Buying a PC 7336SP was the worst decision ever.

B

Bimmer25

New member
The PC made a lot of noise and thats about it.



I am extremely glad I sold it and bought a Makita 9227c. Quite easily the best decision I have ever made. :hifive:



The difference is night and day. Please don't make the same mistake I did even if you're a beginner. :xyxthumbs:xyxthumbs:xyxthumbs
 
I got a 7424 and I regret not going directly to a rotary when I tried a Makita out and got better results with less effort. I guess I can still use my 7424 for smaller jobs :( .
 
I feel you have to have an arsenal. There are times you dont need a rotary because a DA will do just fine.

A lot of people are scared to jump right into a rotary because of fear of burning through the clear. The DA is a good learning tool that helps primer you to move up to a rotary.



When you bought the PC, did you get it only because it was cheaper than a rotary? If you honestly believe that you could've been fine with a rotary from the get go, then that's good, but not everyone is a confident.



Just my .02
 
I use a PC and a Rotary because I prefer my finishes to last 6mo-1year PLUS, with no trails or other problems... even on black... and I also don't like to spend 5 hours polishing... I'd rather do the same in 3 :)



Also humidity, temperature have a lot more of an effect on Rotary use compared to Porter Cable.



Why are you telling people NOT to buy a great product? Almost sounds like you're selling Makitas or something...



I have a Makita 9227 and I use it about 50/50 with my PorterCable 7424 and 4" pads.



BTW, I have not used a 6" pad on my PC in years... Maybe that was your problem?



6" pad on the PC has its uses, doing cars quickly, not trying to get 95%+, just 80%+... Can bang out a polish job in about 2 hours and have the car look BALLER, without a HINT of buffer trails or hologramming, even after a year.



Try that with ONLY having a Rotary.



Have both.



Do not tell people NOT to buy a second half of polishing.



Thats like telling people to NOT BUY Meguiars #26 High-Tech Yellow Wax. Or Optimum Polishes.



Sure, there are better. But its still a damn good product.





If I didn't just add some actual information to this post, I would say it should be deleted... Or at least change the title to a bit less... oh how should I put it... ignorant?











Now.





Mind telling me what your bad experience with the PorterCable is?



Or is the 7336SP Different than the 7424? Maybe you bought the wrong one?



Curious :)



-Tyler
 
7336 and 7424 are the same thing. I believe the only difference is what comes in the box and the counterweight.



The 7336 is sold as a sander with a 6" counterweight. The 7424 comes with a polishing pad and 5" CW.



Both are identical other than that.
 
also to add to what tyler said... if you think that serious correction can't be done via PC, take a look at bryan's (aka : gmblack3a) recent threads...
 
Big Al - you took the words right out of my mouth - I thought about Bryan as soon as I read this, he uses a PC for everything now, and he was a rotary master before the KBM. Also, Todd Helme has said that his rotaries are getting dusty since he started doing the KBM. I sold my Makita and bought a Flex, but I still use my PC 80% of the time!
 
I bought the PC because it was highly praised by numerous individuals on this forum and others I frequent. I didn't buy it because it was cheap. I bought it to buff cars but got lucky and found one on sale.



The PC is ergonomically challenged. It definitely makes a lot of noise for the little amount of work it actually did in removing swirls. I tried numerous polishes and numerous pads. Although it got rid of some swirls, it took way too many passes to get the job done.



So, posts like yours that once again praise the PC is what took me in the wrong direction when I decided to finally buy a buffer. You are trying a lot harder to sell a PC then I'm trying to recommend a 9227c.



The makita 9227c is not dangerous to use. The slowest setting at 600rpm is definitely idiot-proof while at the same time doing an excellent job at quickly removing swirls.



So, I highly recommend a rotary to save time and money over a lethargic PC.:hifive:
 
JuneBug said:
Big Al - you took the words right out of my mouth - I thought about Bryan as soon as I read this, he uses a PC for everything now, and he was a rotary master before the KBM. Also, Todd Helme has said that his rotaries are getting dusty since he started doing the KBM. I sold my Makita and bought a Flex, but I still use my PC 80% of the time!
Click to expand...



