From PC to Rotary...

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imported_Denzil

New member
I still haven't made the transition to a rotary but have definitely thought about it plenty of times for a couple months already. I've been using the PC ever since I joined these forums.



Now my question is, how do I know I'm ready for the rotary? Is there some sort of determining factor to make the transition or was your decision based solely on the feeling of needing to upgrade to something better?



For me, I do believe it's a pretty big step and I know it would definitely cut down on time. Not only that, I have a black Acura Integra and I think (not sure) it's about time to upgrade to a rotary considering that a PC can't do everything but almost everything. Anyway, I think I just want to hear how everyone else made the transition. I'd definitely appreciate everyone's input. Thanks.
 
I had a guy at a body shop teach me after watching him for a couple of weeks on my lunch break. I learned on my favorite Bentley too :buffing: I havent had the courage to try again since then because I dont have one of my own...yet.
 
IMO it is a personal choice. the first time i ever detailed a car was when i was working at a dealership and there was no orbital or dual action polisher there. so i had no expierence with machine polishing so i just start playing with milwaukee rotary and taught myself.
 
keep it clean- I was self-taught with a Milwaukee too..that's not the easy way to learn the rotary huh?



Denzil said:
Now my question is, how do I know I'm ready for the rotary? Is there some sort of determining factor to make the transition or was your decision based solely on the feeling of needing to upgrade to something better?
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Two factors IMO:



The first is easy- you *need* the rotary, either for faster or more effective correction. If everything's fine without one (e.g., see ScottWax) then skip it. If you find you're spending too much time or not getting the marring out, then consider it. I got mine because I simply couldn't correct the Audis without spending hours per panel.



The second is a personal question that only you can answer: do you have the proper knowledge base and mindset? Rotaries are all about potential damage and there are a lot of factors that don't exist to any real degree with the PC (e.g., heat). You have to know what can/will happen if you do certain things and you have to work at doing *everything* properly all the time. There's a very narrow margin of error. People who get careless, distracted, fatigued, etc. had better be mighty careful with a rotary. OTOH, people who have the requisite knowledge base and the right mindset shouldn't have any problems at all...but even then [stuff] *does* happen and there's always the chance that you'll make a mistake that can only be fixed with a paintgun.



Get the rotary ;)
 
^^^^What Accumulator said^^^^





I moved up for time (but it hasn't helped speed me up much yet, dang hard clears), hard clears, and not having enough correction power for my own vehicle (horrible acid rain etching)



Thomas (Tdekany) gave me some trainning one night on my own car (thanks again Thomas) then I just started using it on other cars. Keep the speeds low, stay away from edges, especially sharp edges and painted plastic edges, and keep it moving. You will learn to control it with practice. There are several threads that go over how to operate it.
 
i found it kinda of easy to learn. cause i did not have anyone standing over me telling me how much could get damaged. so i was relaxed and calm. after i had been using it for like 2 months and was comfortable with it to use on any car that came my way then someone told me how much damage could be done with it and that made me nervous and started to doubt my abilities. i got over it. it really it not that hard to learn a rotary without causing damage. just remember because it can run at 3000rpm's dose not mean it HAS to. 1500rpm's at most make sure you have enough product to keep pad and surface lubricated and DO NOT let it sit in one spot. KEEP IT MOVING. and you can move it alot faster than you can a DA polisher.
 
keep it clean- Heh heh, your initial experinces sound a lot less stressful than mine. I was handed the Milwaukee (wool pad), and told that if I messed up the new cars I'd be a) fired and b) responsible for the repairs. Yep, I was the dreaded untrained kid with a rotary doing new-car prep, but luckily things worked out just fine. Funny how far a little common sense can take you ;) And things were easier back in the days of single stage.
 
There was a good thread with a video of someone fixing rain spots on the front bumper of a Porsche. He wetsanded and then polished it all the way back with a rotary. I can't seem to find it and I really need to get back to work. :D



Anyway, it just showed how he always kept it moving, stepped up polishes gradually as needed, etc. I think it is really common sense, there's no black magic to it. I've only used a PC at this point, but I can really see how for major correction, it could really speed things up.
 
I want one sooooo bad, just cant afford one. They are double the price of a PC and the better ones are more than double.
 
I've got both, PC and Makita. Sounds crazy but, if the car I'm doing just needs a good cleaning/polishing, I'll grab the PC. I know it's a vibrating, noisey little machine, but I can go to town with it and NOT worry about any "opps". With a rotary, you HAVE to be respectful and careful, especially around trim pieces and any part that's not metal (bumpers). I know I just need more practice, but unless I'm trying to get out some bad scratches in a hard clear coat (like BMW) then I'll grab the PC. Now, if you're doing a boat - rotary all the way!!
 
Coupe said:
I want one sooooo bad, just cant afford one. They are double the price of a PC and the better ones are more than double.
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rotaries do cost alittle more but they cut down your time. instead of stepping down the product and pad 3 times with a PC before appling wax or sealant now with a rotary you can do it in 2 steps. plus with PC you have go slow. rotary can move faster. PC will take 1 hour to do 1 step for whole car. rotary 30 minutes
 
keep_it_clean said:
rotaries do cost alittle more but they cut down your time. instead of stepping down the product and pad 3 times with a PC before appling wax or sealant now with a rotary you can do it in 2 steps. plus with PC you have go slow. rotary can move faster. PC will take 1 hour to do 1 step for whole car. rotary 30 minutes
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I totaly understand the superiority of rotary, just dont have $300+ to shell out at the moment. Once i do though, i WILL be buying one.
 
Coupe said:
I totaly understand the superiority of rotary, just dont have $300+ to shell out at the moment. Once i do though, i WILL be buying one.
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where you looking at? i see them for $170-$200 not $300.
 
JuneBug said:
300? Got my Makita for 199.95 and they threw in a bag, backing plate, & 2 wool pads.
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he was talking about the metabo for $300 not the makita. i have found the makita with backing plate 2 pads side handle wrench bag and 2007 women of makita calendar for $175
 
I found the makita at coastal tool for $159+$8.50 shipping and it comes with a BP and 2 wool pads and a carrying bag. I think im gonna order it today, i should be getting my bonus this week anyways lol
 
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