Blackfire is perfect 100%

B

bill buxton

New member
:biggrin:

LETS JUST SAY I WAS SCEPTICAL ABOUT THIS PRODUCT.

The reason being there are so many products on the market now sporting "we do this and our stuff gives you that" Well I am not cheep but who wants 20-30-50- bottles of anything hanging around not being used? And the cost -plus shipping is another factor for sure.

I am no first timer as far as wax and detailing goes by any means. I have used sealants before and had the time of my life rubbing them off the paint. I received the Black fire wet diamond today and gave it a run. I washed with dawn "corrected the paint 1 week ago" was only strip pin 1 coat of wax. Dried the vehicle hood and 2 front fenders with ww microfiber towel. Started with a nickle size spot of product on the applicator pad and spread a thin coat over all the areas.

I only let the first application dry 35 minutes and decide3d to wipe. I was thinking I would be working my a// off do to past experiences with sealers. WOW, the stuff came off like a hot knife through butter. It was easy easy easy and then the shine was super glassy. The paint was smooth shiny, and wet all what they said in the product description period.

I will just say thanks to all here for providing a great product, accurate review, and all the input from other board members on how to use this stuff.

Yes I am going to apply a second coat and cure overnight...:thumbup:
 
bill buxton said:
:biggrin:


I only let the first application dry 35 minutes and decide3d to wipe. I was thinking I would be working my a// off do to past experiences with sealers.
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I did some experimenting with drying times and it comes off easy no matter what, but I think the directions say to do one panel and remove, so drying time is supposed to be just a matter of minutes (I think).
 
From our site:
Hand Application Tips:

Always use on a cool surface out of direct sunlight.
Apply a Quarter size amount of product on a dry applicator pad and wipe on the surface using small circular motions. Allow Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection to dry before buffing.
Buff haze with a clean Microfiber Buffing Cloth.
Machine Application Tips:

Place a 6-1/2 inch, Hi-Gloss, Constant Pressure, Red Concours Finishing Pad on a 6 inch Hook and Loop Backing Plate and attach to your 7424 machine polisher.
Work on a small area, 24 to 36 inches square, out of direct sunlight.
Apply two 6 to 8 inch lines of All Finish Paint Protection directly to the surface.
With the machine off, spread the sealant over the surface using the dry foam pad. This coats the foam pad and the paint with sealant. (I prefer to apply this sealant with a dry pad, without using any pad lubricant.)
Place the Red Concours Finishing Pad on the paint and turn the machine on. Set the speed dial on the polisher between 3-1/2 and 4.
Work the pad over the surface in a back-and-forth motion and then an up-and-down motion. Apply until the sealant starts to dry. Cover one section of the vehicle at a time (i.e. the hood, a door, fender, etc.)
Allow a haze to form. Hand buff to a brilliant shine with a Microfiber Buffing Cloth.
 
When I used Blackfire Carnauba Paste Wax I applied it to the whole car and then removed it. It still worked fine but I guess its good to know I can do one panel at a time too. :)
 
So I am understanding it.

1- A dawn wash job.

2- Hand dry.

3- Clay bar

4- The sealant, then wax? Or am I missing a step?
 
mka59 said:
So I am understanding it.

1- A dawn wash job.

2- Hand dry.

3- Clay bar

4- The sealant, then wax? Or am I missing a step?
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Hey Mike.... It depends on whether or not your car needs to be polished, which would be after the claybar.

If the paint has swirlmarks, which can be easily seen in direct sunlight, it will need to be polished.

But polishing is not always necessary. I polish my cars once a year. More as needed, but keeping plenty of wax or sealant on the paint definitely helps! Proper washing techniques also help to prevent the necessity for polishing.
 
Well, after reading all the rave reviews of this stuff, I've now placed a THIRD order to PAC.com today. My wallet is getting thinner and thinner every time I click on this site, I need to ask my work to ban it.
 
Husker Z said:
Well, after reading all the rave reviews of this stuff, I've now placed a THIRD order to PAC.com today. My wallet is getting thinner and thinner every time I click on this site, I need to ask my work to ban it.
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I know the feelin but i am sure by now you have great lookin vehicles.

Thats the trade off...
 
Luster said:
Hey Mike.... It depends on whether or not your car needs to be polished, which would be after the claybar.

If the paint has swirlmarks, which can be easily seen in direct sunlight, it will need to be polished.

But polishing is not always necessary. I polish my cars once a year. More as needed, but keeping plenty of wax or sealant on the paint definitely helps! Proper washing techniques also help to prevent the necessity for polishing.
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So true BILL, if you wash with the two bucket method and are somewhat gentle you can keep maring down to nothing,:notworthy:
 
Not to sound smart mouth but

I was just also thinking about what we spend money on. We or at least I get at least 1-2 coffee's a day that's 4.0 bucks, and snacks and smokes. Wow I could outfit my whole shop with stock and new buffers in a month or two.

I guess in the grand scheme of things 30 bucks for a great shine is in fact cheep...:thumbup:
 
I'm going to have to claim to be the exception to the rule. I found that following the directions on the bottle worked best for me.

"DIRECTIONS: Can be applied by hand or machine.

Apply to a cool surface out of direct sunlight. Work on one section at a time (i.e. 1/2 hood, door, etc.). Apply small (nickel size) amounts on a terry cloth or Microfiber applicator. Wipe on with large overlapping strokes and allow haze to dry. Buff off dry residue with a clean terry towel or Microfiber towel.

Continue working around vehicle wiping on small amounts of product and buffing off residues."

I varied from the above directions by using a foam applicator and sometimes did a couple of panels at a time. I found it only took about an average of 4 minutes for Wet Diamond to dry to a haze that buffed off very easily. I was left with a streak free, shiny, and the slickest finish ever. :thumbup:

Mike
 
supercharged said:
BF Wet Diamond is one of the very best sealants out there!!!
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Director
I can say yes x-2 its the easiest one I have used on and off the car. I hate working overtime removing any products as of late. Could be old age HAHAAHAHA WHO KNOWS. Its a staple here after just some test panels for shore.

Angelo, You can make me the poster boy for BFWD if you want, " sorry I don't look good in a thong" :scared: HAHAHAHA.


Thanks again fellas for the great info and products...:thumbup:
 
User Name said:
I did some experimenting with drying times and it comes off easy no matter what, but I think the directions say to do one panel and remove, so drying time is supposed to be just a matter of minutes (I think).
Click to expand...


I found in my area, if I let the wet diamond sit for more than 5 mins, it's a little harder to remove. If I let it sit 2-3 mins it comes off with basically no effort.

I just added another coat tonight and these were my findings. Kind of weird..

Wet Diamond is now my go to sealant. :D
 
nosbusa1700 said:
I found in my area, if I let the wet diamond sit for more than 5 mins, it's a little harder to remove. If I let it sit 2-3 mins it comes off with basically no effort.

I just added another coat tonight and these were my findings. Kind of weird..

Wet Diamond is now my go to sealant. :D
Click to expand...

It's probably simply climatic differences from where we live. I notice a HUGE difference in the application and removal of all my products from when I lived in the NYC area vs. living in Toronto. It is less humid here and as a result, I find my products go on easier and come off easier.

We also have much softer water in Toronto than in northern NJ, which makes the entire washing and waxing experience much better.
 
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