Help with oxidation removal

millhouse

millhouse

New member
Well, it seems as if my car has some major oxidation. The first time I noticed it was when I waxed her up nicely for the first time. Now I dont even bother, as some spots are worse than others...and she looks like hell.

Anyways, I've got some minor rust and dings on her, so new paint will be in the future...but until then I'd still like her to shine up nicely.

I've tried some turtle wax polish...and it's a MAJOR PITA! It's extremely tough to wipe off, and only nets minimal dead paint removal. I think I removed the same amount when I first waxed the car:rolleyes:.

What products and techniques do you guys recommend for the average car owner who doesnt mind putting a little blood and sweat into her? I have a orbital buffer, although it's a cheap one and really only works for removal of wax and lighter weight compounds.

The wax that I like to use is meguiars cleaner wax followed by meguiars gold class...god I love the smell of those:D.

On a side note, I have some excess wax that I havent been able to get off of my trim yet. Some of the trim is rough (I was a little sloppy) and some is the painted door trim which is now hazy from the wax. The wax just wont come off of these areas and any help would be appreciated.

BTW, heres a pic of my car...you should be able to see some of the oxidation, although this is not the bad side (as far as the oxidation goes:D )
 
That car should have a clear coat on it which makes me wonder if its oxdation.

When you polished the car did the towel turn blue the color of the car?
 
If I was working on your car here is what I would do, Klase All-In-One will be your best friend for the oxidation. Put away the buffer, like you said it just saves you time when waxing.

1. Wash
2. 3M Wax Remover with a stiff brush on the old wax and trim
3. AIO by hand
4. Clay – Clay Magic (with this oxidation it is better to do after the AIO)
5. AIO again
6. Platinum or P21S/S100

If you got swirls or scratches you want to get rid of, you will need to add a step for that.
 
I've never heard of Klase All-In-One...where can it be found at? I only know of limited products, so again...what is Platinum or P21S/S100?

Do you recommend using dish soap before all of the to remove the wax from the car...or should I be using the 3M Wax Remover to do this?

You mentioned another step for scratches and swirl...well wouldnt you know it I have them too:D.
 
You should check out the sponsor's site. www.premiumautocare.com Klasse is available there. Loads of products are available there. You might try doing a search here on Klasse or something and see what that comes up with. I think there are some good pictures of swirls kicking around on here that might help you figure out if you have any. I'm guessing that you do. :p
 
the dawn wash is overated, any cleaner, polish, or clay will remove any wax you have on.

Swirls. You need a cleaner such as Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish, by hand it can be done but your arms might be ready to fall off, I say go for it.

With oxidation it is better to put this step after the AIO. For my steps it would go between 4 and 5.
 
From what you have told me with your equipment, experience, and paint condition, you need to take it to a detailer, or a friend who knows what he is doing. Without a rotary buffer(not an orbital), and some abrasive polish, you can not significantly improve the condition of your paint especially oxidation, you can only clean and apply waxes to it. Then once you have it painted, you should be able to take care of it yourself with a little advice and the right products.
 
I think you may be right about going to a detailer...but as of right now, I'm layed off and really dont have the funds. I can swing a 20-30 bones worth of chemicals and such, but cant swing the $100 bones for a professional detailer.

Do you honestly think I cannot do this myself?
 
AIO with a rotary or PC with a Finishing Pad or very light cutting pad. Will make the paint looks new again. Then follow with a swirl remover if needed IE DACP,PI-II. No claying is needed party because the oxidation kind of seals the paint from everything and the Compound will sand down the contaiments anyways. Good luck with your car.
 
Can I use a regular a/c powered drill for this purpose, or will it not turn enough rpms. I guess my main concern with any type of rotory tool is that I'm going to do more harm than good...i.e. adding swirl marks, removing to much paint etc.
 
Heff said:
Without a rotary buffer(not an orbital), and some abrasive polish, you can not significantly improve the condition of your paint especially oxidation, you can only clean and apply waxes to it.
Click to expand...


Not my intention to 'hijack' this thread, but I must respectfully disagree with the above statement. A PC 7424 in the right hands cranked up to 5 or 6 and some AIO will dramatically improve the condition of the paint - especially if it is oxidized. I don't even use a rotary anymore...


Also, Millhouse, I think that you are correct in your thinking regarding the use of a rotary tool. If you attempt to use a drill with a cutting pad on it - you may turn this "simple fracture" into a "compound fracture". Perhaps try Thomasfl's suggestion (although I don't understand the "3M Wax Remover with a stiff brush on the old wax and trim" statement)...

1. wash
2. Klasse AIO applied by hand
3. clay
4. reapply AIO
5. Final sealant -- Your choice - preferably a good product such as P21S, Ultimate Platinum Protection, Poorboy's EX, Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.... Or if you want to go with 'over the counter' products - go with something like Meguiar's #26 High-Tech Yellow Wax (about $12 for 11oz paste), or Meguiar's Gold Class (about $9 for 11oz paste).

