Disastrous novice attempt to ceramic coat
- Thread starter sfckelley
- Start date
As far as I know, Esoteric is the only one. I have had slight water spots but very faint and this seemed to only happen when the coating was getting quite old. Really not an issue to me. It only happened on the cars that sat outside 24/7. The garaged cars that were driven daily never had it. I think the water spotting problem varies for people depending on where they live and what may be in the rain. With Kamikazee, I have only used the Miyabi - no ISM. I have used the overcoat which is similar to reload except be careful not to over apply. I had problems due to this. It seemed to hold up a bit longer than reload. Very little goes a long way.
It`s a little strange with some products how the seller describe the application. This case CQUK 3.0 I have looked at 4 different places and they have a slight difference in the description. So much more of unsecurity when doing it for the first time.
What I have found out is that the kit of CQUK is not a complete kit. You would be getting an extra applicator and 5 extra suede applicator towels and at least 5 extra suede towels. And this is minimum of towels and the applicator block you can re-use. The suede towel to level the coating is used on about 3 panels before getting saturated and to not work against you. This is also with an application that is not much talked about. That is that you keep going in a criss cross patern until it has just flashed and then you wipe or level out the very little residue you have left on the section you coated. I don`t know who have done a tweak on the application recommendation. But this is what I have seen in the description here in EU. On Carpro US it`s the description as you have done it. But then you are going to be useing the 2 towel method of wipe it off or level it. And for even 1 coat it`s not enough with 1 suede towel to level the coating with. Since they also says to be throwing the towel after rinse off for safety reasons. And they recommend you to be doing 2 layers and max 3. This is the unison from them all with 2 layers of CQUK at minimum. Wait about 1 hour before the next layer or if you get long over this time to the next day. As Mike Lambert mentioned if you wait more than 1 day and apply it a couple of days later. I think it has cured to much to be layered and will lead to not much of the second layer will be able to bond and you get a lot of excess product to wipe off. So go with just 1 layer but don`t expect the longer longevity over 2 years from it then. In general you can say that 1 gets you about the 18 months and the 1 layer more is about 6 months extra and the 3 layer 3-6 months generally speaking this is.
So if you do it again and feeled comfortable with 1 criss cross patern and wait until it`s flashes. Get some of the extra leveling towels and the extra suede applicator towels for the second layer. And with your new lights you will be fine. If doing the second layer try to get that applyied around the 1 hour after the first application layer. And if you don`t get through the 1 layer under the hour. Stop and do start to apply the second layer where you started. And finish the rest of the car when you have reach where you stopped. This I think is needed when application on the Raptor. And remember just a firm handshake grip on the applicator and steer it in the criss cross patern no pressure is needed. Apex detailing chanel on Youtube video where he goes through the whole detailing with an IGL coating as LSP is a great guide in general on the application of a coating with the prep too.5 videos series is it that was put up a week or 2 ago. Lots of tips and trix he shared there.
Then sure it`s other coatings that are easier to apply. But I think it`s much about you think you get all in the coating kits and timing on the different coatings is very important when you level and if and when you apply the second layer. 22ple and Kamikaze I would ad Polish Angel in the class of very easy application and forgiving. Polish Angels coatings Cosmic v2 coating and Viking Coat is like a sealant to apply with a long time before wipe it off or level it about 30 minutes.
What I have found out is that the kit of CQUK is not a complete kit. You would be getting an extra applicator and 5 extra suede applicator towels and at least 5 extra suede towels. And this is minimum of towels and the applicator block you can re-use. The suede towel to level the coating is used on about 3 panels before getting saturated and to not work against you. This is also with an application that is not much talked about. That is that you keep going in a criss cross patern until it has just flashed and then you wipe or level out the very little residue you have left on the section you coated. I don`t know who have done a tweak on the application recommendation. But this is what I have seen in the description here in EU. On Carpro US it`s the description as you have done it. But then you are going to be useing the 2 towel method of wipe it off or level it. And for even 1 coat it`s not enough with 1 suede towel to level the coating with. Since they also says to be throwing the towel after rinse off for safety reasons. And they recommend you to be doing 2 layers and max 3. This is the unison from them all with 2 layers of CQUK at minimum. Wait about 1 hour before the next layer or if you get long over this time to the next day. As Mike Lambert mentioned if you wait more than 1 day and apply it a couple of days later. I think it has cured to much to be layered and will lead to not much of the second layer will be able to bond and you get a lot of excess product to wipe off. So go with just 1 layer but don`t expect the longer longevity over 2 years from it then. In general you can say that 1 gets you about the 18 months and the 1 layer more is about 6 months extra and the 3 layer 3-6 months generally speaking this is.
