106FA or M205 for 1-step?

TOGWT & gmblack3:

Thanks for your inputs.

TOGWT, when you say Menz is harder to break down using PC, does this mean it will take me longer, than say, a rotary?
I am also practicing on a Makita, so I may have to use that instead.

So, here's my plan:

Per Angelo's suggestion - I will try 106FA/white then follow with PO85RD/black

If the 106FA/white isn't enough, I go for the P203s/white, correct?
Or, per TOGWT, I can go further with P203s/orange, correct?

Just making sure I am understanding the proper approach. :smile:

Thanks again.
 
If you're looking for just a 1-step then I would go with either P203 or M205 and base pad selection on the condition of the paint and hardness. "test spot"

In terms of cut I would rank them in order from most to least aggressive and all of them should finish down to an acceptable "1-step" finish.

P203>M205>106ff....though technically you could work M205 longer which may yield more cut. I prefer to use M205 simply because the working time is less.
 
I used 205 with an orange pad on my new black mercedes with good results. I used as a one step. It may have been benefical to follow with a black pad, but I didn't. I can find no maring and the gloss is really good. As happy as I was I still want to use menzerna products next time.
 
Well, have yet to try M205.
I presently have P203/106FA/P085RD.

Thanks RaskyR1. I will try 106FA on a test spot, and move up to 203 if need be.

Been reading a lot of good stuff on M205, wanted to try it though but Megs don't give out samples. Next time, hopefully.
 
Flash Gordon said:
I use po85rd with a black pad on my 1-step black autos. This removes 80% of defects, thats about all you can expect out of a 1 step process :soldier:
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Thanks Flash. I've never thought of starting with a black pad. I've thought because the black pad has no cut, it's kinda pointless to tackle minor swirls.
Will definitely try 85rd/black, and go from there.
 
TLMitchell said:
If you don't want to commit to a quart ADS sells 12 oz sampler sizes of most of Megs products.

TL
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Thanks TL.
Their 12oz is about 1/2 of the cost of a quart. I was just wanting to try on maybe a 2-4 oz sample.
I'll keep ADS in mind if i get the 'itch' to try 205. :drool5:
 
gmblack3 said:
So are you polishing them every 6 months or once a year?
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They get a coat of carnauba(by hand) every month. Polishing varys a bit, but on average I would say every 8 months,give or take :soldier:

Also, ppl in Memphis seem to not give a crap about 95-100% corrections. I don't even try to market them here. You tell someone here "Hey man, I can get all those scratches/swirls out of your car, but its gonna cost you $450-$750" They will give you this > :cursing:

I was recently at a customers warehouse were he and his best freind store there collection. These are some very nice cars. I was telling them both after finishing up working, that if given more time(and :money:) I could make these cars look even better...I swear to you, they both looked at each other, then looked at me and the one said ...Quote >"Yea, sure you can"

I've just decided, as long as my customer is happy, and I'm happy then just let it go

I had a guy about a year and a half ago buy a S600 Black off of the net somewhere. Well when it got here, this thing was a masterpiece disaster. Someone had been washing this car with a rake/broom. Anyway this guy came referred off another long time customer :soldier:

The swirls/scratches were driving him nuts and was considering new paint or ditch the car. I spent 3 days/30 hours working on this castostophic disaster. I felt I defianetlly acheived a 95% finish. The customer came to pickup the car and was flippin out how great it turned out. Even gave me a VERY GENEROUS tip.I went over it very specifically that the car could end up in the same condition if it wasn't washed properly. About 6 months later my phone rings and its this dude, he starts going balistict saying the swirls had come back and felt I should re-do his car for nothing...Fat Chance I replied :doh:

Turns out, he had been letting some parking lot lizard wash his car every week for $25 :scared:


* Wow, I think I just broke my record on the longest post I've ever made...Sorry Sleep
 
teamerickson said:
What tool are you using?
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Makita 9227 or Dewalt 849 ^ :soldier:


jrt81 said:
Well, I will try a 1/2 panel with a PC and see. And compare it to another 1/2 with my Makita.
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That should be an intresting test ^ Let us know how it all turns out :toetap05:

Your in know way going to acheive 100% perfection using this method, however if your kinda lazy like me and if your tired of chasing perfection. This has proved to be satisfactory to me :wizard:
 
gmblack3 said:
IMO, Powergloss and other heavy hitters like 3M ECC should not be used with standard PC. The average person working on their own cars will have a hard time removing the excessive micromarring with a PC that heavier compounds leave.
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Would you consider M105 in this category?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Would you consider M105 in this category?
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M105 can leave a light haze on some paints if the paint is too soft or if the pad has not been excessively cleaned.

M105 on a Meguiar's cutting pad is actually a great 1 step on most light colored cars, IMO. Work a section, don't wipe of the residue, clean the pad, then polish back over the area on speed 3ish with firm (but not hard pressure) for 1-2 more passes. You might be amazed at the finish you are able to achieve.

I personally disagree that PO203 has more cut then M205, although I have seen it both ways. PO203 has pretty stubborn polishing oils that can be 'very' difficult to fully remove IME.

However try "The Porta" with PO203 and you can get a really great finish in only slightly more time then it would take with a 1 step and rotary.

Here is how I do it, select the best pad and apply PO203 with a rotary until it begins to break down. Switch to a dual action polish and a polishing/finishing pad and buff the residue until it is completely broken down.
 
[Here is how I do it, select the best pad and apply PO203 with a rotary until it begins to break down. Switch to a dual action polish and a polishing/finishing pad and buff the residue until it is completely broken down.]

Interesting, as I would have thought a rotary would provide more friction and be able to breakdown the abrasives more efficiently than an orbital.

Not trying to argue / disagree as sometimes practical application contradicts theory, even so I would appreciate the reasoning behind this method
 
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