Aquawax on one month old repaint?
- Thread starter Cassman
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
Cassman- That's interesting, but not I suppose surprising, about the Meg's Ultimate Detailer. I guess it's easy for them to say that, what with all the fresh-paint-friendly products that they do sell, but still I give them credit for saying a QD isn't suitable for this.
usdm- I've heard explanations similar to yours before, including "like goretex for paint". In the past I'd pretty much dismissed such claims (I even called the goretex one a "spurious ananalogy"), but the bit about Ford and Chrysler OKing the OW has me reconsidering my position. My dealings with AutoInt (who provide a lot of detailing/etc. chemicals to those two) have convinced me that Ford and Chrysler are pretty good about evaluating this sort of thing. So if they say a product is OK then that's good enough for me and maybe the "open enough for gases but still protective" explanation does have some validity after all. Next time I talk with Ron K. at AutoInt I'll try to remember to get his $0.02.
Not that I'll be retiring my Meg's #5 any time soon
velobard- Yeah, my "take home info" from your FK2180 experience was basically....uhm: glad it seemed to work for you, but no thanks
Now if AutoInt sells something that's supposed to be OK for this, I think I'd risk giving it a try. I'm just a little picky about which companies' claims I swallow hook, line, and sinker
usdm- I've heard explanations similar to yours before, including "like goretex for paint". In the past I'd pretty much dismissed such claims (I even called the goretex one a "spurious ananalogy"), but the bit about Ford and Chrysler OKing the OW has me reconsidering my position. My dealings with AutoInt (who provide a lot of detailing/etc. chemicals to those two) have convinced me that Ford and Chrysler are pretty good about evaluating this sort of thing. So if they say a product is OK then that's good enough for me and maybe the "open enough for gases but still protective" explanation does have some validity after all. Next time I talk with Ron K. at AutoInt I'll try to remember to get his $0.02.
Not that I'll be retiring my Meg's #5 any time soon
velobard- Yeah, my "take home info" from your FK2180 experience was basically....uhm: glad it seemed to work for you, but no thanks
Now if AutoInt sells something that's supposed to be OK for this, I think I'd risk giving it a try. I'm just a little picky about which companies' claims I swallow hook, line, and sinker I'm thinking that you shouldn't put any kinda chemicals on a newly painted surface on any type of car?. What if you just washed your car, would that be ok to do? and what if you NEVER wash or wax the newly painted area for atleast the "waiting period"?. what would happen to the newly painted area?. basically, what do I need to know in order to not mess up my car's newly painted area?
Accumulator
Well-known member
Johnold- Autopaint, even the cheapest repaint, isn't all *that* fragile. While it might be a bit soft for a while, the mild chemicals used in regular car shampoos, and in many other detailing products, won't hurt it a bit.
If you don't wash it, dirt might accumulate....that, IMO, is more likely to cause problems than some gentle washing and careful application of a repaint-friendly product.
But if you don't have to drive it, and can keep it in a clean, dry garage, then sure, don't touch it at all. That's what I've done with the Jag, it hasn't seen the light of day since its last paintwork (been in the shop for other stuff the whole time).
If you don't wash it, dirt might accumulate....that, IMO, is more likely to cause problems than some gentle washing and careful application of a repaint-friendly product.
But if you don't have to drive it, and can keep it in a clean, dry garage, then sure, don't touch it at all. That's what I've done with the Jag, it hasn't seen the light of day since its last paintwork (been in the shop for other stuff the whole time).
^SWEET^ thanks!. Cause I was worried that when after I end up getting my ding dent/chip repainted on my trunk lid of my new 07 car that someone did or maybe a rock from a weedwacker or lawnmower did to my trunk about 1 month ago:aww: -that i'd wanna know what to NOT do or what would be GOOD to do in order to keep the repainted area fresh and STRONG and healthy like the rest of the car's factory paint job.
I use Meguiars NXT soap or Duragloss soap with a wash mit and bucket. here's the damage.
...yeah, i've had my new car for about 2.5 to 3 months by now and this happened like 2 months after I bought it....sucks don't it?
I use Meguiars NXT soap or Duragloss soap with a wash mit and bucket. here's the damage.
...yeah, i've had my new car for about 2.5 to 3 months by now and this happened like 2 months after I bought it....sucks don't it?
That's a real bummer. Trust me, when it comes to bad luck of this nature I can definitely empathize. I've had more than my share this past year. For just a taste of part of what I've been through, picture hail damage 2 days after a full repaint due to damage from tree limbs that came down in an earlier storm. I could go on, but that gives you the idea.
I wonder on a scale from 1 through 10, how i'd like the end results of the repaint and fix after it's all done and said and I finally see it. Mainly asking cause of this such minor ding.
I'm going to use the shop that the HONDA dealership I bought the car from does work for.
they also do VW, BMW and Mercedes. Everytime I pass by I always see BMW's all over the place!. I figure 2 things.
1. if this place does higher end paint jobs I.E. BMW and Mercedes, that they can handle a HONDA paint job.
2. It's amazing how many BMW's I see there when I alway pass by when going to work in the morning.
I'm going to use the shop that the HONDA dealership I bought the car from does work for.
they also do VW, BMW and Mercedes. Everytime I pass by I always see BMW's all over the place!. I figure 2 things.
