Reload Problems

GearHead_1 said:
So Ron, do we have to put a top coat (LSP) on top of the coating. Why not just use a sealant to begin with? Does anyone besides myself envision the LSP is now destined to have areas that wear differently from the get go? A little coating here, a little sealant here, a little wax here and some tire gel here. I'm kidding of course but I don't know that this would instill confidence for the user. You spend the $$$'s for a coating you kind of expect it to be the LSP or maybe that's just me.
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Ya I know what you mean about the coating wearing differently. But even with a coating on as the LSP, I think the best looking car is a fresh waxed car. For a "fresh waxed" look....you just have to wax it. I don't think my car looks as good 2 months later with a naked coating, compared to my car that's been freshly waxed. I'm all for waxing coatings. Besides, how else am I supposed to use up all this wax??
 
On my cell and only have a min
Suffice to say I just offered my zupply of reload to someone
Just slightly pissed
Will answer all posts later
 
I am so sorry that this product is causing you so much headache/heartache...

It has always been amazing to me to read how many steps you have to do and go through each time you do anything to this product...

My old-school-Opti-Guard from 3+ years ago has never given me a bit of trouble like your coating product...

I just wash it occasionally, using Reset now, and blow dry it (its black so I want to hurry), and occasionally, wipe it down with something like Optimum Opti-Gloss QD or Blackfire's version, with only a few towels, and certainly not as difficult as your product, and I still get very clear, glossy, can see every tiny metallic particle in the paint, everywhere on the Grand Cherokee..

No zillion towels, that harden up , none of this extra work, just put this product on correctly, cured it, drove probably 12 thousand miles, and its still there and is so user friendly..

I am sure there will be tons of room for a dozen coatings, etc., whatever you want to call them, every year, but perhaps we need to look back - way, way, back - at who started this process (after Sal Zaino), and see who is still working great after what a decade ??

All I can think of is that perhaps you have too much product on your paint now, and its not all playing well together...

Perhaps mnehls86 is the most correct - wash, wash, wash, with APC...

Your coating should still be on there but all the other stuff on top should be gone...

Need a clean palette now..

Good luck, mi Amigo !!!
Wish I could help !!
DanF
 
I would try a paint cleaner such as DG squeaky clean or DP prep polish. Stuff will surprise you what it'll remove.
I've always used two towels applying reload and work a small section, never had issues. Make sure you buff with the dry towel adequately so it doesn't leave an oily film.
 
Luvmyvette said:
Hey Ron,
Sorry to hear about your problems. That stuff is tricky and not very user friendly. And it's such a crap feeling to see all your hard work ruined by an uncooperative product. Anyway, after I coated with CQUK this past summer I had a similar problem with the Reload but it wasn't as bad after dilution. But for the problem spots left from reload and for any CQUK high spots I found (almost every time I looked at it from different angles in different lighting when I took it out) I used Adams Revive Hand Polish. I would spot polish with the revive on a MF buffer pad by hand and it removed it quite nicely with little effort. I recently bought their blue hand applicator pad and it works, as well. It looks like you have widespread problems vs. my spot issues but the revive was easy to work with and it beat going through the buffer routine. It'll be more like putting on a coat of wax. Hope that helps. Good luck.
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Yeah. This stuff is diluted 50/50
Did mine in garage too, can't do it in FL sun
Then out to driveway :wall

MarkD said:
I never tried this product, but would assume it is outstanding. (As it should be for the price.)

I say try a topper with the Synergy you have on hand. Simply hand apply. If that doesn't cut it, only then would I go to cleaners, and all the other rigamorole.
Mark
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Synergy and black ice are super products, and so is my old standby/standard Natty's blue.

Gonna just use some pb pro polish or dp paint prep polish and try to clean it up first, then TOP IT

GearHead_1 said:
So Ron, do we have to put a top coat (LSP) on top of the coating. Why not just use a sealant to begin with? Does anyone besides myself envision the LSP is now destined to have areas that wear differently from the get go? A little coating here, a little sealant here, a little wax here and some tire gel here. I'm kidding of course but I don't know that this would instill confidence for the user. You spend the $$$'s for a coating you kind of expect it to be the LSP or maybe that's just me.
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Amen !!!

mnehls86 said:
Wash with APC a few times? Remember the 2013 Reload fades with APC faster than 2014. APC test starts at 6:08

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I did, no work. will try again before I got polish it out

Jsmooth said:
Ron Call Corey!!! He is the man! I know he can get you through it!
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yeah
pm me your address

MarkD said:
In the last 12 or so months, there's no doubt that I've thrown more money, and more products at my crapbox Kia Spectra, than what the whole darn car is worth. It looks basically good considering it's 14 years old, it's my testing easel, and I've sampled quite a bit.

