BOSS BEST IN SHOW SYSYEM
- Thread starter Bull6791
- Start date
You're looking at two types of decon as mentioned here. Chemical (decon soap and/or iron remover) and mechanical (clay). If your car is silver or white (or sky blue in this case), you'll be able to see little orange specks in the paint. Those are metal shavings. Iron remover will "melt" those away. Of course, they're present on all colors but you'll have a hard time seeing them on a darker color. It's probably a safe bet to do an iron remover regardless because it's a low risk high reward step.
It's easier to tell if your paint needs clayed. After you've washed and dried, put your hand in a sandwich bag. Gently run it across a horizontal surface. If you can feel bumps, you should clay. If it's smooth, you can probably skip.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
If you decide to try an iron remover, consider the Stoner Odorless Iron Remover. It's a little slower acting than the thioglycolate-based ones, and it turns the iron orange instead of purple...but it smells a lot better.
MisterSnoop
Member
I will say that if you do use the Griot's ceramic AIO, it's difficult to get the pads fully cleaned after using that. I have some pads that I've just dedicated to that product.
Accumulator
Well-known member
TGates- Heh heh, once again, you and I are on the same page after all!
Bull6791- OK, just be careful that you don't make more work for yourself.
Bull6791- OK, just be careful that you don't make more work for yourself.
Desertnate
Active member
Add me to the list of Griots BOSS fans.
I have a G15 and a G8 polishers and really like them. I started down the detailing road with an old HF polisher which was fine, but looking back I wish I would have started with a better polisher like whatever Griots equivalent was to the G9, back then. I probably would still be using it today and wouldn't have felt the need to upgrade.
I like the BOSS polishes too. I've not used the fast correcting creme but I have used the Correcting Cream and the Perfecting Cream. Both finish down really nicely. With a medium polishing pad and the BOSS Perfecting Creme you can easily do a one-step correction on a well maintained car with soft/medium paint. It's the go-to combo for my BRZ.
I have a G15 and a G8 polishers and really like them. I started down the detailing road with an old HF polisher which was fine, but looking back I wish I would have started with a better polisher like whatever Griots equivalent was to the G9, back then. I probably would still be using it today and wouldn't have felt the need to upgrade.
I like the BOSS polishes too. I've not used the fast correcting creme but I have used the Correcting Cream and the Perfecting Cream. Both finish down really nicely. With a medium polishing pad and the BOSS Perfecting Creme you can easily do a one-step correction on a well maintained car with soft/medium paint. It's the go-to combo for my BRZ.
Accumulator
Well-known member
MisterSnoop- That *is* worth mentioning, how the CAIO takes a bit of work to get out of the pads! A good Pad Cleaning Product can help a lot, but yeah...still a lot of work under hot water (and wearing nitrile gloves). I always dedicate my pads to specific products, so having those "just for CAIO" wasn't unusual for me.
Bull6791- Sorry, I picked the wrong day to be offline! Lots of Qs worth discussing...
As per the above, I'd sure want some good Pad Cleaner to get the CAIO out of the pads. And it's another reason to buy more than you think you need (loaded-up pads don't work well).
I don't use the Decontamination Towels due to a concern that I'll mar my paint. Two ways I can imagine that happening:
1) if you dislodge a speck of [abrasive stuff] you won't know it, and the towel might drag that speck across the paint, causing a scratch. That's why it can take me *FOREVER* to do a Claying as I literally work inch-by-inch using tiny little pieces of clay; I want to know what's going on every second I'm rubbing that stuff against my paint (and I use plenty of Clay Lube too).
2) the towels themselves are at least slightly abrasive even when wet with Lube, which is why they are not recommended for use on decals or matte/flat/satin paint. If something can change the texture/gloss of those surfaces, then that could also do it to nice glossy paint, and I won't risk that. Note that would not be a concern on a vehicle that already needed a lot of correction.
