Disaster Volvo Project(56k beware!)

B

bbr4d3r

New member
My sister is going to be selling this thing and I need practice so she told me i should detail it so that it doesnt look as bad as it does...I was wondering what steps/products you guys would use to do this car if it was one that you had to detail...if any of you have time id appreciate it, thanks :beer


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Sadly i have nothing currently ive been having the hardest time trying to decide what i might want because there are just so many different products out there....and as for the pc i cant afford one right now:-( soon tho! i have a 10inch orbital buffer but i know thats not very great but it gets me along for now...
 
Here is your wishlist:

SSR3
SSR2.5
SSR2
SSR1
PwC
Nattys, S100, whatever isnt an arm and a leg
Clay
Car shampoo


PC
light cut pad
polishing pad x2
finsihing pad

for process on that volvo i think you would realistically be looking at something like this.

SSR3 via light cut pad
SSR1 if hazing still appears then SSR2 via polishing pad
SSR1
PwC
Wax

HTH

GREG
 
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thanks, just makin sure you meant this SSR1 if hazing still appears then SSR2 via polishing pad?? and how much damage could i do to a car with SSR3 being how ive never used it before?
 
You should tell your sister that if she buys you all the gear that you need, including the PC and pads ;) then you will do the car for her.
That looks like it is going to take QUITE some time for it to come out lookin purdy.
I mean really, look at the car, (I dare not inquire about the interior), that whole list of products you would need including the PC would run, about $400, maybe even less.
She would make up the cost just in the price that she could sell the car for detailed instead of thrashed. In my opinion there is no way to get this car back to an acceptable level by hand, you would need a PC.
So have her get you the stuff, do the car, she sells it for more, everybody is happy.
 
bbr4d3r said:
thanks, just makin sure you meant this SSR1 if hazing still appears then SSR2 via polishing pad?? and how much damage could i do to a car with SSR3 being how ive never used it before?
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I meant do SSR 2.5 with LC and if that doesnt do it then go to SSR3 with LC. YOu will have hazing most likely after that so try SSR1 with a polishing pad. If SSR 1 doesnt get rid of your hazing then take SSR2 with a polishing pad. You can follow that up with SSR 1 with polishing pad if needed.

Greg
 
bbr4d3r said:
thanks, just makin sure you meant this SSR1 if hazing still appears then SSR2 via polishing pad?? and how much damage could i do to a car with SSR3 being how ive never used it before?
Click to expand...

I highly doubt that you'll "damage" it any further than it already looks if you use accepted detailing practices, no matter which product you decide to use. That's going to take quite a bit of time and dedictaion, and I can't imagine doing it by hand. How short of a time limit are you under? If it's a short one, you might want to look into having a professional detailer get at it with a rotary or something.

Good luck no matter which course of action you decide on.
 
No time constraints, she has been wanting to sell it for over a year now so its no biggy....As for the interior its actually in good condition thanks goodness hehe im going to ask her about the money for the pc tho, Im already going to need to buy products for getting my little detailing business underway...For not damaging paint on a car using the SSR3 im assuming i should read the tutorials on how to us a PC in the forum?? right, thanks for all the replys guys
 
Convinced my sister to buy me the porter cable :-) I guess this car will be a great practice car for my first PC experience...now to find a good deal on one :-P


p.s.

is it very difficult to apply a paste wax with a PC as compared to a liquid wax...i keep trying to decide which wax i want and everyone here seems to be in love with s100, trade secret, or nattys and i just dont want to run into a big problem of not being able to wax effiecntly...???
 
bbr4d3r said:
is it very difficult to apply a paste wax with a PC as compared to a liquid wax...i keep trying to decide which wax i want and everyone here seems to be in love with s100, trade secret, or nattys and i just dont want to run into a big problem of not being able to wax effiecntly...???
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Waxing won't be a problem for you once you have the polishing part complete. You can ( and IMHO, should) do this part by hand. I am a Poorboy's fan (EX and EX-P). They both go on and come off with relative ease.

