me it's the perfect tool.
 
Get the 30.00 one from Harbor Freight. I have it and other "pros" have since gotten one too. They tell me it's great for the money and perfect to learn on.



Plenty of torque too.
 
DSVWGLI said:
Since moving to the rotary I haven't looked back. I have a Hitachi, a quality machine and very light (6.2lb). I moved to a rotary because the PC won't polish some paint completely mar free. Now I find I never use the PC any more. The rotary is easier to use and far more versitile as well, and finishes brighter and glossier. I am able to polish right up to edges, moldings and emblems, and with out taping, something you just can't do with a PC because of the pad movement. I didn't find the rotary a paint eating monster like some people say it is. I learned on my own after reading everything I could on this forum then practiced on a couple of older cars first. The rotary might not be for everyone, but for me it's the perfect tool.







Im not scared of it one bit. I think people make it out to be worse than it is.





justin30513- I have seen you push this rotary but with my experiance so far with HF power tools ive learned not to trust them anymore. I dont doubt that it works great, but for how long is the question.
 
justin30513 said:
Get the 30.00 one from Harbor Freight. I have it and other "pros" have since gotten one too. They tell me it's great for the money and perfect to learn on.



Plenty of torque too.



It's a great deal, but if you seriously work on alot of vehicles, that extra $150 is well worth it for a tool that can make or break a detail in terms of speed and results.



Also the HF doesn't have variable speed control, so you might find the need to increase the speed when applying slight pressure.
 
I got my notice from CT and it shows the hitachi sp18va. I didnt order that one!! How does that happen?



I sent them an e-mail and have been calling non stop so they can change my order before they ship. I guess something had to go wrong :lol
 
I started learning with rotary as well. I was a given a Milwaukee and a wool pad with no backing plate. Just the ones with the nuts you twist off. That was my first experience with polishing. I still love the Milwaukee to do roofs, trunks, all horizontal areas. I have a Milwaukee and a Makita. The Milwaukee easily weighs 5 pounds more which makes a huge difference. If you use the Milwaukee for vertical areas you will feel the pump in your arms and the numbness in your hands. Good polishers last a long time but you can still rebuild them when they do break. Make a solid investment with a good polisher and it will treat you well for a long time if you don't use it daily.
 
I recently got a Makita rotary and I'm looking forward and a bit nervous to using it for the first time. I find that with a PC it takes a lot of time to do correction work, and the end result most likely won't be what you're after, especially if it's a hard clear.



I didn't really think weight would be an issue (who can't lift 6 lbs and a couple of ounces right?), so after having the Makita in my own hands, I can see the benefits of the Metabo and Hitachi. It feels heftier than what you may think and I can see how one would get tired of holding up these machines.



For me, it came down to the Hitachi and the Makita. I didn't like how similar the controls on the Metabo was to a PC. After reviewing everything, the Hitachi seemed like the better choice (lighter, more powerful, cheaper, better warranty) but none of the stores had it in stock and after taxes and shipping, would have cost just as much as the Makita from Amazon.com, which offers free shipping and no tax, which saves me a lot because California taxes are killer.
 
Im hoping that i can get good enough at it that i wont need to use my PC anymore other than applying pure glazes/polishes and waxing/sealing. Im also hoping that i can cut down my detailing time down to half. Im confident that i can accomplish this.
 
SilvaBimma said:
It's a great deal, but if you seriously work on alot of vehicles, that extra $150 is well worth it for a tool that can make or break a detail in terms of speed and results.



Also the HF doesn't have variable speed control, so you might find the need to increase the speed when applying slight pressure.



Correction, yes it does:



Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices



Variable from 200 - 3300 rpm.



I have this unit and think it's great. It has everything the more expensive ones have and literally cost me $20.99! (I found a 30% off coupon and picked one up in-store locally).
 
Good post guys!



While I have been using rotories for about 15 years plus, they are the best tool for correction. While a pc can make a surface look good to most, but if you were to use and compare to a rotory you will then see a huge difference and have a new outlook on a rotory.

I did a self test one day on a 2000 green explorer with a PC with a yellow LC pad with OHC, IP, SSR3, Presta Ulra cutting creme (heavy cut), and did half a hood for about 45 minutes. Then I did 106ff with a white pad. It came out good, but deep down you could see these little imperfections with a halogen light and in the bright sun all over the half of the hood.



Next I used my rotory with a wool pad with Presta 1500 light duty polish on the other half and took me 5 minutes to finish. I then took a pc and lc white pad with 106ff and done. Checked my work and it was flawless and the gloss was through the roof. The reflection was so crystal clear that you could see it from very far away.



Under half the time with a rotory and it was a night and day difference. While the pc'd side looked good, the rotory side was just beyond excellent!



So if one is to do actual correction work then a rotory is a must have!
 
SpoiledMan said:
Yes, it does have variable speed. What it lacks is an effective electronic speed control. It simply doesn't keep the set speed.



So you're saying that you can set it at 1,000 rpm's (if that in fact is an option) and that it doesn't keep the 1,000 rpm speed?
 
rydawg said:
Good post guys!



While I have been using rotories for about 15 years plus, they are the best tool for correction. While a pc can make a surface look good to most, but if you were to use and compare to a rotory you will then see a huge difference and have a new outlook on a rotory.

I did a self test one day on a 2000 green explorer with a PC with a yellow LC pad with OHC, IP, SSR3, Presta Ulra cutting creme (heavy cut), and did half a hood for about 45 minutes. Then I did 106ff with a white pad. It came out good, but deep down you could see these little imperfections with a halogen light and in the bright sun all over the half of the hood.



Next I used my rotory with a wool pad with Presta 1500 light duty polish on the other half and took me 5 minutes to finish. I then took a pc and lc white pad with 106ff and done. Checked my work and it was flawless and the gloss was through the roof. The reflection was so crystal clear that you could see it from very far away.



Under half the time with a rotory and it was a night and day difference. While the pc'd side looked good, the rotory side was just beyond excellent!



So if one is to do actual correction work then a rotory is a must have!





From my experience finishing with a rotary is far better than with a PC. Why would you start with a rotary and finish with a PC? The rotary will give you a very crystal clear finish that the PC just can't deliver.
 
DSVWGLI said:
From my experience finishing with a rotary is far better than with a PC. Why would you start with a rotary and finish with a PC? The rotary will give you a very crystal clear finish that the PC just can't deliver.





I dont get that either. I see alot of people finish with a PC after using a rotary.
 
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