FK1000P vs. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze

TheMeanGreen

New member
Hey guys, I am new here on the forum, and am in the process of advancing my detailing skills. I am doing this before I go to work, so I am sorry that I cannot introduce my self. Anyways, I am seeking advice on which product is more desired. I live in Texas, so these summers are very hot, and the past few winters have been very cold for Texas. I am wondering which product will last the longest in the heat, I know that the FK1000P has very high heat rating of 250 degree F, I have measured paint temps that are consistently around 180 degrees in sunlight, on dark cars. Will the FK1000P stand up to this abuse for an extended amount of time, like five months? I do know that both products are sealants, and was also wondering if the Klasse Sealant will stand up to the recorded high heats? Sorry if this post is jumbled, I am in a hurry.


Thanks for your help!

Collin
 
Collin, welcome aboard! Do you own both products or do you need to purchase them?

I own both and I'd have a difficult time picking one over the other. They'd both be excellent and durable in the scenario you mention.
 
Tom P, I do not own either of the products, that is one reason why I am searching for some help in order to make a more informed decision.
 
Well, you'll need to purchase both parts of the Klasse system, IMO.

You'll have to compare that to the cost of a tin of FK1000p plus some sort of polish, which you may already own.

If you're doing all this by hand, I suppose I'd rather be working with the Klasse products.
 
It's hard to beat the bond that the Klasse twins make. You don't have to worry about oils or additional steps before applying the KSG. And if you get pressed for time KAIO provides decent protection until you can get back to it.
 
I used to use the Klasse twins regularly, but the SG just requires too many coats to really show and be effective. I do like the Klasse All in One for a polish, and it leaves the car with a nice finish. I bought the FK 1000p and put it on top of the KAIO. It is much nicer than the Klasse SG, feels thicker ans slicker and easy to apply. I'm happy with it, we''ll see how it lasts the summer, I may do a second coat.. Wife complained of the smell when she washed the MF towels afterwards, though. the Collonite was my next choice.

Will be looking for alternatives to the KAIO after I run out, which will be early next year. Any suggestions?
 
TheMeanGreen- Welcome to Autopia!

I have extensive experience with both KSG and FK1000P. For almost all applications I've quit using KSG in favor of the FK1000P.

The benefits of KSG aren't significant IME unless you apply at least four layers (and I consider six or ecven more to be much better). Fewer than three layers and it won't last much, if any, longer than a lot of other products. At four layers it achieves the best look it'll get (and it's a bit of a signature look that some don't like on some paints, same goes for the FK1000P as well). Six layers lasts a good long time and allows you to easily "clay the KSG clean" without the clay stripping it (at least if you do the claying properly ;) ).

With FK1000P you can do one coat, wait until the next wash and do another, and maybe repeat that again after a while and it will IME equal the durability of the many (more) coats of KSG. Then just add another coat whenever you think you oughta, or when you have the inclination.

Both protect fine against bugs/bird bombs. Both wash clean easily, but the FK1000P is superior in this regard especially over time.

One unique feature of KSG is that if you layer it quite heavily (which I'd always do if using it at all, can't overemphasize that!) it will end up with a significant "build film" on the vehicle, a truly protective physical barrier that IME is unique among waxes and sealant.

With the conditions you described, *any* product short of a coating might be hard-pressed to last 5 months, but IMO you did chose the right two to pick between. I'd do the FK1000P if only because you don't need to layer it as heavily.

These days I only use KSG on exterior smooth/shiny black plastic and other exterior plastic/rubber/etc. trim; I use it for that "protective barrier"-effect. I no longer use it on paint or wheels although I did for many years.

And FWIW I find KAIO by itself to be very short-lived so if at all possible I'd get a coat of KSG on top of it right away.

FWIW#2 I find that KAIO can *NOT* strip polishing oils left by products like M205. I've always done a thorough stripping of polishing oils before using the Klasse twins.

FK1000p bonds to various things quite well. People here have used it over glazes with no problems and I use it over polishes that leave some protection behind (e.g., 1Z Pro-Line Metallic Polish) and also over various All-in-One products (e.g., both KAIO and ZAIO).

If working by hand, I myself would probably go with a combo like Zaino AIO topped with FK1000P.

Both KSG and FK1000P should be applied *VERY* thin...one ounce of KSG is more than I'd use on a Suburban. If you use too much both can be a PIA to buff off, with the KSG being the harder of the two. That said, I myself find both easy to use (thin application, let dry until passes the "finger-swipe" test, fog with your breath, buff off with plush MF). If you apply KSG to exterior trim, use the wipe-on-wipe-off method instead of letting it dry (I've used FK1000P on trim but don't advise that others try it..do *NOT* let that stuff dry on trim).
 
