Is Menz FG400 too hard for an infrequent DIYer to control?

DWPC

DWPC

New member
I posted a couple days ago about my black Cayenne came with some swirly areas that laughed at my finish polish last year, and got many good suggestions for more aggressive polish this time. I've also heard from guys on a Porsche forum that the clear coat used on Cayennes is not the same as on 911s; it's much harder and doesn't respond well to the Megs UC I had intended to use. Menz FG400 sounds like a potential solution for my problem...but I worry that it's to difficult for someone with light experience to control? Will it work with a DA? What pads are recommended for FG400? I'd rather spend more time on the swirls with UC if it will actually work on a hard clear coat, than get in over my head with a pro compound that's very touchy.
 
Last edited:
DWPC said:
I posted a couple days ago about my black Cayenne came with some swirly areas that laughed at my finish polish last year, and got many good suggestions for more aggressive polish this time. I've also heard from guys on a Porsche forum that the clear coat used on Cayennes is not the same as on 911s; it's much harder and doesn't respond well to the Megs 105 I had intended to use. Menz FG400 sounds like a potential solution for my problem...but I worry that it's to difficult for someone with light experience to control? Will it work with a DA? What pads are recommended for FG400? I'd rather spend more time on the swirls with 105 if it will actually work on a hard clear coat, than get in over my head with a pro compound that's very touchy.
Click to expand...

For me FG400 is much easier to work with than M105. It has a longer working time very little dusting if any. I use a DA and Megs MF pads or LC flat pads.
 
FG400 is a super friendly compound, even on a DA. Everyone here tells me they know who's in the garage when they smell FG400 lol. When you want glossy paint fast, use FG400 :). Which polisher are you using? This will help us recommend a pad.
 
Agree with Ray (Vega). This stuff is very easy to use. Just make sure you run it through the buffing cycle and that's about all you need to know. So usually 4 section passes with good downward pressure followed by 2 lighter section passes. I use GG6 with LC Orange flat pads. Here's an Armada I did which had a medium hard clear coat and was trashed. This was my first time using FG400 on a whole car. Due to time, cost, and the fact we were heading into winter, I went straight to sealant after the FG400. This was a repeat customer, so I'll hit it with a finer polish next time he's in. I'm a DIYer/weekend warrior/non-pro too. If I can do it, you can do it!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140823_134526.jpg
    IMG_20140823_134526.jpg
    189.8 KB · Views: 53
Sir, I have confidence in you, and I am not saying that to suck-up. Honestly, you could probably gently wet sand and remove those sanding marks with your fg400 if you just watch a couple of good instructional YT videos.
 
wdmaccord said:
Agree with Ray (Vega). This stuff is very easy to use. Just make sure you run it through the buffing cycle and that's about all you need to know. So usually 4 section passes with good downward pressure followed by 2 lighter section passes. I use GG6 with LC Orange flat pads. Here's an Armada I did which had a medium hard clear coat and was trashed. This was my first time using FG400 on a whole car. Due to time, cost, and the fact we were heading into winter, I went straight to sealant after the FG400. This was a repeat customer, so I'll hit it with a finer polish next time he's in. I'm a DIYer/weekend warrior/non-pro too. If I can do it, you can do it!
Click to expand...

Just do this above ----

Forget sanding anything... Its not needed... Its dangerous if done incorrectly... Its dangerous if you watch a video and think that now you are an expert because you watched a video...

Good luck with your project - I am sure you will be happy..
Dan F
 
Vega@Autopia said:
FG400 is a super friendly compound, even on a DA. Everyone here tells me they know who's in the garage when they smell FG400 lol. When you want glossy paint fast, use FG400 :). Which polisher are you using? This will help us recommend a pad.
Click to expand...
I use a HF DA. (No flaming please! I lived a few blocks from a HF store.) I'm looking at either Megs cutting pad (dark red) or their microfiber pad with the FG400.
 
DWPC said:
I use a HF DA. (No flaming please! I lived a few blocks from a HF store.) I'm looking at either Megs cutting pad (dark red) or their microfiber pad with the FG400.
Click to expand...

If you haven't used MF before, definitely try to practice with it somehow. I practiced a couple times on a couple panels of my daughters car and still don't have the hang of it. It would be tough for me at this point in my learning curve to use MF on an entire vehicle. I'll keep practicing until I get it though because I'm sure I'll run into a car someday that I will have to use it to get the results I want.

Forgot to mention in my post above, I used speed 5.5 with the GG6. I think it might be a little more powerful than the HF so I would go at the highest speed. For the last 2 lighter passes I would drop down to 4.5
 
I use a lot of Menzerna products and FG400 is my go-to for cutting.

They key is a slow arm speed and decent downward pressure for the first 4 or so passes, then lighten up on the pressure for the last 2 or 3 passes.

Remember that most of your cutting will happen in the first few passes and the last few are really aimed at refining the finish.

It has a long working time and will dust very little if worked properly.

On a machine like a rotary or flex 3401, you actually want to slow the machine speed down to around 3 or 3.5 (this helps tremendously with the dusting). On a Harbor freight DA I would be looking at no more than speed 5.

I am not sure what pads you have but would suggest nothing larger than a 5.5" pad, and preferably the thinner the pad, the better.

I prefer using Lake Country Hydrotechs on a traditional 8mm free spining DA - Cyan for cutting, tangerine for polishing and crimson for finishing/LSP.

Just remember that this is a DAT polish unlike UC which is SMAT - this means you MUST work it through its cycle to allow it to work as intended - somewhere in the region of 6 to 8 passes per section.
 
The Driver said:
Why not try 205 + kbm ;)
Click to expand...

Eh, I dunno....even Kevin said that the use of M205 (a Finishing Polish) for serious correction isn't something he'd really recommend as a normal approach. If using a Meguiar's product, I'd just use one of their (newer) compounds with the KBM. DWPC said that his clear seems hard, so trying to "push" a mild product into compound-like behavior seems like a tough way to accomplish serious correction.
 
DWPC said:
What's "KBM"?
Click to expand...

The Kevin Brown Method. Kevin clearly explained what is probably the most efficient (and also most effective) way to use certain abrasive products, specifically M105/M205 (same method applies to many, but not all, other nondiminshing abrasive products).
 
Accumulator said:
The Kevin Brown Method. Kevin clearly explained what is probably the most efficient (and also most effective) way to use certain abrasive products, specifically M105/M205 (same method applies to many, but not all, other nondiminshing abrasive products).
Click to expand...

Is this aka the "smack" method? If so, I think that is more geared towards using a FLEX if I remember correctly?? Please correct me if I'm wrong so I don't confuse anyone further. :)
 
You will have no trouble using fg400, or any other menzerna products. I have never been disappointed in anything I have used by Menzerna.
 
wdmaccord said:
Is this aka the "smack" method? If so, I think that is more geared towards using a FLEX if I remember correctly?? Please correct me if I'm wrong so I don't confuse anyone further. :)
Click to expand...

Actually geared towards the rupes as it's effectiveness is based on the rupes long throw.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top