Claying

Bingo. I was told today by a Va detailer that him and I do the same level of work and have the same type of clients, all coming from a person who doesn't even clay. I'm not going to mention names though.



Dan, btw..50 for the front windows. Sorry for the delay.
 
Got_Leather said:
It was directed towards brad, I clay lol

Oh I know, lol, I was just saying that charging, say, $20 more for claying just looks bad, and gets into the nickel and diming type of services.
 
WAS said:
Oh I know, lol, I was just saying that charging, say, $20 more for claying just looks bad, and gets into the nickel and diming type of services.



Well, I am not in business to subsidize my customers. To each is own.
 
I cannot remember the last time i did a complete detail and did not clay bar it before i polished it. It should be included in the detail price! The only time i charge a little extra is for paint overspray or an abundance of rust dust. If you dont clay it, its not a full detail.

:)~
 
Claying the car takes extra time, correct? Why would you do an extra step and not charge for it? I do not know about you, but my time is valuable. If a car needs to be clayed, it will be communicated to the customer, and they will have the option to pay extra for it that step. Subsidizing the customer, in the form of giving away your time, is not smart business. Actually it is pretty simple economics.
 
ADetailedFinish said:
I'll throw my $.02 out there. I do clay cars, but not every car. I agree that every six months every car (that a customer cars about) should be clayed. But it's the customers that are paying for it. I have a package where I do an one-step sealant that I do not clay the car with. But when I break out the polish to do a 2-step or even paint correcting than that's when the clay comes out. I try to upsell claying to my customers and show them the benefits in it, but not all of them are out there looking for an autopian detail. Not saying anyone's wrong here, just giving my opinion



I totally agree with this post. I clay every vehicle that gets correction or polish. The only vehicles that dont are the ones who choose to go with my base package which is just simply a wash and wax(usually a sealant). I do recommend it to all the customers that I get buy upgrading there package. I only offer that 1 particular package for the customers who are only concerned about protection of vehicle and not necessarily the looks of the final result and as well as the customers who are on budget which is completely acceptable with the economy.



And may I add that Claying is included in my cost but did not have a whole lot of influence on the cost. as it is very necessary but usually takes 1 to 1.5 hrs depending on size and the contaminates.



Also wanted to add on the package that I dont clay I apply the sealant by hand so my foam pads for my DA is not cut up or ruined.
 
If you're polishing, or waxing, you gotta clay every time. You can use a more aggressive clay if you're polishing, but it's gotta be done every time in my opinion.
 
Do all of you that clay also do a decontamination wash? Do you check the paint surface with a magnifying glass to be sure all of the contaminants are removed?



If not then you are only claying for the feel of the paint as claying does not remove whole contaminants but only the tops.



Something to think about...
 
Got_Leather said:
ANYTIME you seal, you need to CLAY. Why seal in the contamination? Then again, there is the cheap and quick way, and the right way.



-AND-



JohnKleven said:
If you're polishing, or waxing, you gotta clay every time.





OK, guess this is more of my Autopian Heresy, and regulars here know that I do clay a *LOT*, spot-claying at every wash, frequently claying with Sonus green, etc. etc. That said....



True Confession time- I sometimes do a quickie LSP refresher without claying. Yep, I just wash and throw on another coat.



Never had a problem, never wound up dissatisfied (well, I *have* stopped to spot-clay something that caught my attention). The vehicle didn't seem to need an overall claying so I didn't do it. Not really any different than a "simple rewax" like I've been doing since long before clay came out in the early '90s (and hey, I did jump on that bandwagon early).



Nah, I'm not trying to :argue against claying...just saying that *IMO* it's not something that *has* to be done every time you apply LSP. People got by fine without clay for a long, long time and there's no reason to do *anything* that doesn't need doing.



Not sure how that would apply to a PRO (I recognize that this *is* in the Pro Forum ;) )...but if I were paying a pro to wash/wax any of my vehicles *right now*, today....I wouldn't want to spend one penny of my money or one minute of his time doing any claying; it's just not needed.




