Attention Corvette Owners

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ptaylor_9849

New member
FINALLY, after months and months of research, sweat, money, sleepless nights, polishing at 3am and asking everyboby under the sun how to remove the scratches from my black C6 I finally have my answer and I owe it all to Superbee364. The way to get light scratches and marring out of hard corvette clear is not in the polish but in the pad. I tried every polish I could with every foam pad color in the rainbow and guess what works unbelievable? A purple foamed/wool pad. Not only does it remove the scratches but it leaves the surface super clear and full of gloss with NO HAZING. I used 106ff as the polish. I shyed away from wool pads because I kept hearing about how they mark up the surface. NOT SO WITH THE FOAMED/WOOL. I would strongly suggest trying this pad if your working on hard clearcoat. It puts ordinary foam pads to shame.



Thank you Superbee,



Patrick
 
That's why I almost always use wool for correction:grinno: I will have to try the foamed wool out next order.



:goodjob on your vette and congrats:clap: finally



ps..you should have had me do it months ago and I would have saved you a lot of sleep:phaha



Where's the pics Patrick? You know a little click and brag:woot:
 
Glad to hear it worked for you, Patrick! :)



I was soooo happy with the result the foamed wool pad gave me with IP on my car. I ended up with a few light holograms that weren't visible under the halogens, but other than that I was thrilled. I bet the 106ff finished down even better.



Very happy to hear about this, man.:hifive:
 
What was your complete process? You used a rotary right? Did you finish with a foamed wool pad or did you just do the initial buffing with it? This is more of a wool pad with a foam type base that a regular foam pad. This would that *one) of the last pads I would have finished with on a black vette.
 
OK you've got my attention, Are these the pads from AG? 6.5 inch? Would it work on spider webbing and swirls, using the appropriate product of course? My c5 is really blemish free for the most part but when the time comes that I need to have the ability to correct any imperfections I'd want to have that pad on hand.
 
Praise the lord! I will definitely give this a shot. For now it's time to break out the glaze and hide it. :wall Looks like LC makes them. Is this the one you used?
 
This is a 6.5 inch purple foamed/wool pad from Top of the Line. It only cost $8.95. It works so much nicer than the foam only pads. David, there was no need to compound beforehand so there is no hazing at all. Moreover, there is very little heat generated by this pad so you can polish for a long time without burn worry. There is enough heat generated to break down the polish properly which allows you to see through as to whether your getting enough correction done without stopping and wiping all the time. When you first use the pad there is a bit of linting but that goes away pretty quick. I also have a flexible backplate which helps the pad conform to the many curves on the vette.

This pad absolutely rules. No hazing, no marring, no scratching, no clumping, no dusting.

I have only tried it with 106ff but I'm sure it would work well with other polishes. Oh, one final note. I did this major correction to my rock hard clearcoat using a cheap Chicago Electric rotary. Imagine what some of you skilled detailers could do with this unbelievable pad! 98 vette, BUY THIS PAD.



Patrick
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
. David, there was no need to compound beforehand so there is no hazing at all. Moreover, there is very little heat generated by this pad so you can polish for a long time without burn worry. There is enough heat generated to break down the polish properly which allows you to see through as to whether your getting enough correction done without stopping and wiping all the time.
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So basically you used an all-in-one/1 step type process by using this pad with a finishing product to correct scratches/marring? The pad is doing the correction and not the product so much. Seems like an interesting combo. Have you washed the car yet? Is there a chance that micro swirls/wheel marks could appear down the road? I've used a pad similar to this and could never pull this off on black vehicles without swirls appearing down the road. :bounce
 
David, I have not washed the car since polishing but I have done numerous IPA wipe downs and it still looks unreal. I don't feel that problems will re-appear because I've been going at this car since January and NOTHING has made it look this good. I have not seen it outside in the daylight so there may be some holograms but my PC will take care of that if there are any. Please know that I have spent many, many hours on this car so I am intimately familiar as to what doesn't work on this paint. I should have listened to rydawg from the beginning and tried wool. It wasn't until I heard about the foamed/wool from Superbee that I decided to give it a shot. Boy am I glad I did!



Patrick
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
David, I have not washed the car since polishing but I have done numerous IPA wipe downs and it still looks unreal. I don't feel that problems will re-appear because I've been going at this car since January and NOTHING has made it look this good. I have not seen it outside in the daylight so there may be some holograms but my PC will take care of that if there are any.
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I'm glad that it worked out good for you. I have a couple of questions. Why would you do IPA wipe downs if 106FF doesn't have fillers? By you using a PC on the swirls(if there is any), aren't you just covering the swirls? Have you ever used a wool pad on this vehicle before? (you mentioned using alot of foam pads). A wool based pad will definately cut and deepen the the clarity of the finish noticeably more, especially if you have scratches that foam hasn't helped on. I've done alot of black vettes and have never been able to 1 step them with a wool based (even lambswool) pad before w/o swirls being there ultimately. Just wondering.
 
David, he had previously compounded his vette. It left him with some hazing and compounding marks that he hadn't been able to get out. He read my experience with the purple foamed wool (http://autopia.org/forum/car-detail...ml?highlight=foamed+wool+pads+rock#post924829) and decided to use the foamed wool with 106ff to clean up the compounding haze and marks.



I had been having the exact same problem (leftover compounding marks and haze in very hard clear coat) that I wasn't having any luck correcting (using 106ff with white and green LC foam pads) when I stumbled on the purple foamed wool. The foamed wool and IP did the trick. I followed the foamed wool up with a green LC foam and 106ff to clear up a few very minor holograms.



