303 observations from a BMDP fan.

Y

YoSteve

New member
So I went to the dressing review section to look for a review on Black Magic Dashboard Protectant Semi-gloss, and there was none to be found.



If there ever was a unknown breakthrough product this is it.



As some of you may know, I'm a completely huge fan of BMDP, especially on the black matte VW rough finish on my dashboard. I have used it successfully for over 3 years with no problems and it has lived up to it's expectations. (I've seen my exact dash with no product or some Armour All type product and there's no comparison)





Yesterdays experience with 303 was not what I expected (based upon personal tastes). The application was similar to any dash type product. I used microfiber covered sponge (no lint is the best) and applied as I normally would. It applied well seemed to do a good job.

One thing you had to make sure is not to make any drips dry, otherwise it would leave a spot (not something I ever recall doing wrong with BMDP). But I never did really pay attention.



So the next day I look at my dash and plastic and it seems too shiny for me. Granted a huge amount of people are fans of this product and it's probably because they like the level of shine on this product. Which compartively to most of dash stuff out there isn't a lot. But I do prefer the lower gloss of the BMDP.



Now someone commented before that they tried BMDP and said it looked like there was nothing on there. I think that's a good thing. Like I said, I've seen a "naked" dashboard and it doesn't look like a dash that's been treated with BMDP. It looks healthier, blacker and richer. But what it doesn't look is shinier. And that's why I like the product.



303 while healthier, blacker and richer, it also looked shinier and I did not prefer it. I felt like everything was sticky (even though it didn't feel like it)



Finally, I did find that shinier made lint from the air more noticable and if you missed any spots there was a more noticable missing spot. There was also a difference in shine in different type of plastic surfaces and I absolutely dislike that the most. I know my door panel is different from my dashboard is different from my steering wheel is different from my knobs and levers and they now all have varying degrees of shine. Big no no in my dept :nono



So you decide, if you are completely happy with 303 an have never tried anything else or are one of those people that never want to change, then that is fine. But if you think it's tad bit pricey (BMDP is like $3 locally), or if it is a tad bit shiny, or if you disimilar plastics do not match in shine, then definatly give Black Magic Dashboard protectant a try. You won't be disappointed.



I will see what happens in the next few days, maybe it'll tone down. I might even buff it. But for supposedly the best product out there at this price. No thanks.



BTW, thanks tacscar for the donation of the product, I really appreciate it.



Here's a link at Autobarn, but you can probably find it locally, or pick it up when you're ordering other stuff
 
YoSteve said:
I might even buff it.
Click to expand...

303 is not an apply and let dry product. It definitely needs to be buffed after it is put on a surface. This is particularly true of exterior use.

The 303 tech people told me that the more you buff it, the better it works.

While I don't think 303 is "shiny", I do think it is pricey. :)



Charles
 
Wipe on, wipe off... BTW if you think 303 is glossy you should see some of the stuff I've tried in the past...blinding :cool: I prefer 303 at the moment since its not too matte and not too glossy.
 
I was using 303 but recently ordered and used a bottle of Poorboys Natural Look. I now have a new favorite. Medium gloss, nice look, non-greasy. I apply by spraying it on a cheap mf and wiping the dash, seats etc. Lasts about the same as 303 and a better look...imo. I also am using it on the tires now.
 
I do not buff 303 on my tires as I apply a topper to them anyway. The interior I do buff out as others do for a smoother and more consistent finish.



I am going to try to buff just half on my 303 treated Tonneau cover on the bed and see how the 303 fairs over time. Now if the rain would just stop for a day or two.
 
That's odd, I use 303 on my matte black Passat dash as well and get nothing close to shiney results. Looks as matte black as it did the first day. If you didn't buff the 303 off, then that might be the reason you got a shiney surface.



The only gripes I have with 303 are the price and the fact that you need to pay attention to even application and buffing, else you can get a spotty appearance.



That said, I will continue to use 303 on my dash for its matte finish and UV protectants, but use other dressings for the rest of my interior and other trim. The BMDP sounds interesting and might be worth a look for me.



Michael
 
With the several comments about not buffing off 303, it seems like posting at least part of the info I received from 303 might be of some benefit.



From 303:

"Some spray 303 on a cloth and wipe it on and, seeing 303's terrific cosmetics, leave it. Others use the same cloth in wiping a large area and end up not drying, but leaving the treated surface damp with 303. One cannot completely dry a treated area by finishing with a cloth damp with 303. At some point one has

to turn the cloth over to a dry area to finish the drying or go to a

second dry cloth to finish the drying. This is similar to cleaning your glasses, you can't get the job done with a damp cloth, you have to turn it over to a dry area. By the way, 303 A. Protectant will NOT air dry.



These folks leave unabsorbed, un-bonded excess 303 polymer on the surface. This excess polymer after the water evaporates out retains a dampness. Though the treated surface may look great, it has little repellency and dust will stick to it. And when it rains this "washes off" and will streak surfaces below. Typically where 303 receives the most calls about this has to do with tonneau covers.



If the product is applied according to directions, sprayed on and wiped completely dry, it leaves a super repellent finish (to dirt, dust, tree sap, bird droppings) and LASTS LONGER. It will NOT wash off onto other surfaces.

Anyone can easily see this for themselves by treating a piece of vinyl, formica, stainless steel sink, gelcoat fiberglass, the EPDM rubber seals used on car doors and trunks, etc.



FYI, a little extra enthusiasm in the drying/buffing of the treated

surface with a DRY cloth causes the surface to become even more repellent and to last even longer.



Here's a link to more info about the vinyl application, once here click on and read the "blue" brochure. For even more information on vinyl, click on and read Tech Facts Vol. II - Vinyl (same page):

www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=techfacts



Tires....tires are more absorbent, application a little different. On

the above link, click on and read: Tech Facts Vol. 1 - Why Are Tires Black?.

