Bought My First House

Scott P said:
That is a good point that I'm sure is already aprt of modern home builds. A cable, phone and network connection in each room (including the garage) is worth it.

At least one cable outlet and phone outlet (sometimes two, especially on more expensive homes) in each room is pretty standard these days. A wired network is usually extra.
 
If you have a reputable builder he will be ontop of his guys, and if you have a problem it will be fixed.

I would make sure the sheetrock or drywall is smooth before they paint. Make sure after they paint it looks good.

If you have lino make sure it is under the baseboards. Dont let them cut it and glue around the edges, it will lift.

If you have tile, check the edges, dont accept bad cuts, then seal the grout.

Get a 30 year shingle.

Upgrade the carpet, cheap carpet sucks.

Change the padding in your office if you have carpet to a padding that will let a chair roll on it easier.

I put a complete water system in my house /w reverse osmosis under the sink.- no hard water.

Pre wire for surround sound.

Washable paint in bathrooms, semi gloss.

If the standard house comes with "X" amount per yard for carpet and you upgrade to hard wood, make sure you dont pay for the carpet also. Builders love to charge you the $18 per sq. for the hardwood and also for the carpet that comes "stock" with the house.

If you have a chimney, open the damper and light a news paper low in the firebox, does the smoke go up the flue?

Make sure there is no construction crap left in the house when you close.

Inspect all fiberglass tubs and showers for cracks.

Do you have a dryer vent installed. My first house the builder told me it wasnt his job.

If they paint the exterior and say they do a "primer" coat, most builders just have the painter do 2 coats of regular body color. This will last longer, but not more than 5 or 6 years. If you have them do a primer coat, make sure they use a real primer.

Stainless steel nails on paintable siding.

Screws on decking are better.

I dunno about the codes where you live, but have them put tar paper under the shingles. Much longer life for the shingles as the plywood on the roof roof doesnt absorb the oils out of the shingles.

Wonder board (cement board) for behind tile around a jacuzzi and shower.

These are off the top of my head, i will post more if i think of them, if you still need more stuff :)
 
on sheetrock make sure they either use sheetrock screws or long enough nails.

on our new house about a month after we moved in their was nail pops fricken everywhere and when the guys came to do the basement i looked at the nails they were using and they were like half the size they needed to be. so unless u want to keep pounding nails in and patching over the hammer hole i would definilty use screws much much safer in the long run.
 
First off, let me say thank you very much to everyone for your support!!

TW85,

I certainly appreciate your input. You will be very perpared when it comes to building your first home! Your so right about the insullation, and I have written that down to bring up in our Get To Know the Builder meeting.

The entire subdivision has Vinyl siding. I was a bit leary when I heard that from another subdivision and then saw it. It looked so cheap. I didn't even notice Diamond Ridge had it, but when you look at it, it has a wood texture....definitely doesn't look chincy.

detailbarn--
I briefly met him a few weeks ago when I first looked at the subdivision. His name is Johnny. I will get his last name when I am up there next.

Man, how I wish this garage was even 1/2 the size of some that I have detailed out of. However, it is a decent size for a first (250sq.ft). Plenty enough to detail in and around.

d12loc--
We'll make it happen!! I'll have plenty of beds for people to crash for the weekend.

Wade--
For sure brotha!!

Don--
Thanks for the PM; I just emailed you back. I know nothing about plumbing, so you'll be a big help.
 
These horror story some of yall have make me wish I didnt build houses. No felt under shingles. Heck I thought that was the only right way to do it. Same as cement board (dura rock where Im from) behind tile. These people give companies like mine a bad rap. I have to admit I seen a house where half of the second floor was hanging over the first floor and the owner thought it was normal. Be sure to ask many and many of ?'s.
 
cwcad--
That was some of the first questions I had. I added more outlets in the garage too :naughty

Steve--
:nono Not anytime soon my friend!

Jeff--
I appreciate the time you put into posting your info. and look forward to much more of it in the future.

