About to start paint correction - need some help

It appears the Mazda 3 has thin paint and the clear coat, from what I've read, is delicate (not sure if its the right word to use). I've been helped quite a bit by Merlin :cool: and that has me leaning in this direction:

Buy Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and Ultimate Compound. Also, get CarPro Reflect.

My plan is to try the Ultimate Polish first with a certain pad and see how it goes. If it goes well, then try it over the entire car. Then finish up with Reflect. If the Ultimate Polish does not work well, use Ultimate Compound and finish with Reflect.

I'm sure I will be posting quite often here, LOL. My head hurts from all these products and so much information. But I guess it's part of the learning process. I am thankful for the help I've gotten here!
 
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish are good places to start and learn your technique. From there you can move onto another product. The only reason I would not recommend M105 for someone starting out is that it has a slight learning curve and it can be frustrating to use. I would go with M101, Ultimate Compound or D300 over M105. M205 is a good polish. I would recommend you pick this up versus Ultimate Polish. It offers more cut than Ult. Polish where as Ult. Polish offers more polishing oils.

Another compound and polish that gets overlooked is Mothers Professional Paint Restoration System. I've used it and it's user friendly and works very well.

Mothers Professional Paint Restoration System
 
Ahh, yes, here's another product combo I might suggest for light correction and minimal swirl removal.

Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction Compound D300 and Meguiars DA Microfiber Cutting Discs, 5 inches

Not as aggressive as M105 or M101. They do a great job of removing swirls and a good product for a newbie.
I'd follow the D300/mf cutting disc combo with Reflect & a soft LC Hydro-Tech tangerine or crimson foam pad.

Use the Megs D300/mf disc for correction and Reflect for the polishing. Sorry I didn't think of this combo earlier.

 
Nav45- I might be just a little biased against coatings as they're just not right *for me*, but generally I'd keep this simple and just use a conventional LSP.

Sorry, not familiar with Reflect.

When Mazdas have thin paint it can be *VERY* thin, so take it easy in that quest for Autopian perfection ;) Do a few tries with the Ultimate Polish instead of giving up and switching to the Ultimate Compound if the UP doesn't immediately solve the issues.
 
The Guz said:
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish are good places to start and learn your technique. From there you can move onto another product. The only reason I would not recommend M105 for someone starting out is that it has a slight learning curve and it can be frustrating to use. I would go with M101, Ultimate Compound or D300 over M105. M205 is a good polish. I would recommend you pick this up versus Ultimate Polish. It offers more cut than Ult. Polish where as Ult. Polish offers more polishing oils.

Another compound and polish that gets overlooked is Mothers Professional Paint Restoration System. I've used it and it's user friendly and works very well.

Mothers Professional Paint Restoration System
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Thank you The Guz. You are stating an important thing: without proper technique, a good product won't do much good. Thanks for understanding the limitations of a novice.

Appreciate also the recommendations on the compounds/polishes. I can definitely use the help.
 
Merlin said:
Ahh, yes, here's another product combo I might suggest for light correction and minimal swirl removal.

Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction Compound D300 and Meguiars DA Microfiber Cutting Discs, 5 inches

Not as aggressive as M105 or M101. They do a great job of removing swirls and a good product for a newbie.
I'd follow the D300/mf cutting disc combo with Reflect & a soft LC Hydro-Tech tangerine or crimson foam pad.

Use the Megs D300/mf disc for correction and Reflect for the polishing. Sorry I didn't think of this combo earlier.

Click to expand...

Hey Merlin! Those Microfiber cutting pads sure look different (and I'm sure function a bit different from regular pads). Another great suggestion by you. I am going to keep in this in mind. Thank you again.
 
Accumulator said:
Nav45- I might be just a little biased against coatings as they're just not right *for me*, but generally I'd keep this simple and just use a conventional LSP.

Sorry, not familiar with Reflect.

When Mazdas have thin paint it can be *VERY* thin, so take it easy in that quest for Autopian perfection ;) Do a few tries with the Ultimate Polish instead of giving up and switching to the Ultimate Compound if the UP doesn't immediately solve the issues.
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Accumulator, yes, you are right - I'm going to correct the paint about as reasonably possible. This forum can certainly raise the expectations a little high for us regular people :D.

I'm going to go less aggressive with my polishing. If I need more correction, I can later use a more aggressive product.

I've also been dithering about the LSPs. Every one of those products and methods has a pro and a con (like everything else in our usual life).

