Uh oh. How to remove Miyabi coat?

jrock645

jrock645

New member
So I applied Miyabi coat last weekend. Did the first coat Sunday afternoon, and it was super easy. Did 2-3panels at a time with no issues. Easiest wipe off I’ve ever seen on a coating. Did the 2nd coat the next day, and since the first was so easy, I did 3-4 panels at a time.

Problem is, it was earlier in the day, the sun was higher and a bit brighter. Wipe off was impossible on the panels that were getting the most sun. So I have high spots on the hood, roof and trunk lid, and in the tops of the rear and front drivers side quarter panels.

Yeah, dumb move on my part.

I figured I could just polish this stuff off, like I’ve done with gloss coat. No such luck. Used the rotary withpolishing and cutting pads and 3D compound, even tried it with the compound and the Urofiber pads on the Rupes. This stuff won’t budge.

So how do I get these high spots off?
 
If a rotary and compound wouldn`t take it off, I doubt if any chemical solvent will remove it. Hate to say it, but live with it or wet sand it off. IIRC, GTechniq has a coating that the only way to remove it, is to sand it off.
 
Wipe it with 91 percent alcohol straight, then a microfiber pad and I use Griot’s fast correction cream, but a compound will remove it. Never had a problem getting it off. You can also call Todd and see what he says.
 
Mike lambert said:
Wipe it with 91 percent alcohol straight, then a microfiber pad and I use Griot’s fast correction cream, but a compound will remove it. Never had a problem getting it off. You can also call Todd and see what he says.
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Thanks. Will try this tomorrow.

By Todd, you mean Rupes Todd?
 
First time I used it, hadda redo a panel a week later. Menz 2400 w orange light cutting pad seemed to do it for me.

Interesting...
 
Would it be easier to remove after the coating had fully hardened? I’ve removed CQuartz with Menz 3500. That Miyabi must be some tough stuff.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Would it be easier to remove after the coating had fully hardened? I’ve removed CQuartz with Menz 3500. That Miyabi must be some tough stuff.
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Its been on for a week.

And yeah... I figured most coatings would come off with just some normal polishing. I was not expecting it to be this difficult. Hit it with 205 first, nothing. Then 3D compound on the rotary, nothing. Then 3d compound again with urofiber on the Rupes. Still there. I can’t even believe it.
 
jrock645 said:
Its been on for a week.

And yeah... I figured most coatings would come off with just some normal polishing. I was not expecting it to be this difficult. Hit it with 205 first, nothing. Then 3D compound on the rotary, nothing. Then 3d compound again with urofiber on the Rupes. Still there. I can’t even believe it.
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I had heard of some coatings needing to be wetsanded off but I thought it was bs. Now I’m not so sure. I was thinking of using Miyabii the future, I might need to stick with something less permanent. Always learning.
 
jrock645 said:
Did the 2nd coat the next day, and since the first was so easy, I did 3-4 panels at a time.

Problem is, it was earlier in the day, the sun was higher and a bit brighter. Wipe off was impossible on the panels that were getting the most sun. So I have high spots on the hood, roof and trunk lid, and in the tops of the rear and front drivers side quarter panels.
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I`d guess that you may have a pretty thick layer (cured) on there (relative to an applied/buffed) panel, perhaps? If so...er, uh...I got nuthin. As mentioned, I`d call Esoteric and see what they have to say or try something heavier than HD Compound. Maybe something like D300 on microfiber?
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
I`d guess that you may have a pretty thick layer (cured) on there (relative to an applied/buffed) panel, perhaps? If so...er, uh...I got nuthin. As mentioned, I`d call Esoteric and see what they have to say or try something heavier than HD Compound. Maybe something like D300 on microfiber?
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Menzerma has a new FG 300 compound that I bought but have not tried. FG 400 has always been sufficient. FG 300 has the most cut that I know of without wetsanding. After using 3M 3000 grit pads on headlights I would consider using them to remove a coating safely, but I hope you do not have to wet sand that coating off.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
I had heard of some coatings needing to be wetsanded off but I thought it was bs. Now I’m not so sure. I was thinking of using Miyabii the future, I might need to stick with something less permanent. Always learning.
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Removing a high spot, especially an intentional one, is totally different then removing a properly leveled coating. In those stories of needing to wet sand it off the product was applied and never leveled, which is a huge difference. I`ve never had a coating the was properly applied/leveled that couldn`t be compounded off.
 
Ok, spent a couple hours on it with limited progress.

Did the 91% IPA wipedown. Was able to remove almost all of it from the hood. There’s a couple small high spots left, but they’re equivalent to smudges like a thumbprint. 2or 3that I’ve seen. I can live with that. Reapplied Miyabi coat here and the hood looks pretty good.

Did not have the same luck with the rear quarter panel or trunk lid. Did the rear quarter panel 3 times. First with compound and rotary(combo of HD cut and 3D 501), then twice with Rupes and microfiber cutting pad with same compound combo. I may have lessened a little of it, but it’s mostly still there.

At this point I stopped out of frustration. Guess I’ll just live with it. Hopefully what I did will at least weaken the coating a bit, to where it won’t last too long.
 
Aw man, coatings are supposed to make your life easier, not add to life`s frustrations. Glad you at least got the hood looking better.
 
For those familiar with Miyabi, is it that much ~harder~ than other comparable coatings ?

I have seen the results of coatings ontop of soft paint, and it definitely helps with the typical marring you will get with soft paint. Eventually the marring does still come through, just not as FAST. I have not used the MMMM`s yet - Miyabi and Modesta.
 
mobiledynamics said:
For those familiar with Miyabi, is it that much ~harder~ than other comparable coatings ?

I have seen the results of coatings ontop of soft paint, and it definitely helps with the typical marring you will get with soft paint. Eventually the marring does still come through, just not as FAST. I have not used the MMMM`s yet - Miyabi and Modesta.
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Who`s to say (really) if one coating is `harder` than another. I`ve never had a problem removing it with Menz 2400 on orange light cutting pad but that`s just `standard` missed high spots after leveling/buffing as opposed to OP`s which apparently dried a bit too long before buffing/leveling.

The Technical specs read like many others:

echnical Specification:

  • VOC-free
  • Non-solvent based
  • Durability: 18-24 months
  • Water contact angle: 95 degrees
  • pH tolerance: 2-11
  • Thickness layer: 1-2 microns
  • Hardness: 8-9H (pencil scale)
  • Coverage: 30ml = 2-3 cars
 
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