Flex or Makita?

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DetailnByDustn

New member
Okay I been detailing with a PC for the last two years, done about 120 cars with it, and love it but wanting to purchase something that works better and removes the most imperfections in the paints clear coat, I'm kind of scared of using a rotary because of burning the clear, but don't car to practice on a lot of old hoods until i get the hang of the new machine.



I've heard a lot of good reviews about the flex, most of them saying its a lot better than the pc, removing the most imperfections, and its still pretty safe as far as not burning the clear as bad as a rotary.



So if you were wanting to buy either a Flex or a Makita which one would you buy? Be in thought I still own a pc, If I bought the makita. Thanks
 
Boy, you're going to get answers on both sides of that, as you perhaps have seen in every other thread that asks this question.



Flex 3401 is a good machine, definitely a lot more effective than a PC, arguably safer than a rotary.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Boy, you're going to get answers on both sides of that, as you perhaps have seen in every other thread that asks this question.



Flex 3401 is a good machine, definitely a lot more effective than a PC, arguably safer than a rotary.
Click to expand...



That's what I was hoping for, Ill get the pros and cons off both sides haha, the flex is almost twice as much as the makita is it worth the price difference?
 
I keep hearing folks having issues with the Flex unit. Since you have a PC,

get the Makita (which is all i use). Heck, i'm thinking of getting PC just to see

what the fuss is all about.
 
I <3 my Makita.







It's made corrections SOOOOO much easier and faster. And when dealing with boats, there's no match. I've tried a DeWalt, and a Flex... for all-day work, I'll take the Makita over anything,
 
I have the 9227, a Flex rotary w/4" plate and the Flex DA. If you are asking about a 9227 vs. the DA given your limited experience, I would suggest you give the DA a shot. The Flex DA with 5.5 pads does an awesome bit of work and can actually provide some pretty impressive correction. I personally prefer a rotary, better correction and a lot less vibration. But, again, I think it may be in your best interest to move a stage at a time. Get the DA and continue to use it, even after you step up to a rotary.



Andy
 
I have used the makita and the flex rotary v3403. I have to say the Makita is a smoother operating machine, its much more silent. The lowest RPM on flex is 1100 and its kinda loud.



I have the flex and use it on every correction and the noise isn't really a factor for me, I use an iphone and listen music with ear buds while I'm detailing to drown out the noise. The Flex is a lighter weight machine and doesn't tire me out as quickly as say the makita did when I used it....
 
DetailnByDustn- I have Makita and Metabo rotaries, but haven't touched them *once* since I got my Flex 3401.



When you say you "don't care to practice.." with the rotary, I think it's a simple matter to say the Flex 3401 would be better for you.
 
How effective is the Flex for compounding wet sanded fresh paint?

These jobs can pay quite well. So, with a rotary and PC, you're covered.
 
I think that would be getting WAY ahead of one's self! This kid is pretty new to the game and, if I remember corectly, doesn't have much, if any, experience correcting finish. So, wetsanding should be a while down the road. I don't know that I would personally use the 3401 for finishing wet sanding. At level 6, with the correct pad/chem combo, I'm sure it's capable.



Andy
Flashtime said:
How effective is the Flex for compounding wet sanded fresh paint?

These jobs can pay quite well. So, with a rotary and PC, you're covered.
Click to expand...
 
Flashtime said:
How effective is the Flex for compounding wet sanded fresh paint?
Click to expand...



It'll work fine. I've taken out 2K and finer sanding marks with a PC/4" and I've taken out much worse marring than that with the Flex.



Sanding marks are just marring, nothing special IMO, not really any different from any other type of scratch :nixweiss The last time I took out 2K scratches I *did* use a rotary, but I had much worse issues on the next panel that came out just fine during my then-first-try experiments with the Flex.
 
If you already have a PC, I recommend a Makita...



Isn't the Flex a combination of the 2? Never used one myself, never felt the need to have another tool since the Makita and PC make such a perfect combo...
 
Okay from what I'am reading, the flex is the best choice because its safer and almost has the same correcting power as the makita, I'm I right in this statement? Yeah I haven't done a lot of correction work yet, Ive got maybe 88 hours of experience in corrects, I've done about everything but wetsanding, scared to do it, just like using the rotary :(
 
I agree, it is marring but quite a lot of it, sometimes in very tricky areas.

And doing paint correction as a profession, odds are, despite ones best efforts,

paint will be burned. Getting started early with a rotary, even just to practice,

sounds like a better investment than the FLex.



It's been a long while since i've burnt through. I was told to compound at very

high rpm's (2000rpm +). This was my first mistake that lead to problems and

probably for many others too; leading to the notion that a rotary is dangerous.

And the suggested rpm's on bottles don't help either.



I shoot soft and harder clears. And regardless of the type, neither high rpm's

nor great pressure is necessary - which might be when using a PC/Flex.

Leveling 2000/2500 grit marks can be efficiently achieved at around 1000rpm.

Or even less, moving slow and deliberately. With little to no pressure.

It's very safe to me and much more efficient than it seems.



2 cents...
 
Don't fear it. Paint knows when you're afraid and all sorts of shiatsu can happen when you are...



Just get a rotary. You'll see that there never was anything to fear.



:)
 
Flashtime said:
Don't fear it. Paint knows when you're afraid and all sorts of shiatsu can happen when you are...



Just get a rotary. You'll see that there never was anything to fear.



:)
Click to expand...



Thanks Flashtime, I think that what I'm going to do,



Before using the rotary on customers cars:



1) Learn Proper Rpms, Study and watch detailing techniques with a makita rotary



2) :waxing: Practice and learn on my friends used car dealership haha :)



3) Use it only for really bad cases! then finish off with a PC



4) Take my time, and learn it right before jumping head first!



Reason why I chose the rotary over the flex: If I had to start all over again, I would of chosen the Flex right off the bat, but since I bought a pc and the rotary is a little cheaper than the flex, and does slight better results. I would love to have both the makita and the Flex, but since money doesn't grow on trees... Ill have to go with just the makita right now,



Anyone have any ideas on what pads, to use and settings? Ex: Purple Wool, Wool, CSS Pads?
 
TufBuf.jpg


P1010240.jpg






Thanks to David, i'm kinda enamored with these wool pads. I have the 6" that

would sit flush with the W66 but wanted to see how the 7" worked. It works.

This pad and M105, working low and slow, is great combo. And, naturally,

various LC foam pads. The LC Purple wool thing is...not sure what it's good for.

The LC wool pads also suck; gets too dense.



TufBuf Black Natural Lambswool Polishing Pad [TUFB-01] - $1.90 : MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC



Yes, work SLOW. Unless you have feet for hands and whack at the panels

like monkey at full speed, you should be fine... Take your time. Be extremely

deliberate. Get a few practice panels (i.e. moms minivan, friends beater).



I keep having to say this: I strictly work on my own paint jobs and may

polish out adjacent panels that haven't been refinished to match the

fresh paint.
 
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