845 vs. FK1000P vs. ? for DD?

D

DatacomGuy

New member
Both vehicles are dark (Dark blue, and dark gray), and both are daily drivers (in Atlanta) and both are parked outside.



I need a LSP for my situation. Will follow M205/EZ-Creme Glaze. Needs to be ultra durable, yet as glossy as possible. I've been eyeing 845 and FK1000P. Perhaps Mother's 100% carnauba..



Thoughts? And/or recommendations for any others that may apply?
 
DatacomGuy said:
Both vehicles are dark (Dark blue, and dark gray), and both are daily drivers (in Atlanta) and both are parked outside.



I need a LSP for my situation. Will follow M205/EZ-Creme Glaze. Needs to be ultra durable, yet as glossy as possible. I've been eyeing 845 and FK1000P. Perhaps Mother's 100% carnauba..



Thoughts? And/or recommendations for any others that may apply?
Click to expand...



These are just my personal observations:



Mothers is the glossiest out of the lot, but it also has the shortest lifespan. It also does not release dirt the quickest with inital rinsing. It does, however also offer the best hiding ability when dealing with light scratches that are bound to occur eventually when washing or dry the car. The best on reds and dark colors, but does mute metallics a bit more. than the other 2. Worst protection against enviromental and industrial fallouts) Most available at OTC stores and online



845 is the middleground in terms of gloss, durability, and releaseing of initial dirt during the rinse. It hides ok, but not as good as Mothers. Slightly mutes metallics, but leaves a nice looking finish that has some pop. Decent protection against enviromental fallout- better protection against industrial fallout. Primarily available online, but some select OTC stores may carry it



1000p had better anti-static properties and rinses very clean before even doing a wash, but is very sterile looking; whatever the paint looks like after you polish and glaxe is pretty much what it will look like after 1000p. It also happened to be the slickest feeling of the 3, which probably explains why it releases loose dirt and dust so well. Slightly longer durablilty than 845, but not by much. Hiding of light scratches is the worst of the 3, however it can improve with multiple applications (can layered same day, but 2-3 applications is pretty much the limit for the most part). Provides the best protection against both enviromental and industrial fallout.

Available online only.
 
usdm said:
These are just my personal observations:



Mothers is the glossiest out of the lot, but it also has the shortest lifespan. It also does not release dirt the quickest with inital rinsing. It does, however also offer the best hiding ability when dealing with light scratches that are bound to occur eventually when washing or dry the car. The best on reds and dark colors, but does mute metallics a bit more. than the other 2. Worst protection against enviromental and industrial fallouts) Most available at OTC stores and online



845 is the middleground in terms of gloss, durability, and releaseing of initial dirt during the rinse. It hides ok, but not as good as Mothers. Slightly mutes metallics, but leaves a nice looking finish that has some pop. Decent protection against enviromental fallout- better protection against industrial fallout. Primarily available online, but some select OTC stores may carry it



1000p had better anti-static properties and rinses very clean before even doing a wash, but is very sterile looking; whatever the paint looks like after you polish and glaxe is pretty much what it will look like after 1000p. It also happened to be the slickest feeling of the 3, which probably explains why it releases loose dirt and dust so well. Slightly longer durablilty than 845, but not by much. Hiding of light scratches is the worst of the 3, however it can improve with multiple applications (can layered same day, but 2-3 applications is pretty much the limit for the most part). Provides the best protection against both enviromental and industrial fallout.

Available online only.
Click to expand...



Awesome reply... Thank you very much. Going by this, i'm leaning towards 845.
 
845 is probably the easiest to use. I'd be so happy if there was a liquid version of FK1000P, but there isn't. IMO, its a bit of a bear to work with, but the results are worth it. I wouldn't go so far as to say FK1000P looks sterile either, glassy, yes, but not sterile. If you want sterile, KSG is the king.
 
DatacomGuy- The looks are so subjective that I won't really get into that, other than to say that if somebody's vehicle doesn't look swell it won't be because they chose one of those over the others.



I've used 845 and FK1000P for years. I curently use 845 on one of my vehicles my dark blue-gray beater-Audi) and FK1000P on a few others. *GENERALLY* speaking, I prefer FK1000P. I use the 845 on the Audi because a) I want simple-as-can-be for that car and b) the 845 is more forgiving of its flaws than FK1000P would be. But I use FK1000P on my pewter beater-Tahoe and simply love it on that despite that vehicle's paint flaws.



