Do you use a Glaze?

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P1et said:
I love using CG EZ Creme Glaze. Can we used above or under your LSP. I have tried many products and nothing, and I mean NOTHING, made my truck looks as good as when using EZ Creme Glaze.\r\n\r\n
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\r\nNewb here. Where can I get the stuff you are using?'
 
I think glazes underneath waxes/sealants will diminish the protective lifespan, but sometimes it flat-out looks better, so depends what the person's priorities are.
 
Ok guys, help me out here. I have a Black car (Lexus) with very soft paint. I did a full polish back in Oct bringing the paint back to near perfect. Now it didn't take me long to notice that no matter how careful I am washing and caring for the car it is impossible to prevent some minor swirls to start reappearing.
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Sounds exactly the same issue as my black RAV4. :faint: I found the best way to wash is using a Meguiars body brush. I use to use a quality lambswool mitt but no matter how careful I was I always ended up with some marring after a while. Since using the Megs body brush (6 months) it's been free of marring.



As regards glazes, as has been mentioned above, you need to seal the glaze with a wax or sealant. The only time you leave a glaze unsealed is at car shows.



has anyone tried using Meg's #3 machine glaze? I bought this with my last order from AG but when I was reading the bottle it says Method of Application: For use by Rotary buffer only. For application by hand, D.A.Polisher or orbital buffer use mirror glaze show car glaze #7.



On AG's website it says..."Meguiar’s #3 Professional Machine Glaze is part of the Mirror Glaze line and was formulated for use by professionals, but anyone skilled with a rotary or dual action polisher can achieve beautiful results."..."For the best results, always apply #3 on a cool, dry surface. Use a white foam polishing pad on a dual action polisher, like the Porter Cable 7424, or a rotary polisher with a Meguiar’s Soft Buff beige pad. Use the polish sparingly. Apply at a low speed to one section at a time. Remove excess residue immediately. Then move on to the next section. Don’t forget to apply a wax or sealant after using any polish.



What gives??? Anyone have experience using this glaze? with a UDM or PC?
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I have an older bottle of #3 with the previous label. It states: "Method of Application: Best for use with rotary buffer, orbital buffer or D.A. polisher."



I doubt the formula has changed so you're good to go with PC/UDM. :bigups
 
Thanks Aflisti, I may have to try the Meg Body Brush and I guess I'll give the Meg's #3 machine glaze a try as I already have it. Is this an oil based glaze? I have all LC pads. Do I want to use a white LCC pad? That has very light cutting, or should I use a blue or grey pad?



I have XMT 360, Menzerna 106ff, pinnacle souveran paste wax, wolfgangs deep gloss paint sealant, Ultima Paint guard plus. Does anyone have a process/product recommendation for use of these products with the #3 glaze???
 
#3 is an oil-based glaze. I know all Megs LSP (both waxes and sealants) are compatible with it but can't be sure about other brand sealants. Waxes, on the other hand, seem to play well with most oil-based glazes.



So, maybe Souveran. The others in your list are either sealants or have cleaners in them that will remove the glaze.



I suspect #3 and Souveran will look incredible! :faint:
 
Alfisti said:
#3 is an oil-based glaze. I know all Megs LSP (both waxes and sealants) are compatible with it but can't be sure about other brand sealants. Waxes, on the other hand, seem to play well with most oil-based glazes.



So, maybe Souveran. The others in your list are either sealants or have cleaners in them that will remove the glaze.



I suspect #3 and Souveran will look incredible! :faint:
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Yeah I agree! I'll have to give it a try! Thanks! Do you just do a good wash, apply the glaze and then top it with the wax? The directions recommend doing one panel at a time. Will this haze or stick if not buffed off right away? IS there a certain amount of time I should leave the glaze on before removing or does it come right off after application like Souveran?
 
Follow the directions in this case.



I should try this combo on my black RAV4! Keep in mind Souveran has minimal durability so if you cant apply Souveran often (monthly) you may quickly lose the effects of both the glaze and wax.



You may want to get another wax with better durability after experimenting with this combo. I hear great things about Clearkote Carnauba Moose on black and durability is reportedly very good. Another brilliant wax on black (and on #3) is Megs own #26. :up
 
Conan777 said:
has anyone tried using Meg's #3 machine glaze? ..[machine application :confused: ]..

What gives??? Anyone have experience using this glaze? with a UDM or PC?
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#3 works fine by PC/etc. and also by hand. It's nicely in-between #7 and the "dryer" Pure Polishes. Just remember that it's functionally non-abrasive, so don't expect it to truly *remove* marring.



All the Meg's Pure Polishes look nice under waxes like Souveran, but I never see any benefit on *really* well-prepped b/c (ss is a different story, they're great on it). But I haven't done that glaze/wax thing for ages.



A few sorta-random thoughts:



I use "glazes" in the sense that some of my finishing polishes (e.g., 1Z WPS, Autoglym SRP) leave stuff behind. But I don't use them to conceal marring, only after I've first abrasively polished. IME they never really hide all that much, but then I've never tried some of the newer glazes on the market either.



I might end up using a glaze on the Jag and the RX-7 as the original paint on those can't take more polishing and the ss would really respond well :think: We'll see.



For people using Souveran, I always liked Pinnacle's PCL. While it's sold as a paint cleaner (and does that job well, if gently), it also works like a glaze. PCL/Souveran is a very, very good combo.



