Attention Corvette Owners

ptaylor_9849 said:
I'm sure that other lite wool cutting pads would work as well. What I'm so excited about is that now I'm thinking in a whole new direction and that direction is WOOL for hard clears NOT FOAM.

Patrick
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Please don't take offense but, try not to feel that comfortable with wool as your 1st try/go to pad on hard clears. I'd say it's a must after compounding, but not for basic correction. I avoid wool(even polishing wool) on dark colored Corvettes because there are several glaze/polish combos that work great with a foam pad too. I think after your original application with compound, you were forced to use wool to correct things. Wool is typically easier to use and does create much less heat, but it has tendancy to create swirls, which require a foam pad to knock down.
 
David Fermani said:
Please don't take offense but, try not to feel that comfortable with wool as your 1st try/go to pad on hard clears. I'd say it's a must after compounding, but not for basic correction. I avoid wool(even polishing wool) on dark colored Corvettes because there are several glaze/polish combos that work great with a foam pad too. I think after your original application with compound, you were forced to use wool to correct things. Wool is typically easier to use and does create much less heat, but it has tendancy to create swirls, which require a foam pad to knock down.
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Have you tried this new foamed wool pad yet, David? It's really hard to not feel comfortable having it as a go-to pad with these kind of results. I wish I had a before picture to show you, but this door had mild/moderate hazing, and compounding swirls prior to using the foamed wool and IP. This picture was taken after two passes of IP with the foamed wool. It's really hard to argue with these kind of results. Different wool pads produce different results, of course. So many people seem to be making judgements about this pad before they have even tried it. Blanket statements about wool having a "tendency to create swirls" is way too general of a statement to make, IMO. Not trying to get hostile here, just getting a bit exasperated from this thread as well as mine; so many people poo pooing what look to be fantastic results without ever having tried the pad. I ended up abandoning my initial thread about foamed wool pads for this same reason. Maybe it's because the people that are talking the product up are new guys (like myself and Patrick), I don't know, but I'd be willing to bet if Scottwax (not trying to pick on Scott, just an example) posted a thread like this, there would be a huge run on foamed wool pads from AG, and everyone would be proclaiming it as the new FP pad to have.



The facts are that this particular pad with a mild or finishing polish can produce some very good LSP ready results on certain hard clear coats with certain defects. Period.



IMG_0273.jpg
 
Yesterday I polished my brothers Nassau Blue FRC vette. He had some light swirls and some "light scratches" from the use of a water blade.



I used Edge green wool first with presta 1500/ rotary 1500. It got most of the light swirls out in one pass, but the "light scratches" it took 3 passes to get 80% of them out.



So I broke out the black wool and used the presta 1500 with that. One pass and the light scratches where gone. Then I followed green wool and the P1500.



I pulled the car outside in the sun to look for holograms and on this light blue color I could only find a few. I then polished the entire car with ZPC/green P2 foam pad/1500 rotary just to be safe.



When I did the first pass with the green wool, it really brought the gloss out in the paint. It would not cut the light scratches on this hard vette clear.



I know I have been repeating myself over the past few weeks, but the combo of the Metabo rotary, edge wool and edge adapter are very nice and smooth.
 
I have been talking to Patrick about his car for many months now on his paint issue and he has tried so many combos and was never happy. I know how picky he is and I know this combo must haved worked great. This is the first time I have ever seen him excited about his car. Wool does do amazing correction and I could imagine what foamed wool would be like. I will pick one up now.
 
wannafbody said:
Are the fibers twisted or loose? Has anyone tried this pad with heavier compounds?
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Loose. I've tried it with Power Gloss, and it has a lot of spunk to it. It doesn't finish down LSP ready, of course, but it is a pretty powerful defect remover. The pad is advertised as being able to remove 1400 grit scratches.



I had a few deeper scratches on my trunk that I completely removed by using the foamed wool pad with Power Gloss, then used another foamed wool with IP. It finished down LSP ready after the IP, but I went ahead and used 106ff on it with a green foam pad just to be sure. I was not able to tell a difference between the finish left by the foamed wool/IP and the green foam/106ff.
 
gmblack3a said:
Yesterday I polished my brothers Nassau Blue FRC vette. He had some light swirls and some "light scratches" from the use of a water blade.



I used Edge green wool first with presta 1500/ rotary 1500. It got most of the light swirls out in one pass, but the "light scratches" it took 3 passes to get 80% of them out.



So I broke out the black wool and used the presta 1500 with that. One pass and the light scratches where gone. Then I followed green wool and the P1500.



I pulled the car outside in the sun to look for holograms and on this light blue color I could only find a few. I then polished the entire car with ZPC/green P2 foam pad/1500 rotary just to be safe.



When I did the first pass with the green wool, it really brought the gloss out in the paint. It would not cut the light scratches on this hard vette clear.



I know I have been repeating myself over the past few weeks, but the combo of the Metabo rotary, edge wool and edge adapter are very nice and smooth.
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I just used Edge blue wool with 106ff on my wife's Sequoia tonight. The wool really brought the finish up much faster than a green foam. I'm loving the Edge 6" wool line, as well as the purple foamed wool. I don't think I'm going to be using my foam pads much any more except possibly the 4 inchers in tight spots.



The Edge wool did leave my car looking like a half sheared sheep, though. The foamed wool pads don't shed at all.
 
