First Proper Polish - Metallic Black

R

Richt

New member
Today was intially planned as winter coat time for the car but the weather was good, I had finally got the full array of products that I had been collecting to make full use off my PC and tried them out before hand enough to feel confident enough to use them on my black car, I decided today was the day!



Since owning the car (March purchase) the car has always had a few dealer/production line induced swirl marks. Until this year all my work had been done by hand, but following the purchase off a black car I could not get it to my liking - Many hours hand polishing had got the car to a better condition but I still cringed in full sun. So then came the PC. Nervous about using it on black I went with some safe milder options for it's first machine polish. Meguiars Speed Glaze #80 and polishing pad was the most abbrassive product/pad combo I owned and had used on it. The car looked better but in full sun there where some marks in the hood, roof and curved areas under the windows on the rear quater panels it would not take out.



A few weeks ago I recieved some of the Poorboys SSR range 1, 2 and 2.5, plus some Optimum Polish. A quick test one eveing when they arrived, maybe a bit stupidly on my car without practice left saw me have a few problems, some nasty marks left by SSR 2.5 and a Sonus 4 inch SFX Polish pad removing some off the deeper scratches. Polished out but left me knowing I needed to practice before tackeling anything more than the spot defects on my paint.



The good old trusty beater car had been abused with a practice off the SSRs, Optimum Polish and different pads combos over the last few weeks, leaving me a little more ready to try it on the decent car today.



In true Autopian style started with the mildest combo first to be sure - SSR 1 on a DAS Green Polishing, did nothing on the IMO quite light swirling I had. Due to time scale and not knowing when I needed to head of today I dimissed the Optimum as I had found it needed to be worked longer than the SSR's. It meant I needed to step up to SSR 2 or 2.5. After reading a post saying 2 should deal with light swirls I went with that again on a DAS Green polishing pad. It made lightwork of most off the swirls, some took an additional attempt or two (ones on the curve on the rear quaters) but it did the trick without going up a pad or to the SSR 2.5. So far happy days. Worked in the sun at first not a problem with the SSR but desided to work in the shade by turning the car round in the end as needed as it alowed me to work the product longer.



Having had good results with VM and again a DAS Green polishing pad in the past detail I followed up the SSR 2 with this. The surface SSR 2 had left was LSP ready without a doubt but didnt quite have the wet look I had achieved/seen before. I took a guess that SSR 1's apperance would not be that much different to the 2, and a few posts on here I had read people where using VM or PWC as they looked better than SSR 1, I went with the VM. Shine, depth, gloss and wetness all improved that paint was really coming on well.



Again having in the past used VM and a polishing pad to clean up the paint, I had then gone and folowed up with Clearkote Red Machone Glaze, which had added even more depth and wetness in the past, decided to stick to what I knew and do it again. RMG this time on Sonus DAS Blue Finishing pad. It did the trick again.



Fianl results of the polishing no wax or sealant, a very wet, deep swirl free surface. For light to mild swirls SSR 2 did the trick IMO. It doesnt get disscussed much on here the SSR 2.5 seems to get more talk, but SSR 2 worked well for me today.



Some pics - sorry no befores didnt think - doh!



Hood



P9240067.jpg




Token reflection pic ( not to good lots of glare)



P9240072.jpg




Rear Quarter shade



P9240071.jpg




P9240077.jpg
 
One observation I did make off the SSR 2 lots of splatter, what ever I did when I increased the it seemed to splatter small spots around. Didnt experience any dusting but found it needed clean up on the splatter I had not got with any other products using them in the same way? Any ideas?



I ended up having the afternoon to do some more work on the car in the end so followed up the RMG with Clearkote Yellow Cream Wax after getting good results previously before here -



http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54793&highlight=Yellow+Cream+wax



Saying that I had only used it once (in the above thread infact and not touched it since) so it ended up a revisting day as it dragged the YCW from the back of the cupboard. As I said in the thread a few months ago, this stuff seems to smooth the paint out more still afterthe VM and RMG. A great product and leaves a great finish, but not discussed on here much.



Cheers



Rich
 
RMG is a lovely product to use by PC, adds futher depth, gloss and wetness on dark colour over VM. Worked on a finishing pad by PC it seems to dissovle into the paint needing little wipe off.
 
I love reading your threads because I always end up copying your LSPs. :) Nice work with the PC, I like SSR2 also - give that OCP a go when you have more time.
 
