Did I burn my paint? Pics..

i tried to cause major damage with a 6.5 inch yellow pad on a few test panels with no luck. i wouldnt say it's impossible but very unlikely. an orange spot pad removed 2k sand scuff off my wifes trailblazer, it generates that much heat.
 
SpoiledMan said:
Agreed. It tends to look like this when fresh on non metal panels.
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It's definitely not bird crap etching.



1) I would have noticed it before because I am anal about the appearance of my car.



2) I've never had bird poop anywhere on my car, the car is in a garage 90 percent of the time. And I always check it after it has been outside.
 
good job knox, you put that theory to bed, i guess we could have just asked you...hey has a bird crapped on your car in those two spots? or hey was it there before you started polishing?
 
VaSuperShine said:
good job knox, you put that theory to bed, i guess we could have just asked you...hey has a bird crapped on your car in those two spots? or hey was it there before you started polishing?
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lol, yeah. But the discussion is getting pretty good, and I think a lot of people are learning from this. (myself, obviously included)



We really need to focus on how to avoid this, 6 1/2 inch pads?

I'm still just amazed that I burned it and still didn't get the super light scratches out.
 
I've been told by a friend at DW in the UK that 4 inch pads don't produce as much heat
 
I would definitely say you heated up the paint and the paint bubbled. I've seen and done this on painted bumpers when I was first learning, but that was with the rotary. The UDM can heat up paint hot enough to do this even with 6.5" pads. The PC can do this with smaller pads more easily.



The way to avoid it is when you buff, always feel the paint. Check it often when you first start buffing on it so you can get an idea what the paint is doing and how long it takes to warm up. Once you understand this, you will know when to back off.



Nothing to be amazed about. The paint on plastic will ripple/bubble faster than the paint on your metal body panels. You don't need heat to remove scratches, and heat on painted plastics is really a no no.



Richard
 
OctaneGuy said:
You don't need heat to remove scratches, and heat on painted plastics is really a no no.



Richard
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I remember reading a lot of posts about how the PC can't compare to the rotary because it doesn't generate enough heat. Is that incorrect?



I took that to mean that heat was needed to remove scratches.

I'm still fairly new at this, so bear with me if that was a stupid question.
 
It's true to an extent. It depends on your pad choice, chemical combination, and surface your are buffing on. With a PC and W8006 pad and M80 Speed Glaze, you will have a hard time heating up the surface-because it mostly jiggles and vibrates with 15 to 20 pounds of pressure.



Take a Lake Country yellow pad and an abrasive chemical like Prima Cut---on a PC that's spinning freely--not bearing down on it so hard it doesn't spin--and you will find you can actually heat up the surface, and on a surface that isn't tolerant to much heat, you will have the type of problem described here.



Richard





Kn0x said:
I remember reading a lot of posts about how the PC can't compare to the rotary because it doesn't generate enough heat. Is that incorrect?



I took that to mean that heat was needed to remove scratches.

I'm still fairly new at this, so bear with me if that was a stupid question.
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Kn0x said:
I remember reading a lot of posts about how the PC can't compare to the rotary because it doesn't generate enough heat. Is that incorrect?



I took that to mean that heat was needed to remove scratches.

I'm still fairly new at this, so bear with me if that was a stupid question.
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Heat is an unwanted by product of the increase of friction on the surface. Heat is a produce of the use of energy. Since the rotary bears down on the paint more at greater speeds, it heats the surface more.



When people say you need the heat to break down the abbrasives, what they mean is that you need the increased mechanical action (that cause's heat) to break down the product.



Also paint burns at a relatively low tempature, so that while increase the tempature of the paints surface may soften the paint slightly and make correction that much easier, it is really a negligable difference.
 
David Fermani said:
It does look like that. Why the heck did you let it get that hot? Especially on a spoiler of a 2007?
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Before I realized it, it happened.



I wasn't working it very long either. I started with a quick pass at 4 to spread the polish and then was moving relatively quickly at about 1-2 inches per second and made 2 overlapping passes. That damage happened in less than a minute. The polish wasn't even close to being broken down. And the last thing on my mind was burning the paint given the pad and how quick my passes were.



It was my first time ever using 4 inch pads, and I had no idea they would product such a different amount of heat.
 
By any chance, were you polishing outside in the sun? Even though you might not have worked it very long, if it was outside, chances are that the panel was hotter than it should have been to begin with.
 
Hey knox, just want to give a little info from a fellow suby owner. as some have already said, the paint on subaru's is very soft. i really see no need to be working at speed 6. especially with a 4 inch. bump it down to 5. i spread at 3 and work at 5. gets the job done on my black subaru just fine. also, how much pressure were you using? really don't need much pressure at all. let the weight of the machine and the polish do the work. well...just be careful. hate to see a jacked up suby ;)

good luck with the new spolier!
 
BlackElantraGT said:
By any chance, were you polishing outside in the sun? Even though you might not have worked it very long, if it was outside, chances are that the panel was hotter than it should have been to begin with.
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No, I was in a garage.
 
SubyDude said:
Hey knox, just want to give a little info from a fellow suby owner. as some have already said, the paint on subaru's is very soft. i really see no need to be working at speed 6. especially with a 4 inch. bump it down to 5. i spread at 3 and work at 5. gets the job done on my black subaru just fine. also, how much pressure were you using? really don't need much pressure at all. let the weight of the machine and the polish do the work. well...just be careful. hate to see a jacked up suby ;)

good luck with the new spolier!
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What pads, combos do you typically use on your car?
 
Kn0x said:
What pads, combos do you typically use on your car?
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I picked up my car two months ago and it had a brutal collection of swirls and marring. I just took it to a fellow member (Picus) last week to have him take a look at whats involved to correct it... 8 hours worth of work on a NEW car. Talk about in bad shape.



Between this thread and everything else I've read about Subaru paint I'm totly rethinking having it done as it would have to be done fairly often to keep it free of even moderate defects. Instead I'm thinking of having the entire car resprayed in a few years despite it affecting any potential resale value.



Kudos to you if you take the effort to keep your Subaru in good shape, for me it's proving more difficult than keeping a toddler clean (which if you have a toddler is saying something).



Any full car shots btw?
 
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