FK1000p Beginner questions

crunchyblack- I wonder why you and I are apparently getting different cosmetics from the FK1000P...maybe we`re after different things or perhaps it`s a matter of what`s done as prep (I don`t apply the FK over bare paint) or what I use afterwards (either IUDJ or FK425). Anyhow..the important thing is that we`re both getting what we want.

I`m glad you mentioned the potential streaking! I couldn`t stand that (and if it happens on black I`ll see it on my paints too) and require all my stuff to be utterly Accumulator-proof these days. I`m not trying to dissuade anybody from using the Ice, just sayin` that I can`t take the risk.
 
Accumulator said:
crunchyblack- I wonder why you and I are apparently getting different cosmetics from the FK1000P...maybe we`re after different things or perhaps it`s a matter of what`s done as prep (I don`t apply the FK over bare paint) or what I use afterwards (either IUDJ or FK425). Anyhow..the important thing is that we`re both getting what we want.

I`m glad you mentioned the potential streaking! I couldn`t stand that (and if it happens on black I`ll see it on my paints too) and require all my stuff to be utterly Accumulator-proof these days. I`m not trying to dissuade anybody from using the Ice, just sayin` that I can`t take the risk.
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Im not sure its different cosmetics, i do think color has a play in it. I see a very shiny glass coating sitting on top of my metallic silver paint, adding extra gloss to that really makes it pop, the shine/reflection is what im going after as my silver doesnt have a very deep appearance. Its like im seeing the very exterior reflection rather than looking deep into the paint.

Ive dealt with black cars before, think that light im seeing reflect sinks more into the color as it absorbs more light...more light bounces off the silver. Plus black cars look awful if they are not spotless and cared for, which im sure you do, but i like a more forgiving color, and ive always liked silver metallic cars.

Im no scientist so theres a good chance everything just said was bull````, but i *FEEL* its correct. Im here in the FK fanboi thread because of its claimed heat resistance and known durability, and its one of the few LSP on amazon that passes fakespot review app. Much of what ive read here matches other reviews ect, i figured it was worth a buy, and i am happy with it.

my current dilemma is i want to see how long this stuff stands in the AZ heat, but i dont want my car to lose protection. So do i let it fail or keep maintaining the FK every month. I guess claying once a year isnt too bad so maybe ill let it be all of June only detail spraying it.
 
crunchyblack- Yeah, there are all kinds of "silver", and different varieties can call for different LSPs (I want a completely different look on the Jag compared to the Audis). I`m able to do some good comparisons since my wife and I have basically identical silver Audis. Heh heh, oddly enough neither is wearing FK1000P at present!

Yeah,I hear you on the black! I use to say "I`ll always have only black cars" and for ages that`s all I did have...but no more. Although the dark blue `93 Audi isn`t really much better.

And yeah...for some vehicles, like our A8/S8, I think silver is the exact right color anyhow (just as that weird version of blue is perfect for the `93).

Black would be problematic for me in the *functional* sense out there in AZ, just such a heatsoak! I always tried to get white for my rentals out there.

I`m just so curious about how your experience will go! If you have to redo the FK every month that`ll speak volumes about the conditions in your area. See if it *really* needs the claying...different conditions make a difference, but FWIW I basically don`t have to clay any more and I just reLSP without doing anything like that 99% of the time.
 
Why am I posting this? No idea. Everyone probably already knows... Let`s go with "Accumulator made me do it".

My days of trying all kinds of different products, painstakingly comparing, and throwing out lots of unused product are past me. Maybe they`ll return when I have more "hobby time" in the future - who knows.

For well over a decade I was a P21S Concours Wax LSP guy. Looked great, lasted "long enough" (although making it through winter was dodgy), beaded well, felt slick etc... Because Accumulator made me do it, I switched to FK1000p last year. After a fresh application about a month ago I am, again, taken aback by (road salt excepted) how well the car keeps itself clean.

The wax must have been attracting dust/pollen in an unnatural way and, of course, any bit of moisture clumps it into balls and the car looks like crap. Since 8 days ago when I last washed the car I`ve been driving in the rain on highways, through construction zones (mud on the road in rain, dust everywhere in the dry) every other day, parked in an industrial area in my commuter train lot on rainy and sunny days etc...etc...etc.. Looking at the car as I walked away from it in a parking lot last night it could be mistaken for freshly washed. (Of course it looks noticebly-to-me more brilliant when actually freshly washed).

So - beyond jetting, beading and all that, FK1000p makes it easier to keep a daily driver looking better than average and "grocery store awesome" between washes.
 
Surly- I really appreciate your posting that! And so glad that your experiences with it mirror mine. And yeah...for those of us with other priorities, it really does make life easier.
 
Sorry if this has been covered already, but I’ll finally be moving forward on getting my car corrected/protected for winter and had a question on the ol FK. Didn’t want to start a whole new thread.

Does FK have any bad habits if it’s applied when the paint is in the 50-60 degree range?