Not sure what to LSP this one with yet! lol



Been using the OCP on different pads - it worked really well on the hood of my daily drive, but as it stays wet for so long need to work out when I can stop working it? With the SSR I can see it start to clear out so know when its done.
 
RichT

So SSR 2 on a polishng pad is more slightly more aggressive than Meg's #80 on a polishing pad? From your post, it seems to me that it removed what the #80 didn't correct? How many minutes would you estimate you worked the SSR 2 on one section with the PC?



If you did have to "step it up" what do you think your process would have been? SSR 2.5 on a polishing pad or SSR 2 on a cutting pad??



Very nice work!
 
Yeah the SSR 2 seems to have corrected what the #80 couldnt. Same pad, but the SSR 2 seemed to do more. Most sections 2- 4 mins until the polish started to clear. In some areas I repeated this again and again if needed.



If it hadnt have been working I think I would have gone up to the 2.5 on a polishing pad.
 
Richt said:
Not sure what to LSP this one with yet! lol



Been using the OCP on different pads - it worked really well on the hood of my daily drive, but as it stays wet for so long need to work out when I can stop working it? With the SSR I can see it start to clear out so know when its done.
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You mean whan can you wipe it without it being oily, right? It will work for a long, long time, but I usually tell when it's ready to come off because it turns kind of clear. You get a feel for it after a few panels. But yes, definitely set some time aside when using it - the SSR's flash much quicker.
 
Yeah it seems to stay wet for so long so never sure how long to leave it and weather it will have done its work, will pay more attention to seeing if I can see it clear. On my test panels it seemed to take twice as long maybe as the Poorboys. The SSR's though seem to let you know when they are done.
 
Richt said:
Yeah it seems to stay wet for so long so never sure how long to leave it and weather it will have done its work, will pay more attention to seeing if I can see it clear. On my test panels it seemed to take twice as long maybe as the Poorboys. The SSR's though seem to let you know when they are done.
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So RMG is definitely worth it on dark colors...I just bought some VM and Nattys Blue but am willing to try something else in between if need be...



Damn...I cant believe how the money is flying out of my account. :scared:
 
RogueM3 said:
So RMG is definitely worth it on dark colors...I just bought some VM and Nattys Blue but am willing to try something else in between if need be...



Damn...I cant believe how the money is flying out of my account. :scared:
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You won't regret it. RMG is one of my favorite products because it's so easy to apply and remove (since there is almost no removal) and it just makes black look so deep, plus it does have some filling ability (though minor) which I like.
 
Picus said:
You won't regret it. RMG is one of my favorite products because it's so easy to apply and remove (since there is almost no removal) and it just makes black look so deep, plus it does have some filling ability (though minor) which I like.
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Before I order, is it going to add to the already deep shine I have heard that VM provides?



Is the RMG going to be similar to most any glaze on the market? (I only ask because AutoGeek doesnt carry ClearKote..and I like their fast shipping and discount). Looking for the wettest finish on my dark blue m3....Nattys will be the LSP..maybe with EX-P underneath it.. :think:
 
Is your dark blue metallic, or non? I will quote something Scottwax told me a couple months ago when I asked him a similar question.



"RMG/EX w/carnauba if non metallic, either would look good topped with Natty's Blue maintained with OCW. Of course, that would be my personal preferrence."



He said if it was metallic to substitute ex-p for ex w/carnauba (and wisely, as ex w/carnuba can mute metallics).



That doesn't answer your VM question, but unfortunately I can't answer that since I haven't used VM. However, Richt says that VM/RMG work very well together (as in, adds more depth and slickness), and I tend to believe him, so much so that I am going to order some VM and use it before my RMG/ex/nattys blue combo next time.



Oh, and when Scott said to maintain with OCW, he wasn't kidding. It's an awesome way to maintain the wettness of natty's, and you can apply/remove it in 2-3 minutes to the entire car.



I will say this much - metallic or non metallic, RMG with ex (either one), topped with natty's blue will get you the wet look you desire. The first time I used that combo even my wife (who's only comments about the car are "What do you mean you won't drive it in the snow!? ITS A CAR") said "Oh my god, that looks amazing, like I could dive right in". It's that wet.



Edit - sorry for the hijack richt. :)
 
Picus said:
Is your dark blue metallic, or non? I will quote something Scottwax told me a couple months ago when I asked him a similar question.



"RMG/EX w/carnauba if non metallic, either would look good topped with Natty's Blue maintained with OCW. Of course, that would be my personal preferrence."



