106FA or M205 for 1-step?

TOGWT said:
[Here is how I do it, select the best pad and apply PO203 with a rotary until it begins to break down. Switch to a dual action polish and a polishing/finishing pad and buff the residue until it is completely broken down.]

Interesting, as I would have thought a rotary would provide more friction and be able to breakdown the abrasives more efficiently than an orbital.

Not trying to argue / disagree as sometimes practical application contradicts theory, even so I would appreciate the reasoning behind this method
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I am using the method with a rotary, and therfore I can polish and finish in one "polish cycle" so to speak.

Check out this link for some pictures: http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=2129&highlight=yaris
 
It's the switch from rotary to orbital 'mid polish' that got my attention
 
porta said:
Todd must reply on that one, since I am using a rotary all the way.
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Maybe I should call it Todd's Porta.. although that sounds slightly weird considering we are both married with children... hmmmmmm.

My reasoning is this...

When you polish you are always leaving some pattern of scratching behind, its the nature of rubbing abrasive material across the paint. If these scratches are visible to the human eye then we can see some level of marring. If these scratches are arranged in a repeatable pattern, such as the direct drive, repeating rotation, of a rotary then we may see marring in the forum of ultra fine hologramming.

When we take this repeated pattern of marring and re-arrange it so that it is no longer linear but scrambled, such as a DA polisher, we may not see it. This is why a DA has been used to remove holograms with the same polish. The marring still exists, but is invisible. We have all seen holograms so fine that you cannot, even in direct sunlight, see the actual swirl pattern, but rather feint whisper lines across the paint. Use a DA with the same polish (on most paints) and you are left with a high gloss, hologram and swirl free finish.

Granted we are not talking about a perfectly jeweled finish here, but a one step.

Thus step one (rotary/meduim pad/polish half way) is used because the rotary will produce more cutting power during the first half of the cycle (most paint correct occurs in the first 15 seconds anyways) but will likely leave some marring behind.

Switching to a DA while the polish still has a little bite will ensure that the polishing action removes the repeated pattern of marring and thus creates a finish that is truly hologram free. We are talking about near 2 two step results from 1 step, but in the end it is still a 1 step. I personally believe that PO203 is very prone to filling on some paints and it helps ensure that no holograms ever show back up.
 
th0001 said:
If these scratches are arranged in a repeatable pattern, such as the direct drive, repeating rotation, of a rotary then we may see marring in the forum of ultra fine hologramming.
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Could the Flex 3401 produce this?
 
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