I've played around with the Meg's Pure Polishes and 3M IHG, and they didn't compromise the durability of the waxes I applied over top of them. At least not to an appreciable extent. Probably depends on the wax as much as anything :nixweiss
 
hockeyplaya13 said:
I thought Danase Wet Glaze had no fillers?
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I asked Bob from danase the same question and he told me that it does have slight filling properties. Most speak about prepping the finish, but reality is that there are times when 100% correction is just not possible. Filler products can be a great asset in these situations.
 
howareb said:
..Most speak about prepping the finish, but reality is that there are times when 100% correction is just not possible..
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Heh heh, yeah, I fit in both those groups :D I'd rather use a filler on the old cars than have to get 'em repainted in b/c.
 
SShine said:
who needs glaze when your paint looks like this?:P
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Maybe it is me but I see some marring there or is it clouds. :) (I commend you though. That was a bold move to pull on Autopia. You know out of all places, the guys on this site will zoom in on your pics to find areas for improvement).:)



In short glazes have their place, which was not the original intetion of this thread though. Sorry about the detour Conan777.
 
lol, those are clouds. I might hit it with a glaze in a month or two just to try.



edit: and what about putting the glaze over my M21/NXT, and maybe another coat of NXT on top of it?
 
SShine said:
lol, those are clouds. I might hit it with a glaze in a month or two just to try.
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Nah, I saw your work truck in the click and brag. It looks good. You have kept the 95 in great condition. It is the detailing work truck though and that has to stay as clean as possible. It reflects your buiness IMO.
 
SShine said:
yep, better than the beat up vans I have seen some people using up here :)
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UHGGGG! :soscared: I personally cannot stand that. At least make the van look somewhat presenatable by keeping it clean. That is your business, it gives an impression. Throw some glaze on it at least. :laugh:
 
even better is the stick on letters from lowes to letter the vehicle :)



back on topic, what about putting the glaze over my LSP, and then putting nxt/26 over it again?
 
truzoom said:
I read on here a while back about how #7 is used in a show car setting. The guy said he would apply the glaze as the final step to add pop, fill in scratches, and for ease of application.



When I think about it, it makes sense because I never had much luck applying #7 and then topping it with a wax. The stuff is just so oily that it doesn't seem to like playing nicely with other products.
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Hi,



This product isnt acutally any different from any other oil based glaze, you just have to apply it correctly! By machine its a fairly easy on-off product. By hand you need to apply it to a say a panel or two and let it sit for 10 seconds, you will it start to grow a "skin". Buff this off, wait another 10 seconds to so, it will probably skin again, buff this is. If you have not gone OTT with amount you are putting on it should not "skin" anymore and the excess oils will have been removed. You can now top it with it the LSP of choice.



I dont not know any other product which acts in this fashion. It can be applied as a last step for show car purposes, this isnt its only use.



Ok guys, help me out here. I have a Black car (Lexus) with very soft paint. I did a full polish back in Oct bringing the paint back to near perfect. Now it didn't take me long to notice that no matter how careful I am washing and caring for the car it is impossible to prevent some minor swirls to start reappearing. . I know that alot of detailers use glazes to fill in the scratches and swirls but of course the scratches/swirls return 2 weeks later when the glaze washes off. I wash my cars frequently 1 or 2x a week in the summer so I was thinking of using a glaze about every 2 weeks or so to keep the car looking pristine and then continue with a good polishing 2x a year to clean up any swirls. Does this sound logical? anyone else do this? Also the glazes state that a wax or sealant can be placed on top of a glaze. Seems there is some varying opinions on that, some people say that wax or sealants won't bond properly over a glaze but I have no experience with glaze so I'm asking those of you that do for your opinions/advice? And wouldn't a good wax or sealant pro-long the amount of time that the glaze will last if it's put on over the glaze? Thanks Guys
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I have never know a Nuba wax to have less durability over glaze. Your paintwork (and i accept some peoples talk on new types of paint) is porus. The oils in an OIL based glaze go in to the pours and fill them with the oil. This gives them a wet look, some waxes contain alot of oils anyway and you might find that a some glazes are less effective b/c oil is in the wax.



Some glazing oils WILL fill minor swirls, glazes enter the paintwork, waxes lay on top of the paintwork. Sealants, lock themself on to the pours of the paintwork.



Some sealants, including the Meguiars ones, as well as PB's EX-P and EX as well as Wolfgang Sealant all bond perfectly with oil based glazes. The later being a water based product maybe have something to do with it.



Polymer sealants (with the exceptions of the Meguiars products) tend to not bond very well though oil based glazes. For this reason Polymer Glazes can now be purchased, as mentiond DWG or CG EZ-Glaze, Prima have one as well.



Again, these will not compromise a Nuba wax b/c the wax just lays on top of the sealant. They will not compromise a polymer sealant either. All a polymer sealant really is, is a glossing/depth enhancing/reflective content suspended in a layer of polymers. Much like the glossing agents you find in the sealants themself. The polymer layer allows for bonding to take place and for sealant to seal the paintwork.



You can you use a polymer sealant between each layer of sealant if you wish.



Glazes are not just for paintwork in less then optimal condition! Products like Clearkote Red Moose Machine Glaze acutally enhance metalic pop even on a well polished service. DWG and CG EZ-Glaze adds wetness depth (darkens paint too) to Klasses and Zaino products.



PCL, HD Cleanse and a few othors gentle clean the surface while leaving an oil based glaze on the finish.



Geoff
 
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