Defect city STI with only ~85 microns = hard work

WX51 TXR

WX51 TXR

New member
Been ages since I posted on here, just way too busy lately. However, nice to be back, and good to see such high standards on many of the posts as always. A trip north for Clark and I yesterday, to do an 02 plate Impreza STI. The car was only recently purchased, and the owner had subsequently noticed a few scratches and scuffs he wanted sorting out. A full detail was agreed, with winter protection also high on the agenda. As if often the case, “a few scratches and scuffsâ€� turned out to be a complete nightmare when we flicked the halogens on! Here’s the process and pics…



Wash



Foamed with mix of CG Maxi Suds II and PW Slick & Suds via the Gilmour

Arches blasted with the Karcher and treated with Megs Safe Degreaser cut 4:1

Alloys treated with Megs Wheel Brightener cut 4:1

Lower panels treated with Autobrite Tar & Glue Remover

Whole car washed by hand using two buckets/Megs Lambswool Mitts

Whole car dried with PW Waffle Weave Towels



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Clean



The fingertip test revealed no bonded surface contaminants, so no claying was done (the tar and glue remover did a good job!)



Polish



Bonnet – we didn’t need the paint gauge readings of 240 microns plus to tell us the bonnet had been resprayed at some point in the past, due to the massive amount of orange peel (see centre right of image below) and unpopped air bubbles on it. However, it turned out it was only done two weeks ago, and the body shop had given it back to the owner like this…



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Yikes! However, with plenty of paint to play with Clark set to with the rotary and CG Diamond Cut 1000/2000 using Megs Polishing Pads. Multiple attempts later, 95%+ correction was achieved, and the orange peel was thoroughly knocked back. However, this made the unpopped air bubbles and few remaining, deeper bodyshop inflicted swirls much more noticeable, so the owner is going to pay a return visit to the bodyshop to complain – he hadn’t realised just how poor the work was until he saw it under the halogens. The air bubbles are the main problem, as if they rise any further in the future (remember how hot Impreza bonnets get after a good run) they may burst and cause peeling.



While Clark tackled the bonnet, I tackled the roof, which comprised a mosaic of wash/brush marks and deeper random scratches. I went with Blackfire SRC Compound by PC using a 7.5â€� Lake Country Orange Light Cut Pad, followed up with Blackfire SRC Finishing Polish via PC using a 7.5â€�Lake Country Green Polishing Pad. This enabled around 95% correction, with some of the deeper random scratches remaining, but with an average of 84 microns left (86 to begin with) I wasn’t prepared to cut any harder. For the last roof section I swapped the Blackfire SRC Compound for CG Diamond Cut 2000, and found it performed almost equally as well, and buffed off a bit easier too. Here’s some before and afters…



Before…



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After…



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With the bonnet and the roof done, we then tag-teamed the rest of the car, with one of us leading with the compound, and one of us following up with the finishing Polish. We started out with me compounding, but after a couple of panels we found that neither Blackfire SRC Compound, CG Diamond Cut 2000 or CG Diamond Cut 1000 were shifting the defects (even after switching to a 7.5â€� Lake Country Yellow Cutting Pad), so we switched, with Clark then using the rotary to compound and me following up with the PC (using same pads as before). For the next few panels Clark struggled with the CG Diamond Cut 2000, as no matter what he did the polish would not spread properly – weirdest thing either of us has ever seen, it was like the pad had a hold of the polish and the paint just would not take it. Nothing had changed in the method since the bonnet, which perplexed us even more. A switch to Optimum Polish (using up old used stock!) solved the problem in one fell swoop, and soon we were motoring on. The reason for the issue with the CG polish remains a mystery! Here’s a few before and afters as we moved around the car…



Before…



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After…



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Before…



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After…



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Some panels were sitting below 85 microns, and only got Blackfire SRC Finishing Polish by PC – this did not remove all of the defects, but again, we weren’t prepared to cut any harder, as preserving the long-term integrity of the clear coat was in our minds. Here’s Clark tackling one of the doors…



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We finished up the polish stage with a coat of Jeffs Werkstatt Prime Acrylic by PC using a 7.5� Lake Country Black Glazing Pad – this removed any remaining traces of the slightly greasy residue left by the Blackfire SRC Finishing Polish, and left the surface ready for the application of final protective layer. Prime is definitely better applied using softer foam pads.