As for Reload, I know it is claimed to contain ceramic nano goodies, but I wouldn't go so far to really call it a coating. Although in a side by side, the Reload may actually last longer at protecting than so many other so called, and marketed "Coatings". I assume the main design goal of Reload was a maintenence product for CQuartz Coatings.

While I have CQuartz on one vehicle already and would probably very seriously consider using it on a future vehicle no matter the cost, I just don't know? This old school boy has almost come full circle again, realizing that many of the old school products have stood "the test of time".
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Hallelujah !!!!!

Vega@Autopia said:
Ya I know what you mean about the coating wearing differently. But even with a coating on as the LSP, I think the best looking car is a fresh waxed car. For a "fresh waxed" look....you just have to wax it. I don't think my car looks as good 2 months later with a naked coating, compared to my car that's been freshly waxed. I'm all for waxing coatings. Besides, how else am I supposed to use up all this wax??
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Ditto !!!!!!!!

GearHead_1 said:
Good point and more importantly, why is the King of Wax Wasting using a coatingesque product anyway?
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This wax waster is thinking the same

Stokdgs said:
I am so sorry that this product is causing you so much headache/heartache...

It has always been amazing to me to read how many steps you have to do and go through each time you do anything to this product...

My old-school-Opti-Guard from 3+ years ago has never given me a bit of trouble like your coating product...

I just wash it occasionally, using Reset now, and blow dry it (its black so I want to hurry), and occasionally, wipe it down with something like Optimum Opti-Gloss QD or Blackfire's version, with only a few towels, and certainly not as difficult as your product, and I still get very clear, glossy, can see every tiny metallic particle in the paint, everywhere on the Grand Cherokee..

No zillion towels, that harden up , none of this extra work, just put this product on correctly, cured it, drove probably 12 thousand miles, and its still there and is so user friendly..

I am sure there will be tons of room for a dozen coatings, etc., whatever you want to call them, every year, but perhaps we need to look back - way, way, back - at who started this process (after Sal Zaino), and see who is still working great after what a decade ??

All I can think of is that perhaps you have too much product on your paint now, and its not all playing well together...

Perhaps mnehls86 is the most correct - wash, wash, wash, with APC...

Your coating should still be on there but all the other stuff on top should be gone...

Need a clean palette now..

Good luck, mi Amigo !!!
Wish I could help !!
DanF
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Thanks Dan. Even though not a Z fan, yep, we will see what/who stands the test of time

KillaCam said:
I would try a paint cleaner such as DG squeaky clean or DP prep polish. Stuff will surprise you what it'll remove.
I've always used two towels applying reload and work a small section, never had issues. Make sure you buff with the dry towel adequately so it doesn't leave an oily film.
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I did use 2 towels.
But yeah, when I talked to Corey that was the consensus of our discussion
PB Pro Polish or DP coating prep polish, black lc pad.


Just is truly annoying. Angelo, Steve and I had the car absolutely beautiful, and now this. :mad: Not a happy camper
 
Questions I myself have about a product such as CP Reload versus CP CQuartz.

Now I know I seen one little miniscule CQ UK smudge about an 1" diameter on my Tahoe's Roof underneath one of the Roof Rack Rails which I must've missed, and of course in this way out of the way area, it doesn't really bother me. Probably caused it by trying to squeeze the foam block applicator under.

When I later noticed it, while "Reloading" the Roof, it wasn't smoothing of course, CQuartz gets as hard as a piece of glass.

But what about Reload? As I understand it, MF Towels are not at risk of a need to be condemned after using with Reload, so when you folks speak of high spots with the application, are you noting this stuff is un-budgeabe like CQuartz, or is it just areas which appear slightly darker-heavier, like there was a heavier application of product in certain areas of a panel?

In other words, it appears that the product has, or was just not evenly spread? Or?
 
Guess the stuff is just too finicky for an old caveman like me. :(

I used UK since it had the deep rich look I wanted, but having used uk and pbl, I find the pbl a lot easier, less finicky to use. Just wish it had the look I wanted for this black.
 
Try GTech EXO x2

Ronkh said:
Guess the stuff is just too finicky for an old caveman like me. :(

I used UK since it had the deep rich look I wanted, but having used uk and pbl, I find the pbl a lot easier, less finicky to use. Just wish it had the look I wanted for this black.
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MarkD said:
Questions I myself have about a product such as CP Reload versus CP CQuartz.