He said if it was metallic to substitute ex-p for ex w/carnauba (and wisely, as ex w/carnuba can mute metallics).



That doesn't answer your VM question, but unfortunately I can't answer that since I haven't used VM. However, Richt says that VM/RMG work very well together (as in, adds more depth and slickness), and I tend to believe him, so much so that I am going to order some VM and use it before my RMG/ex/nattys blue combo next time.



Oh, and when Scott said to maintain with OCW, he wasn't kidding. It's an awesome way to maintain the wettness of natty's, and you can apply/remove it in 2-3 minutes to the entire car.



I will say this much - metallic or non metallic, RMG with ex (either one), topped with natty's blue will get you the wet look you desire. The first time I used that combo even my wife (who's only comments about the car are "What do you mean you won't drive it in the snow!? ITS A CAR") said "Oh my god, that looks amazing, like I could dive right in". It's that wet.



Edit - sorry for the hijack richt. :)
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Sorry to continue the Hijack, Richt...all in the name of a better shine, though. :woot:



It is a metallic...I already have the EX-P and my VM and Nattys Blue should be here from Patrick this coming week.



I guess I will go ahead and order some RMG as well...thanks very much for all of the info and input..I greatly appreciate it.



Basically VM= Equivalent to roughly SSR 1 (minor abrasives) and then RMG is just a glaze to add to the shine/depth with no abrasive or corrective qualities?



THanks in advance.
 
RogueM3 said:
Basically VM= Equivalent to roughly SSR 1 (minor abrasives) and then RMG is just a glaze to add to the shine/depth with no abrasive or corrective qualities?
Click to expand...



I think that's just about right. I know there is some overlap in the Clearkote products (see rmg, vm, and ycw), but VM and RMG are pretty different in that VM has abrasives and RMG has none, but has oils. I think VM/RMG/EX/Nattys blue will look awesome, like I said, I am planning on doing it myself. :)



The real question mark is where yellow cream wax fits in.
 
RogueM3 said:
Basically VM= Equivalent to roughly SSR 1 (minor abrasives) and then RMG is just a glaze to add to the shine/depth with no abrasive or corrective qualities?



THanks in advance.
Click to expand...



Thats how I have found the VM to be I have been using that rather than the SSR, then using the RMG as a glaze to add more depth and wetness. On lighter colours I go wth either VM or RMG depending on the paint shape. VM if it needs a light polish, RMG just to glaze.



On black, dark colours, metallic black or mid to dark metallics the extra step isamazing IMO. It adds to the depth and wetness, neither mute flakes, the extra step is well worth it.
 
Picus said:
Is your dark blue metallic, or non? I will quote something Scottwax told me a couple months ago when I asked him a similar question.



"RMG/EX w/carnauba if non metallic, either would look good topped with Natty's Blue maintained with OCW. Of course, that would be my personal preferrence."



He said if it was metallic to substitute ex-p for ex w/carnauba (and wisely, as ex w/carnuba can mute metallics).



That doesn't answer your VM question, but unfortunately I can't answer that since I haven't used VM. However, Richt says that VM/RMG work very well together (as in, adds more depth and slickness), and I tend to believe him, so much so that I am going to order some VM and use it before my RMG/ex/nattys blue combo next time.



Oh, and when Scott said to maintain with OCW, he wasn't kidding. It's an awesome way to maintain the wettness of natty's, and you can apply/remove it in 2-3 minutes to the entire car.



I will say this much - metallic or non metallic, RMG with ex (either one), topped with natty's blue will get you the wet look you desire. The first time I used that combo even my wife (who's only comments about the car are "What do you mean you won't drive it in the snow!? ITS A CAR") said "Oh my god, that looks amazing, like I could dive right in". It's that wet.



Edit - sorry for the hijack richt. :)
Click to expand...



No Hijack here discussing the products guys is whats its all about carry on!



Neither VM or RMG mute metallics, you are safe to go with either off these or both

;) but I have stopped using EX with Carnuba on my black car, it does look amazing and deep, but the metallic flakes in my paint are very very small, and need strong sunlight as it is or the car just looks balck. With EX it was muting the flakes, as did NXt, #21 so I have been using UPP/EX-p or Wolfgang. Topping wise Souveran and Nattys Blue are good ones. I always really liked CMW and P21s on my old mid metallic bue car in my sig though.



I have just added WG over the top off yesterdays detail and am going to add a layer off Soveran for depth and next weekend after a wash Nattys Blue for wetness, and maintain with OCW, cant believe it is so quick and easy!
 
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