I generally prefer Chemical Decontamination when I'm doing a full Detail. Chemical Decontamination will get the [bad stuff] out of the pores/microfissures of the paint whereas the Towels/Clay basically only remove what's up on the surface. That's why "rust blooms can seem to come back" after somebody mechanically decontaminates a contaminated vehicle.
My go-to products for ages have the ValuGard (sic) ABC system, but that's not commonly available on the consumer level. I haven't used the Stoner's product, but I'd take Setec's word for its being OK. I most recently use the Griot's Surface Prep product (through a foam cannon) followed by their Iron Remover. This approach worked OK on the vehicle I was doing, but it wasn't bad and I did think that the products could be stronger.
I'm just about to start a big Full Detailing Project on a decade-old crossover my wife wanted. Accumulatorette doesn't quite have my standards, but she does want her vehicles a whole lot nicer than the average "nicely detailed car" so I have my work cut out for me! I'm starting with the same Griot's products I used the last time, and we'll see whether I feel I have to get out the ValuGard stuff.
The Gri8ots Surface Prep can be diluted (1:10) with water and thus used without the foam cannon, if that matters to you.
In *your* case, I'd still do a little work to determine whether it actually needs decontaminated or not. If you see any rust blooms, then sure, have at it! Ditto if the "baggie test" reveals stuff stuck to the surface of the paint. If you see tar, I'd use a solvent to get it off. No point in doing unnecessary work!
Bull6791- Sorry, I picked the wrong day to be offline! Lots of Qs worth discussing...
As per the above, I'd sure want some good Pad Cleaner to get the CAIO out of the pads. And it's another reason to buy more than you think you need (loaded-up pads don't work well).
I don't use the Decontamination Towels due to a concern that I'll mar my paint. Two ways I can imagine that happening:
1) if you dislodge a speck of [abrasive stuff] you won't know it, and the towel might drag that speck across the paint, causing a scratch. That's why it can take me *FOREVER* to do a Claying as I literally work inch-by-inch using tiny little pieces of clay; I want to know what's going on every second I'm rubbing that stuff against my paint (and I use plenty of Clay Lube too).
2) the towels themselves are at least slightly abrasive even when wet with Lube, which is why they are not recommended for use on decals or matte/flat/satin paint. If something can change the texture/gloss of those surfaces, then that could also do it to nice glossy paint, and I won't risk that. Note that would not be a concern on a vehicle that already needed a lot of correction.
I generally prefer Chemical Decontamination when I'm doing a full Detail. Chemical Decontamination will get the [bad stuff] out of the pores/microfissures of the paint whereas the Towels/Clay basically only remove what's up on the surface. That's why "rust blooms can seem to come back" after somebody mechanically decontaminates a contaminated vehicle.
My go-to products for ages have the ValuGard (sic) ABC system, but that's not commonly available on the consumer level. I haven't used the Stoner's product, but I'd take Setec's word for its being OK. I most recently use the Griot's Surface Prep product (through a foam cannon) followed by their Iron Remover. This approach worked OK on the vehicle I was doing, but it wasn't bad and I did think that the products could be stronger.
I'm just about to start a big Full Detailing Project on a decade-old crossover my wife wanted. Accumulatorette doesn't quite have my standards, but she does want her vehicles a whole lot nicer than the average "nicely detailed car" so I have my work cut out for me! I'm starting with the same Griot's products I used the last time, and we'll see whether I feel I have to get out the ValuGard stuff.
The Gri8ots Surface Prep can be diluted (1:10) with water and thus used without the foam cannon, if that matters to you.
In *your* case, I'd still do a little work to determine whether it actually needs decontaminated or not. If you see any rust blooms, then sure, have at it! Ditto if the "baggie test" reveals stuff stuck to the surface of the paint. If you see tar, I'd use a solvent to get it off. No point in doing unnecessary work!
If it helps you any, the G9 stalls out on most places that would have an easier time burning through the paint... mainly the curves. The more you prep, the better it will look.. (i.e. your decon step)
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Can you just get the 3" backing plate to fit on the G9, and use it that way??