New Mothers CMX CERAMIC SPRAY COATING

I applied it last week when I did the undercarriage. It did the spray it on the mf pad and spread it. The part I didn`t care much for was the grabbiness when wiping it off. We have gotten a little bit of rain since. I didn`t find the water behavior to be spectacular. I was expecting fusso coat type behavior. On the horizontal panels the water beads were on the larger side. The vertical panels shed the water really well. What I found good though was how the water drops picked up the dirt within it. So I see that as good self cleaning.

This is will work till it gets a little warmer up here in the mountains. Then I think I`ll get this the gloss shop v2 coating on the car. None of the other lsp`s I`ve tried here have lasted very long. This environment has been rough on what I`ve tried so far.
 
I agree that CMX does look good and that look has stayed put so the coating is definitely still there.

I have been trying spraying it on more heavy than a normal detail spray. I figure that the SiO2 & TiO2 content is supposed to be low around 20% (I think) so more of it is needed to build up a thick enough coating film. Sort of saturating the panel. It still seems to disappear into the paint, just takes more wiping. It`s also water based so it doesn`t have the solvents to help draw into the paint. I think that I am getting better beading doing it that way, but haven`t done any side by side comparisons. just comparing one car to another so there`s other factors.

I am going to do 3 layers like this on my wife`s BMW and see what the result is. It does look really good on silver paint.

Kind of strange how it performs much better on glass than paint.
 
I forgot to add that am using a Optimum Opti-Gloss foam puck applicator to apply it. Works very good for CMX and it seemed to wash out without issue.
 
DBAILEY:
What do you wash out the OPT foam puck with, i.e., what are you using as soap/cleaner to remove it from the foam puck??

Also, what specific microfiber cloths (manufacturer(s) and type(s)) are you (and others) using to wipe off CMX with?

This Mother`s CMX product is different in that it does not require pressure water to active or apply it, IF I understand it.


Off topic, I have said this repeatedly, but REALLY appreciate all the comments from those of you who do take the time to try out a new product and post your experiences here in this forum. For myself as a hobbyist with limited means for detailing products, I simply cannot afford to buy every new car-care product that comes out. So your unbiased posts help decide which products I will buy AND how to use them properly to get the best results. It helps make vehicle detailing a little more enjoyable and "affordable" for myself.
 
I was wetting the applicator with an APC. Then when I got it to the sink I would rinse that out and then reclean with foam pad cleaner. I think it was the M37 one or WG. I lightly scrubbed the foam face with a toothbrush.

It was this one: Optimum Opti Dual Pro Applicator

The CMX kind of reminds me of the AQuartz coatings if anyone remembers them. They were water based too. You could clearly see that they were creating a film on the paint and they looked and felt great, but they were not a strong beader and did the flatter sheeting thing unless you put their `Reload` on top. However, that coating film did seem like it was protecting the paint.

I used the last of what I had left of those AQuartz coatings to coat my new grill a few years ago. It still looks great.

I used some older yellow Viking MF towels that are still soft but don`t get used much anymore. Dual pile. Nothing fancy since Forrest/Mother`s said that it will make the towels hydrophobic, but crystallization is not a problem.
 
I`ll still keep CMX around for applying to windows. That was really easy and effortless. Super Rain-X. Feels much slicker on glass than on paint too.
 
Thanks, forgot about he hydrophobic towels, I will remember to use Costco ones

Yes, I remember AQuartz...

Lonnie: one of the best pieces of advise (that I never follow) is “find something you like, and use it often”. We have too many products that all do the same thing, just slightly differently.

I see that CarPro has released a new consumer coating, that I am trying to resist. Don’t need it, just want to try it.
 
On microfibers to be used with CMX, it sounds like they become "contaminated" with this product and the microfiber looses its ability to hold or attract liquids (water or water-based products), hence its "hydrophobic" characteristic. Three things concern me about microfiber cloths:
1) Its lack of linting or lose of fibers that get stuck or attracted to a surface due to induced static charges on a surface when wiping off a product;
2) Its softness or if it is too hard and will scratch or micro-mar surfaces when wiping;
3) Its absorbency or how well it holds or attracts the liquid or product I am trying to wipe off or remove.