Protect



Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger, applied with the wipe on, wipe off method using PW Deluxe Mega Towels



Finishing Touches



All panel gaps dusted down with Megs Slide Lock Brushes

Alloys were protected with Poorboys Wheel Sealant

Tyres were dressed with Blackfire Long Lasting Tyre Gel

Windows inside and out were cleaned with Megs NXT Glass Cleaner
 
And here’s the afters…



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All in all, it was a 12 hour detail, and a 16 hour day for Clark, as he also had to drive to my place at the start and end of the day! Roll on next spring when such jobs can be done in much easier conditions over two days at the new unit. I have to say this was a tough car to do, and the level of correction per panel varied from 99% to just 50% (the rear bumper was a disaster even after Menzerna Power Gloss, due to being scratched through to the pigment layer in many places). I have seen a trend lately for bragging about short work times – this one took 12 hours between two of us, and if either of us had been on our own we would have been coming back the next day. Make of that what you will!
 
Just been sent some daytime pictures taken this morning by the owner. Here they are...



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Comments/questions/feedback welcomed and appreciated.



:)
 
Another outstanding thread! Top notch detail work and a thorough and informative step by step write-up of the work. :bow



I am not suprised by your paint gauge readings, just a visual inspection of Subaru paint makes it obvious the paint isn't very thick. It actually looks thin on most of the ones I have seen.
 
That is a fantastic job! Very careful attention to detail and I really like the approach of watching the paint thickness. I have a WRX, and the paint IS thin.



I am interested in the air bubbles in the new paint, as I have not seen that myself. In the last of the daylight pics, I can see very small whitish dots on the hood... was that the air bubbles?



Thanks for sharing!
 
Excellent work! I had no idea Subaru paint was that thin. It's a shame as I was considering one to replace my Envoy in a few years. Guess not. The detail looks fantastic, very clear looking paint.
 
amjf088 said:
That is a fantastic job! Very careful attention to detail and I really like the approach of watching the paint thickness. I have a WRX, and the paint IS thin.



I am interested in the air bubbles in the new paint, as I have not seen that myself. In the last of the daylight pics, I can see very small whitish dots on the hood... was that the air bubbles?



Thanks for sharing!
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No, those dots must be overnight dust that the owner didn't quick detail off before taking the pictures - the majority of the bubbles were larger and located on the other side of the hood, near the air scoop - I tried to get some pictures in the garage, but alas my camera skills failed me and they came out very poorly focused.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
Excellent work! I had no idea Subaru paint was that thin. It's a shame as I was considering one to replace my Envoy in a few years. Guess not. The detail looks fantastic, very clear looking paint.
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Most Subaru's I've worked on have had more paint, typically around the 110 micron mark, so I think this one was unusually thin, maybe due to having been compounded heavily in the past. In one place on the bootlid I measured 79 microns, which can only be a whisper away from the strike through point on a Subaru given the normal average paint thickness. :nervous2:
 
WX51 TXR said:
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this pic is my fav!!!!!

its almost unreal, dripping wet,in your face



What a transformation Beatiful work.....

Most repaints i come apon S@@K compair to a factory finish, job ends up taking longer as you described....



if i may ask did you price right!!!!!



note to owner remove thos awful looking mudflaps....
 
Scottwax said:
I am not suprised by your paint gauge readings, just a visual inspection of Subaru paint makes it obvious the paint isn't very thick. It actually looks thin on most of the ones I have seen.
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That because Subaru on their STi's purposefully does not lay the paint on very thick. They do it for weight savings. Same reason they dont come with floor mats, and the rear window is thinner then normal. Subaru only recommends a 800 watt (MAX) system to be installed, anything over that can crack the rear glass from the thumps of the system!!!!
 
WX51 TXR- Wow, great job, great write up, great pics :xyxthumbs



That sure *must've* been a challenge!



Re the repainted hood, I ran into zillions of opened bubbles/solvent "pops" on the repainted hood of my M3 the other day...gonna have it repainted anyhow but it was still a drag to have all those little flaws after I did so much work :( I probably made 'em more noticeable by rotarying away all the other problems, probably opened up any that weren't already that way too :o
 
CkretAjint said:
That because Subaru on their STi's purposefully does not lay the paint on very thick. They do it for weight savings.
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Guess I won't be buying an STi then. Thinner paint is a pretty idiotic way to save weight if you ask me.



Seriously, that'd be a deal killer for me on any car.
 
I'm torn on Subaru's - I love what they are capable off, and how they sound, and the track session I had in a 400+ bhp STI in July was simply awesome, but, compared to German built cars, they feel very fragile, and the paint is poor on many. Think I'll going for an Audi next time I buy. :)
 
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