Best AIO, "cleaner wax"

Sharkie

New member
Did the big spring detail over the last two days. Here’s what I did:



Wash, clay, Meguiar’s #9 swirl remover 2.0, wash, Blackfire polish, Blackfire paint protection (2 coats on body and 1 on bumpers and side cladding).



I also cleaned the engine compartment and detailed the inside but was concentrating on the exterior. Some of the products were new to me like the Blackfire of course but was also my first time using #9 2.0, I have used Finnese-2 in the past and wanted to try something a bit milder. In addition to that I just got 10 MFs from neatitems.



I must say I’m very pleased, this is the best the car has looked after a complete detail. I have used IGH/Blitz and then Klasse after I found Autopia. I’m not sure how much of the results are due to the new products I tried or improved technique. I’ve done several more cars with my PC since I last did this one with FI2 and Klasse. I think I’m much better at working products with the PC now. At any rate I think she came out pretty nice and I feel good recommending Blackfire but obviously can’t comment on durability.



I saw comments in other threads about Blackfire’s diminished slickness in comparison to canauba, Klasse or Zaino. I’d agree with that opinion at least compared to Blitz and Klasse that I’ve used. It’s still slick though. I’m not sure what significance this holds if anything. It’s not like I rub my paint every chance I get, I limit myself to 2 or 3 times a day. ;)



As far as Blackfire’s appearance, I really like it. It’s very shiny but has a warmer glow to it compared to Klasse, at least on this paint which is blue with crushed pearl. Klasse had more of a brilliant sparkle.



Comparing application and removal of Klasse and Blackfire: AIO is easier for me to use because you buff if off while it’s still wet, the blackfire you wait for it to dry, then buff. With SG I always had to wet the MF with a little QD to remove it completely, I found myself having to do this with the Blackfire as well but only certain areas. The Blackfire is very thick compared to SG so I may have to work on getting ultra thin coats and this may make buffing out easier.



Today was sunny but hazy so the pics don’t really do the shine justice but here they are anyways

:D
 
Looks great! Makes me want to go out and put another coat of Blackfire on my WRX! I also use #9 & Blackfire on my Scooby, and the results are very nice!



:up
 
right back at ya' on the subie. meguair's medallion here....

subaru-10.jpg


my subie page:
http://www.mindspring.com/~pmbenn/subaru.htm
 
A few of you may tell me to use the search feature....well I am starting the thread anyway.

I have tried a few AIO type polishes including Klasse All in One and Poliseal. I know Meg has a few offerings as well. I know, I know, the correction purists will say (they are probably right) that these types of polish/lsp combos do not offer any correction ability or last very long.

I am hoping to find one that has more bite than Klasse but lasts as long. Is there one? I know you have all used them, so chime in with your experiences.

I am hoping to hear feedback on several brands: Stoner, Klasse, Optimum, Meg, Mothers, Wheel Wax, and so on.

Two of them I have been anxious to try are Stoner and Wheel Wax. I hope some of you can provide feedback as to the correction ability and protection these products offer. Also include your method of application.

Thanks in advance.
 
What is the condition of the paint? How fine do you want the final finish?

I've used M66, D151, and M20 as an AIO. However, the capabilities of the three differ greatly. For example, D151 is a few notches above M205 in terms of defect removal capability. While I have finished out black with D151, I could see it being a problem for softer paints.

M66 is a notch and a half below M205. It finishes out pretty well. If you don't want to buy a gallon, ColorX is very similar to M66.

M20 can remove some light defects and lasts a long time.
 
What is the condition of the paint? How fine do you want the final finish?

I've used M66, D151, and M20 as an AIO. However, the capabilities of the three differ greatly. For example, D151 is a few notches above M205 in terms of defect removal capability. While I have finished out black with D151, I could see it being a problem for softer paints.

M66 is a notch and a half below M205. It finishes out pretty well. If you don't want to buy a gallon, ColorX is very similar to M66.

M20 can remove some light defects and lasts a long time.

Now that is some solid feedback, thanks.

I guess I don't have one particular paint in mind, just looking for one that will work with most cars. M66 and M20 sound like solid choices.
 
I have never used it, but I have heard some good things about AG Super Resin Polish. I have also used Poorboys PwS with very nice results. None of the AIO's will offer great protection though. Their correction ability is also very pad dependent.
 
I have never used it, but I have heard some good things about AG Super Resin Polish. I have also used Poorboys PwS with very nice results. None of the AIO's will offer great protection though. Their correction ability is also very pad dependent.

I gave AG SRP a run. It was very easy to use and looked ok. However, as you said with AIO type products, it didn't last long. I even went over it with their version of the "topper" product.


I gave Angelo a call this morning and talked over a few products and we both agreed that the best protection is going to come from Klasse. The issue is the correction ability is not really there. The Meg products will offer good correction for quick work but the longevity isn't there. I was hoping to have my cake and eat it too, oh well. Klasse is not going to leave the arsenal anytime soon. I guess I can do a quick run with 205 first, ( I just found it a bit tricky to work with).

The issue is that I don't mind doing a separate polish for people that pay me to do it, but I do a few freebies now and then. I was looking for a way to make them happy without taking my whole day.