Yeah, Bryan is kicking butt with a PC, for sure. Bryan, are you using a DA exclusively now, or do you still use the rotary, too?



Unfortunately, I had to stop using polishing machines early in this detailing season, but I was able to see the PC do some *amazing* things before I stopped. But I'm not throwing away my rotary yet. A PC is really easy to use, but it's ease of use is darn near matched by a rotary with PFW. And PFW works faster and safer than foam. I can still finish down with UF, FPII, 106FF(A), PO85RD much better with a rotary than I can with a DA.



For single-stepping, IMO it would be very hard to beat a DA with either 105 (on hard paint) or 205 (on medium and soft). Yeah, 105 finishes down so well on hard paints with a DA and no bite foam that it *can* be an effective one-stepper, as long as you finish off your 105 application with several passes of very light pressure. And 205 with a DA is a phenomenal one stepper on pretty much everything except rock hard paint.



The DA was all but dismissed as an ineffective beginner's toy for such a long time. Meguiars and Kevin Brown turned that around in a hurry.
 
Ive burned up 7336's, 7424's, and one UDM. Im on my second UDM which appears to be holding its own for the moment. I will be getting the XP after that. Ive just never had a need for the rotary. Not that I dont want to try one, but the PC's and UDM's have managed just fine for me! Been this way for about what..........8 years now? :thx
 
SuperBee364 said:
..For single-stepping, IMO it would be very hard to beat a DA with either 105 (on hard paint) .. 105 finishes down so well on hard paints with a DA and no bite foam that it *can* be an effective one-stepper, as long as you finish off your 105 application with several passes of very light pressure..
Click to expand...



Well, IME you gotta be *really* careful how you buff off the M105 residue lest you get pseudo-hologram-style hazing that only shows up under certain conditions (similar to the M205 oils-issue we've discussed except this is actual marring). I've rethought my opinions about M105 because of this...that SunGun is becoming both a blessing and a curse :D
 
Accumulator said:
Well, IME you gotta be *really* careful how you buff off the M105 residue lest you get pseudo-hologram-style hazing that only shows up under certain conditions (similar to the M205 oils-issue we've discussed except this is actual marring). I've rethought my opinions about M105 because of this...that SunGun is becoming both a blessing and a curse :D
Click to expand...



Yeah, I use 425 to gently remove 105 residue, when I have 105 residue to remove. If the Sun and Venus are correctly aligned, when I finish an application of 105, there isn't any visible residue. A quick spritz of 425 with a gentle wipe, then an IPA spritz with a not-so-gentle wipe, followed by visual inspection. My 105 process, fwiw.
 
Bimmer25 said:
The PC made a lot of noise and thats about it.



I am extremely glad I sold it and bought a Makita 9227c. Quite easily the best decision I have ever made. :hifive:



The difference is night and day. Please don't make the same mistake I did even if you're a beginner. :xyxthumbs:xyxthumbs:xyxthumbs
Click to expand...



Yes, you just can't beat the Makita 9227c, but then again, the new Flex rotaries are also quite. The Makita is a standard in the industry as I've always used them.



I'm sure you'll get many years out of it as I did my older Makitas.



Deanski
 
SuperBee364- Some day I'll start a thread about this M105/M205 pseudo-hologram stuff.



You ever inspect with a 3M SunGun? That's the only way I can see this stuff most of the time (and it has to be in an othewise dark shop too).



And yeah...the universe doesn't always cooperate to the point that I end up residue-free after using M105 :o
 
I own both the 9227c and the 7336. I use the DA about 80% of the time now especially since the introduction of SMAT. The DA is my preferred tool now but I do use the 9227 for the tougher jobs. If you are not getting results with the DA I'd suggest that you haven't developed the proper technique yet.
 
dheath said:
SMAT?



smart, m______, abrasive, technology?



am I close?
Click to expand...



Super Micro Abrasive Technology as opposed to Diminishing Abrasive Technology. Products like Meguiar's #105 & #205 for example.
 
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