So if you do it again and feeled comfortable with 1 criss cross patern and wait until it`s flashes. Get some of the extra leveling towels and the extra suede applicator towels for the second layer. And with your new lights you will be fine. If doing the second layer try to get that applyied around the 1 hour after the first application layer. And if you don`t get through the 1 layer under the hour. Stop and do start to apply the second layer where you started. And finish the rest of the car when you have reach where you stopped. This I think is needed when application on the Raptor. And remember just a firm handshake grip on the applicator and steer it in the criss cross patern no pressure is needed. Apex detailing chanel on Youtube video where he goes through the whole detailing with an IGL coating as LSP is a great guide in general on the application of a coating with the prep too.5 videos series is it that was put up a week or 2 ago. Lots of tips and trix he shared there.
Then sure it`s other coatings that are easier to apply. But I think it`s much about you think you get all in the coating kits and timing on the different coatings is very important when you level and if and when you apply the second layer. 22ple and Kamikaze I would ad Polish Angel in the class of very easy application and forgiving. Polish Angels coatings Cosmic v2 coating and Viking Coat is like a sealant to apply with a long time before wipe it off or level it about 30 minutes.
Coatings=crack
Active member
Yeah you only need miyabi or ISM. Their is a lot who like to do both, I believe ISM over miyabi 2 to 1. I think only affects looks though. You can top with whatever you like but the water behavior in the overcoat is way crazier than most others. A lot like to top with Polish Angel products also great water behavior. Seem to be the best “premium” toppers out their.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BudgetPlan1
Active member
The 2 coats of Miyabi, maintained with Overcoat is the most common application; 30ml bottle of Miyabi should be enough for normal car. You can throw 1 layer of ISM on top to town down the sharp gloss of Miyabi, adds a bit of depth, richness and complexity on dark colors and increases longevity a bit. ISM also really adds a nice effect on metallic paints.
I`m at 21 months, 37k miles on my daily driver (Miyabi/ISM/Overcoat and occasionally Infinity Wax) and it`s about done on lower side panels. Wife`s winter driver, same combo applied in 10/2016 is still doing great, albeit only 17k miles traveled in that time. It sits outside 24/7 90% of the year, often covered by wet leaves and other environmental debris. Due to relatively low usage, the coating(s) will make it another year easily on this car.
For me, the Kamikaze Collection is about layering, not so much for durability but to achieve a look I find pleasing to my eye.
- Miyabi is a nice, hard, reflective gloss typical of many coatings. Can be layered
- ISM is a warmer, deeper, wax-like glow look. ISM Cannot be layered, if using alone 1 layer is all that is needed. Leftover ISM also makes great coating for plastic trim.
- Infinity Wax just adds a layer `of relaxed high gloss` but I think mostly I use it on occasion for something to do that stays within the product `family`. Either that or I just think the jars are really cool.
- Overcoat is the maintenance topper, applied to dry or wet surface. Crazy water behavior IMO, great at self cleaning. Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz is also a nice choice instead of Overcoat; easier to apply use, a bit of a `blingier` gloss.
As for the above, quite possible it`s all in my head and everything looks the same...YMMV but if I *think* it`s true/valid in my mind, does it really matter if it`s actually true? :lol:
As for Overcoat, can be a bit streaky if over-applied so I`ll usually using it as a drying aid with a Rag Company Platinum Pluffle or if applying to dry paint, a very light mist of water on a 420gsm microfiber prior to application seems to keep the streaking at bay.
When I did CQ UK 3 recently, applied 2nd layer within an hour (like 45 minutes) and had no issues. Used it over Essence
William_Wallace
New member
Stick with it you did good for first time recoat in the area were you polish grab a bunch of towels and get it in the sun right after you finish
briarpatch
New member
I`m with you on this
William_Wallace
New member
Hey chalk it up as learning experience so now you know and have experience. Gloss coat from opti is easiest but cquk is the superior product IMO and has top notch hydrophobic bead action.
Plus opti gloss coat is 10mls and they put it in giant syringe to hide fact if the put in bottle no one would buy the tiny 10 ml bottle. The value of 10mls of gloss coat should be around $20 not 59.99
Optimum charging that price for 10mls is too much they are acting like they invented clear coat or something
Plus opti gloss coat is 10mls and they put it in giant syringe to hide fact if the put in bottle no one would buy the tiny 10 ml bottle. The value of 10mls of gloss coat should be around $20 not 59.99
Optimum charging that price for 10mls is too much they are acting like they invented clear coat or something
Adam`s new coating is UV reactive, with a UV light it makes checking for coverage and finding high spots dead easy. IMHO this is perfect for people who want to get their feet wet but fear they`ll screw something up. This would be the coating I`d recommend to the me that got into detailing 7 years ago. Back then I was needless to say, pretty wreck less and didn`t really read directions lol.
