Dr Oldz Nuba Thread (Master Edition)

Dr Oldz

Dr Oldz

New member
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen! My name is Jim

Years ago I had a thread over at the L2D forum(now defunct) giving some quick thoughts, tips and PERSONAL opinions on Carnauba waxes. I have an enormous amount of waxes that I will never be able to use up. But collecting and trying them out is the fun part for me!
I have had sooo many people PMing me the past few years and some help from someone who saved most of my thread asking me to repost or restart. So I decided to post here at Autopia.org and will update/revamp thoughts on previously reviewed waxes as long as adding new additions.
This will be an ongoing thread as I will attemp to add on a regular basis.
All waxes in this thread were purchased by myself except for Adam’s Americana and Prima Banana gloss. Those 2 companies sent me their waxes to add to that thread back then as long as I reported honestly(which I always do)

I politely ask for everyone who post to keep it based on Nubas please. I don’t want this thread a battle over waxes, sealants and coatings. There are some fantastic detailers here who only use a certain type of LSP. We all know that the grueling hours of work done b4 the LSP process is what makes a great detailer, not the LSP of choice. So again I ask your comments stay focused on Nubas and we all have a little fun here.

I hold no brand preferences and I try to give my best representation from my experience with the product so you can make your own decisions.

Thank You, Jim


stay tuned.....,
 
My favorite Carnauba wax is Megs gold class paste wax,,goes on easy come off easy,,IMHO a carnauba should be in paste in form.
as I type this I happen to have a can of Trewax 4 seasons boat wax next to me,,I believe this can is from 1968

I hope this starts the conversation off in the right direction :)
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
I’m sure you have some new waxes to add to the list too.
Click to expand...

maybe not a lot but a few. I have really been spending time with waxes I have used trying to perfect a technique to make them work well. In “well” I mean the best possible way to use the particular product and make it the most user friendly. One thing I love about nubas and also hate is that companies add different additives to them. So it kind of make each wax unique. Unlike other LSPs, there is a learning curve to get the best possible results from each wax. This is where I hope my experience can help the masses.
 
Let’s start with a few basics:

- actual Nuba content. Companies us this as a huge marketing ploy. Let me tell u about this very simply. IT DOESNT MATTER!! Do not concern yourself with this fact. This is twisted and unregulated factoid. 44% 79% blah blah blah. It doesn’t matter. Now you will hear or see a wax that is 100% Nuba. Also false. What you are getting is not 100% Nuba. What you are getting is a LSP that contains only Nuba wax and no other wax. If it was 100% Nuba, u wouldn’t be able to use it as Nuba is very hard and unusable In It’s natural form. Here is the deal with Nuba wax,, it’s awesome but we like other waxes to in it sometimes also. So Nuba shares some love with bees wax and other waxes. We also need solvents, oils and other chemicals to be able to make us spread this rock hard wax. This is where Nuba gets fun. Whatever the manufacturer decides to add to it can add a lot of characteristics to the said wax.

- price. By far the biggest curve in the detailing world for a singular type of product. You can spend anywhere from $5 upwards to a years salary. Are the most expensive waxes any better? That is In the eye of the beholder perhaps. If you are happy then yes it was worth it.

- you waste over 99.9% of the wax in the container. Only a tiny layer of wax remains on the surface after application and removal.

- application. I am now huge on machine application. I prefer a PC type machine. These style machines can allow for one handed application while you hold the wax in The other hand. Machines cause a bit of friction allowing you to melt and spread a ultra thin layer of wax, which makes removal easier. It also saves product. The less you use, the more you have for next time. It also works the wax into the paint’s microscopic pours and valleys. It’s makes waxing much faster and let’s be honest, after a full detail we’re all physically exhausted. So easy is good.

- unless the wax is a hybrid type, it can get wet immediately with no ill effects. Some waxes actually get a better look after being doused with cold water as they fully harden due to temperature change.

- the look. Nuba has or can have a very unique look favorited by the true enthusiastic individual. This is subjective of course.

- durability. This is very subjective. I try to report on vehicles that are driven in all types of weather. How the paintwork is touched for the time after instillation has a huge effect. I can make the least durable wax last 15 years buy topping with spray wax. That’s not what we are after. I try to report on standard washes without any type of topper. As my clients basically see the wax. They wash a few times between my services and that’s basically it. A lot see me for maintenance washes and if a topper is added, I basically disregard the durability of the initial Wax as it has been altered.

- this thread will contain mostly paste versions. You will see a few liquid and spray versions I feel are worthy of mentioning tho.
 
I love my carnauba, and this time of year is when I top my existing LSP or just strip it off to put the Nuba on. Temperatures are lower. Not much dust/pollen in the air, and fresh autumn days ahead!
 
One important aspect/characteristic of any last-step product (LSP) is protection that I think you have not mentioned. That said, every vehicle owner has a preference of which LSP characteristics are most important to them, and it depends on the vehicle type (sports-car or truck), its usage (daily driver or summer garage queen), location and climate (coastal sea-salt Southeast or Midwest winter), paint color (metallic black or pearl white, etc.); they all affect the LSP choice.
For myself, it`s the look or appearance that an LSP imparts to a vehicle. I like carnaubas because of that, especially on dark vehicles. Carnaubas are easier to apply, and yes, I waste A LOT of wax in the application and wipe-off process. The other factor is initial cost. I have "moved up" in that department from OTC waxes like Turtle Wax, Mothers, and Meguiars (but still have a very small about of M16 Professional, which was very good in its day) to using Collinite 915 Marque d`elegance wax. Its not super expensive (although for a hobbyist $38.00 for 12 ounces is a lot compared to $12.00-to-18.00 for OTC waxes) and provides a great carnauba look on ANY vehicle color with some durability, which is a win-win for me.