I'm thinking with a coating, things have to be done in a certain way whereas with a wax or even a sealant, there might be more flexibility. I'm new to car detailing so please correct me. With a coating, the condition of the car has to be really clean so the coating can do its job. After that, it might protect for 1 +/- year. However, I'm wondering how does one know when the coating has worn off. With a wax, one might wait 2 months and reapply it. With a coating, how does one know? When the water stops beading? Also, with a coating, if one wants to polish the car for whatever reason, I think the coating has to be reapplied. With a wax, it's a bit easier to just reapply it.

Is a sealant somewhat in the middle? It can be somewhat more flexible to live with but may offer longer protection than a usual wax.

I will try to do as much of my own detailing as possible. The fact that I'm so new to all this, I don't want to apply a coating improperly. Maybe down the road I can learn to do it but right now, a good wax might be the answer for me. I'm looking for a protection for at least a month. Appreciate your feedback.

Thanks Accumulator.
 
Nav45- I agree with all of your points regarding coatings vs. conventional LSPs.

SOME sealants last longer than durable waxes like Collinite, but some don't. You won't go wrong with the 845 and being able to use it on trim is a plus.

I myself use FK1000P on almost all of my vehicles. It's called a wax, but it's really a paste sealant IMO. (I view sealants as basically synthetic waxes and I don't worry about the nuanced details of such stuff.) You should keep FK1000P off trim, but it looks nice, lasts longer than most anything else I can think of, and cleans up very easily at every wash. That's what I'd use.

So yeah...do a reasonable correction and then wax it with something and work on your maintenance wash technique. Either 845 or FK1000P would be my recommendation. Heh heh, I sure sympathize with your situation as there are just *SO* many different products and approaches! Easy for it to become overwhelming, huh?
 
Accumulator said:
Nav45- I agree with all of your points regarding coatings vs. conventional LSPs.

SOME sealants last longer than durable waxes like Collinite, but some don't. You won't go wrong with the 845 and being able to use it on trim is a plus.

I myself use FK1000P on almost all of my vehicles. It's called a wax, but it's really a paste sealant IMO. (I view sealants as basically synthetic waxes and I don't worry about the nuanced details of such stuff.) You should keep FK1000P off trim, but it looks nice, lasts longer than most anything else I can think of, and cleans up very easily at every wash. That's what I'd use.

So yeah...do a reasonable correction and then wax it with something and work on your maintenance wash technique. Either 845 or FK1000P would be my recommendation. Heh heh, I sure sympathize with your situation as there are just *SO* many different products and approaches! Easy for it to become overwhelming, huh?
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Hey Accumulator, I checked out FK1000P and it seems to be a great product - very durable, long lasting and looks good. I also saw a video of it being applied by hand and it seemed to be an easy application (at least visually). From what I've read, it's one of the longest lasting waxes/sealants around. Can it be applied to glass? If so, I might really be interested in it. If I get it, I will try to work around the trim.

I have to say that I'm trying to try out a few products on my current car so I know what to use on my next car. The next car will have some areas with a lot of trim and also in tight spots. So this is where the 845 might be better but it's not a big deal. I am flexible with either product. I guess I'll flip a coin or something :P.

I will definitely try to work on the washing technique even though it will be outdoors in the South. I know where to come when I need more help and suggestions when it's time for a 2 bucket/foam wash, hehe.

Thanks!
 
Merlin said:
I'm sorry maybe I missed it.

What color is your paint?
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Merlin, the color is Galaxy Gray Mica.

Some pics:
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Thank you.
 

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Nav45- Looking at the pics, that's a color I *would* like FK1000P on, but that's just me.

On the other vehicle, here's something to consider (note that I've had quite a few trim-heavy vechicles ;) ), you don't have to apply the FK1000P very often, so it's not a "frequent struggle" to keep it off trim or to do the tight spots. On my Crown Vic (black plastic trim), I use the FK1000P and do the trim with Ultima Tire and Trim Guard Plus, one of those "trim sealants". Works great, I hardly ever have to redo it (but then, it's garaged).

I've never applied FK1000P to glass, I'm just not in the "LSP your glass" camp.

OK, OK...I'll quit with the hard-sell now!
 
Hey Accumulator, FK1000P sales won't be hurting with you around :D.

I've had issues with products getting on trim in the past and the staining was not removed easily so I'm cautious whenever someone says a product might cause trim staining. I've used Mother's Back to Black on the trim before but that only lasted a couple of weeks for me. I've been looking at trim coatings or sealants. Good to know about the UTTG.

Alright, FK1000P has moved up the list now! You're pretty good at this, LOL.

