Anyone else have problems with new Hydro pads?

R

Rob_K

New member
Hello,



This is my first post and thought I would try to contribute something.



I have been through the archives searching for 3M product names and part numbers (been lurking for a while) but have only found either one or the other.



Here are the most popular according to the abrasive quality starting from the least to the most. Somebody has already

specified this order in the archives but left out the part numbers.



I hope this will make it easier for other people to find what they are looking for.



3M Perfect-It II Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirlmark Remover,

16 oz (39009)



3M Perfect-It III Machine Glaze 16 oz (05937)



3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material 16 oz (39003)



3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound 16 oz (39002)



And if you want to try...



3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax 10.5 oz (39526)



3M Perfect-It Gloss Enhancer Gallon (39834)



I would appreciate some comments on the last two items. Since I live in Canada, shipping and exchange for the products you guys uses is robbery. I have ordered Paste Glaz from Pinnacle (2 for $50) and also Top of the Line (Paint Sealant, good product but smells) but the prices are killing me.



So, if I have to live with a comprimise, I might as well use what is avalible here (unfortunately).



Cheers,



Rob
 
I have have used the 3M Perfect It Show Car Paste wax. It gives a good shine and fill in some swirls and scratches. Then downside is that it does not last long at all. I found that the wax was gone after about 2 weeks.
 
Just finished up a round of SIP on my truck using the new cyan hydro pad on my Flex. I was really impressed with the cut/finish of this pad. I'd say it cuts like a yellow or maybe better, but finishes down as well as an orange. Unfortunately, the velcro came 2/3 of the way off the pad about the time I was finishing up the last panel :mad: This was the first use of that pad. I rinsed it off with water probably 3-4 times to remove accumulating polish, but that's it. Anyone else have any similar experiences?
 
Closed cell pads such as the Cyan and Tangerine (as well as the White and Meguiar's Maroon) tend to hold water for a long time! If you are going to use them on any type of orbital polisher they need to be completely dry before using them. It isn't really a problem on a rotary.

What happens with a spinning orbital polisher is that the pad is quickly moving and changing directions, like the 'Scrambler' ride at the county fair. This internal flexing and twisting of the pad why the pad/backing plate gets warm or hot on an orbital and remains cool on a rotary. (consequently most of the heat with a rotary is transfered to the outer edge of the pad, away from the backing plate).

Because closed cell (non-reticulated) pads hold water and pressure is used to apply polishes with an orbital, mostuire will work its way up to the backing plate area. The heat created by the polishing process will then begin to 'steam' the glue that holds Velcro to the foam.

If you are going to use these pads on any type machine with an orbital motion make sure they are completely dry.
 
Guys, as Angelo stated, we will take care of any pads you may have problems with. We will need the "bad" pads back so we can send them to LC and they can look into what the problem may be. We have been playing with these pads for some time now and have not seen evidence of failures. Call Angelo on Monday to arrange replacement.

Has anyone else experienced any issues with these pads?

jk
 
I can tell you first hand that PAC stands behind everything that they sell. They replaced a few items for me no questions asked. That is customer service.
 
I was using SIP and a Flex, with moderate pressure. I wonder if the sticky polish with the Flex's forced, jerky motion could have been more abusive than usual on the pad. It's not like one failed pad is really a big deal, but I hope its taken into account into the next design.
 
Hydro Pads

Hey Everyone, I have been reading this thread and wanted to shed some light on the subject. First off, what Todd said is true, these pads hold water so should be completely dry. Second, when using a rotary, heat is transferred downward onto the surface. When using a DA type tool, heat is transferred upwards towards the backing plate. When more pressure is used, the heat, pressure, scrambler action of the machine, causes the glue to soften. When it is soft, and then being twisted under pressure, it may loose its bond at the weakest point. I hope this helps and makes some sense.

Eric
 
Eric, Thanks for your input. What is the fastest/safest way to dry these pads? I usually place a fan/air mover in front of them for 12 hours and keep them out till I use them again, but that does not seem to be enough.

Is placing them in a dryer with low or no heat not recommended at all?

TIA!
 
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