Accumulator
Well-known member
quebert;2167425..I was needless to say said:Better Wreck less than recklessSorry, sorry..I just couldn`t resist
Better Wreck less than reckless
lol good slip on my part, hummm
I think watching a YT video before your 1st attempt would help a lot. When I applied my 1st coating I actually read the directions multiple times, and went slow and methodical. I was proud at my restraint from just flying threw it. The next ay I had some high spots, which really upset me since I was so careful. I was sure I had 100% nailed it. So I watched a YT video later that day and learned to not lift the applicator block until you`ve done an entire section. Made sense to me when I saw it, but the instructions didn`t mention this. A good YT video will give some solid tips that instructions won`t mention, or just read someone`s write up on here. Between posts here and YT videos I`ve learned a lot. Left to my own trial and error my techniques would be pretty bad lol.
That`s exactly what I did back when I first tried a coating. I was nervous what would happen if I messed it up, so watched some YouTube videos and practiced on a friends car. Many. many cars later I`ve yet to have a high spot and honestly I`m not sure how I could get a high spot unless I simply went too fast and didn`t wipe off thoroughly.
Mary B
New member
Yep this sounds alot like what I did with my daily...plus played it out in my head, until I was ready.
Worked out well, but I only did one coat. Because when I laid a second coat on the hood, the coating behaved different...looked cloudy, like air between the layers. I had to
wipe alot more on the second layer, it seemed. The one coat has been great !!
Yes a coating has made me lazy, so only wax and sealant on my GQ. I miss a good wax
Accumulator
Well-known member
quebert- Glad I didn`t give offense, and I`m figuring it was one of those auto-spell glitches anyhow.
Mary B- Heh heh, if "Coatings made me lazy" means you spent less time Detailing while still having a nicely kept vehicle, I`d think that`d be a feature!
Mary B- Heh heh, if "Coatings made me lazy" means you spent less time Detailing while still having a nicely kept vehicle, I`d think that`d be a feature!
PA DETAILER
DETAILED TODAY?
Thanks for this post ....
I’ve been making plans to coat my truck, this is very informative.
You got a truck?
Accumulator
Well-known member
Keep in mind that a certain level of close-vision is called for too, along with the right inspection/working lighting.
Even before the latest rounds of eye surgery, I found it incredibly hard to see what was going on when applying GlossCoat.
Yeah, "Sorry about your luck old guy...next!" comes to mind, but I`m just saying it`s not entirely about the user being careless/etc. I wouldn`t bet a nickel that I could do a whole vehicle without missing something that I`d see later under other conditions..when it`d be too late.
I guess I just can`t believe that I`m the only person here for whom this is a genuine challenge..it`s not like my vision is "daily life-compromised" or anything, it`s just not good (enough) for this. But then I`ll spend literally hours sorting out holograms that "nobody else sees" too
Street5927
New member
I`m also sorry that this has happened to you. Coatings are a learning curve and I learned alot of tricks and techniques when I went for my ceramic coating training/certification. The important thing to remember with coatings is that they don`t go on like normal waxes/sealants. Make sure the surface is 100% polishing residue free. I use the Jade Surface Prep. It is better than a 50/50 IPA alcohol because, although the IPA will do the job, it dries relatively quickly. The Jade Surface Prep doesn`t dry up quite as quick, thus ensuring that all residue is removed from the surface of the vehicle for ultimate bonding. The ceramic coatings take a little more time and attention. I work 1`x1` sections. You don`t want to wait so long until it begins to rainbow, but just prior that, you should remove it. It should be slightly tacky to the touch with a rubber glove. In working in small sections like that, to ensure complete coverage, there will be overlapping and some high spots. If you catch it during application, you can re-apply to the suede applicator and go back over it to level it off. If you don`t see it until the next day or so, then you will have to level it with a polish. I am certified in the Jade Product Line and absolutely love it and my clients love it as well. Overall, it is not to difficult to work with, presents excellent visual qualities and great longevity. To level off a high spot that wasn`t noticed for a day or two, I use Detail King Silica Polish and it knocks them right down. Then a re-application of the ceramic coating in that area and it`s "ready to go".
The important thing is don`t rush it, and don`t reboot (reload) until the original coating has had time to cure. Jade recommends every 3 months to reboot (reload), however, I have clients that come back for normal washes on vehicle`s that I have ceramic coated 3-4 years ago and never performed a reboot and the coating is holding up great! I also wash ceramic coated vehicles with a ceramic coating specific shampoo, so that is also something to be cognizant of.
Overall, it may seem like a disaster, but in the grand scheme of things, it`s nothing that can`t be fixed. I wish you luck on fixing it and if you have any questions, please feel free to PM me for assistance!