1. if this place does higher end paint jobs I.E. BMW and Mercedes, that they can handle a HONDA paint job.
2. It's amazing how many BMW's I see there when I alway pass by when going to work in the morning.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Johnold said:
That *does* suck. But IMO you gotta watch that the repair doesn't suck too, if only in a different way. Even after decades of messing around with this stuff, I don't always know which way to go on....on straight black I'd *consider* getting it fixed by a pro. On my silver S8, the first tossed-rock-damage was worse than that (hood, windhshield, trunk lid) and I let it go for fear of opening a can of worms that's bug me more than the "natural" damage; crappy repair work bugs me more than "oh well, that's life"-type imperfections.
I'd still be careful. A lot of shops that work on very expensive cars still do terrible work.
And even though I now have a *VERY* good painter, but I'd still think twice about getting it done, at least about having more than a small spot-repair.
So my advice is to check into getting it fixed and then *think* about it for a while. Jumping into a repair (and believe me, I know what it's like to get that first nasty flaw on a new car!) isn't likely to turn out well.
If it were mine, I'd get some rust converter (to use as primer on the bare metal), some touchup paint (IMO you oughta have some for emergencies anyhow- PaintScratch Touch-Up Paint (rs), Spray Cans, Spray Paint, Paint Pens, Car Paint, Automotive Paint has better stuff than the dealerships), and a small (maybe size 000 "triple-oh") artists brush. I'd touch it up as carefully as you can so it doesn't start to rust. I would *NOT* wetand/level/etc. it, just let it look imperfect...this is for functionality. THEN take your time finding somebody who'll do the job to *your* satisfaction.
Well HOPEFULLY they'll do a good job. I'll do a walk around and get a feel for this place that my HONDA dealership reccomends.
So to change the subject real quick. Yesterday I washed my car and found something on my hood up on the drivers side up towards the drivers side windshield wiper.
It's some kinda etching or something I have no idea, it's about the size of pinky nail and looks like a buncha cluster of cracks like a dessert ground that needs water
. I don't really know what it is or what it's called but I'll have to take pics of it sometime today or soon so I can show you guys cause now THAT is around and i'm just feeling:faint: . first this DAMN ding/chip, now this-whatever it is, "dry dessert cracking" on my hood.
So to change the subject real quick. Yesterday I washed my car and found something on my hood up on the drivers side up towards the drivers side windshield wiper.
It's some kinda etching or something I have no idea, it's about the size of pinky nail and looks like a buncha cluster of cracks like a dessert ground that needs water
. I don't really know what it is or what it's called but I'll have to take pics of it sometime today or soon so I can show you guys cause now THAT is around and i'm just feeling:faint: . first this DAMN ding/chip, now this-whatever it is, "dry dessert cracking" on my hood.Accumulator
Well-known member
johnold- It's with genuine sympathy and empathy that I say "welcome to the real world of brand new cars". I've tried *so* hard to keep some of mine in the best shape humanly possible (18K miles on my '85 Jag, 12K miles on my '01 S8...I drive beaters to preserve the good ones because I'm afraid [stuff] will happen) and the pampered garage queens still have still suffered some truly *hideous* damage that I can't fix and just have to live with 
Accumulator said:Cassman- That's interesting, but not I suppose surprising, about the Meg's Ultimate Detailer. I guess it's easy for them to say that, what with all the fresh-paint-friendly products that they do sell, but still I give them credit for saying a QD isn't suitable for this.
usdm- I've heard explanations similar to yours before, including "like goretex for paint". In the past I'd pretty much dismissed such claims (I even called the goretex one a "spurious ananalogy"), but the bit about Ford and Chrysler OKing the OW has me reconsidering my position. My dealings with AutoInt (who provide a lot of detailing/etc. chemicals to those two) have convinced me that Ford and Chrysler are pretty good about evaluating this sort of thing. So if they say a product is OK then that's good enough for me and maybe the "open enough for gases but still protective" explanation does have some validity after all. Next time I talk with Ron K. at AutoInt I'll try to remember to get his $0.02.
Not that I'll be retiring my Meg's #5 any time soon
velobard- Yeah, my "take home info" from your FK2180 experience was basically....uhm: glad it seemed to work for you, but no thanks
Accumulator, I think we are on similar tracks. I too am very paranoid about what I use, especially on a freshly painted car. With that siad, I have a lot of confidence in using FK1 or Optimum SW on freshly painted cars for one primary reason: water beading (yes I know it does not really mean anything, but in absence of any other means to verify safeness, I always defer to this). Using #16, Collinitie, KSG, #26, Nattys, and even Z2Pro, always seem to have very tight beading that lasts for a very long while. Fk1 and OSW on the other hand, do not have the same type of tight beading. That says to me that there definitly is a difference in the surface tension of a given panel when these products are applied, and hence maybe some validity to the claims made by OPT and FK1. Zaino, on the other hand, makes me a lil nervous so I dont use it cept on well cured paint.
ymmv.....
usdm said:
I don't know that I'd use this as a gauge, but I think of it this way. FK1 products can be layered almost immediately, allowing multiple layers to cure together. If a top layer of LSP can allow a previous level to cure then perhaps it makes a little sense how the paint would also be able to cure through the FK1. Is this line of thinking totally off base?