A good "quality" microfiber cloth is expensive and having it "degrade" or become useless when used with CMX , while not necessarily a deal breaker, but it almost sounds like the cloth may be used a few times before it SHOULD be thrown away. I would definitely not wash these CMX-impregnated cloths in a washing machine with other microfibers for fear of this "hydrophobic contamination".
I dislike the idea of using inexpensive (AKA, cheap) microfibers for use with CMX as many of them lack one or more of the characteristics of an acceptable microfiber for use on a vehicle. Maybe some of you can live with left behind lint or even minor micro-marring; I cannot as I spend far too much time and effort perfecting an exterior surface, only to have it ruined by a $1.00 cloth (or I am just too much of an Obsessive-Compulsive Detailer because of what I have learned and seen from my fellow Autopians in this forum!).
As stated, I think these cloths become a throw-way item that needs to be factored into using CMX on a vehicle and hence my question about which specific microfiber cloths are used with this product that give the best results.
 
Thinking about it another way, what’s stopping you using the same cloth for CMX over and over?

It’s already paint safe, but has become hydrophobic. So using it again means that you’re spreading and buffing the product into the paint and not depositing back on the towel?

Will have to give this a try, not sure it’s going to work. Perhaps it’s just going to push the product around...

There are reasonable priced paint safe towels available, so although you have to factor this cost into application, for me at least, it’s not a huge hardship. I can demote it to engine bay cleaning before ending up in the bin.

Something from the rag company, like an edgeless 300 ($1.65) I think would be suitable.
 
tyusaf said:
Thinking about it another way, what’s stopping you using the same cloth for CMX over and over?

It’s already paint safe, but has become hydrophobic. So using it again means that you’re spreading and buffing the product into the paint and not depositing back on the towel?

Will have to give this a try, not sure it’s going to work. Perhaps it’s just going to push the product around...

There are reasonable priced paint safe towels available, so although you have to factor this cost into application, for me at least, it’s not a huge hardship. I can demote it to engine bay cleaning before ending up in the bin.

Something from the rag company, like an edgeless 300 ($1.65) I think would be suitable.
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Yeah, I don’t have much fear of re-using a hydrophobic towel to re-apply future CMX applications. Another thread going on (for CP coating lite) worried me about possible crystallization of the SiO2 within the towel which could scratch the surface... but that was one persons opinion and choice to throw away. Not everyone agrees this crystallization occurs or causes scratching. Since that thread is about coating lite also, I would expect something that strong to have greater potential of causing issues... hopefully CMX has less potential for this scratch-worthy crystallization.

Anyways, I myself will likely try re-using the CMX towel for more CMX. In the unlikely event it scratches some... I try to polish twice a year and don’t own any garage queens. :)
 
Lonnie said:
On microfibers to be used with CMX, it sounds like they become "contaminated" with this product and the microfiber looses its ability to hold or attract liquids (water or water-based products), hence its "hydrophobic" characteristic. Three things concern me about microfiber cloths:
1) Its lack of linting or lose of fibers that get stuck or attracted to a surface due to induced static charges on a surface when wiping off a product;
2) Its softness or if it is too hard and will scratch or micro-mar surfaces when wiping;
3) Its absorbency or how well it holds or attracts the liquid or product I am trying to wipe off or remove.

A good "quality" microfiber cloth is expensive and having it "degrade" or become useless when used with CMX , while not necessarily a deal breaker, but it almost sounds like the cloth may be used a few times before it SHOULD be thrown away. I would definitely not wash these CMX-impregnated cloths in a washing machine with other microfibers for fear of this "hydrophobic contamination".
I dislike the idea of using inexpensive (AKA, cheap) microfibers for use with CMX as many of them lack one or more of the characteristics of an acceptable microfiber for use on a vehicle. Maybe some of you can live with left behind lint or even minor micro-marring; I cannot as I spend far too much time and effort perfecting an exterior surface, only to have it ruined by a $1.00 cloth (or I am just too much of an Obsessive-Compulsive Detailer because of what I have learned and seen from my fellow Autopians in this forum!).
As stated, I think these cloths become a throw-way item that needs to be factored into using CMX on a vehicle and hence my question about which specific microfiber cloths are used with this product that give the best results.
Click to expand...
I see your concern about the mf towels. This I have a little problem with useing a drying aid that has a stout LSP in it. They have created a mess on my favorite drying towel that needed 5-6 washes before acting as it where before.