The important thing is don`t rush it, and don`t reboot (reload) until the original coating has had time to cure. Jade recommends every 3 months to reboot (reload), however, I have clients that come back for normal washes on vehicle`s that I have ceramic coated 3-4 years ago and never performed a reboot and the coating is holding up great! I also wash ceramic coated vehicles with a ceramic coating specific shampoo, so that is also something to be cognizant of.
Overall, it may seem like a disaster, but in the grand scheme of things, it`s nothing that can`t be fixed. I wish you luck on fixing it and if you have any questions, please feel free to PM me for assistance!
Keep in mind that a certain level of close-vision is called for too, along with the right inspection/working lighting.
Even before the latest rounds of eye surgery, I found it incredibly hard to see what was going on when applying GlossCoat.
Yeah, "Sorry about your luck old guy...next!" comes to mind, but I`m just saying it`s not entirely about the user being careless/etc. I wouldn`t bet a nickel that I could do a whole vehicle without missing something that I`d see later under other conditions..when it`d be too late.
I guess I just can`t believe that I`m the only person here for whom this is a genuine challenge..it`s not like my vision is "daily life-compromised" or anything, it`s just not good (enough) for this. But then I`ll spend literally hours sorting out holograms that "nobody else sees" too
If you are thorough and have good technique in applying evenly and making sure when you wipe off, you are not missing spots, even if you can`t see exactly what the coating is doing, you`ll still be able to wipe it all off. High spots are just areas that the user missed when wiping off. I`ve coated in poor lighting for various reasons, but that only made me be more thorough with my wiping off of the coating so I wiped more than what would be usual just because I knew I couldn`t see everything in those situations.
In some colors it`s harder to see the coating clearly, but I haven`t come across any color that you simply cannot see the coating at all, or at least looking at it at an angle and seeing the flashing of it, etc. I think it still comes down to the user. The whole reason the manufacturers of coatings keep coming out with easier to apply and remove coatings is because it comes down to the user. Just like not everyone can be a mechanic, or a doctor, or whatever other profession, not everyone has the attention to detail to be a good or high level detailer. I`ve tried to train people in polishing and no matter what they just can`t get it down. The same goes for anything else, like washing a car properly or applying a coating.
Accumulator
Well-known member
RZJZA80- I`m sure not arguing against Coatings categorically, (recommended one to bcgreen), just saying that different people are different with regard to what`s feasible for them. Guess I`m posting about that so others don`t think "gee, it must be me 
"
Note that I`m not lacking in confidence and I consider Detailing to be a pretty easy skillset to master if gone about right.
Remember that I`ve used OptiCoat and GlossCoat. While I figure that all coatings are not the same, I am speaking from first-hand experience.
Coating the previous Crown Vic`s wheels was a lot harder than using a conventional LSP..no comparison. I figured it was a learning curve situation. But..
On the Tahoe`s "Machined Finish" wheels it was *incredibly* difficult for me to do it right. Just to avoid having to do an easy-peasy conventional job a few times! That was despite great lighting/etc. In hindsight it was a complete waste of resources. Which is why my new 22ple Coating is just sitting on the shelf, probably going bad.
There`s no way I`d risk having an "oops!" on anything that might matter more to me than those wheels, let alone just to save myself a few LSPings. For me, there just wasn`t any big upside to the Coatings to justify it.
With everything else related to Detailing being so dead-nuts simple (if time-consuming) for me, *I* have no reason to go with a Coating. Again, I`m belaboring the point because I don`t want somebody who`s feeling the same way to second-guess himself or think there`s something wrong with him. Coatings are undoubtedly perfect for some people, but not for everybody and it`s not just about being meticulous and taking one`s time.
" Note that I`m not lacking in confidence and I consider Detailing to be a pretty easy skillset to master if gone about right.
Remember that I`ve used OptiCoat and GlossCoat. While I figure that all coatings are not the same, I am speaking from first-hand experience.
Coating the previous Crown Vic`s wheels was a lot harder than using a conventional LSP..no comparison. I figured it was a learning curve situation. But..
On the Tahoe`s "Machined Finish" wheels it was *incredibly* difficult for me to do it right. Just to avoid having to do an easy-peasy conventional job a few times! That was despite great lighting/etc. In hindsight it was a complete waste of resources. Which is why my new 22ple Coating is just sitting on the shelf, probably going bad.
There`s no way I`d risk having an "oops!" on anything that might matter more to me than those wheels, let alone just to save myself a few LSPings. For me, there just wasn`t any big upside to the Coatings to justify it.
With everything else related to Detailing being so dead-nuts simple (if time-consuming) for me, *I* have no reason to go with a Coating. Again, I`m belaboring the point because I don`t want somebody who`s feeling the same way to second-guess himself or think there`s something wrong with him. Coatings are undoubtedly perfect for some people, but not for everybody and it`s not just about being meticulous and taking one`s time.