As mentioned elsewhere I’m going to be using a slightly unique approach where I’ll get my big decon wash/prep (and temporary sealant) done in one sitting, but the actual correction and LSP’ing will be done panel by panel whenever I can squeeze them in (likely during lunch or just after work). The car will be in the shop for the work, but will have been sitting outside until that point so I’m assuming it’ll be in the 50 degree range.
 
Oneheadlite said:
Sorry if this has been covered already, but I’ll finally be moving forward on getting my car corrected/protected for winter and had a question on the ol FK. Didn’t want to start a whole new thread...
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Hey, I like that this thread is kinda one-stop-shopping for Q&A about the FK1000P. Makes it easy for people to find the info.
Does FK have any bad habits if it’s applied when the paint is in the 50-60 degree range?
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Not that I`ve ever experienced. Might take a bit longer to flash/set up but I wouldn`t expect problems.

..As mentioned elsewhere I’m going to be using a slightly unique approach where I’ll get my big decon wash/prep (and temporary sealant) done in one sitting, but the actual correction and LSP’ing will be done panel by panel whenever I can squeeze them in....
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Sounds great, don`t worry about the temp other than to keep an eye peeled at first just in case.
 
Oneheadlite said:
Does FK have any bad habits if it’s applied when the paint is in the 50-60 degree range?
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I know I`ve only been using it for 1.5 years, but I would say half of my applications or more were probably done in that temperature range. It might be slightly less nice to work with but nothing I`d call a "problem".
 
Surly- Glad you added your experience with it, I never know whether I`m an outlier with the whole FK1000P experience. Sounds like it`s working out OK for you :D
 
I`m sure I already know the answer if I`m asking this out loud, but:

Correcting with BOSS creams - follow up with a Paint Prep wipedown prior to FK`ing to ensure longest lasting results?

Is a dedicated paint prep product (I`ve got Optimum`s on hand) required, or would something like N-914 at 1:8 (their recommended ratio for that use) be sufficient?
 
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Oneheadlite said:
Correcting with BOSS creams - follow up with a Paint Prep wipedown prior to FK`ing to ensure longest lasting results?
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Not knowing *a thing* about the BOSS creams, I`d be utterly astounded if it mattered with regard to durability. Even leaving nasty Polishing Oils on has seldom been a functional issue for me (with most any LSP); the only issue was that things looked bad after the oils dissipated, no problems at all with the LSP actually failing over it.

(EDIT: Notable exception was using UPP over the wrong things..that did *NOT* turn out well :o )

IME, "no smearing or other such issues when applying/buffing" = functionally OK.

I`m still a little surprised that FK1000P works so well over top of all the leave-stuff-behind products I always use first (with no stripping). My old 1Z WaxPolishSoft leaves things so slick I expected problems, but it`s turned out to be one of my fave combos.

But I am curious what somebody with BOSS creams experience will say about stripping after them, wondering if it`s as easy-peasy as I`d expect.
 
Accumulator said:
Not knowing *a thing* about the BOSS creams, I`d be utterly astounded if it mattered with regard to durability. Even leaving nasty Polishing Oils on has seldom been a functional issue for me (with most any LSP);
...
But I am curious what somebody with BOSS creams experience will say about stripping after them, wondering if it`s as easy-peasy as I`d expect.
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Im a bit surprised by the "Polishing Oils" comment. I would have thought you would have made sure to have a super duper clean surface!
But if you have tried it, and it worked out okay....then maybe I`ll try it some day :)

There have been times when BOSS creams have left more behind than I cared for. Extra passes with the towel, or even Griot`s Paint Prep (or their Pre-wax fluid?) to make sure stuff was off. Didn`t happen much, but it has.
 
JustJesus said:
Im a bit surprised by the "Polishing Oils" comment. I would have thought you would have made sure to have a super duper clean surface!
But if you have tried it, and it worked out okay....then maybe I`ll try it some day :)
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[EDIT: The big thing is that I quit using M205. That`s the one whose oils drove me nuts. Only used Menzerna a few times so I don`t even think of it other than....]

Well, the Big Lesson in that regard was a detail done by a fellow Autopian...the one involving Menzerna on that Yukon XLD I used to have. Otherwise I do indeed overkill the stripping if I think there`s any reason to, or at least give a little spritz of PrepWash.

But I`ll wax over top of some Meguiar`s products that leave stuff behind (including their TSO) and I`ve done it to HD Polish (and the old 1Z HiGloss and 3m PI-III line) without any problems.

There *is* the Q of how much stuff is left behind after I use my AIOs/etc. before FK1000P, although I`ve never known products like that to be very effective on polishing oils.

There have been times when BOSS creams have left more behind than I cared for. Extra passes with the towel, or even Griot`s Paint Prep (or their Pre-wax fluid?) to make sure stuff was off. Didn`t happen much, but it has.
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Hey, thanks for mentioning that, first I`ve heard about their oils being tenacious. I`ve never used their Paint Prep for, well...anything, just sitting on the shelf, but I`m surprised it wasn`t All That for use with the Boss creams.
 
Accumulator said:
[EDIT: The big thing is that I quit using M205. That`s the one whose oils drove me nuts. Only used Menzerna a few times so I don`t even think of it other than....]

