845 vs. FK1000P vs. ? for DD?

[extrabolts]

I live in that area and did a test between these waxes outside - might be helpful





http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...st-845-v-476s-v-fk1000p-1-coat-v-2-coats.html

 

[imported_detail1]

I think that M16 is much easier to use than FK1000p. - The one and only time that i used FK1000p, I definitely used too much and it was very difficult removing it. This was on a white car and i thought i had removed all of it but when i saw the car under better lighting, there were streaks of residue everywhere. I have not used it since but i will give it another try in preparation for the winter. Just apply it very thinly and don't let it dry- do 1 body panel at a time.



845 is a breeze to use- slick & smooth as butter- wipe on & wipe off.



U will have to experiment & see which u like better- it all depends on the ease of application, durability, type of luster, etc.

 

[Accumulator]

Interesting that so many people are saying M16 is easy to use. Yeah, I think so too (love it by machine!) but historically it's had a rep for being a real PIA. And it *can* be that way if you put it on too thick or miss a spot and try to buff it off a few days later (and after a few weeks it's even more fun ).



detail1- I really would let the FK1000P dry before you buff it off. I W-O-W-O when using it on trim or when I'm *really* worried about residue, and it doesn't seem to last quite as long that way.

 

[Kean]

The two different tins of FK1000P I've had were very different; the second/latest one was a lot less dry and a lot easier to work but it was still a "hard wax". Yeah, you can use FK425 to ease things along and I've even dampened the applicator with FK425 and it worked fine (didn't compromise durability the way I thought it might).



Yeah, the FK1000P residue can be a bit of a hassle, so be sure you buff it all off (heh heh, in other words, do it right ). Be careful around things like PPF edges and badging, and be sure to W-O-W-O if you try using it on trim (works for me, but "don't try this at home, kids!").



On the FK1000P vs. OptiCoat comparison, I've gone from FK1000P x many to OptiCoat on the Tahoe's wheels. No comparison at all after the first few months, the coating has stayed just like new well past the point where the FK1000P would start to drop off. FK1000P might be my choice for the best thing this side of OptiCoat, but that's as far as I can go.

....interesting point about the variance between the two tins of product that you experienced. I still have my original (and only) one. Maybe that is part of my problem in regard to application/removal. I did notice the first time I used it that it took a more effort to get the product into a workable state (I guess you could say it was relativel dry or hard).



Regarding the OC comparison, I hope I didnt give the wrong impression. OC can't be beat (in comparison of the two) with regard to how long the product retains its characteristics. My remarks were just based off of my own limited observations regarding bonded contamination (or lack therof) with a "working" FK1000p layer. .....a lot of variables could have been at work however so Im not drawing any conclusions. Im quite happy with OC's performance on the wifes car and everywhere else I've used it.

 

[usdm]

M16 has never been easy for me to apply or remove, Once I got the polishing pal, I ws able to apply a more even and lighter coat, and that made removal much easier. The containers that 476, pink wax, and m16 come in are pains in the but, so Im going to be looking to get better contaners for transfer.



And maybe along the way, I might do a few franken-waxes....

 

[Accumulator]

kean- You have more experience with the OptiCoat than I do, guess I didn't give that adequate consideration before I posted. I really do need to try doing a whole vehicle with that stuff some day.