Your big challenge is removing the oxidation and pollutants and restoring the shine. This will require a PC and polish. I would use SSR3 followed by SSR1.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
You think that the polish and wax procedure should be done by hand?? Any particular reason? Thanks for your input btw :-)
 
bbr4d3r said:
You think that the polish and wax procedure should be done by hand?? Any particular reason? Thanks for your input btw :-)
Click to expand...

I think he was referring to applying the Natty's by hand, not doing the polishing by hand. :)
 
bbr4d3r said:
My sister is going to be selling this thing and I need practice so she told me i should detail it so that it doesnt look as bad as it does...I was wondering what steps/products you guys would use to do this car if it was one that you had to detail...if any of you have time id appreciate it, thanks
Click to expand...

Products:

Dynamite or TNT
If bugetary constraints are an issue, homebrew explosive.

Steps:

Place in and under vehicle.
Detonate.
Collect insurance.
Claim innocence. :angel

:lol :crazy

Seriously though...

What has been said here already is just what I would do. Congrats on getting her to buy you the PC. That and the practice is a fair price for the detail, IMHO. Besides, you never know what you might get out of the deal after she sells the car for way more than she thought she'd get for it. :)

I recently picked up my PC, and got the Edge 2000 quick-disconnect pad kit, and am very happy with it. I like the ease of swapping pads, no velcro to ever wear out (although it really shouldn't anyway), and auto-centering (not a big issue on a random orbital either, but what the heck) :)

As has been said, you'll probably need to go to SSR3 on this one. You might try SSR2.5 with a fairly agressive pad first (for me, it would be the Edge yellow medium cutting pad), and see how it does. You never know. If you need SSR3 though, plan to follow it up almost for sure with some 2.5 or 2, then step down to 1. Then, sealant of your choice if you wish via PC and finishing pad, or by hand, and then the wax of your choice by hand.

You will be amazed at what the PC and the right products can do for you. In the past, I had used some of the better consumer-grade products available locally (Meg's 3-step, etc), via cheap bonnet-type orbitals, or by hand, and thought they did a really good job. Now that I've used the PC, and some PB's and other products pointed out to me from this forum, I've really been astounded at what I'm capable of.
 
Sounds like the general consensus is to

SSR3 via light cut pad
SSR2.5 lc if hazing still appears then SSR2 via polishing pad
SSR1
PwC
Wax (i am thinking about going with S100 it sounds easiest to me + gives good reflections) + wax by hand

I am not quite sure on the benefits of actualy using a sealent

p.s. is SSR2.5 really necessary or can i just skip it and just use SSR2??
 
The benefit of a sealant is protection for the paint. The sealant is a polymer that molecularly bonds to the paint to protect it. It needs ~24 hours to cure before applying a wax over it. Due to the fact that it's being prepped for sale, and not going to be kept by you, you could reasonably skip this step. However, since you're doing everything else anyway, and you'll want to have a sealant on hand for your own car, you might as well do it, as it will also help add some longevity to the finish.

There's also no need to use PwC after SSR1 if you're going to seal and wax anyway. PwC is a one-step type polish/wax product. After SSR1, go to sealant, then wax. If you wanted to sacrifice some durability and depth of shine in favor of lower cost of product purchase, then just go SSR1 then PwC and leave it at that.

Whether you'll need SSR 2 or 2.5 after SSR3 really depends on how bad the haze is. If you're wanting to save a little dough by only buying one of them, buy the 2.5. That will be sure to take care of the SSR3 haze, and it is easily followed up by SSR1. If you knew for a fact that SSR2 was going to be enough to take care of the SSR3 haze, then you could just go 3 - 2 - seal - wax, and skip the SSR1. Unfortunately, you don't know that in advance, so if you have nothing on hand and are looking to purchase the minimum possible, I'd go with 3, 2.5, and 1.
 
Would it be better to get the polish with out wax from poorboys then top it with S100??? As for the sealent i dont know if im going to get that for now cause i dont really have the money to spend...someday= )
 
If you're going to skip the sealant, you can go straight from SSR1 to the wax of your choice (S100 it seems) :)
 
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