Thank you for all of the replies guys!!

I am really starting a brand new paint regimen, on the past lighter color cars in the family, I have gotten away with OTC products and have gotten good results, now with my personal vehicle being a dark green and the mom having a black car, this stuff just doesn't work or leave amazing results.

Here is my grocery list of new tools:


[TABLE="width: 448"]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 5"]Porter Cable 5.5 x 7/8 Inch CCS Foam Pad Kit[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 7"]Blue Hawk 3-Pack Polyester Angle Sash Paint Brush Variety Pack[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 3"]AMMO Microfiber Towels[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 4"]Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 3"]Meguairs Tire and Trim Gel[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 4"]Collinite Super DoubleCoat #476[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 5"]Meguiars Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 5"]Meguiars Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 3"]Griot's Garage Glass Polish[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 3"]Rain-x Original Glass[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 4"]Waffle Weave Microfiber Glass Towel[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 5"]Griot's Garage 6 Inch Glass Polishing Pads[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 5"]The 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 4"]The 3M Headlight Lens Refill Kit[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 4"]U-Pol Products 0796 Clear CLEAR#1[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Maybe the Griot's garage Finest Microfiber Bundle


For myself as a college kid, this is a lot of coin to drop, but that's why I have been saving all summer so far, and will likely purchase at the end of summer. I have read good things about the Meg's 105/205, and do like, as mentioned that the FK is oil friendly and that I can match protection of the KSG with fewer coats. I am going with Collinite 476s for the top layer of wax. My car is not garaged, and it sits outside here in West Texas, if you know anything about West Texas you know that it is very dusty and dirty, and dirty sandy water falls from the sky when it rains. To keep an ungaraged DD clean requires a wash every three days, if not every two days. It's a pain in the butt. Will either product stand up to being applied one day, being washed the next, then reapplied the day of the wash over consecutive days?


Anybody have experience with AMMO Skin? I want to trying it so badly after seeing Larry's video's, but I can't really shell out $65 for one product.
 
Be wary about your MF towels. They are NOT created equal. There is a whole section dedicated to it.

I get mine from The Rag Company.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Few of thoughts:
You might want to consider the Griots Garage DA polisher. It has a lot more torque which will come in handy when polishing concave curves and it has a lifetime warranty. Handy down the road if it should fail.

Another thought, if you're really trying to save money, would be the Harbor Frieght DA that you can pick up for about $50. Just replace the backing plate (which you have to do with the Griots or PC anyway) with a quality 5" BP and use quality 5.5" pads.

I just used FK1000p for the first time. It needs to be applied thin or it is a bear to remove (from what I've read) so I picked up one of these crumb scrapers at a kitchen products store-- Crumber | 6" Gold Pocket Crumber Really speeds things up--turned the hand applicator one quarter turn in the FK1000p then scraped the product off the surface of the pad for each section. Was able to do the entire car, let it sit of an hour and wipe off was a snap. Waited 48 hours and applied a second coat without any problems. I had no problems on non-pebble grain black trim, but make sure you wipe it off any rubber or grained trim while wet. I missed a few spots and had to go back with APC and a tooth brush to get it off.

You can save some money and get quality MF towels at the Rag Company.

Might want to consider some other polishing products than 105 and 205. 105 isn't beginner friendly and 205 leaves some heavy oils behind that have to be removed before applying your LSP. Megs Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish would be a better start and you can get them locally for about $10 each. An even better choice would be HD Cut and HD Polish 3D Car Care Products--very user friendly with long working time and easy to wipe off.

Take a look at Buff & Shine 5.5" flat pads. Very durable and they have recessed Velcro--an added bit of safety when polishing around proturding objects like mirrors etc.

Don't forget to decontaminate the paint--at the very least a mechanical decontamination--the Nanoskin Sponge is inexpensive ($13) and works great Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge Best to also do a chemical decon with Carpro IronX also.

Good luck!!
 
The nanosponge is awesome. It does leave a nasty black streak (marring) if you press too hard!

