Reload Problems

Ronkh said:
I'm wondering if maybe the solvent content of colli, but then I also hit my car before this with both ipa and eraser ??
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I'd have to rewind my "mental tapes", or re-read what I did after Reload 2014 application as I was in the recent convo with Corey at Carpro about the issue I noted with the newer Reload Formula.

And if memory serves me correctly, I did try CP Eraser afterwards to no effect of removing the smeary holograms.

I'm certainly no lab chemist, and it is basically unknown what component in such a formulation would cause such difficulties, or if such is caused by other factors such as weather-temps-humidity-etc?

And also, since Reload is quite a durable product, and collinite contains no cleaners, the Reload I previously applied may still indeed be hard at work, just layered underneath the #845 LSP?
 
wendell jarvis said:
Ron.....what's the date on the bottom of the bottle
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20141028_160618_zpsexucrybk.jpg
 
Now the batch formula date on my older Reload is 07-03-14 and I've had no problems with this 400ml bottle. (White in color and bought from Corey-Carpro)

But I had to send back two 500ml of the lastest Reload v2014 to AG for refund, just was too hard dealing with.

I did look back upon my posts at Carpro Forum just now, what I wrote-said that I did do an Eraser wipe down prior to applying the Reload but not after, only a wash with DG901 Shampoo.
Not sure if Carpro Reset would've made any difference in removing the oiliness-smearing?
 
MarkD said:
Now the batch formula date on my older Reload is 07-03-14 and I've had no problems with this 400ml bottle. (White in color and bought from Core-Carpro)

But I had to send back two 500ml of the lastest Reload v2014 to AG for refund, just was too hard dealing with.

I did look back upon my posts at Carpro Forum just now, what I wrote-said that I did do an Eraser wipe down prior to applying the Reload but not after, only a wash with DG901 Shampoo.
Not sure if Carpro Reset would've made any difference in removing the oiliness-smearing?
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Used reset
used pb sss
used cg citrus clear
used dg 901

:wall :wall

I'm sittin with 2 bottles orig, 2 bottles 2014

AND A MESS OF A CAR
 
MarkD said:
Now the batch formula date on my older Reload is 07-03-14 and I've had no problems with this 400ml bottle. (White in color and bought from Corey-Carpro)

But I had to send back two 500ml of the lastest Reload v2014 to AG for refund, just was too hard dealing with.

I did look back upon my posts at Carpro Forum just now, what I wrote-said that I did do an Eraser wipe down prior to applying the Reload but not after, only a wash with DG901 Shampoo.
Not sure if Carpro Reset would've made any difference in removing the oiliness-smearing?
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Some people have problems. Some don't. Seems like a crap shoot. If Ron is having issues - the stuff ain't right.
 
Ronkh said:
Thanks :redface:

Mebbe I ain't right :D
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Now you got me thinking of Joe Pesci in the Goodfellas "Spider Scene", "I thought I thought you were alright"?

"I am alright, you're not alright", the Oklahoma Kid, Bang! LOL

Maybe try one of those Pastes you have on hand on a fender, see what happens? Surely won't hurt anything.
 
MarkD said:
Now you got me thinking of Joe Pesci in the Goodfellas "Spider Scene", "I thought I thought you were alright"?

"I am alright, you're not alright", the Oklahoma Kid, Bang! LOL

Maybe try one of those Pastes you have on hand on a fender, see what happens? Surely won't hurt anything.
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Or Joe Pesci in the Christmas movie when both crooks looked at each other :rofl


I may, just really, really, really demoralized.

I'm entered in a Vette show at Disney (end of nov) and really didn't want to have to do car.
 
Ronkh said:
Or Joe Pesci in the Christmas movie when both crooks looked at each other :rofl


I may, just really, really, really demoralized.

I'm entered in a Vette show at Disney (end of nov) and really didn't want to have to do car.
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That's a long ways off, and in SW Fla, you should be able to get a decent day between now and then to re-do the ride.

My major useage of my older Reload Formula was on my White Tahoe one hour after a CQ UK application.

Yes, white, it becomes harder I know, to see any anomalies, but I did fully check under bright halogens, and sunlight, it seemed the Reload soaked into the UK finish like a sponge soaking water, went right on lickety split, smooth, not a streak, smear, high spot, nada. Just perfect from UK Application to the final Reload wipedown.
 
Ronkh said:
Read those

But this is still oeiginal version

Got 2 bottles of 14 v1 still on shelf :(
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Hi Ronkh, Joseph T asked me to pop over and help you out. Reload version your using should have no issues if used as described below.

Note, streaks are either product not buffed off or product re-deposited by a towel with reload in it instead of a proper dry final wipe towel.

With Reload it cures to the paint much stronger than wax so the difference in application is that you need to wipe it off completely before it flashes off on its own.

1. Shake well
2. Spray only the amount needed for one section (not an entire panel)
3.-IMMEDIATELY spread the product out with a short nap Microfiber Towel (high quality though) and immediately buff in completely and off.
4.-IMPORTANT: Use a separate towel (preferably a high quality absorbent towel) This towel is to stay using dry sides throughout as your final wipe towel. With this towel immediately buff the area once more to be sure no streak remains
5.-Move to next section and repeat.

Note, any drops that blow onto other areas of paint may become streaky if left there awhile. As mentioned - one area and move on (not an entire hood) please let me know if this helps.


OK, now onto removing it after it was applied incorrectly. This is the hard part. Reload is VERY durable and your correct its not going to simply be wiped off using IPA or Eraser. Please give me a call and we can walk through what you have available and how we can go about removing the streaks.