Well, the Big Lesson in that regard was a detail done by a fellow Autopian...the one involving Menzerna on that Yukon XLD I used to have. Otherwise I do indeed overkill the stripping if I think there`s any reason to, or at least give a little spritz of PrepWash.

But I`ll wax over top of some Meguiar`s products that leave stuff behind (including their TSO) and I`ve done it to HD Polish (and the old 1Z HiGloss and 3m PI-III line) without any problems.

There *is* the Q of how much stuff is left behind after I use my AIOs/etc. before FK1000P, although I`ve never known products like that to be very effective on polishing oils.
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Thanks for the EDIT info as well. I think I`ve done that with Meg`s LSP over Megs polishes as well. But that was 4-5 years ago.


Accumulator said:
Hey, thanks for mentioning that, first I`ve heard about their oils being tenacious. I`ve never used their Paint Prep for, well...anything, just sitting on the shelf, but I`m surprised it wasn`t All That for use with the Boss creams.
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No problem. Sharing info is why we`re here :D Granted, it wasn`t many times where it was not-so-easy to remove. The last two cars I did with BOSS creams, including one I`m still working on, there wasn`t an issue. I wonder if the times it was, maybe it was temp/humidity or heck....user error?

I do have their Paint Prep and their Pre-Wax. EVERY time I wanted to use them, I had to sit and read the labels to make sure I was using them properly for the purpose I had in mind. That was a drag. They sit on my shelf these days. Last i checked, I don`t think Griot`s makes the Pre Wax Cleanser any more.
 
JustJesus- IMO, if it`s "user-error" on *your* part that`s a valid criticism, analogous to products that work fine for others but aren`t necessarily Accumulator-proof.

I don`t *think* I have the GG Pre-Wax, but with all the [crap] stashed away in the storage closet I just might. I do know I have the Paint Prep (still unopened).
 
Accumulator - Yeah, i like when you mention something is Accumulator-proof :) I know it`s good. I`ve had great results with everything you`ve mentioned, and that`s why I immediately looked for the 22ple metal coating.

hehe- Yeah, I know what you mean about having [crap] stashed away. There are times when I`m looking for something, and "find" something I forgot I had.
 
JustJesus said:
...
I do have their Paint Prep and their Pre-Wax. EVERY time I wanted to use them, I had to sit and read the labels to make sure I was using them properly for the purpose I had in mind. That was a drag. They sit on my shelf these days. Last i checked, I don`t think Griot`s makes the Pre Wax Cleanser any more.
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I also have their Paint Prep and their Pre-Wax Cleanser.

Their paint prep is interesting in that (last I looked, I’ll probably regret not checking their site for current info now...) I remember it being marketed as a final step of your car wash prior to performing a correction/LSP. The goal being to remove previous waxes and silicones from those (evil :ph34r: ) other car care products ( :lol: ) to ensure best bonding of whatever you were doing next.
The interesting part is if I remember right they wanted you to spray, agitate, then rinse off; different from most other paint preps where you can just wipe dry. I’m trying to remember - I think you may have also been able to spray it on, agitate it, then wipe it dry.
**Edit: went to their website, they no longer sell the Paint Prep either, so no info from the source there. I’m sure it’s been superseded by the Foaming Surface Prep.**

I’ve also been looking at my Pre-Wax Cleanser, wondering where it fits in the arsenal now. Like the Paint Prep, it’s no longer for sale. I feel like they brought this product to market back in their Machine Polish days, which was what I’d originally bought it for. I remember fighting the wipe off of the old Machine Polish 2 and 3 I cut my teeth on (probably grossly over-applied in retrospect...), and the Pre-Wax Cleanser worked fantastic for easing that problem. I’ll probably use it for spot cleaning here and their wherever a Citrus based degreaser would be appropriate (or just use it up detailing my gas grill...). Haven’t needed it since upgrading to the BOSS creams (with a stop at “Complete Compound” on the way), since wipe off has been much less of an issue.

Sitting back, rereading my post, not sure it adds anything other than “Hey, I have those too!” :lol: But, well, um, I have those too!
 
Oneheadlite- Heh heh, yeah...I still have both generations of the GG Machine Polishes stashed away. The v1.0 MP1 was real rocks-in-a-bottle stuff for something made for ROs.

I wonder what, if anything...I`ll ever use that Paint Prep for. I`ll have to read the label some time and see if it`s like the "rinse away" version that you have.
 
Does FK have any bad habits if it’s applied when the paint is in the 50-60 degree range?

I have found that FK can take much longer to dry between 50-60 than at higher temps, and I don`t even attempt it below 50 degrees. Applied it once in the mid 40`s and it literally took hours to set.
 
STSInNYC said:
Does FK have any bad habits if it’s applied when the paint is in the 50-60 degree range?

I have found that FK can take much longer to dry between 50-60 than at higher temps, and I don`t even attempt it below 50 degrees. Applied it once in the mid 40`s and it literally took hours to set.
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I`d say your experiences have answered your Q for you :D

I can`t really help since my facilities are always >60 if I`m LSPing (or doing much of anything else that takes more than a few minutes..yes I`m spoiled).
 
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