Also mean green, beware the meguiars tire gels. Good tire products are not commonly found OTC. Duragloss 321 is pretty good and its inexpensive. Look for water based and or nonsilicone


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Autogeek is discounting BF tire and trim sealant for the PrePrime sale. Look into it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
pwaug- Wish I could figure out why the FK1000P isn't being very user-friendly for you...that just has me stumped! Last time I applied some to the Tahoe I did some areas silly-thick just to experiment...and sure enough it buffed right off with no problems/effort at all. Those spots where you missed some on trim are an example of why I put the FK1000P-on-Trim in the "don't try this at home, kids!" category ;)

Hey, I absolutely agree with you about how TheMeanGreen should look into the Griot's Polisher and althernatives to M105/M205 (*especially* the latter!). I'm OK with M105 (though I prefer M101) for aggressive work, but products like HD Polish have rendered my M205 an also-ran that I *never* reach for any more.

pwaug & alexxxx89- That potential for marring is why I'll never use the Nanoskin Sponge approach, nor recommend it to a newbie. A chemical decontamination basically eliminates the risk of marring and IMO (and that of the major automakers ;) ) does the job better than mechanical approaches anyhow(note that I still use clay a lot, but *not* for general decontamination).
 
I am really starting a brand new paint regimen, on the past lighter color cars in the family, I have gotten away with OTC products and have gotten good results, now with my personal vehicle being a dark green and the mom having a black car, this stuff just doesn't work or leave amazing results.

Here is my grocery list of new tools:
[TABLE="width: 448"]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 5"]The 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 4"]The 3M Headlight Lens Refill Kit[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
I would skip the 3m headlight restoration kit because you can use the DA and a compound to restore the headlights, but you will need a UV coating to protect them from turning yellow again.

Thanks to Accumulator for pushing me to make the switch from Klasse AIO topped with multiple layers of Klasse SG to FK1000P and honestly I don't regret the LSP change one bit.

Below is my opinion (on a scale from 1 to 10) on the pro's and cons of each LSP but in the end they both protect and both look very good.
*Scale: 1 being the worse LSP and 10 being as good as I can conceive without being impossible to obtain...

FK1000P Pros:
  • Durability (9/10) - I haven't had it on long enough to say for sure, but my oversized tires basically sandblast the side panels and strip most LSP FK1000P holds up nicely
  • Ease of application (9/10) - I had no issues and I put it on thick like peanut butter in a few spots to test what people were talking about (didn't have any removal issues).
  • Overall Look (8/10) - Still not 100% perfect but darn good and as good as any other LSP I've tried
  • Water Beading (10/10) - The finest beading and water sheeting I've had from any LSP
  • Price (10/10) - Cant beat the price and quantity
  • Gloss (9/10) - Very glossy even more when layered
  • Glow (9/10) - Leaves paint bright and light (other LSP's I've tried slightly darkened the look)
  • Flake POP (8/10) - Slightly less flake pop than Klasse AIO/SG oddly (very subjective)
  • Depth (7/10) - So glossy you don't get as much depth as with other products (Collinite 845) but up close you can see the depth and flake easily
  • Wet look (10/10) - Even when I got home to find the city had cut down a huge tree right next to my car and it was covered in saw dust the paint still looked glossy wet!
  • The tin has a large enough opening that you can fit your DA pad right it without issue to apply quickly by mechine (extra coats I'd apply by hand).

FK1000P Cons:
  • Smell (6/10) - It doesn't smell bad, but it's also not enjoyable (petroleum smell like Collinite 845)
  • Attracted flys (1/10) - I noticed that flys were attracted to FK1000p (and Collinite 845, but not Klasse AIO/SG)
  • Nearly impossible to clean applicator pad (just like with Blackfire Wet Diamond)
  • High spots may show up the following day as white streaks, and are easily buffed off (user issue not really a product con)

Klasse AIO/SG Pros:
  • Durability (7/10) - The rocker/slower panels and rear hatch always had issues during the winter. Klasse doesn't like being sandblasted with salt (slight edge to FK1000P)
  • Ease of application (6/10) - The fact that you have to apply two products back to back and layer the KSG reduces the ease of application (I use WOWO technique for KSG)
  • Overall Look (8/10) - Still not 100% perfect but darn good and as good as any other LSP I've tried (when layered 4-8 times)
  • Water Beading (7/10) - Average water beading over time (less than Collinite 845 and FK1000P)
  • Price (7/10) - Very affordable but need to buy two products (enough product to last the lifetime of a few cars)
  • Gloss (9/10) - Very glossy even more when layered
  • Flake POP (9/10) - Slightly more flake pop than FK1000P (very obvious on some points with contrasting flake, I.E. dark red paint with bright red flake)
  • Wet look (7/10) - It doesn't really look wet but it looks jeweled, and the paint glistens in the light like a polished diamond (very noticeable at night with the street lights)
  • Klasse AIO is a huge time saver IMHO and provides it's own protection if you run out of time to apply KSG
  • *no real noticeable smell from either product