I applaud your results and opinions on the process and products being used. But for argument’s sake I'd like to clarify my view of this pad and its use. Please don't feel that I am trying to be attacking, I'm just trying to have a friendly debate.



Yes, I've tried this pad many times and I'm very familiar with its performance and characteristics. Yes, the power of wool as a cutting tool is hard to beat, but it can't and shouldn't be promoted as a 1-step pad, even with the best techniques applied. I've witnessed and tried this thousand's of times. The foamed wool is probably one of the least aggressive of the wool pads offered and it definitely has a useful place in *some* correction. Wool pads typically do create swirls, especially with a polish/glaze with any kind of abrasive properties. Any time a wool pad is used, a foam pad will always improve what has already been created. That's because wool isn't meant to be used for final finishing. It will make that already nice/cut down finish even deeper. That's because it's breaking down the slight haze/swirls that the wool created in the 1st place. Wool cuts, foam polishes. On dark cars, it's much more apparent, but it's still there on light finishes. I also agree that the above results are awesome. Now try a finishing foam pad and it will be even better. It may be *acceptable* for some people to LSP after using a foamed wool pad (hard or soft finish), but on black (or dark colors) a foam pad will is essential for producing the best possible result. Remember, it's a wool based pad that is not designed to be a finishing pad. Per the manufacturer's recommendation/description (see LC's pad application guide), it *may* still require an additional finishing process. I think the *may* refers to the color of vehicle, type of product used, and/or the type of finish being worked with. Yes, on light colored vehicles, you *can* 1 step with it without seeing/noticing the need to take it one step further, but on a dark finish, it's highly unlikely, especially if you're using a product with any type of abrasives to finish with it. If the results are acceptable for you, great. They might not be for some other people that are in search for the best possible finish. :up
 
David Fermani said:
I applaud your results and opinions on the process and products being used. But for argument’s sake I'd like to clarify my view of this pad and its use. Please don't feel that I am trying to be attacking, I'm just trying to have a friendly debate.



Yes, I've tried this pad many times and I'm very familiar with its performance and characteristics. Yes, the power of wool as a cutting tool is hard to beat, but it can't and shouldn't be promoted as a 1-step pad, even with the best techniques applied. I've witnessed and tried this thousand's of times. The foamed wool is probably one of the least aggressive of the wool pads offered and it definitely has a useful place in *some* correction. Wool pads typically do create swirls, especially with a polish/glaze with any kind of abrasive properties. Any time a wool pad is used, a foam pad will always improve what has already been created. That's because wool isn't meant to be used for final finishing. It will make that already nice/cut down finish even deeper. That's because it's breaking down the slight haze/swirls that the wool created in the 1st place. Wool cuts, foam polishes. On dark cars, it's much more apparent, but it's still there on light finishes. I also agree that the above results are awesome. Now try a finishing foam pad and it will be even better. It may be *acceptable* for some people to LSP after using a foamed wool pad (hard or soft finish), but on black (or dark colors) a foam pad will is essential for producing the best possible result. Remember, it's a wool based pad that is not designed to be a finishing pad. Per the manufacturer's recommendation/description (see LC's pad application guide), it *may* still require an additional finishing process. I think the *may* refers to the color of vehicle, type of product used, and/or the type of finish being worked with. Yes, on light colored vehicles, you *can* 1 step with it without seeing/noticing the need to take it one step further, but on a dark finish, it's highly unlikely, especially if you're using a product with any type of abrasives to finish with it. If the results are acceptable for you, great. They might not be for some other people that are in search for the best possible finish. :up
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It was never my intention to promote it as a one-step pad. I guess I haven't been very clear (in spite of my attempts to be) if that's how you understood the discussion.



As for the arguement's sake, I'm done. I never had any intention of turning this into a huge wool/foamed, etc. debate.
 
SuperBee364 said:
David, he had previously compounded his vette. It left him with some hazing and compounding marks that he hadn't been able to get out. He read my experience with the purple foamed wool (http://autopia.org/forum/car-detail...ml?highlight=foamed+wool+pads+rock#post924829) and decided to use the foamed wool with 106ff to clean up the compounding haze and marks.



I had been having the exact same problem (leftover compounding marks and haze in very hard clear coat) that I wasn't having any luck correcting (using 106ff with white and green LC foam pads) when I stumbled on the purple foamed wool. The foamed wool and IP did the trick. I followed the foamed wool up with a green LC foam and 106ff to clear up a few very minor holograms.



It appears that the foamed wool is a great intermediate (possibly final, depending on polish used with it) step to help remove compounding haze and marks (and other light/moderate defects) in really hard clear coats. It is a MUCH better pad than the green LC foam (supposedly meant for final polish on hard clears), and it scales in aggressiveness nicely with more aggressive polishes.



Using the foamed wool on my hard clear with IP gave me alot more correcting ability than I could have imagined.



This is the pad: Foamed Wool 6.5 inch Polishing/Buffing Pads



Edit: Regarding the IPA wipedowns.. While it's true that 106ff doesn't have any fillers in it, it seems like it still does do some imperfection hiding. I'm sure it's not intentional, but I have been able to find a few things after an IPA after using 106ff that I couldn't see prior to the wipedown. It seems like all the SRC polishes like to leave your car a bit.. for lack of a better term... oily.
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Reposted to help clear up any confusion on promoting this as a one step pad. Hope this helps.
 
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