Onthespot,
On The Spot Mobile Detailing, NC
 
ok I'll agree and disagree...lol

first "BACK AWAY FROM THE DRILL" that's a nono

second...forget about your cheap orbital

third ...yes you can improve your finish by hand, but expect to sweat a lot...

fourth .I agree with Thomas...NO DISHWASHING LIQUIDS FOR YOUR CAR....KEEP IT ON THE DISHES...

you can get off pretty cheap with a few product

From Dwayne you can get a few products for under $50 that will make a dramatic difference , not a show car finish, but very nice.

I would recommend;)

SSR2 $12
Polish w/ Carnuba $10 (as Natty stated AIO on steriods)
EX $15

total $37 plus shipping

it'll look realy nice:D
 
I too must respectfully disagree with Heff. You can make a dramatic improvement with the PC and even by hand. Difference will be the amount of elbow grease needed and time. Obviously by hand, you'll be doing quite a bit of work but look at it as sweat equity.

As you've already discovered, removing most any product on an oxidized finish will be difficult. This is because the oxidation will want to hold onto the product making it tougher to buff out. But as you progress you'll notice it getting easier and easier finally to the point where it'll be just like a regular wax job. It could take 2,3 even 4 passes depending on the product, applicator and application method but eventually you'll get there.

My advice would be not to try and get it all done in one day. Obviously it took quite a while for the finish to get into this condition so another week or two shouldn't make a difference. Work on one panel at a time until it is completely done all the way to the final finish wax or sealant then move on to another panel. This way you'll see a finished product sooner and it'll give you a good hint at the reward you'll have when it's all done rather than working like a dog through all the oxidation and swirls for days on end before you get to a final look. Just my opinion and 2 cents.

As far as products, plenty of good choices all available right here from the DC online store. AIO will cut the oxidation but won't do anything for swirls. Poorboy's suggestions will tackle both and the Polish w/carnauba and EX will really make it glow at the end.

Apply all those products EXCEPT the EX by hand (STEP AWAY FROM THE DRILL!) using a slightly damp (not soaking wet) cotton terry applicator. Once you get to the EX final finish (or whatever final finish you decide on) use a yellow foam applicator or mf sponge applicator.

Above all, take your time, work in small sections, enjoy and take pride in your work and ride! It'll be worth your efforts, trust me.

Natty
 
Well this thread got some action!!

Anywho Millhouse here is my take on this once again. I have owrked on single stage paint allot. Doing it by hand will take some sweat but you can get the results that you are looking for.

Start with the wash and dry
I would pass on the AIO step and head for light cut compound, it will cut the oxdation. You may need to go over the area twice on the top of the car the sides will most likely take once to be OK.
Work in small areas like a 2 x 2 foot area.
The I would go to a good polish again working the same amount of area. Your towels should pickup a lot less paint this time threw. Next to get the swrail marks out use a swril remover you can get greatones threw this site. I like to glaze the car next but you can skip this step as you are working with a limited amount of cash.
Last wax ro sealant I like wax but thats just me.
Again working by hand is slow but the results are there just take you time and have a lot of water to drink
 
The wax removal is for the trim, he said he has some old wax built up, with a brush it will remove it and whatever junk is on there.

This can be done by hand, I have done it. Yes it is very hard, Natty has a good idea break the job up into more than one day. And yes your arms will be jacked when you finish, so if your car doesn't get you laid your new biceps will.

Poorboy has a great solution, $37 (plus shipping) should really make any impact on your car. If I was you I would put those waxes you have away for a while. But here is the great thing, buy some top-notch products, completely revitalize your car, then when someone asks who did it, say you and that you can easily do there car. You could make some good money this way while gaining more experience.
 
I think you guys hit the nail on the head. The only time I tried to remove the oxidation with the polish I currently have, I've tried to tackle a whole panel at a time...and it sucked:D Not only that but I didnt notice very good results so I quit. I'll definatley have to pick up some of the mentioned products and try to stretch it out over several days time. As for the workout that I'll be getting, hell It's cheaper than taking the car to a detailer:D...and I've been sitting on my ass way to much lately anyways.

Btw, what is this ssr2 that has been mentioned? Will it work better for me than the AIO? Also, what brand of polish is going to work best for me?
 
SSR2 is a swirl removal product by Poorboy's available from Premiumautocare.com, I haven't used it but I would assume that it is more aggresive than AIO, which is good by hand, it should also help you with your swirls and scratches. Also the SSR2 will be cheaper than AIO. I would use a terry cloth to apply this, fold it into quarters.
 
I agree with Thomas too....terry is great for removing scratches and swirls by hand....it becomes part of the abrasive process and when the surface gets real smooth and shiny then switch to a microfiber towel for the last step...

Yes SSR2 is agressive yet gentle with its diminishing abrasives...
 
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