Disastrous novice attempt to ceramic coat

[rlmccarty2000]

Humidity and temperature play a huge part in how many coatings behave. I’ll never coat a vehicle in high humidity again. 70 degrees and low humidity seems to be the sweet spot on the coatings I have applied. High humidity keeps the coating from flashing and high temperature can cause them to flash too quickly. I don’t know how folks in South Florida apply a coating without doing it in an air conditioned building.

 

[Bill D]

Coatings aren’t for me and this is one reason why. I think I’d still have difficulty even with running the AC in my garage.

 

[RZJZA80]

RZJZA80- I`m sure not arguing against Coatings categorically, (recommended one to bcgreen), just saying that different people are different with regard to what`s feasible for them. Guess I`m posting about that so others don`t think "gee, it must be me "

Note that I`m not lacking in confidence and I consider Detailing to be a pretty easy skillset to master if gone about right.

Remember that I`ve used OptiCoat and GlossCoat. While I figure that all coatings are not the same, I am speaking from first-hand experience.

Coating the previous Crown Vic`s wheels was a lot harder than using a conventional LSP..no comparison. I figured it was a learning curve situation. But..

On the Tahoe`s "Machined Finish" wheels it was *incredibly* difficult for me to do it right. Just to avoid having to do an easy-peasy conventional job a few times! That was despite great lighting/etc. In hindsight it was a complete waste of resources. Which is why my new 22ple Coating is just sitting on the shelf, probably going bad.

There`s no way I`d risk having an "oops!" on anything that might matter more to me than those wheels, let alone just to save myself a few LSPings. For me, there just wasn`t any big upside to the Coatings to justify it.

With everything else related to Detailing being so dead-nuts simple (if time-consuming) for me, *I* have no reason to go with a Coating. Again, I`m belaboring the point because I don`t want somebody who`s feeling the same way to second-guess himself or think there`s something wrong with him. Coatings are undoubtedly perfect for some people, but not for everybody and it`s not just about being meticulous and taking one`s time.

I think we`re having two different conversations here. My point was that it`s down to the user if they end up with high spots. I`m not arguing if coatings should be used or not. The fact of the matter is, not everyone can get the whole coating thing down, just like not everyone can get polishing down or just detailing for that matter. Some pick it up naturally, they have a knack for it, and others just can`t, that`s just the way it is.

 

[The Guz]

High spots are part of the learning curve with coatings. Everyone thinks it is the end of the world when/if it happens. It really isn`t that bad and it should not deter anyone from trying one.

 

[Coatings=crack]

I’ve had one on the car since May. Fixed most but figured when this starts eating down it will be an indicator of coating failing(could absolutely be wrong. Funny thing is it’s in a pretty easy to see spot and not one persons mentioned it to me...


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[Merlin]

As stated by a few folks application and removal of a coating is different than application and removal of a wax/sealant.
Waxes and sealant are more forgiving for removal than a ceramic coating. IMHO Cquartz UK is fairly easy to apply/remove.
Although, it does take a special technique/process to apply/remove a coating vs. a wax or sealant. Do only one panel at a time fender/door etc.

I use the "swipe test" to check when it`s ready to remove. The rainbow is not always the best way to tell if it`s ready to be removed.
Depending on your environment, at the time, I have found the "sweet spot" for removal to be between 60-120 seconds after application.

Yes, you will need a few additional "quality" short nap towels. I may go through 6-8 towels on a single vehicle.

Two short nap towels for removal. The first towel is to remove the product suspension layer and the second towel (dryer towel) is to remove "high spots".
The first towel is for the coating carrier product removal. The second dry towel is for removing any high spots. Wiping with a wet/damp towel will smear.

Now the sad part, once I have used these towels to remove the coating I throw them away. If CQ UK hardens on the paint it will harden in the towel.
Trying to use these towels with cured ceramic coating on them will/can cause scratches in the paint. Soaking the used towels in APC is not worth the risk

Another sad note, if you have polished the area where you have applied the coating to remove "high spots", then you probably have removed the coating.
Last but not least, do the second coat right after doing the first coat. Do not let the surface get wet for 48 hours. Do not wash for a week.
Now on to the Reload. It is a great product but is can/may streak on dark colors. Good news Reload is water based and can be diluted to eliminate streaks.
Do not use Reload (or any other spray etc.) for at least a week after the coating has been applied. (check for streaks/high spots before using Reload)

Last but not least, good lighting is very important. Pull the vehicle into daylight after the first coat (to check to high spots) and again after the second coat.
If this sounds like a pita then you are probably right but...you get years of protection from a ceramic coating vs. weeks with a wax or months with a sealant.

 

[Accumulator]

I think we`re having two different conversations here. My point was that it`s down to the user if they end up with high spots..

OK, fair enough. I`ll agree that it *is indeed* user-error, just one that I consider awfully easy to make, even for people who`ve never found this Detailing stuff very challenging.

 

[Coleroad]

Humidity and temperature play a huge part in how many coatings behave. I’ll never coat a vehicle in high humidity again. 70 degrees and low humidity seems to be the sweet spot on the coatings I have applied. High humidity keeps the coating from flashing and high temperature can cause them to flash too quickly. I don’t know how folks in South Florida apply a coating without doing it in an air conditioned building.

maybe that`s part of why I found it to be pretty easy for me. 98% of the time it`s low humidity here. Plus the temps don`t get that hot even in the summer. So much so, we don`t have AC here and I don`t miss it at all. I`ll have to keep this conversation in mind if we move again.

 

[PoweredByJenga]

A good tip IMHO for new players is to start with `light` coatings or even toppers and mimic the application of proper coating. Eg start with reload and apply it with a block as if you were doing cq. If you master it and results are uniform, no high spots move on to something like gyeon can coat or Tac system moonlight. Again use lots of lights, applicator blocks, 2 wipes etc ie exactly as if you doing the coating. Take the car outside look for high spots etc etc. Keep an eye on the environmental factors as well. This way you can practice, hone your skills ans if stuff up the damage most likely disappear in few wks or months.

I heard that the new cq light is much forgiving then the original or cq Uk3. 0 so that along with other more friendly coatings may be an option for you as we.

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