well i figured a white pad is more for medium polishing while gray is for light polishing, my car looked great after OP i applied poliseal and didnt notice a difference, that stuff goes on and disappears right away... im pleased so far besides the holograms but like i said i cant check for that since its raining but looking at it under my garage light they seemed gone
before after rotary hologram
- Thread starter deathlok
- Start date
SpoiledMan
New member
*I* haven't been successful finishing all that well with OP on the rotary when it comes to my Integra which is black and has soft paint. Other side of that is I can take any of the Menzerna finishing polishes and score perfection every time using either the green or white LC pads.
First you're going to need a compound to get rid of the deeper scratching that you have. Once those are removed you should concentrate on the finishing aspect.
What compounds do you have?
First you're going to need a compound to get rid of the deeper scratching that you have. Once those are removed you should concentrate on the finishing aspect.
What compounds do you have?
SpoiledMan
New member
Oh yeah, tape those washer sprayers or they will be black. Don't ask how I know it's not your business.
haha i've got Optimum compound which i used on the car already which made the paint so smooth again, i used that with an orange pad.
Maybe i should OC then use poliseal on a white pad? i'm gonna try my roof next but instead of going OC orange>OP gray im thinking of going OC orange> OP white>PoliSeal gray
oh yea i sanded and painted those washers myself lol i used touch up paint
Maybe i should OC then use poliseal on a white pad? i'm gonna try my roof next but instead of going OC orange>OP gray im thinking of going OC orange> OP white>PoliSeal gray
oh yea i sanded and painted those washers myself lol i used touch up paint
Anthony O.
New member
The progression of rotary for paint correction work is and should be in this manner:
Start with a mild polish (Optimum Polish, Menzerna IP, etc.) and a mild polishing pad, like Lake Country's white pad.
If this does not work well then move up to a more aggressive pad instead of a more aggressive product.
The holograms in the blue colored hood are not that bad and the result you actually want. As long as the holograms are reduced down to little "wisps" (like fine clouds) then the paint correction is going along OK.
My personal description of paint correction is "opening up the paint" and "closing the paint". By that I am referring to how the paint looks after being leveled. I notice large swirls and the space between those lines appear large (even though we are talking very fine lines) but as I go down the aggression scale of pad and product those lines get closer and closer together until they finally disappear. So just before my final finishing step by rotary, the hologram lines should appear as very fine wispy lines. These wisps can and should be removed in your final step, whether that be by rotary or orbital.
Therefore you go from "opening" the paint down to "closing" the paint. In some instances it takes 2 steps and in some it takes 5.
The problem that many guys get into is they get almost to that point of fully closing the paint but because they see some light holograms they then break out an aggressive pad and go back over areas thinking that it will remove the fine scratches but in reality it only makes matters worse.
Anthony
Start with a mild polish (Optimum Polish, Menzerna IP, etc.) and a mild polishing pad, like Lake Country's white pad.
If this does not work well then move up to a more aggressive pad instead of a more aggressive product.
The holograms in the blue colored hood are not that bad and the result you actually want. As long as the holograms are reduced down to little "wisps" (like fine clouds) then the paint correction is going along OK.
My personal description of paint correction is "opening up the paint" and "closing the paint". By that I am referring to how the paint looks after being leveled. I notice large swirls and the space between those lines appear large (even though we are talking very fine lines) but as I go down the aggression scale of pad and product those lines get closer and closer together until they finally disappear. So just before my final finishing step by rotary, the hologram lines should appear as very fine wispy lines. These wisps can and should be removed in your final step, whether that be by rotary or orbital.
Therefore you go from "opening" the paint down to "closing" the paint. In some instances it takes 2 steps and in some it takes 5.
The problem that many guys get into is they get almost to that point of fully closing the paint but because they see some light holograms they then break out an aggressive pad and go back over areas thinking that it will remove the fine scratches but in reality it only makes matters worse.
Anthony
wannafbody
wannafbody
Anthony Orosco said:
Good advice, sometimes you get it almost perfect on black but not quite. Reach for some FP2 and a foam hand applicator and that should take care of the issue.
SpoiledMan
New member
Maybe I'm lost but are OP and IP the same on the cut scale?
SpoiledMan
New member
And this is true of just about any product. The "cut" of the pad will increase/decrease the "cut" of the product.
Anthony O.
New member
bluej511 said:
The orange pad gave you the swirls, not the OP. If you started with an orange pad that then may have been where things went bad.
First pad should of been mild with a mild polish.
In regards to Menzerna IP......I mentioned that as an example of a polish that is "mild"....as in it corrects the majority of your paint correction needs but not so aggressive that it leaves heavy swirls.
Anthony
imported_Ivan Rajic
New member
Blue I would listen to Anthony here...
It seems like you have the LC CCS pads... white and orange is enough to start out with, and you might want yellow for some tougher jobs later on, but first you should get used to the milder polishes/pads...
Looking at the first pic you posted, of the swirls, I would've personally chosen the orange pad with OC instead of OP... OC with orange takes those swirls out easily from what I've experienced, and leaves the paint pretty nice, but not LSP ready....
Next step after OC/orange would be OP on a white pad... that, for me, finishes down LSP ready almost all the time, but like anthony said, there's just something about OP on some vehicles, usually darker, that leaves you wanting more... Menzerna FPII finishes down nicer than OP with a white pad IMO...