I find that 845's durability can be oddly variable. On some vehicles it lasts a long, long time, but on others it doesn't. And ONR seems to kill it in a downright astounding way. On my Audi it lasts pretty long, but it's nothing astounding and I have to redo it more often than I'd like.



FK1000P, with two coats applied a week or more apart, lasts for a very long time on everything. Simply amazing in most cases. Even when 845 is proving durable, FK1000P outlasts it by many months IME. It also protects better against bird bombs, which can sometimes etch through 845. On the Tahoe, I do one coat, wait a few weeks until the next wash and then do another, and then I just wash it for months on end.



Eh, there are lots of variables that could explain the durability diff (including that perhaps FK1000P is more shampoo-resistant).
 
Accum, how would you compare application and removal of FK100P as compared to the Collinite? DO you have to mist the FK100P for easier removal or does it come off like butter?
 
I just added 845 to a brand new, dark grey Dodge Grand Caravan. The gloss is great and I'm looking forward to see how well dirt washes off. I will monitor the durability.
 
RZJZA80 said:
Accum, how would you compare application and removal of FK100P as compared to the Collinite? DO you have to mist the FK100P for easier removal or does it come off like butter?
Click to expand...



I'm the wrong guy to ask. For some reason I hardly *EVER* find my LSPs hard to use. No idea why but that's how it works.



OK, 845 is easier, but not all *that* much easier IMO, not enough to really matter. You can have to work a bit with it too, not that "like butter"-easy the way some products are.



But no, I don't have to mist FK1000P with anything...BUT I do *always* fog the surface with my breath when I buff off LSPs. I fog the surface and then buff. If I'm machine-buffing with MF bonnets I'll let the MF bonnet get most of the LSP residue off, but then I still fog the panel and give it a final buff by hand.



Heh heh, gee...wonder if that "fogging with my breath" is why I always find LSPs so easy to buff off :idea
 
Dan said:
845 is probably the easiest to use. I'd be so happy if there was a liquid version of FK1000P, but there isn't. IMO, its a bit of a bear to work with, but the results are worth it. I wouldn't go so far as to say FK1000P looks sterile either, glassy, yes, but not sterile. If you want sterile, KSG is the king.
Click to expand...





They do make a 1000L, I've never tried it. Look on the Finish Kare website.



Cheers,

GREG
 
Dan said:
845 is probably the easiest to use. I'd be so happy if there was a liquid version of FK1000P, but there isn't. IMO, its a bit of a bear to work with, but the results are worth it. I wouldn't go so far as to say FK1000P looks sterile either, glassy, yes, but not sterile. If you want sterile, KSG is the king.
Click to expand...



Funny, I found that 1000p was a bit easier to use than 845 initially. But once I got the hang of 845, there really was not any difference in the ease of use between the two.
 
I have to agree with Dan on the application of FK1000P. It is not the easiest to apply and remove (compared to some of my other favorite LSP's) for two reasons IMO/IME:



1) It can dry quite hard. Thin coats are key with many products but especially with this one. Any excess can have the tendency of drying rock hard and can be a bit of a pain to remove. In those scenarios I used FK425 to lightly mist the affected area and it came off without further issue.



2) Partly because of the above point but mainly because the product dries white, I find that I need to be especially careful around certain trim (i.e. textured), crevices, between body panels, emblems, decals, etc. Basically, anywhere the product can get "stuck" I will end up with white residue that takes me additional time and effort to remove.



Personally, ease of use is a key characteristic in the LSP's that I use. ....ones that can be used on most/all surfaces without a problem and apply/remove easily. Having said that, I still recommend and use (in some cases) FK1000P simply because there are other traits in this product that (I believe) make it worth considering (i.e. resilience, durability, ability to shed contamination, etc.).



I also agree with Accumulator about the 2nd coat. In my own limited experience I did find increased durability with panels I applied 2 coats vs. 1. I also believe FK1000P is still one of the best products I have ever used when it comes to releasing contamination. I would say it is on par if not (dare I say it) better than Opti-Coat. ....at least as I have experienced on our daily driver. I know there are a lot of variables involved but I simply didn't find the level of bonded contamination on the finish when I was using FK1000P as I do using Opti-Coat. .....but again, there is nothing conclusive to be taken from this limited experience/comparison I have had with both products on this particular application.
 