At the bottom of this volume, you'll find Tips For Tires, goes into

proper application for treating tires to protectant against warranty sidewall failure, for maximum and longest lasting cosmetic effects."



Hopefully this can be of some help.



Charles:wavey
 
Has anybody tried Poorboy's Natural Look? I am curious to know how it compares to 303, and if it is easier? I haven't had a major problem with streaking but sometimes I do and have to reapply (and as mentioned it is more expensive as well)
 
I'm like YoSteve and absolutely hate shiny dashboards. The way most dashboards in German cars are designed with textured matte plastic has to do with not only the looks but also driver safety as this arrangement eliminates glare almost completely.



I think application procedure has a lot to do with how 303 will look afterward. If you leave it unbuffed it will look shiny IMO. To prevent that I always follow my tested application procedure. To apply I use foam applicator as I feel it distributes the product more evenly and releases it easier than MF applicator. I usually have the applicator slightly damp with water and spray 303 on it, never directly on a surface. After I let it sit on the surface a few minutes I buff it with damp MF towel and then let it dry. Using slightly damp towel prevents any streaking and results in matte look, very close to factory one. I use 303 not only on vinyl but also on leather and I'm very happy with how it performs.



One thing that keeps me from trying other products like BMDP or Einszett Cockpit Premium is lack of information on UV protection they offer. If you know more about these products, let me know.
 
F1, not sure of what kind of UV protection scientific data you are looking for, but accordiing to the bottle and their website, it's all over UV. I figured it was just an ingredient that it's based upon (the ingredient that they probably all have in common).



Anyways, buffing seems like twice the work to me, but you are correct I should have used a sponge applicator. I usually do with BMDP anyways. The trick with BMDP is that you just paint on like you would paint (pretty wet) and it dries perfectly even perfectly non-glossy yet richer. And yeah for $3-4, you can't beat it.



It's not so much the dash I don't mind not wanting to buff, though, it's all the little areas (the plastic arms for cruise and windshield washer, the plastic buttons on the center console, the plastic seat belt bulkles). I wouldn't prefer to buff that stuff.
 
Just so there is no misunderstanding.

I'm not promoting 303 in any way. I just felt that if people were going to use it, they should use it the correct way.

As with polishes, SMR's, waxes, sealants, QD's. there are lots of good ones out there. Everyone should make their own decisions and use what works for them.



Charles:wavey
 
IMO ALL dressings used for "UV protection" should be buffed dry. The buffing action sets the resins in the product and helps it last longer and do it's job better.



If you don't buff the product, the resins never set. Which means it does not last very long.
 
Steve, it's more like wiping than buffing, not really that big of a deal. 303 lasts a long time, even with weekly wiping. How is longevity for BMDP? I may give it a try if I can find it locally.

I'll check their website for more info on UV protection.
 
I love the fact that 303 has UV protection and does not produce a high gloss when applied and wiped off. Used it on all dash and trim area on my SC430. COvered all rubber gaskets and even in the engine bay as well.



I even get the creeper out and treat the lower undercarriage with it on all rubber/urethane under the SC430 to protect them as well.



If it's rubber or vinyl, I get the 303 out!



Regards,

Deanski
 
HI all :wavey im new here and learning a great deal. you all seem like a great bunch of people. steve after reading this thread i ran out and got the BMDP wipes for my 2003 mustang. it was just what i wanted, great smell ,matte finish, ugh to think of all the armorall i went thru in the 80's . thanks again for all the tips .i can see i am becoming hoplessly addicted and i love it
 
roadchief, coolness. good job in getting off Armor All



LC, I don't understand how not buffing it will cause it not to set and therefore not last as long.



An update: The shine has settled down :up and that's good. There a few spots where I wasn't to perfect in application and I can see the spots missing, but they're not nearly as noticeable as in day 1. And I do not have the, "I don't want to touch any sticky mess" feeling any longer. One thing I do notice is that, yes different types of vinyl and plastic respond differently to this product (so far) and so that's what's keeping my from condoning it fully. BMDP shows less shine and so this isn't an issue. Not saying it's better just not an issue and one of which I don't prefer.
 
Steve, thanks for the review. I remember you've been a fan of this stuff of years now! I never got around to trying it cuz I have too much 303 and a few other dressings.



This BMDP sounds like a real winner, but I wonder if you'd get similar results with 303 if you were to just dilute it with water? Aren't all these water-based dressings basically the same type of PDMS resin...differing only in percentage of resin?



As for the buffing of the product, I thought that was a normal part of applying dressing to plastic, vinyl and tires?
 
It is easy to make any interior dressing low in gloss ¡V water, water-soluble oil, anything that¡Â¦s milky white, and fragrance mixed in the right amount can fool most people into thinking it¡Â¦s a quality PDMS dressing. I don¡Â¦t have the MSDS of BM, so I have no idea if it really contains the protection it claims. 303, on the other hand, is popular and has a reputation for quite some time. I am more confident in saying 303 has protection, than saying BM has protection. If I¡Â¦m not mistaken, BM doesn¡Â¦t work at all for exterior trim and tires... just like water.



On the other hand, I have stopped using interior protectants for quite some time now. I know this seems contradictory to what I just said, but my cars are garaged, and I don¡Â¦t think 303¡Â¦s proven protection will prevent my dash from cracking any time soon. So if you trust BM or don¡Â¦t care about protection (like me), and love the look of BM, it¡Â¦s great stuff!



Just my digressing two cents...
 
Steve,



The friction (and heat) from the "buffing" sets the resins. It also removes the carrier for those resins
 
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