MichaelM said:
Do all of you that clay also do a decontamination wash?



When it's called for. I'm a big fan of both ValuGard's "A" and FK1119, but I only use 'em when I have a good reason to (which includes new car prep).



Do you check the paint surface with a magnifying glass to be sure all of the contaminants are removed?



Again, when needed. I'm a *BIG* fan of this magnifier: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43456,43351,51092&p=51092 . I find the higher-power ones less useful. I have a set of lower magnification goggles, and those are handy too.

If not then you are only claying for the feel of the paint as claying does not remove whole contaminants but only the tops.



Yeah, I had a lot more rust-bloom recurrance when I merely clayed instead of doing the acidic decontamination. Clay works fine for me now though, as he ferrous contamination never seems to fully peneterate my LSP and bond to the paint/underlying surface.
 
Wash and wax is one thing, but wash/claying/polishing/sealing is completely another. I have a few exotics I see every few weeks and I just do ONR washes with Optimum Car Wax or Blackfire Spray Gloss. If say the front bumper needed a light clay, I would do that, then clean the area I clayed with either something like EZ Creme or Poli-Seal before moving onto the next step.



I don't SEAL unless I clay, and I won't clay unless I'm atleast doing an AIO step.
 
Im not sure if any of you are responding directly to my post. But I feel the need to clarify myself. Im not against claying either. I feel that claying is should be needed b4 anything ever gets to touch the paint ect.. I only offer the package without it for cost reasons, which is just a simple washing of car and a simply adding a coat of wax for protection. I always educate the customers into what: I recommend, whats needed, and about the processes. But ultimately at the end of the day the customer gets what the customer wants and there paying for it. So if they make the educated guess not to include claying then thats there loss. But I did offer them the allowance for a "Better Detail"..
 
brwill2005 said:
Claying the car takes extra time, correct? Why would you do an extra step and not charge for it? I do not know about you, but my time is valuable. If a car needs to be clayed, it will be communicated to the customer, and they will have the option to pay extra for it that step. Subsidizing the customer, in the form of giving away your time, is not smart business. Actually it is pretty simple economics.

This is why I don't consider claying an "option". If I get a vehicle in for a paint correction estimate, and I charge (for example) $259.95 for the job, then that price includes the time required for claying. If I get a vehicle in and all the customer wants is a wax, then I quote and charge just for a wax. Again, the average customer doesn't know what all the steps involved are. They don't know about claying, they don't know about two-stage polishing, or LSPs. All they care about is that the job is done right and they're getting fair value for their money (this is where explaining your steps and letting them know what's going on helps (a.k.a. being a good salesperson)). Again, it's like the quick-lube shop just changing your oil and making the new filter optional. 90% of customers that go through those shops don't know *** an oil filter even is, let alone know enough to be able to make an informed decision about whether to have it changed or not.



Accumulator said:
Nah, I'm not trying to :argue against claying...just saying that *IMO* it's not something that *has* to be done every time you apply LSP. People got by fine without clay for a long, long time and there's no reason to do *anything* that doesn't need doing.

Very true, sometimes it isn't required when just applying an LSP. IMO, when doing actual polishing, it should be done every time. My rational is this: Everytime you polish, you're removing a few (or several, depending) microns. Since you can't polish a vehicle indefinitely, why take the risk of possibly not getting the best outcome on one of your polish jobs ? Also, I might say, there are contaminents and bonded junk that you just can't "see" with your naked eye. I'd suspect that there are TONS of particles that make their way into clay that we can't physically see (and if we could, we'd probably want to swap to a new clay bar after every pass, lol). Therefore, how do you qualify if a surface doesn't actually "need" claying ? I understand the whole business-aspect of "if the customer looks at it and is happy, then that's all that matters", and I can agree with that, I'm not trying to argue it. I'm just asking, on a principal level, how do you legitimately qualify when a vehicle doesn't need to be clayed ? I'd have to say that none of us are actually able to make that determination conclusively, since there are contaminents that we can't physically see.
 
Back
Top