I just read where Venture Homes has won the Atlanta Integrity Award the last 3 years, so that is definitely a boost of confidence. I've got some great tile coming in for the bathrooms, so making it perfect is a must. I upgraded the shingles as well as the carpet. Both of those are better for resale and the sake of living.

I made sure to ask about the hardwoods upgrade before doing so. Now I have them running from the front door all through the kitchen, breakfast area, and bathroom/powder room. It was definitely worth the $$ to do that.

Can you explain the dryer vent please? I am used to a gas dryer, but they have opted for an electric this time. It is on the top level near the bedrooms.

pappy--
I'll check that out as soon as I see the sheetrock delivered.
 
My garage lighting is not set yet. I want a lot of light in there for my late night details. What suggestions do y'all have?
 
I completely agree with JeffM with most of what he said. Smooth walls, as I'm sure you're aware, is very common in this part of the country (out west, you're lucky to find smooth walls). Surprisingly they cost more than textured but because there is no texture, you notice every single imperfection. Someone mentioned using screws on drywall. While I completely agree, you will still get "nail pops" though not to the extent you would with nails.

I highly recommend you have all hard flooring (wood or tile) installed BEFORE trim so the trim butts up against the flooring, and not vice versa. It is a cleaner look, and depending on how long you keep the house, it will allow flexibility in changing cabinets, etc.

As JeffM pointed out, make sure the house is clean of construction debris. This includes going around the house and emptying all framing of trash before insulation or drywall. The house we had in Arizona had fast food cups, wrappers, etc., within the walls, which were found during a couple of repairs after we moved in. We even found a light duty glove under the carpet.

Watch the painters carefully. Painters are notorious for putting too little paint on the walls/exterior by either not doing the number of coats they said or by heavily thinning the paint. Again, as JeffM stated, use a washable paint in the bathrooms and kitchen (only in the kitchen if you do not have full height splashes).

I can't imagine your local code not requiring tar paper over the decking of the roof, but then again, I'm not surprised by anything now. With the tar paper and whatever moisture barrier they use over the sheathing (likely tar paper considering the vinyl siding), make sure each row overlaps the other by at least 6 inches (certain wraps require greater overlap).

Find out what your local code is for shingle nailing. While obviously Atlanta does not have the risk of hurricanes like we do, get up on the roof and make sure the shingles are nailed the way they are supposed to be. Unfortunately, it is a common occurrence for town inspectors to let things not up to code pass. Unless you have dealt with the town inspectors before and know if they're actually doing their job, act as if they're not. We had the problems we did because of the town not doing their job.

Flashing. While it is hard to describe without seeing the design of your house, make sure all flashing directs the water AWAY from the siding. Where I am discussing is if the roof meets an exterior wall. There will be a piece of copper flashing at the base of the wall that also extends underneath the shingles. At the end of the flashing at the edge of the roof, make sure the flashing is bent such that all water is directed away from the exterior wall. On some homes you do not even have to think about this as the roof never meets an exterior wall. If water is allowed to flow onto an exterior wall, you risk not only rot but mildew and discoloration. There is a house on the next street over from us and the stucco wall is green because the water is not diverted away.

I have been around construction and development my entire life, as has my dad. It is a crooked industry so just stay alert and do not let things you are unhappy with slide by. Don't let my warnings worry you...they're just to make you aware of common issues.
 
Nickc0844 said:
Can you explain the dryer vent please? I am used to a gas dryer, but they have opted for an electric this time. It is on the top level near the bedrooms.

Dryers need to vent their heat. It serves a dual purpose, prevents overheating and a potential fire and it also keeps the air circulating, thus actually drying your clothing. The vent will either be installed on the roof (I personally do not like it as I have gone by houses with a roof vent and there is lint on the shingles) or on an exterior wall. If it is wall mounted, it needs to have caulking around the edge butting up to the siding to prevent moisture from getting to the sheathing (there will be a nice hole in the water barrier).
 
probegt said:
These horror story some of yall have make me wish I didnt build houses. No felt under shingles. Heck I thought that was the only right way to do it. Same as cement board (dura rock where Im from) behind tile. These people give companies like mine a bad rap. I have to admit I seen a house where half of the second floor was hanging over the first floor and the owner thought it was normal. Be sure to ask many and many of ?'s.