It appears that the foamed wool is a great intermediate (possibly final, depending on polish used with it) step to help remove compounding haze and marks (and other light/moderate defects) in really hard clear coats. It is a MUCH better pad than the green LC foam (supposedly meant for final polish on hard clears), and it scales in aggressiveness nicely with more aggressive polishes.



Using the foamed wool on my hard clear with IP gave me alot more correcting ability than I could have imagined.



This is the pad: Foamed Wool 6.5 inch Polishing/Buffing Pads



Edit: Regarding the IPA wipedowns.. While it's true that 106ff doesn't have any fillers in it, it seems like it still does do some imperfection hiding. I'm sure it's not intentional, but I have been able to find a few things after an IPA after using 106ff that I couldn't see prior to the wipedown. It seems like all the SRC polishes like to leave your car a bit.. for lack of a better term... oily.
 
I didn't remember the prior conversation/problem on this one until just now. Could it be correct to say that lots of times when compound a black Vette, you'll need to use a wool based pad to remove the compounding haze? I've suggested this on several recent and older threads with respect to removing compounding marks. I've found that even if you compound with the softest foam pad, there's a strong chance that you'll need a wool to remove the hazing. Especially on Corvettes. The foamed wool seems to be the least agressive of all wool pads. Based on experience, I still feel strongly that you'll still need to buff via a rotary and foam pad to eliminate/remove wool pad induced swirls. We'll see what happens.
 
David Fermani said:
I didn't remember the prior conversation/problem on this one until just now. Could it be correct to say that lots of times when compound a black Vette, you'll need to use a wool based pad to remove the compounding haze? I've suggested this on several recent and older threads with respect to removing compounding marks. I've found that even if you compound with the softest foam pad, there's a strong chance that you'll need a wool to remove the hazing. Especially on Corvettes. The foamed wool seems to be the least agressive of all wool pads. Based on experience, I still feel strongly that you'll still need to buff via a rotary and foam pad to eliminate/remove wool pad induced swirls. We'll see what happens.
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Change that to any car with a really hard clear coat, and I think we've got a deal. :P



Patrick, I'm so glad this worked out for you... I was so excited after I made the first pass with this combo on my car, I got my wife out of bed (recovering from a C section) and made her look at my hood. She looked at me like *I* was the one high on percocet, and went back to bed. I was as frustrated as you were with this problem.
 
I will pull the car into the sun today and see what it looks like. David, the reason I did the alcohol wipe downs was because I wrote a previous post called return of the haze where after polishing out the compounding haze, it would return in a day or two. Superbee suggested an alcohol wipe to make absolutely sure I wasn't just hiding the haze. But here's the best part of all of this. There is no more haze because I'm not using a compound anymore. I'm simply using 106ff and this purple pad on a rotary with moderate pressure and it is working like nothing I've ever seen before. I can remove those stubborn scratches and marring with only one product (106ff) and it finishes like glass. That is why I'm so excited about this. To answer your question, I have never used a wool pad before on this car or any other. I'm sure others will try this pad and come up with even better combinations than this. But for now, I'm beyong excited about this discovery. Here's another totally awesome feature about this pad. It does not generate the amount of heat that regular foam pads create which allows for even longer polishing with little or no fear of burn. It's just like the ad says: the cutting power of wool with the finishing power of foam. If you think I'm exaggerating about this pad check this out. My 2005 black corvette now looks like it's sitting on the showroom floor and guess what? I've only been using a rotary for two weeks!



Patrick
 
If you use a nylon bristled brush or a wool pad spur, you can really get some serious use out of one pad. These pads work the best if you keep them very clean. I was using the brush on my pad after every body panel. I did about 3/4's of the car before I wasn't able to clean the pad well enough with the brush anymore. My car is pretty big, too.
 
I was pretty happy about the lower amount of heat build up, too, Patrick. It gave me the confidence to go over a few plastic parts that I had previously only used the PC on for fear of melting them with the rotary. I had great results, but you still have to be careful on the plastic. No pressure, and keep the head moving at a good clip.
 
Please understand, I'm not saying that this particular pad is the answer to all our prayers. I have never used a wool pad before and the difference between wool and foam is unreal.

Also, I hope I didn't make it sound like all you have to do is one pass and your car is perfect. You still have to do multiple passes but there's no haze removal and the shine and depth keep getting better and better with every pass. I'm sure that other lite wool cutting pads would work as well. What I'm so excited about is that now I'm thinking in a whole new direction and that direction is WOOL for hard clears NOT FOAM. By the way, I pulled my car out of the garage into direct sunlight this morning. No haze, no holograms and no buffer trails. Yahoo baby...Yahoo.



Patrick
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
Please understand, I'm not saying that this particular pad is the answer to all our prayers. I have never used a wool pad before and the difference between wool and foam is unreal.

Also, I hope I didn't make it sound like all you have to do is one pass and your car is perfect. You still have to do multiple passes but there's no haze removal and the shine and depth keep getting better and better with every pass. I'm sure that other lite wool cutting pads would work as well. What I'm so excited about is that now I'm thinking in a whole new direction and that direction is WOOL for hard clears NOT FOAM. By the way, I pulled my car out of the garage into direct sunlight this morning. No haze, no holograms and no buffer trails. Yahoo baby...Yahoo.



Patrick
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Pictures, man, we need PICTURES! :)
 
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