Now I know I seen one little miniscule CQ UK smudge about an 1" diameter on my Tahoe's Roof underneath one of the Roof Rack Rails which I must've missed, and of course in this way out of the way area, it doesn't really bother me. Probably caused it by trying to squeeze the foam block applicator under.

When I later noticed it, while "Reloading" the Roof, it wasn't smoothing of course, CQuartz gets as hard as a piece of glass.

But what about Reload? As I understand it, MF Towels are not at risk of a need to be condemned after using with Reload, so when you folks speak of high spots with the application, are you noting this stuff is un-budgeabe like CQuartz, or is it just areas which appear slightly darker-heavier, like there was a heavier application of product in certain areas of a panel?

In other words, it appears that the product has, or was just not evenly spread? Or?
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I dunno. I'm just a caveman.

Mebbe I need an acrylic paint condidtioner :rockon
 
A lot of problems people have with products are as simple as not having good lighting. If you buff it completely off and then pull it out of the garage and it re-appears it was never buffed off. Just need better lighting-
In the case of Reload you can't wait till the car is done to find this out.

Ronk, one of the Detailers I know actually uses it like that, wet car, one towel sprayed with reload, wipes, follows with the next. Still I would say get a couple 12" long cfl bulbs at 6000 kelvin and say hello to an increase in your performance with many products.

Also, spotlights don't count for finding high spots and smears. Led and point lights are great for polishing but crap for coating and high spots (they just wash them out to your eyes). For that, bright ambient light is the key.
 
What is the way to fix the issue? Light polish?

Seems to me after reading this that reload is a spray on wipe off coating type product?

CEE DOG said:
A lot of problems people have with products are as simple as not having good lighting. If you buff it completely off and then pull it out of the garage and it re-appears it was never buffed off. Just need better lighting-
In the case of Reload you can't wait till the car is done to find this out.

Ronk, one of the Detailers I know actually uses it like that, wet car, one towel sprayed with reload, wipes, follows with the next. Still I would say get a couple 12" long cfl bulbs at 6000 kelvin and say hello to an increase in your performance with many products.

Also, spotlights don't count for finding high spots and smears. Led and point lights are great for polishing but crap for coating and high spots (they just wash them out to your eyes). For that, bright ambient light is the key.
Click to expand...
 
JSFM35X said:
What is the way to fix the issue? Light polish?

Seems to me after reading this that reload is a spray on wipe off coating type product?
Click to expand...

Sort of I guess, it must fall under a unique specialized product which as I'm thinking perhaps has little to no peer on the market? Perhaps the only other may be something within the Pinnacle Black Lable line?

I've followed too many threads to list, some even my own in regards to topping Coatings with various other unorthodox products.

As some wiser than myself have commented along the lines of "why even then use a Coating type product when you are then maintaining it with a wax, or sealant that has different properties, and will not exhibit the same sheeting-beading, and longevity as the coating?"

I conclude from my limited experiences is "just how important is this"?
I've yet to see a coating that I've had applied, and have some decent experiences with such as DP-Pinnacle turn around and totally shrug road dirts, films, water spots when even at a high pressure spray wash.

That they are not so hydrophobic as one would wish they would-could be.

And as for insane beading, I, like others have not seen such myself with the 2 coatings I mention above, that a product such as Collinite #845 wins in that contest hands down.

I'm unsure, but am assuming the original base protectant on RonKH's vehicle was CQ UK?

While I haven't tried such on my Tahoe which has UK on it, as I don't see a need, I imagine I could come along with almost anything applied on top and will at least not effect CQ UK's durability. Yes, I might change the look, and possibly some other qualities. As for changing the look, and with the use of any very good product, I strongly doubt that the look will be worse.

As I mentioned earlier, Colly #845 easily removed the Oily Hollograms of Reload v2014 off of my Kia right now. 35 minute's time on and off was all it took.
Mark
 
I've been sitting here getting more and more annoyed.

Yes I did it in a garage !!! Fl sun is not really conducive to doing it outside especially on a black car. Lighting is decent, not great. I have done numerous corrections, coatings, waxings, sealants there.

That said, I am not the only one who has had the problem.

So is it user error? Maybe. But if so, it's really not user friendly. I do find the PBL products less finicky.

When I offer to send someone 3-4 full bottles of the stuff to someone well, that should say something.

That said, mebbe it just isn't the stuff for a HACK like me.

That's the way I feel after the response from Corey.

Everybody who tried to help me take care of this THANKS. I appreciate the help.

As it seems, I'm going to have to polish the stuff off. Which is exactly why I used a coating so I wouldn't have to polish/touch the surface as much.
 
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