DatacomGuy said:
Both vehicles are dark (Dark blue, and dark gray), and both are daily drivers (in Atlanta) and both are parked outside.



I need a LSP for my situation. Will follow M205/EZ-Creme Glaze. Needs to be ultra durable, yet as glossy as possible. I've been eyeing 845 and FK1000P. Perhaps Mother's 100% carnauba..



Thoughts? And/or recommendations for any others that may apply?
Click to expand...



My thoughts are



1.) Dont use the EZ-Creme Glaze, apply the product you select directly to the paint for a better bond and longer protection.



2.) Use FK1000p. I wasnt impressed with the durability of 845. It started beading poorly at 8 weeks. FK1000p w/ 2 coats lasts me 4-6 months.
 
usdm said:
Funny, I found that 1000p was a bit easier to use than 845 initially. But once I got the hang of 845, there really was not any difference in the ease of use between the two.
Click to expand...



Do you apply 1000p dry? I find I either need to load up the pad or moisten it, otherwise it just does not go on as easily. Then if you overload the pad, you are in for a treat when it comes to removing it. 845 glides on and wipes off very easily for me. 1000P just acts like the hard paste wax it really is.
 
The two different tins of FK1000P I've had were very different; the second/latest one was a lot less dry and a lot easier to work but it was still a "hard wax". Yeah, you can use FK425 to ease things along and I've even dampened the applicator with FK425 and it worked fine (didn't compromise durability the way I thought it might).



Yeah, the FK1000P residue can be a bit of a hassle, so be sure you buff it all off (heh heh, in other words, do it right ;) ). Be careful around things like PPF edges and badging, and be sure to W-O-W-O if you try using it on trim (works for me, but "don't try this at home, kids!").



On the FK1000P vs. OptiCoat comparison, I've gone from FK1000P x many to OptiCoat on the Tahoe's wheels. No comparison at all after the first few months, the coating has stayed just like new well past the point where the FK1000P would start to drop off. FK1000P might be my choice for the best thing this side of OptiCoat, but that's as far as I can go.
 
Dan said:
Do you apply 1000p dry? I find I either need to load up the pad or moisten it, otherwise it just does not go on as easily. Then if you overload the pad, you are in for a treat when it comes to removing it. 845 glides on and wipes off very easily for me. 1000P just acts like the hard paste wax it really is.
Click to expand...



During the cooler/ milder seasons, I usually applied it dry, and then wipe off the panel aftr application. If the weather is very hot or Im am working out side in sun, I spray some final inspection or maybe some 425 on the pad before application. If I was going to layer something on it like pink wax, I lay it down dry, spray some 425 on the pad, apply the pink, then and then remove all together. All in all, never had a really bad time with this unlike my tries with m16, or collonite 476 (which are my replacements for those that want the "durable" paste wax thing)



Truth be told though, as much as I liked using it, ordering from Finish Kare was a lil bit of a hassle, and shipping was pretty steep. So once I used up my tins, I just stopped ordering it. Now the only thing I have is the pink wax (which incidentally works real nice with wet glaze was well).
 
Well, dammit. Wish I came back here and read the rest of the replies.



I ordered the 845, it'll be here tomorrow. I guess we'll see how it does and if it sucks, i'll switch. Durability is key for me here.
 
I use 845 and am very happy with it. I do keep my car in a garage, and wax it every three months. Even on the third month, the water bead is great. Here is a write from Collinte's web site about the different waxes.



2. What’s the difference between the auto waxes; No. 845 Insulator Wax, No. 476s Super Double Coat and the No. 915 Marque D’ Elegance?



All 3 last step waxes serve the same function: to provide a high gloss carnauba shine and lasting protection. All 3 contain copious amounts of wax-both rare Brazilian carnauba and premium synthetic polymers. However, their degree of durability, ease of use, and warmth of shine vary. Think of it this way;



1. No.476s – most durable protection/weather defense. Most elbow grease required during application.



2. No. 915- 2nd most durable and slightly easier than the 476s to apply/remove. No. 915 lends our warmest shine to dark tones like navy and black due to its highest concentration of rare carnauba.



3. No. 845- easiest of the 3 to apply/remove with slightly less durability than the No. 915.
 
Thanks for the input guys, I guess I have a really hard tin of it. I think M16 is easier to work with, especially going on, though I think M16 is like cement if you apply it too thick. FK1000P is a bit more forgiving of over application.
 
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