BFWD How do you prefer to apply it?

[egoXtension]

If you have used BFWD do you prefer hand or machine application?

Is either method quicker, or do you feel either method might use less
product / more economicial?

Any other thoughts on using BFWD?

 

[imported_Luster]

If you have used BFWD do you prefer hand or machine application?

Is either method quicker, or do you feel either method might use less
product / more economicial?

Any other thoughts on using BFWD?

Smaller vehicles... Corvettes, coupes, etc. by hand.

Large Trucks, SUV's, etc. by machine.

Machine is a little quicker for me, and, if I'm pretty tired from doing a complete detail, I think there is a little less effort applying by machine. By hand I can get into smaller areas that I can't get with the PC.

 

[imported_User Name]

For me it's not even close.

Apply by machine (G110 + W9006 pad + speed setting 3), in a matter of minutes. Goes on super thin, dries lightning fast and is easy to remove.

Remove by hand. Two MFs (one in each hand) and just pass over the entire car and your done.

I can wax and remove the wax on my IS350 in less than 30 minutes.

 

[Old Pirate]

I'm old fashion, good old applying it by hand with my BLACKFIRE Concours Gold pad that goes on smooth and wipes off so easy.:thumbup:

 

[bigpoppa]

It goes on pretty easily either way, on cars with a bunch of tight areas I tend to apply by hand, and I use a black pad on the PC on larger vehicles. I really don't find machine application saves all *that* much time, TBH.

 

[imported_Luster]

For me it's not even close.

Apply by machine (G110 + W9006 pad + speed setting 3), in a matter of minutes. Goes on super thin, dries lightning fast and is easy to remove.

Remove by hand. Two MFs (one in each hand) and just pass over the entire car and your done.

I can wax and remove the wax on my IS350 in less than 30 minutes.

Yeah, that's a good way to do it. I can do the Vette in 20 minutes if I hump!!!! It's pretty small though...:clap:

 

[egoXtension]

I'm old fashion, good old applying it by hand with my BLACKFIRE Concours Gold pad that goes on smooth and wipes off so easy.:thumbup:

Bingo! Thats what I did - and the MF in each hand to buff. Tho it was jjust a lil two seater I was at it I guess 40 min...I am just naturally slow I suppose.

Oh yeah the Gold pad also slips out of my grasp so easy - dropped it three times! :banghead:

Observation: My Gold pad ended up more Green when done, the BFWD seems to have stained it permanently?? I cleaned it (with some machine pads) in Snappy clean but it never returned to original color.

 

[imported_Luster]

the BFWD seems to have stained it permanently?? I cleaned it (with some machine pads) in Snappy clean but it never returned to original color.

True, I've found BFWD to be very difficult to get out of any pad! You can get it clean but it still leaves it's color behind. I have a few pads dedicated to BFWD, so no worries.

 

[imported_Goose]

I like apllying it via PC7424 with a black pad.
I feel I can save a lot of product this way. Once the pad is primed with BFWD, it can go thin and long on the rest of the car. I estimate I can put product on the pad 4 times at the most. Less than 1/2 ounce if not less...
I use a foam applicator to work the areas around license plate, mirrors, front fascia and things like that...

 

[Todd@RUPES]

If you have used BFWD do you prefer hand or machine application?

Is either method quicker, or do you feel either method might use less
product / more economicial?

Any other thoughts on using BFWD?

One of the great things about Wet Diamond is that is very user friendly. You could almost go so far as to say that it is Fool Proof.

However it was originally designed to be applied and removed (it is an acrylic base) wet. This means wipe on, thinly apply over a section, then remove immediately. A great benefit is that you can allow it too haze or dry and it will still remove easily, unlike some other acrylics.

In fact it seems that the letting it haze the most popular method! In some climates you may find the product streaks slightly or re hazes. In this case simply wipe it off wet instead.

As far as application, I really like the feel of applying it with a dual action polisher such as the Flex or Porter Cable and a Hi Gloss Gold Concours Pad. Two small drops will cover at least a 1/4 of a smaller vehicle. As the pad becomes more saturated, even less is needed to go further.

I apply it very thinly and lightly work it into the paint on a low speed to ensure even coverage, the remove immediately before it dries.

Before machine applying it to the majority of the body, I will first apply it by hand to all over the tight areas I know the machine will not fit, such as vents, door handles, and sharp angles.

 

[imported_Luster]

One of the great things about Wet Diamond is that is very user friendly. You could almost go so far as to say that it is Fool Proof.

However it was originally designed to be applied and removed (it is an acrylic base) wet. This means wipe on, thinly apply over a section, then remove immediately. A great benefit is that you can allow it too haze or dry and it will still remove easily, unlike some other acrylics.

In fact it seems that the letting it haze the most popular method! In some climates you may find the product streaks slightly or re hazes. In this case simply wipe it off wet instead.

.

This is one of the things I like about WD also. Some acrylics, after hazing or "curing" are difficult to remove or worse, they will streak! Again, I use both methods (PC or Manual), depending on my mood at the time.