By the way, for a humorous side to "repurposing" (IE, alternate uses for) carnauba waxes. please see my post:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...-nuba-post2119128.html?highlight=#post2119128
 
Looking forward to the evolution of this thread.

Some of my favorites include Fuzion, Pete’s 53, and a few of the Dodo Juice waxes.

Happily subscribed .
 
Lonnie said:
One important aspect/characteristic of any last-step product (LSP) is protection that I think you have not mentioned. That said, every vehicle owner has a preference of which LSP characteristics are most important to them, and it depends on the vehicle type (sports-car or truck), its usage (daily driver or summer garage queen), location and climate (coastal sea-salt Southeast or Midwest winter), paint color (metallic black or pearl white, etc.); they all affect the LSP choice.
For myself, it`s the look or appearance that an LSP imparts to a vehicle. I like carnaubas because of that, especially on dark vehicles. Carnaubas are easier to apply, and yes, I waste A LOT of wax in the application and wipe-off process. The other factor is initial cost. I have "moved up" in that department from OTC waxes like Turtle Wax, Mothers, and Meguiars (but still have a very small about of M16 Professional, which was very good in its day) to using Collinite 915 Marque d`elegance wax. Its not super expensive (although for a hobbyist $38.00 for 12 ounces is a lot compared to $12.00-to-18.00 for OTC waxes) and provides a great carnauba look on ANY vehicle color with some durability, which is a win-win for me.

By the way, for a humorous side to "repurposing" (IE, alternate uses for) carnauba waxes. please see my post:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...-nuba-post2119128.html?highlight=#post2119128
Click to expand...


agreed with all you said. There is a lot that is subjective to each user. When I start posting the waxes, I’ll comment on the protection or more so, some of my real world durability findings.
 
Sorry man. I never really read what it said on the side on the tin can other than hi-temp paste wax until you said something. All along I’ve been thinking it was a Nuba/sealant. It says it has waxes in it but evidently not Nuba. I’m glad you brought that to my attention. I still like it though, but I do want to try a Nuba that you recommend. The 3 paint colors I have are Honda red rock pearl (2006 Ridgeline).
Magnetic Gray metallic (2016 Tundra) Blizzard white pearl (2017 Highlander). On the Tundra, I would like something that would make it look a little darker if that’s possible, whether it be a certain polish or lsp. Currently the only thing that’s been on it is jescar medium polish and jescar powerlock +
 
Fishroes said:
Sorry man. I never really read what it said on the side on the tin can other than hi-temp paste wax until you said something. All along I’ve been thinking it was a Nuba/sealant. It says it has waxes in it but evidently not Nuba. I’m glad you brought that to my attention. I still like it though, but I do want to try a Nuba that you recommend. The 3 paint colors I have are Honda red rock pearl (2006 Ridgeline).
Magnetic Gray metallic (2016 Tundra) Blizzard white pearl (2017 Highlander). On the Tundra, I would like something that would make it look a little darker if that’s possible, whether it be a certain polish or lsp. Currently the only thing that’s been on it is jescar medium polish and jescar powerlock +
Click to expand...

no need to be sorry. Just joking around. Give it some time and I’ll have a bunch of waxes up here for you to decide what will work for you!
 
Merlin said:
I`m beginning to rekindle my original love for Nuba`s. ..and I like the look and feel "a warm carnauba glow with lasting protection properties".
Click to expand...

I haven`t stopped loving them. Just don`t use them as much as I would like, nor do I work on many cars. Yesterday, I did the good `ol Wet Ice Over Fire, but haven`t seen it in the daylight :(


Fishroes said:
Dr Oldz, what are your thoughts on fk1000
Click to expand...

Dr Oldz said:
FK 1000????? This is a Nuba thread!!!! It doesn’t belong here!

lol I will eventually add my thoughts on this sealant as I feel it should be mentioned here.
Click to expand...

That was pretty funny!

I recently used the FK Pink wax. I liked it. Easy on/off. I feel it darkened the blue a bit, in a good way.
 
JustJesus said:
Yesterday, I did the good `ol Wet Ice Over Fire, but haven`t seen it in the daylight :(
Click to expand...

I still like that look, BFMS is still a personal favorite.

Always wanted to try one of the Dodo Juice offerings. Hoping Mary B chimes into this thread at some point.
 
Rubbish Boys Original Edition

7DDCF0F9-D863-4411-801E-D3794000A62C.jpeg


Here is an interesting and fun wax. This is a small batch hand made wax over in the UK. I suggest checking out the website as it is pretty cool. Rubbish Boy`s Carnauba Wax Shop ::: Detailing Products
First off this comes in a glass jar, so use caution and don`t drop it. It is a harder style wax.
Application from the pot to the pad can be a little difficult at first until you get some of the wax to start melting from the friction. This is why I suggest machine application. Machine application makes the application a breeze. A spritz of water also helps. It has a nice smell of orange pineapple citrus. This wax takes a while to haze due the slower evaporating solvents in it. This is nice if you apply too much in an area you can go back and spread it out more. Depends on the temp and humidity but anywhere from 15-40 min.
Removal can be a little harder than some other waxes. I like to use a edgeless short nap or woven style MF for the initial removal and then use a plusher MF for a final buff which will bring the gloss up a touch.
This one wax that I always enjoyed to see the results. I feel it has that traditional Nuba glow that we think of when talking about a nuba. Gloss, depth and richness are all notable with RBOE. This works fantastic on all colors but I am a big fan of this on non-metallic reds, yellows and blues.
This has nice tight beading with fair sheeting abilities. You can expect 2.5 up 4 months durability.
It is certainly a unique wax that is hand made and has a neat history behind it. For me this wax is always a winner although it isn`t the easiest wax to use.
 
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