I would treat it like a coating in this case. And do with the other more longevity LSP I have. I have a bucket with an APC in it. And use the wipe off towel on maybe 2-3 panels depending on the environment I do it in. The application towel if it`s more wet of product can be used longer but 2-3 towels per car with those so I don`t have them in the air more than around 10min. Directly put the towel in the bucket and wring it out and has it in there. I useally have an extra grit guard upside down over the towels to hold them down as much as possible. Rinse them out thoroughly and sometimes depending what I have used a spray a cleaner in it as rinsing for some extra effect. Then put it directly in the washer and with only these towels. That`s makes it no problem to use a lot of towels either. As I seperate mf towels from different kinds and even different uses when washing. The LSP towels is always first to be washed. Maybe OCD-ish methods for only mf towels. But I like to have the mind at rest and not second guess my self all the time. Now I have found a mf towel on a domestic detailing company and shop. That is of high quality and also the cost is good 10 towels for $8 when on sale I stock up some of them. So not the whole world if I need to throw a couple away if it`s needed to be done. Then have the ones from highest quality yarn of mf. And some that looks a lot like the Gold Plush jr towels. And when you use a towel that costs $6-$12 you don`t want to throw them away or degrade them after only one use. Also try to seperate mf towels from different uses as much as possible. But no extreme as I think that I keep them clean and perform as new for many washes and uses.

Skickat från min SM-T585 via Tapatalk
 
My second car with CMX. My black Mercedes. I have not used coatings before this product. Results have surpassed any of the top sealants that I have used as far as gloss and depth of color. Beats High Gloss IMO which I love. Hope it has longevity.
 
BTW, I used Menzerna SF 4000 after Nanoskin followed by an IPA 12% wipe down before applying the CMX. I spayed the microfiber applicator and also lightly spayed the car a panel at a time spreading evenly followed by wiping with a clean MF.
 
dennis hiip said:
BTW, I used Menzerna SF 4000 after Nanoskin followed by an IPA 12% wipe down before applying the CMX. I spayed the microfiber applicator and also lightly spayed the car a panel at a time spreading evenly followed by wiping with a clean MF.
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I also did an IPA wipedown, and applied using your same technique. I did the black roof of my Mini and it looked great, and had tight beading after a rain shower. A week later I washed it with CG Citrus Wash to test durability and was not overly impressed. I do know that this wash has some stripping ability, so it might not have been a fair test. I reapplied the other day, and it`s had plenty of time to cure. We have rain forecasted all weekend, and I`m going to "road test" this stuff, and wash with a milder soap first of the week and see how it goes. I will report back. I want to like this stuff because it`s fairly cheap, easy to get, and application is pretty idiot proof. I mainly detail for family, and friends who have bad habits for maintenance cleaning. If it won`t hold up to a "fairly" mild soap, I don`t see it holding up to the stuff I see a lot of people using. I do know results can vary, so I`m watching this thread to see what others report.
 
Soap probably left something on the surface of CMX. Apex detail tested it and found that polishing it didn`t remove it. That seems pretty tough to me.
 
wannafbody said:
Soap probably left something on the surface of CMX. Apex detail tested it and found that polishing it didn`t remove it. That seems pretty tough to me.
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I’m not sure I’m buying that polishing can’t remove this, unless it’s non-abrasive paint cleaner. Not trying to disprove you, it sounds like the Apex did the test and results. Do you recall what polish was used in the test?
 
acuRAS82 said:
I’m not sure I’m buying that polishing can’t remove this, unless it’s non-abrasive paint cleaner. Not trying to disprove you, it sounds like the Apex did the test and results. Do you recall what polish was used in the test?
Click to expand...

I saw the youtube video Apex did for CMX. He first polished with Angelwax perfect polish, which he admitted was not very aggressive. He then used a stronger compound that did remove a lot of the CMX.
 
Kevin Brown talked about an experience polishing a vehicle. He talked about after many products and pads paint correction was going nowhere. It turned out that it was a layer of sealant from the automatic car wash. After taking steps to chemically remove it. The paint correction process went easy. He also shows how a sealant greatly reduced the effectiveness of sanding. It was him talking about why it`s always important to start with a virgin surface before doing any paint correction. He said sealants just get pushed around by the pad and product, and if you are going to try to remove it by polishing. You need to use a excess amount of product.
 
Wow, very interesting. This info goes against general consensus in these forums (any decent abrasive polish will remove any LSP). I don’t know enough but look forward to further responses here.
 
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