1) To cut imperfections, start with moderate to heavy pressure (compress the pad to about 1/2 or 2/3 original thickness. As your progress, lighten up the pressure until the pass just before the wipe off, which should be with no added weight at all, just the weight of the PC. Start at #4 and as pressure is reduced, increase the speed so you are at or near # 6 just before the wipe off.
2) do your polishing in a crosshatch pattern - lets say you are standing in the middle of the front bumber doing a portion of the hood. First go back and forth beteen the front and rear bumpers and cover the area at least twice. Then change directions so are ar right angle, back and forth between the doors, again at least twice. Lighten the spressure a little and change directions again, passenger front door to driver rear door. Lighten up a little more and this time in the direction of driver doo and passenger rear door. Finally the last pass should be "in the direction the wind travels over the car" - in this case, between the bumpers and with just the weight of the polisher.
3) Wipe of any wet or powdered residue with a MF and here is the biggie - check you work, looking for residual or unremoved blemishes. The 1Z polishes use oils & perhaps fillers, so to be able to see blemishes, you may need to wipe down with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water to remove them.
4) When there are only the micro-marring induced by the 1Z UP, proceed to the next section of the vehicle. You may not be able to remove the deepest scratches - but that is a judgement call as to whether you can live with them or want to try some more. Then redo the entire car, with just a polish pad and the 1Z PP. Same method as before.
5) You can stop when your eyes are blinded by the shine. If you have any 1Z MP or Menzerna FP do the vehicle one more time with a finishing pad, not to cut any imperfections, but to burnish the paint to its highest possible gloss before adding any finish. Same patterns as described above. Here you can stop when your eyes start to bleed or you are blinded by the tears from the reflected light. Final wipe down with the 50/50 mix described.
A brilliant look is not in the finish products used but in the paint preparation BEFORE the finish. Take your time and do it well. Most likely not all of your vehicle will require the 1Z UP - be conservative and only use it where really necessary. Always, always err on the side of caution - that means only use the minimum amount of aggression (pressure and polish and pad choice) necessary to remove the blemishes - anything more will remove clearcoat used to protect your paint. Unless you are trying to minimized OP, but that is a whole other story.
since it oughta stay wet for a long time (if it doesn't, slow the PC down). But don't work it *too* long without adding more product. You do *not* work it so long that it turns to powder (which it won't really do anyhow). Be willing to say "good enough" when it comes to severe marring, you don't want to take off *too* much clear.