'08 STS-V Major Paint Correction: Rasky's Auto Detailing

RaskyR1

Rasky's Auto Detailing
The owner of this 469-hp beauty contacted me late last fall after purchasing this car used. Since he was going to be storing it for the winter we decided to wait until this spring to perform the paint correction.



Upon inspection heavy swirls and dealer installed holograms were apparent on all panels. The owner and I agreed on a 2-step correction which should have removed the holograms and most the swirls. However, lately I have come across too many vehicles which appear to only need a 2-step correction, and I ended up getting burned by those nasty SHRIDS. Because of this I wanted to make the owner aware of the possibility that they may appear once I started the correction. For those of you who may not know what SHRIDS are, it’s basically my twist on the RIDS, or Random Isolated Deep Scratches. SHRIDS are the same as RIDS except they cannot be seen when the finish is so cover in swirls. Because of this I’ve coined them Sneaky Hidden Random Isolated Deep Scratches….SHRIDS! :)



On top of all the swirls and holograms The owner had a few areas of concern which required a little wet sanding. I wasn’t able to fully remove them, but I improved them to the point where they could hardly be seen.



Now lets see some pics! Here is the car as it arrived.

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Here is one outside after a thorough wash using CG Citrus Wash and Clear with the help of some P21S TAW to remove any wax or fillers the dealer may have applied....looks great under the overcast sky doesn't it???

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Still look great??? :)

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Buffer holograms car really be seen here

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Every panels was loaded with swirls and holograms!

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Another shot using the Brinkmann Dual Xenon light

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The passenger side fender was one of the areas of concern the owner had. It appeared someone had been leaning up against the car and had either a belt on or some other hard object that kept rubbing against the paint.

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Zoomed in a little closer you can get a better idea of the damage. Most of the scratches were actually on the sharp bend of the fender which is never an easy area to correct since it very easy to rub through.

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First I took several PTG reading to see how much paint I had to work with. One of the other areas on the roof had actually been worked on once already and readings around it were only in the 100 micron range so I was far less aggressive on that area. Here we can see some healthy reading in the upper 130 micron range.

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I carefully sanded the area with 2000 grit Meguiars paper by hand and checked my PTG readings often. Once I got to a point were I was happy with the result I follow up with some 3000 grit Meguiars paper and took a final reading.



A total of only 7 microns were removed. Since I was sanding on an edge I figured it best not to push my luck. ;)

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Anytime you attempt to polish a car you should always do a test spot first to make sure your process is going to have the desired effect you are after. Since I already had a plan of attack I started my test spot out by using Meguiars M105 on the PCXP using an orange LC 5.5" pad. After doing two buffing cycles it was apparent that a 2-step correction was not going to be enough....those nasty SHRIDS have struck again! :(



Here is my test panel taped up. You can see both side still have heavy swirls.

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After two buffing cycles using M105 all the swirls were now gone, but the SHRIDS are now clear as day! Because there were so many of them I simply could not let a car go out of my shop looking this way and my 2-step correction just turned into a 4-step correction.



Here is a 50/50 shot after the M105. As you can see there was a huge improvement in the finish but the SHIRDS are very noticeable.

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Zoomed in closer on the corrected side you can better see them

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Here is that same section after using M105 on a rotary polsiher equipped with a heavy cut wool pad and then followed with M105 on the PCXP with an orange LC pad. Some faint micro marring can be seen which was removed in the proceeding buffing steps.

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Here is a pic I took to show some cool little wool pads I picked up but I also wanted to show a good way to safely polish the lower edge of the deck lid. If I were to polish this area with the deck lid closed you could possible damage the bumper cover if you are not careful...If the side of the buffing pad or backing plate were to touch the bumper cover it could easily damage the finish! This method puts a large distance between the two perpendicular surfaces and also allows you better access for polishing.

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The final correction process I decided upon after doing my test spots was as follows:



  1. M105 on the rotary equipped with a heavy wool cutting pad. Polisher was run between 1200-1500rpms


  2. M105 on the PCXP equipped with 5.5" LC Hydro cyan pads on a speed of 6


  3. M205 on the PCXP equipped with 5.5" LC white pads on a speed of 6


  4. 3M Ultrafina on the rotary equipped with a 6.5" LC blue pads. Polishing was done by spreading out the polish at 900rpms, polishing for several passes at 1800rpms followed by another pass or two at 900rpms





Paint protection was done using Blackfire Wet-Diamond, glass was cleaned with Meguiars D120 and polished using KAIO, tires dressed with Meguiars Hyper Dressing at 4:1, stainless exhaust tips were clean with M105 and #0000 steel wool, and the headlamps/tail lights were polished using M105/M205 on the PCXP.
 
Anyone ready to see some finished pics? :)





Sorry, no sun pics were possible :(

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Some cool reflection shots :)

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Halogen shots

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Fender shot that had the deep scratches

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Brinkmann Dual Xenon shots

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As always, thank you for taking the time to view my work! :thx





Rasky
 
Great work! How do you like the LC Hydro pads? I am considering buying a couple for my 1 step jobs (the tangerine ones) with power finish. Also which pads did you use for the headlights?



~Jack
 
Nagz said:
Great work! How do you like the LC Hydro pads? I am considering buying a couple for my 1 step jobs (the tangerine ones) with power finish. Also which pads did you use for the headlights?



~Jack



Thanks Jack!



I've probably only used the Hydro pads a few time now so I can't give a solid opinion on them yet. They did finish down with less micro marring on this paint than the orange LC pads did which was why I chose to go with them. Others seem to like them a lot with Menzerna and the rotary. ;)



For the headlights I used M105 and an orange LC/M205 with a white LC. :xyxthumbs
 
Nagz said:
Great work! How do you like the LC Hydro pads? I am considering buying a couple for my 1 step jobs (the tangerine ones) with power finish. Also which pads did you use for the headlights?



~Jack



thats my got to combo!
 
Very nice. How does the M105 and #0000 steel work on the exhaust tips? I have a 2002 Camaro with Corsa exhaust and am looking for(exhaust tip) cleaning idea's. Thanks great job.
 
Apollo_Auto said:
Looks like a million ducks now, Chad! Was that a NEW car???



LOL...thanks Jesse!





No. I believe he said it had around 20,000 mile on it. All damage was prior to the new owner getting it.



termigator said:
Amazing! Your work looks great here too!:chuckle:





LOL....yeah, you would think it would vary from forum to forum :D





regina_sk_vw said:
WOW nice work.



Thank you! :)
 
Beautiful work on this one Rasky. The nicest black Caddy I've seen here in a while. What makes this different is the way you display and prove your final finish to be flawless without the need for sun shots. Not hidden(unrevealed) in the shaded far away shots like many others. Great work!
 
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