Klasse AIO/SG Cons:
  • Glow (4/10) - I found the paint didn't really glow like it does with FK1000P or Collinite 845
  • Depth (4/10) - So glossy you don't much depth IMHO
  • High spots (3/10) - KSG high spots are much harder to remove than with any other LSP I've tried, very frustrating if you over apply. Let sit 24 hours and it buffs off easier.
  • Layering (6/10) - Layering is a double-edged sword in that it improves the look of the product but also takes so much time, and if you don't layer it doesn't last as long.
  • Slickness (7/10) - Not as slick to the touch as other LSP (Blackfire Wet Diamond is the slickest followed by FK1000P and then Collinite 845)
  • Protection (6/10) - I found bird bombs and bugs slightly harder to remove than with some other LSP (FK1000P takes the cake by far)

If I had to pick just one it would be FK1000P hands down, just because it looks great and takes much less time to maintain the look than Klasse does over the lifespan of your car.
 
4u2nvinmtl- I've been keeping an eye peeled, but I'm still not getting the fly-attraction to my FK1000P'ed vehicles. Just luck I guess...

Interesting about the "flake pop" you noticed being more pronounced with the KSG compared to FK1000P! On GM Granite Metallic (sorta metallic black) I had the exact *opposite* happen! Must be related to the type of flake.

I just cleaned out my one FK1000P applicator for the umpteenth time after redoig the Tahoe...still comes clean easily for me. I'm using the old EFHI APC to clean it out, maybe that's the explanation (that and the way I hardly use *any* FK1000P so the applicator doesn't get too saturated with product).

Oh man am I glad the FK1000P worked out for you after the way I went on about how you just had to try it...would've felt bad had you not liked it.
 
4u2nvinmtl- I've been keeping an eye peeled, but I'm still not getting the fly-attraction to my FK1000P'ed vehicles. Just luck I guess...
It could be the case with most LSP I just happened not to have an issue with Klasse, I noticed the same thing with Collinite 845 on my roof (flys love it). Did my secondary bumper with Klasse AIO/SK and left it outside near my car and flys didn't want to land (so that rules out location). All that's left to rule out is polish, maybe some TSO from Reflect was left on the paint or as someone else said "flys are attracted to shiny paint" and it just happens to be more polished than my secondary bumper (paint wasn't polished when I had Klasse on it).

Interesting about the "flake pop" you noticed being more pronounced with the KSG compared to FK1000P! On GM Granite Metallic (sorta metallic black) I had the exact *opposite* happen! Must be related to the type of flake.
Like I said it was very subjective with the FK1000P on my silver paint, but there was very noticeable flake pop on a dark red car I did with bright red flake (KAIO + KSG) - to a point that the owner accused me of repainting the car (ROFL)! There's still good flake pop with FK1000P but not to the same extent. Note: I also didn't apply FK1000P to that dark red car to compare, but I have redone it with Collinite 845 and it totally muted the flake pop (i.e. 2/10 for Collinite)

I just cleaned out my one FK1000P applicator for the umpteenth time after redoing the Tahoe...still comes clean easily for me. I'm using the old EFHI APC to clean it out, maybe that's the explanation (that and the way I hardly use *any* FK1000P so the applicator doesn't get too saturated with product).
I won't lie I used a bunch of FK1000P and the pad is significantly saturated with product, I tried to clean it with everything under the sun (dish soap, hand soap, car mechanic soap, D101 APC, Microfiber detergent, softener-free detergent, they all made very little difference). In the end designated the pad for FK1000P application and don't bother cleaning (just made sure to rinse the soap out with about 10,000 gallons of tap water). I got most of the product out by squeezing the applicator as hard as I could and it oozed out (Yeah, I put too much intentionally to see if it was as hard to take off as people said for my first coat and it came off easily IMHO but the 2nd layer I put on like KSG -very thin)

Oh man am I glad the FK1000P worked out for you after the way I went on about how you just had to try it...would've felt bad had you not liked it.
I am so glad too! There's no need to feel bad (if I didn't like it) unless you're making the stuff (but I appreciate the empathy none the less). The best thing about FK1000P is how my car always looks good and it is so easy to clean (nothing sticks). I was able to literally blow a dead bug of the paint with my breath it's so slick (no QD/WW or microfiber). I'm thinking of moving away from my dreadlock wash mitt's too (noticed very, very light marring in a few places but could be the kids rubbing against the car). I was thinking of just pressure rinsing, foam lance, flood rising and forced air drying (unless it's heavily soiled) to reduce my contact with the paint. Unless you have something between the BHB and a wash mitt to suggest?
 
