Ferrari 458 Italia Tag Team Paint Correction by Unique and Tru Shine Detailing

screwforsurf

New member
Well i've taken the step into zaino and have a couple of questions for the experienced users out there...



1)I used zfx w/z5 on the first two coats, then zfx w/z2 for two

more.Do I have to use the zfx every coat.If I'm only doing

one coat and not concerned about drying time do I need it?

(I had some polish left over and had to throw it out

because of the zfx.)



2)I used the zaino supplied cotton applicator but it seemed to

soak up too much polish. Will the foam apps. conserve more

polish?



3)Lastly, I'm using yosteve's mf's.Is it ok to reuse same towel

when buffing or do I need a clean one every coat?



Sorry about the long post but being a newbie, I wanted do it right!



thanks for any help...
 
1. No, after using ZFX initially, you can always use plain Z2 or Z5 on subsequent coats if you don't want ti apply more than one coat at a time.



2. Definitely YES! Foam seems to be the way to go for Zaino. I get much thinner even coats and use much less product per application.



3. Better to use a clean towel for each buff, but since some of my towels don't get very dirty, if at all, I do reuse them once or twice before washing.



HTH!



:xyxthumbs
 
Metallic Mike...



Thanks for the tips..One more question...I know z6 is supposed to be applied before each coat of polish.Can the foam pad just be spritzed first then some polish so it's applied basically at the same time? By the way, I seem to get about 2-3 coats out of an ounce.Is that pretty normal?



Thanks again for your help!
 
Yeah, 2-3 coats/ oz is good.



No, Z6 before z_! It really makes the surface much slicker (thinner coats) and is said to add long-term benefits.



I do z6 the applicator just a little bit though. Replenish it every once in a while when you squeeze the z2/z5 residue out of the pad.
 
I soaked my Zaino supplied applicator with water and wrung it out. Applied some Z6 on the applicator then Z2. Went on real easy and hardly any residue after.
 
I appreciate the info guys...I really liked using zaino.I think the hardest part was not being able to see it when applying. I tried to get the coats thin and sometimes it seemed to evaporate. My truck looks awseome and the day after I apllied, it rained quite a bit. I had no water spots on my truck at all. Looking forward to doing 2-3 more coats as soon as the next storm passes.



Thanks again!
 
Also note that with ZFX you are not supposed to apply more than three coats in any given 24 hour period. If I read your post correctly, you applied four. No harm done, but the Z on the last coat prob. didn't bond well.
 
Watchout for the zaino marring

tell me how it goes.



I would try klasse.

Klasse sounds like it is the best product there is
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by TWOOD [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Watchout for the zaino marring
tell me how it goes.

I would try klasse.
Klasse sounds like it is the best product there is [/b]</blockquote>
Zaino does not marr. The applicator ( person ) causes the marring. Using old applicators, non-100% USA cotton towels, cheap MF's or poor technique causes marring. Zaino has no abrasives.
Klasse better than Zaino??? Each has it strong points.
 


I was invited up to Bristol VA by my good friend David Purser of Unique Mobile Detailing to help work on this Ferrari 458 Italia. Surprisingly, with only 600 miles on the car, these cars do not get delivered to the customer in perfect condition. There were lots of paint defects and sand scratches and buffer trails all over the car. This car received a full paint correction and a quick interior clean up, so with that being said, let's get this write up going.

We pulled the car outside to see what exactly we were working with. In these pics you can see all of the holograms and buffer trails not only on the black, but you can see them on the while also.

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buffer trails on the roof

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also on and around the doors

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So for the Wash process, it's always good to start with cleaning the wheels first. This will help prevent water from just setting on the paint surface increasing the chances of causing water spots on the paint and glass.

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First the wheels were pre-rinsed to dislodge and loose debris

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Then we Used some Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner to clean the wheels. This is a pH balanced wheel cleaner that is safe for all types of wheels and brakes and when sprayed on the wheels, it will activate with the iron particles and turn to a red color letting you know it is working.

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after the wheel cleaner was left to dwell for a few minutes, we then agitated them with various wheel brushes such as the EZ detail brush and the Swissvax brush to get deep into the wheels and all the tight areas.

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Next we pre-rinsed the car down making sure that all loose debris were knocked off, this helps make sure your not grinding anything into the paint when washing.

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as you can tell from the water beading, there was some type of protection on the car, so it is a important step to remove all of this, so we will get a Tru correction later when the car is buffed on.

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To strip the protection off of the car, we used a mixture of Dawn Ultra concentrate and some Degreaser mixed in the Foam canon.

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Then all crevices were agitated

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Then the car was washed using 100% sheep skin wash mitts and the two bucket method with Grit Guards in the each bucket.

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Then the car was rinsed

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but beading was still there, So we gave it one more foam bath with extra foam this time letting it dwell for a short time

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This time we got what we were looking for, no water beading

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Next we pulled the car back into the garage

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While David was using the Metro Air Force Blaster to get all of the water out of the cracks and crevices, I dried off the car using a micro fiber towel.

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Next we clayed the car using Clay Magic Blue Fine Clay

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Then we began to tape it up

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Just to make sure the paint was safe and thick enough to buff on, we took Paint thickness measurements all over the car, The average was about 9mils thick all over. which let us know we had plenty of room to work with.

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Now that she is all taped up, we can began

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here are some of the swirls and defects found using our Brinkmans Swirl finder light.

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Testing out the new Meguiars DA system (Which worked amazingly)

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great correction was achieved

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For the Correction process, I used the Griot's 6in DA with the Meguiars DA system and David chose the Flex 3401.

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here are some more of the buffer trails and holograms that came from the factory....

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here is a hard to see 50/50 shot

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and here it is after the cutting disc and D300

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we had the music going and we were getting in the zone!

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Here are some sand scratches left behind from the factory. These were on the rear lower side skirt on the passenger side.

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After being buffed out.

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The rear quarter panel had some really bad sand marks

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I had to use the Surbuff pad and Meguiars M105 to remove the heavier sand marks.

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While i was doing that, David was working on the rear

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After the Polishing stage, We pulled the car out side to check it over.

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Then we brought it back inside and applied some Black Fire Wet Diamond on a Blue LC pad

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While David was Doing that, I applied some Rejex to the wheels.

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We left the BFWD to cure for a bit while we cleaned up the inside, we did a quick Vacum and Wipe down with some 303

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Then it was time to wipe off the BFWD and polish on the tips

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Then backed it out for the Final Pics.


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Bonus pics:

The Boss is home!
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Thanks For Viewing, and Stay tuned for some 911 turbo and R8 Spyder action.....


 
\m/

Been waiting for this one for a few days now. Great work as always. Crazy to think how flippin expensive these cars are and the paint is peeling already! You guys did an amazing job.
 
WoOW!!!!
What a beautiful garage............OMG!
A lot of toys to take care of.............
Nice job on the Italia...........Congrats!!!
:wizard:
 
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