Coming up with an ideal combo for my Black car

F

FastGT94

New member
Greetings!:wavey



The paint on my Mustang is in pretty decent shape. It has some light to medium swirls, a few light scratches (Can't feel them but can see them) and some stone chips. After gathering info from various searches, here is something close to what I'm looking at purchasing for my PC.



1-Poorboy's SSR 2.5 & SSR 2(heard it is easier to use than DACP) only to get the medium / bad swirls out

2-Meguiars Speed Glaze #80 to follow up the SSR 2 or 2.5

2-ClearKote Vanilla Moose

3-ClearKote Red Machine Glaze

4-Poorboy's EX w/ Carnuba (supposed to be excellent on black)

4-Pinnacle Souveran Carnuba a day later



Propel Yellow = 1

Propel Green = 2

Propel Blue = 3

Propel Gray = 4



I may experiment with NXT or another carnuba over the EX to get the right balance of deep color and reflection.



I'm not sure if the NXT would be before the EX or after. Also not sure of the difference between a sealant and a wax, if someone would elaborate I'd appreciate it.



Is SSR 2.5 ok to use by hand to get rid of wet sanding marks (after chip repair)?



The ideal finish I'm looking for is a nice deep black but yet with a good amount of reflection as well.



Finally, I'm not sure if I'm pairing up the right pads with the products, if I need correction, please feel free.



Thanks!:woot:
 
The way I understand it, a sealant is synthetic (polymer or acrylic based) and more durable, while a carnauba wax is natural, and not very durable.



Yes SSR2.5 works well by hand. I've used it twice by hand to remove scratches, and it worked very well both times.



Your process and pad selection looks very good to me. Have fun detailing!
 
I have just ordered some Clearkote RMG and Yellow Cream wax, reading up on the products it seems both are true glazes.



Im going to use the VM first and then either the machine glaze and or the yellow cream and see how they look.
 
It will probably be an over kill combo knowing me but when the bits turn up im going for



AIO

VM

RMG and or Yellow Cream wax

Wolfgang or EX

CMW

and finally Souveran



Will let you know how it goes guys.
 
I'd use RMG after VM as well. If used the other way round I imagine the mild cleaners/abrasives in the VM would remove some if not all of the RMG.



Ben
 
Edited!



Should the RMG and VM be used with the green polishing pad or the blue light polish pad? (Propel)



Does applying carnuba over a sealant (Poorboy's EX) have any real effects?
 
FastGT94 said:
.....Should the RMG and VM be used with the green polishing pad or the blue light polish pad? (Propel)



Does applying carnuba over a sealant (Poorboy's EX) have any real effects?
Click to expand...

I'd use the green with VM and the blue with RMG. You could also use the blue with VM, but the green will give the light abrasives in VM a little more bite.



As for topping EX, that depends on what wax you use and what looks better to *your* eyes. After you get a couple of coats of EX on there you can try topping a panel and see how it looks. A Souveran topper would sure look pretty nice on black!
 
i just did my first detail on a black chevy 01 with poorboys..and propel pads

1- yellow pad pb 2.5

2- green pad pb 2.5

now if your lucky, you wont have to use the ssr1 but if you still have alittle hazing, try ssr1 with grey finish pad.

EX has both poly sealant and carnauba in it so you get the best of both in one step, IMO all those products at once are a waste of time and money 85 % of your final appearance is going to come from the ssr 2.5 and 1.0 ( if needed ) mabey the # 80 will fill any left over inpurfections after the 2.5 and 1.0 ( because the ssr line contains no hiding abilitys ) , mabey for depth and color ( on black ) after the EX you could use # 26 or s100 or just try another coat of ex after a day or two.. if swirls are not comming out with propel yellow you'll have to step up to the orange... any problems call excel ( propel ) and steve ( poorboys )
 
:eek: opps , i meant ssr 2.0 instead of ssr1 since thats what you have , same thing basically.. if your intent on using nxt you would put that on after ssr's than you apply ex. as your lsp since nxt has cleaners in it it would cancel out # 80 and take alot of # 80 off..
 
So where does the Vanilla Moose and Red Machine Glaze stand in terms of strength with the Meguiars #80?



Does Vanilla Moose replace SSR 1?



What about AIO vs the three above?
 
bigsled said:
i just did my first detail on a black chevy 01 with poorboys..and propel pads

1- yellow pad pb 2.5

2- green pad pb 2.5

now if your lucky, you wont have to use the ssr1 but if you still have alittle hazing, try ssr1 with grey finish pad.

EX has both poly sealant and carnauba in it so you get the best of both in one step, IMO all those products at once are a waste of time and money 85 % of your final appearance is going to come from the ssr 2.5 and 1.0 ( if needed ) mabey the # 80 will fill any left over inpurfections after the 2.5 and 1.0 ( because the ssr line contains no hiding abilitys ) , mabey for depth and color ( on black ) after the EX you could use # 26 or s100 or just try another coat of ex after a day or two.. if swirls are not comming out with propel yellow you'll have to step up to the orange... any problems call excel ( propel ) and steve ( poorboys )
Click to expand...



I actually don't have any of the products yet, that's why I'm asking. And the only reason I have so many listed is that I'm starting from scratch. Once I get to the Maintenance stage I plan to only use:



Vanilla Moose

ClearKote RMG

Poorboys EX

Souveran



(This of course depends on what I determine I should use from the above combo)



In the meantime I wanted to get to that stage which is why I need the SSR 2.5 and 2.0 (or1.0) and Meguiars #80



Would you follow 2.5 with the 2 or the 1? I'd like to only get one or the other (2 vs 1).



Thanks!
 
after 2.5 you could go to 1.0 to get rid of any hazing from 2.5 and skip 2.0 altogether but from my recent experience, i was able to skip 1.0 and/or 2.0 altogether and just go to ex after 2.5, because i had no hazing, steve from poorboys told me to drop down in pads instead and keep using 2.5 the way i described earlier.. after 2.5 with the green propel i tried 1.0 with the propel blue ( polishing ) and it actually marred so i went back to the 2.5 and the green and it came out nice, i just thought i could get alittle more out of using 1.0 as well but it wasent needed..
 
i was actually going to try # 80 but i wanted to see the true effect of what i did ( did i get all the scratches out ) not hide them with # 80 .. also the ex with carnauba and the vm is going to hide left over scratches if you dont get them all out, which most first timers wont, i didnt
 
So the #80 hides scratches? What could I use instead that won't? I'd rather get rid of them instead of hide them even if it takes longer.



Also, is the method you described to use the 2.5 yellow and follow with 2.5 green?
 
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