Aquawax on one month old repaint?

C

Cassman

New member
Anyone think this is a bad idea? I am familiar with the idea that one shouldn't use an LSP on repaints for 60-90 days. I am just wondering if AW is enough of a sealant that it should not be used. I am comfortable waiting but I am curious about your thoughts...
 
My personal opinion on these, I would really wait about 2month or so before doing anything in a repainted car. But it's your call!!!!
 
I'm somewhat in the same boat. I just had my bumper repaired & repainted by the autobody shop. I am going to wait until August to wax, but then I was wondering if even then, it would be too soon to use Klasse AIO as a first step on that newly painted area. I'm also concerned about claying, though I can probably put that off until next spring.



I had planned to put Collinite 476 on top of the KAIO and use 4UPPS as needed. (Patrick at Excel gave me some good advice on products for my needs a while back, together with this forum.) What do you folks think I should do, or really not do, at 2 mos?



Also, is it a bad idea to rely on ONR for my handwashing over the coming weeks? I'm not sure how wary of things other than straight car soap I need to be.



The ONR website says "This unique product contains substantive polymers which bond to the paint and protect it during the wash. Therefore, No Rinseâ„¢ Wash & Shine offers greater protection and lubricity than conventional car washes leaving a sleek & glossy finish behind afterwards." Maybe that's a bad match with new paint too.



Thanks in any advance for your advice.



(Cassman, I hope you don't consider this a thread jack.)
 
Cassman- I'm a broken record on this, basing my position on what the paint manufacturers told MirrorFinishMan when he queried them. I wouldn't use the AW until after the outgassing/curing period. I just use Meg's #5 after every wash.



UpNorth- I have no idea about the ONR, but *I* would err on the side of caution myself.
 
My Honda had it's front end repainted in January and asked the same question. Following Accumulator's advice, I didn't use any LSP until I detailed it yesterday and I can tell there is a significant difference in how hard the paint is if allowed to fully cure. A few weeks after the repaint, I did a minor polishing with Blackfire polish and it took out 80% of the swirls in one pass. After curing, two passes with IP only took out 50% of the swirls. The factory painted areas only need one pass with Blackfire to be LSP ready.



On the other hand, my boss had a door of his brand new mercedes repainted and then waxed it after one week. Now three weeks after the repaint, it shows every defect imaginable while the rest of the car with ceramiclear only shows minor marring.



Given this, follow the standard three month guideline to be safe.



Regarding ONR, I used it every week while my paint was curing so if it did hinder the hardness, I can't tell.
 
edsmed- Thanks for posting that, interesting about your boss' Benz. Sounds like the ONR didn't interfere with your paint's curing.
 
Thanks everyone for all the good information & cautions. I sent an e-mail to Optimum to get their opinion about whether ONR + new paint is risky. I'll be sure to share their response. I'm glad Edsmen that your experience was positive. I'd miss ONR if I had to wait too long to use it again. Also I'll be picturing that Benz too any time I get the urge to wax before I should.
 
My truck was repainted a month ago and I put Zaino on it (or OCW) and I have been fine this far. Both of these products are A-OK for new paint.
 
Brandon1 said:
My truck was repainted a month ago and I put Zaino on it (or OCW) and I have been fine this far..
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Don't take this the wrong way (the last thing I want to do is :argue about this topic; whatever works for somebody is cool with me), but how can you tell after one month?



Every one of my (dozens of) repaints continued to harden for well over a month, usually not reaching final hardness until at least week 8 or so. The (baked) S-H paint on my S8 didn't finish hardening until well after that (sure glad I did the major correction before it got really hard).



Knowing that Sal was a painter for years, I wish he, or somebody in the know, would explain how Z can be fresh-repaint-friendly (and inform the paint makers about it so they could respond with their opinions).
 
Well, I cant tell after one month except that my paint hasent fallen off yet. I did talk with both Sal and David from OPT and they seemed to know what they are talking about, and I could not wait to have wax on the paint, I did not want water spotting with my areas hard water.
 
Brandon1 said:
Well, I cant tell after one month except that my paint hasent fallen off yet. I did talk with both Sal and David from OPT.. and I could not wait to have wax on the paint, I did not want water spotting with my areas hard water.
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Heh heh, I got a kick out of the first line of the above :D I hope everyone understands that the *only* potential issue I've ever heard of is the "attaining maximum potential hardness" thing. And there can be greater concerns anyhow.



I certainly understand your decision, and yeah, it can be a royal PIA to keep things protected with just a glaze. Hard water can be a real problem (had that at my previous shop) and since a wash takes the glaze off you are indeed vulnerable.



Hope I didn't sound like [jerk] in my previous post, I can see how I might have.
 
Wow! Some of you are saying two months? My dealer told me two weeks after they repainted my hood.



No biggie though. They have to re-paint the hood again. They left a huge ring around the spot where they tried to fix a deep (into the metal) scratch I got from a rock thrown up by a truck on the interstate.