One question though: How would something like Ultima Paint Guard Plus compare with FK1000P? I live in the South where it gets hot and often humid as you know.

The Ultima Paint Guard Plus seems very easy to apply and seems to last for months. It is also made to be used on glass and other exterior surface. From what I've read, the water glides off the glass. Seems like a very nice product. The FK1000P gets great reviews about its long lasting durability but it may not be as easy to apply though this is not a big deal. I'm not sure which product would give a better and glossier look so that's also somewhat important.

I plan on washing the car with a two bucket method probably every other week or so. Maybe sometimes a bit longer, we will see. Not sure if this will factor in what product to choose. Thanks.
 
Nav45- Heh heh, yeah...FK oughta pay me a commission, or at least send me a free tin of the FK1000P!

Sorry, never tried the Ultima Paint Guard Plus. Heh heh, you could always do a comparison! IME the way the FK sheds dirt makes it easier to wash marring-free, no need to "scrub" to get things clean. And I sometimes go a long time between washes, allowing the vehicle to get awfully dirty (literally so dirty that you can't easily tell what color it is).

The FK1000P oughta do fine in hot/humid conditions. I don't put much stock in its description as a "High Temperature Wax!" (eh, ad-copy hyperbole IMO), but I *do* put stock in this- it was originally developed to be the industry-best mold release wax, and that's a very demanding application. Most such waxes don't work all that well on paint, that FK1000P does is a pleasant fluke.

I've never had big trim-staining issues with the FK1000P. I even applied it (intentionally) to the trim of the Yukon XLD I used to have and it worked out fine. BUT other people have had staining issues, and I was very careful to do a Wipe-On-Wipe-Off application with *VERY* thorough buffing to ensure that there was no excess product residue in the texture of the trim so, in other words, "Don't Try This At Home, Kids!" But the real point is that if you do the trim with the Ultima *first*, and then when applying the FK1000P you're careful to *immediately and thoroughly* buff off any that gets on the trim, you should be OK.

Eh, I was always *very* prejudiced against LSPs that were prone to trim-staining. I wouldn't use some otherwise great ones because of that concern (e.g., 1 Grand's Blitz Wax on my Jaguar). But now I'm all about the FK; I don't think it's as much a case of my changing my mind about how serious the issue can be but rather that I've found it simply *isn't* a serious issue with that product.
 
That is a satisfied customer if there ever was one! Appreciate the information about FK1000P. Good to know that it makes cleaning quite a bit easier.

I've seen some videos and they are definitely convincing if one needs to be convinced. So you just apply with with a foam applicator pad? I've never applied a true wax before. Yes, I am quite inexperienced but that doesn't mean I can't learn a thing or two from the pros! In my mind, heh, I've already got it all figured out (sometimes) ;)

I'll buy this one to apply it:

Round Foam Wax Applicator for Car Wax and Paint Sealants

What towel would you recommend for buffing it off?

I wonder if this wax can be applied to exterior glass. I might try a panel and see how it goes.

Thank you Accumulator! Maybe we can get an FK1000P fan club going when I get mine in :cool:
 
I think I'm going to be ordering shortly but just wanted to list some products before I do:

DA machine: Griot's Garage

Polish: CarPro Reflect

Backing plate: 5 inch Lake Country or Meguiar's

Clay: Detailer's Universal Detailing Clay and Lube Combo

Polish remover/paint cleaner: CarPro Eraser

Wax or sealant: Ultimate Paint Guard Plus or FK1000P

Pads: ?

Some very nice people here have suggested some pads to use: Lake Country Hydro-Tech and Lake Country CCS. I am not sure which would be better at removing swirls and also leaving a great finish. I know that different colors mean how light or aggressive the pad is but I'm still confused. In some LC brand lines, the white is less aggressive but in others it's another color. Also I can't tell a big difference between the Hydro-Tech pads and the CCS pads except that the HT might be better for water based polishes?

Thank you guys for the help!
 
pwaug said:
Nav45--You might want to look into the Buff & Shine 5.5" flat pads (the B&S 5" backing plate is very reasonably priced also). They are very durable and have a recessed Velcro which adds a margin of safety when working around protruding structures on the car.

Here's an article by Mike Phillips regarding the number of pads to buy-- How many pads do I need to buff out my car? - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
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They seem like good pads though they cost higher than many other pads. But they might be a great quality.

This is the one right?

Amazon.com: Buff and Shine 5.5-inch Green Foam Polishing Pad: Automotive

You are right about the backing plate - great deal.

I will check that video out. Thanks pwaug!
 
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