I just used FK1000p for the first time. With Accumulators "scare" tacktics about applying it thin(lol) I picked up one of these crumb scrapers at a kitchen products store-- Crumber | 6" Gold Pocket Crumber Really speeds things up--turned the hand applicator (red B&S dual pad) one quarter turn in the FK1000p then scraped the product off the surface of the pad for each section. Did the entire car then came back and buffed off in a snap. Waited 48 hours and applied a second thin coat with no problems.

Car is Granite Green (light green with a grey tinge) and the flake really popped with the FK1000.

Our garage seems to fill up with flys this time of year when I have the door open and haven't seen any collecting on the car/FK1000.

Built one of these "Pad Washers" http://www.autopia.org/forums/auto-detailing-videos/181727-ghetto-pad-washer.html Soaked the FK1000 pads in Dawn solution for a few hours, sqeezed them out, sprayed with Awesome Orange Degreaser then washed them in the pad washer--after 24 hours air drying they seem to be good as new although I will dedicate them to FK1000.
 
pwaug- Glad things are going well with the FK1000P! Yeah, that "scrape off/out the excess" is a good idea, glad I scared you into taking that thin THIN *THIN* application seriously :D

Bet that color looks great with it, and I'm glad you're not experiencing 4u2nvinmtls's bug attraction!

4u2nvinmtl- Yeah, between the FK1000P and all the pad cleaning product I bet it *did* take a lot of rinsing!

IME you can get things very clean with the (relatively fresh) FK1000P by just pressure-rinsing and blow-drying. Not Autopian-clean, but nice for Real Life. Using a BHB/foamgun combo after the pressure-rinse might get it truly clean since you don't let it get as nasty as I do between washes. (There I go with the BHB/foamgun again :o )

On the mitts, I wonder what kind of diff you'd experience if you switched to a convenional sheepskin mitt instead of the dreadlock-type. And when doing a real wash, a good rinseless wash product as a drying aid adds a margin of safey just in case you didn't quite get all the dirt off.

Oh, and it must've been very gratifying when the owner of that red car was thinking "repaint"!
 
pwaug:

The reason that I am choosing to go with a PC cable is because I know that it is a quality tool, I like quality tools and if I had the experience, I would go for a Rupes or Flex without hesitation!! And for my applications, a repainted 98 Accord and an 06 BMW X3, I don't think I will need a super strong machine. As far as removing wax, I don't that that is an issue for me and I have a silicone spatula that I can use. One summer the Detailer and I detailed a boat every weekend, one weekend we waxed it with Collinite 885, the following week we saw that we missed some on a white area of the gel coat, long story short it wasn't too bad to remove, just took some elbow grease:bigups I have been looking at The Rag Company, Microfiber Tech, and Autopia, so towels will most likely be sourced from one of, if not all of these companies. I have used Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #1 before, so heavy cutting is something that is not new to me; but on a rotary and drill primarly comes that experience, Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is my go to for hand application. I am not entirely new to true detailing. The summer going into, and out of freshman year of college I worked with a professional detailer and have worked for a higher end used car dealership, and have been washing and waxing cars since seventh grade; now I am upping my 'game'. As far as a nano sponge is concerned, I really prefer clay, I've used clay for years and don't really have the desire to switch, especially when I also have two unopened slabs of it.

alexxxx89:

I HATE solvent tire gels!! They have the nastiest consistency and they are too much to worry about. There has been one solvent based product that have actually liked, and it is ABPC's tire shine, that stuff would never sling and it left an incredible shine, I also liked that it could be applied to a wet tire and be buffed off and still shine. If I could swing it, I would go with Meg's Hyperdressing because I can dilute it to my liking and the fact that it is water based is the best part; have no worries as the Meg's tire shine and trim gel is water based. I'll look into chemical decontaminate and see what I can find, it could be a product that I purchase a bit further down the road, I am not too worried however, when I bought my car, the PO had installed brake dust covers behind the wheels years ago, so my wheels stay relatively clean compared to others, but I'm not totally dismissing the fact that there could be chemical contaminants on the paint or Iron.

4u2nvinmtl:

I would only be phased by the smell if it lingers on the car after application and buff off, I love everything cars, so car smells do not really phase me. Aviation fuel and race gas are the two best smells known to mankind:rockon
 
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