High spots from Reload WILL wear off on their own but as I understand it you don't have time to wait for such things. Give me a ring - 386-259-0759
 
CEE DOG said:
Hi Ronkh, Joseph T asked me to pop over and help you out. Reload version your using should have no issues if used as described below.

Note, streaks are either product not buffed off or product re-deposited by a towel with reload in it instead of a proper dry final wipe towel.

With Reload it cures to the paint much stronger than wax so the difference in application is that you need to wipe it off completely before it flashes off on its own.

1. Shake well
2. Spray only the amount needed for one section (not an entire panel)
3.-IMMEDIATELY spread the product out with a short nap Microfiber Towel (high quality though) and immediately buff in completely and off.
4.-IMPORTANT: Use a separate towel (preferably a high quality absorbent towel) This towel is to stay using dry sides throughout as your final wipe towel. With this towel immediately buff the area once more to be sure no streak remains
5.-Move to next section and repeat.

Note, any drops that blow onto other areas of paint may become streaky if left there awhile. As mentioned - one area and move on (not an entire hood) please let me know if this helps.


OK, now onto removing it after it was applied incorrectly... This is the hard part. Reload is VERY durable and your correct its not going to simply be wiped off using IPA or Eraser. Please give me a call and we can walk through what you have available and how we can go about removing the streaks.

High spots from Reload WILL wear off on their own but as I understand it you don't have time to wait for such things. Give me a ring - 386-259-0759
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Did all of that Corey
 
Hey Ron,
Sorry to hear about your problems. That stuff is tricky and not very user friendly. And it's such a crap feeling to see all your hard work ruined by an uncooperative product. Anyway, after I coated with CQUK this past summer I had a similar problem with the Reload but it wasn't as bad after dilution. But for the problem spots left from reload and for any CQUK high spots I found (almost every time I looked at it from different angles in different lighting when I took it out) I used Adams Revive Hand Polish. I would spot polish with the revive on a MF buffer pad by hand and it removed it quite nicely with little effort. I recently bought their blue hand applicator pad and it works, as well. It looks like you have widespread problems vs. my spot issues but the revive was easy to work with and it beat going through the buffer routine. It'll be more like putting on a coat of wax. Hope that helps. Good luck.
 
I never tried this product, but would assume it is outstanding. (As it should be for the price.)

I say try a topper with the Synergy you have on hand. Simply hand apply. If that doesn't cut it, only then would I go to cleaners, and all the other rigamorole.
Mark
 
So Ron, do we have to put a top coat (LSP) on top of the coating. Why not just use a sealant to begin with? Does anyone besides myself envision the LSP is now destined to have areas that wear differently from the get go? A little coating here, a little sealant here, a little wax here and some tire gel here. I'm kidding of course but I don't know that this would instill confidence for the user. You spend the $$$'s for a coating you kind of expect it to be the LSP or maybe that's just me.
 
Wash with APC a few times? Remember the 2013 Reload fades with APC faster than 2014. APC test starts at 6:08

 
CEE DOG said:
Hi Ronkh, Joseph T asked me to pop over and help you out. Reload version your using should have no issues if used as described below.

Note, streaks are either product not buffed off or product re-deposited by a towel with reload in it instead of a proper dry final wipe towel.

With Reload it cures to the paint much stronger than wax so the difference in application is that you need to wipe it off completely before it flashes off on its own.

1. Shake well
2. Spray only the amount needed for one section (not an entire panel)
3.-IMMEDIATELY spread the product out with a short nap Microfiber Towel (high quality though) and immediately buff in completely and off.
4.-IMPORTANT: Use a separate towel (preferably a high quality absorbent towel) This towel is to stay using dry sides throughout as your final wipe towel. With this towel immediately buff the area once more to be sure no streak remains
5.-Move to next section and repeat.

Note, any drops that blow onto other areas of paint may become streaky if left there awhile. As mentioned - one area and move on (not an entire hood) please let me know if this helps.


OK, now onto removing it after it was applied incorrectly. This is the hard part. Reload is VERY durable and your correct its not going to simply be wiped off using IPA or Eraser. Please give me a call and we can walk through what you have available and how we can go about removing the streaks.

High spots from Reload WILL wear off on their own but as I understand it you don't have time to wait for such things. Give me a ring - 386-259-0759
Click to expand...

Ron Call Corey!!! He is the man! I know he can get you through it!
 
GearHead_1 said:
So Ron, do we have to put a top coat (LSP) on top of the coating. Why not just use a sealant to begin with? Does anyone besides myself envision the LSP is now destined to have areas that wear differently from the get go? A little coating here, a little sealant here, a little wax here and some tire gel here. I'm kidding of course but I don't know that this would instill confidence for the user. You spend the $$$'s for a coating you kind of expect it to be the LSP or maybe that's just me.
Click to expand...

In the last 12 or so months, there's no doubt that I've thrown more money, and more products at my crapbox Kia Spectra, than what the whole darn car is worth. It looks basically good considering it's 14 years old, it's my testing easel, and I've sampled quite a bit.

As for Reload, I know it is claimed to contain ceramic nano goodies, but I wouldn't go so far to really call it a coating. Although in a side by side, the Reload may actually last longer at protecting than so many other so called, and marketed "Coatings". I assume the main design goal of Reload was a maintenence product for CQuartz Coatings.

While I have CQuartz on one vehicle already and would probably very seriously consider using it on a future vehicle no matter the cost, I just don't know? This old school boy has almost come full circle again, realizing that many of the old school products have stood "the test of time".
 
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