Which brings to mind my favorite quote from the Joker - "If you are good at something, never do it for free".
 
You should look into the Werkstat line. The original "Prime" is very much like Klasse AIO, while "Prime Strong" is more abrasive and may also have more acrylic protection in it. They also have a "Prime Acrylic", which is basically Prime with more acrylic sealant blended in and "Prime Carnauba" which has some carnauba blended in. IMO, there is a place for Prime and Prime Strong in my bag. I use these with a Flex DA on green or black foam. The Prime Strong definitely has more cut. It finishes really well on harder paint, but will leave a haze on softer paints. On those, switch to original prime and you're good to go. As far as technique, you have to remember these abrasives start out very small and you can't really break them down because this type of AIO (Klasse, werkstat) really doesn't have the lubrication to get working time and will dry out quickly. Use the AIO sparingly and it's ok to "dry buff" and leave virtually no residue to buff off later.

This works well for me. The protection is very good, although if you want six months, you probably won't get that. I'd say 2-3, going up to six if you go back over it with Acrylic Jett, Klasse HGSG, etc. Actually I've always thought Prime followed by Z8 looked insane, but that's just my eye. I hate to talk up products that aren't sold by CMA (yet...are you listening???) but if you want Klasse with more bite, Werkstat is the way to go.
 
I think Klasse/Werkstatt is going to be the longest lasting and D151 will offer the most cut. Everything else seems to fall in between.
 
You should look into the Werkstat line. The original "Prime" is very much like Klasse AIO, while "Prime Strong" is more abrasive and may also have more acrylic protection in it. They also have a "Prime Acrylic", which is basically Prime with more acrylic sealant blended in and "Prime Carnauba" which has some carnauba blended in. IMO, there is a place for Prime and Prime Strong in my bag. I use these with a Flex DA on green or black foam. The Prime Strong definitely has more cut. It finishes really well on harder paint, but will leave a haze on softer paints. On those, switch to original prime and you're good to go. As far as technique, you have to remember these abrasives start out very small and you can't really break them down because this type of AIO (Klasse, werkstat) really doesn't have the lubrication to get working time and will dry out quickly. Use the AIO sparingly and it's ok to "dry buff" and leave virtually no residue to buff off later.

This works well for me. The protection is very good, although if you want six months, you probably won't get that. I'd say 2-3, going up to six if you go back over it with Acrylic Jett, Klasse HGSG, etc. Actually I've always thought Prime followed by Z8 looked insane, but that's just my eye. I hate to talk up products that aren't sold by CMA (yet...are you listening???) but if you want Klasse with more bite, Werkstat is the way to go.

I am kind of like you in that I don't spend too much time on the forum talking about products I didn't buy here. That is mostly because the products I didn't buy here don't measure up to the ones I did buy here.

I will admit though, I have a bottle of Werkstatt right now and had a chance to use it on my mom's car while in OK a few weeks ago. I bought it out of curiosity just to see how closely they came to Klasse. Surprisingly, very close to Klasse. I bought the Werkstatt before I noticed an instruction that said it applies in cooler temps. Well I am heading into summer here in Phx so the hot dry air is not going to treat a product that dries quickly very well. Therefore I jumped at the chance to use it in the cooler more humid OK. I used a PC on speed 3-4 with 5.5" green LC flat pad. I spritzed the pad with the Jett Trigger to keep it moist and worked until the polish started to dry. it was a bit tougher to remove than Klasse but I came up with a trick that killed two birds. I spritzed a MF towel with Trigger again and wiped the area, flipping to a dry part of the towel to buff. The result was very comparable to Klasse, very clean but not over shiny. Overall I would say that I will prefer to keep Klasse over the Werkstatt because Klasse is easier (for me) to work with.

I must also mention that my mom would not stop talking about the last time I detailed her car. Two years ago when I was last in OK, I used Klasse. Even my mom who was at first skeptical of me spending money on detail gear noticed what the cleaners in Klasse and the acrylic sealers did for her car. She said it had never been so clean and remained very easy to clean for months if not over a year after I left. She said the bugs just rinsed off her car. After she could see what the ability of a good product is, she stopped complaining about the cost. After that I have always had Klasse in the bag.

I think Klasse/Werkstatt is going to be the longest lasting and D151 will offer the most cut. Everything else seems to fall in between.

Thanks, Todd. I am coming to realize this. I have tried a few products which I didn't mention in my OP because I wanted to see what others thought before giving up my had only to have people simply agree with me.

Thanks for all your input.

As a side note: I also polished my sisters car (in OK) with Meg Ult Comp and applied OptiCoat. She could not be happier. Her car looks new and cleans very easily. She has called me a few times to tell me about the compliments she receives. I was so busy helping with other things in my moms house that I did not take pics of either car. Sorry. But they both look great. I am an OptiCoat rookie but found it very easy to work with. Only used half the product. Waiting for another victim.
 
The FK1 FK215 is a pretty good AIO also. It may have as much cut as JW Strong. It may leave a haze on soft paint. The FK215 can pull a lot of dirt out of the paint.

KAIO, JW Strong, PS, FK215 and Zaino AIO are all good AIO's.
 
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