Next, either choose a glaze on a white pad, something like Meg's #3, and that should get the paint ready for LSP...
I'm writing all this from experience though, so of course not everyone will get the same results...
That said, I think you should've started (and do so from now on until you get a feel for different cars, colors and pad/polish combos) with something like FPII or OP on a white pad...
if you see half or more of the swirling gone, give it a 2nd pass with the same combo... you don't necessarily need to step up the abrasiveness just because you didn't remove all the defects with 1 pass...
ideally, you would go over the car 5-6 times with a polish such as FPII on a white pad and be done, but in reality, that takes too long... so to save time, you find the worst area on the car, and try out 3-5 different polish/pad combos to see how it goes... this is where you need to start with FPII and white pad, then move up, and back down in abrasiveness, whether it's with pads or polishes (I prefer altering the abrasiveness with polishes)
lastly, the holograms in the photo after you went over with OP/orange are most likely caused by too much product or user error... don't go too fast, don't go too slow, and I would suggest putting a couple lines in between the grooves on those pads, instead of big blotches like that... oh and might want to try out the 6.5" CCS pads... I use the 7.5" about 5% of the time, rotary or RO
Sorry for the long post... hope it helps though
-Ivan
It seems like you have the LC CCS pads... white and orange is enough to start out with, and you might want yellow for some tougher jobs later on, but first you should get used to the milder polishes/pads...
Looking at the first pic you posted, of the swirls, I would've personally chosen the orange pad with OC instead of OP... OC with orange takes those swirls out easily from what I've experienced, and leaves the paint pretty nice, but not LSP ready....
Next step after OC/orange would be OP on a white pad... that, for me, finishes down LSP ready almost all the time, but like anthony said, there's just something about OP on some vehicles, usually darker, that leaves you wanting more... Menzerna FPII finishes down nicer than OP with a white pad IMO...
Next, either choose a glaze on a white pad, something like Meg's #3, and that should get the paint ready for LSP...
I'm writing all this from experience though, so of course not everyone will get the same results...
That said, I think you should've started (and do so from now on until you get a feel for different cars, colors and pad/polish combos) with something like FPII or OP on a white pad...
if you see half or more of the swirling gone, give it a 2nd pass with the same combo... you don't necessarily need to step up the abrasiveness just because you didn't remove all the defects with 1 pass...
ideally, you would go over the car 5-6 times with a polish such as FPII on a white pad and be done, but in reality, that takes too long... so to save time, you find the worst area on the car, and try out 3-5 different polish/pad combos to see how it goes... this is where you need to start with FPII and white pad, then move up, and back down in abrasiveness, whether it's with pads or polishes (I prefer altering the abrasiveness with polishes)
lastly, the holograms in the photo after you went over with OP/orange are most likely caused by too much product or user error... don't go too fast, don't go too slow, and I would suggest putting a couple lines in between the grooves on those pads, instead of big blotches like that... oh and might want to try out the 6.5" CCS pads... I use the 7.5" about 5% of the time, rotary or RO
Sorry for the long post... hope it helps though
-Ivan
Yea it def does help, well after doing 2 passes with OP i went to OC with an orange pad then did 2 passes with OP on a gray pad (im guessing gray is to soft and shouldn't be used with OP) but i did 2 passes with the gray pad to try and remove holograms.
Now like i said i havent seen the sun in 3days so i cant really check.
So you guys suggest doing 2 passes with OP on white and if im not satisfied then to go to OC on orange then OP on white to get rid of holograms?
Looks like saturday (if im not working) ill be doing a couple passes of OP on white, if its not cutting enough go to OC on orange then OP on white (couple passes). Would this leave me with holograms if i use the right amount of product or i should be fine?
Thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it
Now like i said i havent seen the sun in 3days so i cant really check.
So you guys suggest doing 2 passes with OP on white and if im not satisfied then to go to OC on orange then OP on white to get rid of holograms?
Looks like saturday (if im not working) ill be doing a couple passes of OP on white, if its not cutting enough go to OC on orange then OP on white (couple passes). Would this leave me with holograms if i use the right amount of product or i should be fine?
Thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it
imported_Ivan Rajic
New member
bluej511 said:
OP on white 2x then OC/orange is the order to remove the swirls... even only 1 time op/white then 1 time oc/orange... to remove the holograms though I think OP/white would be enough
so what your saying is i should try OP 2x on white to see if it removes swirls and if it doesnt to go OC/orange?
and if i do go OP/white how would i remove holograms if i do get them using the white pad?
Seems that from a couple click&brags i see that using the white pad will remove holograms completely.
and if i do go OP/white how would i remove holograms if i do get them using the white pad?
Seems that from a couple click&brags i see that using the white pad will remove holograms completely.
It seems as if the lines were caused by either too dense of a pad to start or too much product. I'm more leaning towards too aggressive of a pad.
Occassionally when this happens to me, I use the PC to correct small areas.
Also next time try to work a smaller area so you can focus on correcting that area before moving to the rest of the car...
Occassionally when this happens to me, I use the PC to correct small areas.
Also next time try to work a smaller area so you can focus on correcting that area before moving to the rest of the car...