Good old 80/20 rule. 20% are qualified, 80% are not. Finding the 20% is damn hard and stressful, especially considering the money at stake. My parents' ended up wasting $60,000 because of incompetent contractors and it is just too much hassle to bring the legal system into it. 10% extra is a good rule when getting a mortgage but that 10% should not have to be spent on redos, LOL.

Whew, three posts in a row. Sorry, just keep seeing things I want to respond to.
 
Just thought of another thing. Figure out where towel bars, toilet paper holders, robe holders, etc., will go before drywall and have the builder put pieces of wood in so you have a solid backing. We failed to do so (first custom house so we couldn't think of everything, and a crappy builder) and have had two bars fall (well, I accidentally fell on one and the other loosened up from the towel weight, LOL). Even with proper fasteners, drywall is only so strong.
 
Nick, Congrats on the new home!! Hope everything turns out well with your lady friend too. :naughty I agree on the Detailing Day meet. Make it a Southeast meet or something. There's no other Alabama people on here, and I would be wiling to make the drive if you could give directions. :)
 
Congrats man. I bought my house about 4 years ago and it has been my best investment so far.
 
pre wire!!! surround sound especially and you can get it cat5 networking too :) - congrats - so are you going to detail the ring before you pop the question? :LOL
 
I decided that I would have a 3rd party Inspector come in before closing just to be on the safe side since I don't know everything I should be looking for.

TW85--
Yeah, I went for the smooth ceilings (damn $1500). I just couldn't stand the look of the pattern they had in the rest of the models. I think I might actually pick up around the house of coke bottles and stuff when I'm there. I'd hate for something gross to get sheetrocked into the house for me to find later.

I'm going to assume (for now) that the dryer vent will be on the roof since the laundry room is on the top level and won't be on an exterior wall. I've written down to spot towel fixtures prior to sheetrocking.

Once again, I appreciate all your input!

Jared--
Absolutely, lets make it an Southeast detail weekend then. You won't be very far away at all and are more than welcome to stay over.

Chris--
Yup, it looks that way :) As great of an opportunity Adam's Polishes gave me, Leanna means more to me in the end. I'll still be floating out there a time or two a year it looks like.

Groebuck--
Absolutely brotha, I'm not punching holes to install my speakers again. I will start shopping for the electronics next month.

As for the ring, The Shane Co. did an excellent job of mounting the diamond....but I'll have a polishing cloth in my pocket prior to popping the question :) Here are some pics of it I took that I sent to the family.
 
hello Nick,
very nice ring.. it looks like a wonderful setting.. i hope that you do not mind but i do not want my wife to see that setting. your future bride should be very proud.

now go take care of that house!
 
:bigups Way to go Nick! I think its great for you! I am happy for you and wish you and your bride to be all the best! Marriage is certainly a challenge. Even though you have been together for 7 years, you will learn alot about her when you start planning the wedding and trimming down the guest list. Trust me, you will see a side of her that you have never seen before! LOL. Seriously, I wish you well. For you garage lights, go for 8' 2lamp strip lights with HO lamps. That will brighten it up nicely. Make sure that your electrical service has adequate breaker space for upgrades in the future (ie. hot tube, welder etc.). Spend the money to buy quality upgrades. We bought our house and had to change out nearly every fixture from plumbing to sprinklers because the previous owner was such a cheap*ss. GET THE THICKEST BEST CARPET PAD YOU CAN GET!!!. You will appreciate how it feels when you walk on it. Let your fiance do the girl thing. They are great decorators by nature and know how to make a house a home. That's all I have to add.
 
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