Did I burn my paint? Pics..

Plastic doesn't conduct heat very well in comparison to metal, so any heat generated by the polishing action, that might be dissipated through a steel panel, will...um...not dissipate as much, creating the potential for localized overheating.



We had a discussion on here once about whether this was the reason that spoilers and painted plastic mirrors seemed to fade or have CC failure sooner than the rest of the car, due to their not being able to as effectively conduct away the heat from the sun, or whether it was the plasticized paint that may/may not be used on these parts.
 
I do not believe he burnt the paint either unless he had the buffer on its edge. Its right in the middle of that spoiler.



I have a place that looks just that like on one of my fenders, I believe its bird poo marks.. Or its CC failure.



Its its a 2007, I would take it to the dealer and show it to them. They should warranty that and just put a new spoiler on it or paint that one.
 
You did in fact burn the paint. Take it from someone who has seen/done the exact same thing first hand. I had a new OEM bumper resprayed last september and about a month a a half ago my dad scratched my bumper. While buffing it with a 5.5 in. LC light cutting pad and optimum polish a piece of paint chipped off and I thought I would die. I inspected the area closely and there were many spots where I had buffed that looked exactly like that, as well as a wave from where the polyurethane had a wave in it from when the pad heated it up. I'm pretty sure the heat from the pad caused the paint to lose adhesision from the plastic spoiler and began to wrinkle off but not fully seperate. Pretty much live with it or have it resprayed. I personally couldn't take it and had to have mine resprayed.
 
I'm pretty sure I burned it, there was nothing in that spot before I did it. And when I touched it, it was pull my finger away hot.



I did take it to the dealer though, and they checked it out and im getting a free spoiler because this one is still under warranty.



So, yay for me. :clap:

And I learned a lesson in the process.





Still have a question though - so say I get light scratches in the new spoiler - how in the heck am I supposed to get them out without burning the paint again? I didn't even get the ones I was attempting to remove out and I still burned the paint. And they were very light - only could see them under certain lights and at extreme angles. :think:
 
Kn0x said:
I'm pretty sure I burned it, there was nothing in that spot before I did it. And when I touched it, it was pull my finger away hot.



I did take it to the dealer though, and I told them it was sitting out in the sun and all of a sudden I started noticing those spots appear over the course of a few days. Well, they bought it and im getting a free spoiler because this one is still under warranty.



So, yay for me. :clap:

And I learned a lesson in the process.





Still have a question though - so say I get light scratches in the new spoiler - how in the heck am I supposed to get them out without burning the paint again? I didn't even get the ones I was attempting to remove out and I still burned the paint. And they were very light - only could see them under certain lights and at extreme angles. :think:
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It may just be me, but I wouldn't admit something like that online. Just so you know, you committed fraud. I'm sure you were just JOKING or something... right? :secret



If the scratches are so light, use some Scratch-X by hand and carefully.
 
Well you should get it looked at by the dealership, maybe it's covered under warranty. I know on my dad's truck, the paint bubbled up like mention above because of rust, and the dealership covered it under warranty no problem. Give it a shot, see what they say.
 
hockeyplaya13 said:
Well you should get it looked at by the dealership, maybe it's covered under warranty. I know on my dad's truck, the paint bubbled up like mention above because of rust, and the dealership covered it under warranty no problem. Give it a shot, see what they say.
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Yeah, I did - read my last post. They are replacing it.
 
That's 100% burned - the paint on plastic likes to come up like that when it gets too hot. It burns differently on metal. Either way, it's burned.
 
For plastic and that what would be a good speed to go about polishing something like this and not burn the paint? Say with a PC and 4 inch LC white light polish pad, 3-4? Less speed and more time/passes would be better in this case?



I imagine it would be better to use a light cut polish like OP as well?



At least you are getting it repainted for free under warranty. I can certainly say I have learned something though from the thread, if that is any consolation :think:
 
99blackSE said:
For plastic and that what would be a good speed to go about polishing something like this and not burn the paint? Say with a PC and 4 inch LC white light polish pad, 3-4? Less speed and more time/passes would be better in this case?



I imagine it would be better to use a light cut polish like OP as well?



At least you are getting it repainted for free under warranty. I can certainly say I have learned something though from the thread, if that is any consolation :think:
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I'm wondering the same thing now. I'm new to the PC as well and would like to know how to approach things like plastic bumpers and such.
 
Use a bigger pad next time. Increase the surface area of the attacking machine to distribute the friction heat. Go over the area more times, and don't hold the machine over a spot. Slow but steady arm speeds will bring you the wanted results.
 
It's not. I've seen this more than once, the plastic just gets too hot and the paint starts to "bunch" up; that's why it feels raised when you feel it. A bird crap etching might feel rough, I bet this feels raised.



Use a 6" pad and you'll decrease the odds of it happening a great deal. Keep the PC moving, however slowly. This same thing can happen on bumpers and moldings (like door guards).
 
ConglomrationAL said:
If you're using a PC there's no way you burned through the paint, even with a 4".

I second Logan, it looks like rust underneath the paint or maybe poor prep. from the factory.



Anyone else?
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Rust? On a plastic spoiler?



That looks like the clear reacted to heat.
 
conglomration- he didn't burn through the clear, he heated the paint and plastic up so much it damn near boiled, that looks like no bird bomb etching im used to seeing.
 
So what should we do to prevent this? I always use the PC on my Liberty which has plastic bumpers but Im usually just putting on Cleaner, polish and wax. Ive never tried removing swirls and such from them..
 
Is it possible to burn it with a 6 1/2 inch pad? Or is that pretty much exclusive to the smaller pads since they generate a lot more heat.



I've worked the 6 1/2 inch pads hard on plastic spots on several cars moving a half inch a second and making several overlapping passes without this kind of heat. I thought I would be safe with the green lake country 4" CCS pad on my spoiler since it is just a step above white and I really wasn't moving that slow either. I was moving a good deal faster than I normally do.
 
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