And my car (2007 Black Infiniti G35S sedan) was less than a month old! I almost cried.
 
I have heard that most new paints are catelized and already pre-baked at the paint booth. My paint is already super super super hard and I didnt figure a thin layer of OCW was going to stop outgassing, but I could see where it probably would be safer to just glaze it for 2 months, but I am not that patient.



Accumulator-Your fine dude, just a difference in opinion, I just did not want waterspots.
 
Thanks for the replies. Just checked the thread after the weekend. I figured I would wait anyway. I'll stick with my original plan to wait about 3 months.
 
Brandon01- Glad we're cool, I can come across a bit :nono when I'm opinionated about something. And I'm glad to hear your repaint is very hard, that's what counts in my book.



Matrix 1- Heh heh, I generally wait 3-4 months :eek



With a dealership repaint (and I worked at a dealership bodyshop back in the day) I'd be careful about what advice you take to heart. OTOH the guys at my Porsche/Audi dealer do generally know their stuff...I guess it's all about the individuals, some people know their business and (many) others don't.



Suggestion about the depression/ring, do you don't have to go through this again- ask them about "shrinkage over time". Often stuff like that will initially look OK and then show up later (gee, ask how I know :o ). And to prevent it from happening right off the bat, they oughta check their prep with a "guide coat" of paint over the primer: they spray that paint on when they think everything's level and then sand it off; any high/low spots will show up during the sanding (low spots will still have the guide coat paint in them) so they can notice/address them. Sure wish they'd done that on my MPV's hatch where they left sanding scratches :rolleyes:



velobard- That's the thread I consider Gospel on this subject. A devil's advocate could suggest that the paint manufacturers are simply doing a CYA though, huh? Heh heh, I hate it when I can argue both sides of an argument! Somebody (like Sal, who could use it as marketing) oughta do a controlled experiment to settle it once and for all.
 
While I sort of hate to add anything after Accumlater summed things up so nicely, I wanted to share what I heard back from David at Optimum. He reports that ONR & OCW are indeed body shop safe. I'll quote from his e-mail rather than risk misstatement:



Wrt ONR use as a wash or Quick Detail:

"This product is bodyshop safe and is being used at the QD strength by many bodyshops to wipe down the car after painting and before delivery to remove dust and dirt. It does not affect the new paint or the curing process as a wash or as a quick detailer.

Optimum No Rinse will work the same way as before on the newly painted bumper for you."



Wrt OCW:

"Optimum Car Wax is also bodyshop safe and is in fact paintable (as is Optimum No Rinse). Optimum Car Wax has been used by Ford and Chrysler in their paint and bodyshop training centers and can be used over paint that has cured for over 24 hours. You can use it right after washing with No Rinse."



"[OCW] is the only car wax that is bodyshop safe and even paintable. Optimum Car Wax underwent through thorough testing before it was allowed into the test centers of these car manufacturers."





Each individual needs to take the information available and make their own decision based on their level of risk aversion. But here we have Dave at Optimum + users reporting good experiences with ONR & OCW well befor the traditional cure time. Perhaps Optimum makes the products that are the exception to the rules. I know I will definitely try to do an ONR wash this weekend. As for the OCW, I may still wait an month just out of an excess of caution. I haven't quite decided. I may change my mind by next weekend. (I have a bird that seems to be in love with the bird it sees in my side mirror. That love is messy, poor neurotic thing. )
 
UpNorth- Hey, follow-up my posts anytime :D



That's good info from David at Optimum, and when the manufacturer says "paintable", well, that's one very strong choice of words! I'm willing to take that at face value unless I somehow come to question the veracity of what he says (I have *no* reason to question it at this point, none at all).



Heh heh, just goes to show that terms like "wax" can cover a lot of ground..."paintable wax", who woulda thunk it :nixweiss



Now being me, I'll probably keep on using Meg's #5 on my repaints for the *next* 30-some years too, assuming I'm around that long :D But I'll start qualifying my advice about this topic based on the info you've provided. Thanks for posting it.
 
Accumulator said:
velobard- That's the thread I consider Gospel on this subject. A devil's advocate could suggest that the paint manufacturers are simply doing a CYA though, huh? Heh heh, I hate it when I can argue both sides of an argument! Somebody (like Sal, who could use it as marketing) oughta do a controlled experiment to settle it once and for all.
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Now cut that out! :p Hey, you're the one who has best detailed how you can detect outgassing and even paint behavior in the months following a repaint.



I strongly suspect that there are a couple of safe options, at least within a short period of time. We've heard from enough people who have paint that swirls if you look at it funny because it was waxed after a repaint so we know it can be a problem, but Zaino, FK1, and apparently Optimum claim to be safe. From my experience this past winter, I'm personally satisfied that 2180 is safe to use within a few weeks, but if anyone else wants to try it they're taking the risk on themselves. FK1 actually recommends using it within a few days to add protection, and apparently Sal has the same idea. I've never heard this about Optimum before. I have to wonder how ANY kind of protective layer can allow paint to bond properly to the surface.
 
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