Is Menz FG400 too hard for an infrequent DIYer to control?

DWPC said:
How cold is too cold for FG400? My garage isn't heated and I generally have temps in 50s this time of year.
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50's is fine, the paint may be a little harder but no big deal. If you were in the 30's I'd say you might get a bit frustrated.

I did a CTS-V with FG in the 30's and I'll never do that again. It took forever to correct.
 
Accumulator said:
Eh, I dunno....even Kevin said that the use of M205 (a Finishing Polish) for serious correction isn't something he'd really recommend as a normal approach. If using a Meguiar's product, I'd just use one of their (newer) compounds with the KBM. DWPC said that his clear seems hard, so trying to "push" a mild product into compound-like behavior seems like a tough way to accomplish serious correction.
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I do agree but in my experience it's more based on the pad (Ie MF to enhance the cutting ability) an machine (Stroke length to enhance the cut speed). That said on soft paint that method flat out rips. I don't think the KBM method is possible with out a 15mm or high length, atleast not a very effective one.
 
wdmaccord said:
Is this aka the "smack" method? If so, I think that is more geared towards using a FLEX if I remember correctly?? Please correct me if I'm wrong so I don't confuse anyone further. :)
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No.... 'Smack' AKA Mike's (dedicated perfection on most forums) method is focused on using Menzerna Products with the Flex.

The KBM is geared toward 105/205 use
 
Kevin came up with the KBM using an *original model* PC, but it's generally applicable to any ro/da. I don't know if he's ever experimented much with a Flex 3401, don't recall that he had last time we talked. But no, it's *NOT* a Rupes/long-stroke-centric approach. In my view, the most important aspects of the KBM are kinda just common-sense things with regard to how those products work: prime properly, work sections properly, use the right amount of product, clean/swap ou pads properly, etc. Some people acted like he'd come up with something revolutionary, but honestly it never seemed that way to me- and *NO* that's no slam at Kevin, whom I consider a pal; he and I have talked this out plenty.


The Driver- Ah, OK. The longest-stroke polisher I have is the Cyclo, never tried a Rupes. Plus, all my vehicles have hard clear except for the (too old/fragile to correct) single stage on the Jag. Since I basically never work on anbody else's car (well, one old Jag for a pal....) I guess have a somewhat limited take on corrective abilities.
 
Lots of great advice; I'm now thinking FG400 on Megs foam cutting pads, finished with the 1Z Paint Polish (I have on hand), then wax. With FG400, is there any need for a mid-range polish (IP2000) before the finish polish & wax?
 
DWPC- I used a *LOT* of 1ZPP back in the day, so I sure don't hate it, but you'll have to see if it gives a good enough final finish for your taste. Never used the FG400 so I can't say whether the 1ZPP will work OK without an intermediate step.
 
DWPC said:
Lots of great advice; I'm now thinking FG400 on Megs foam cutting pads, finished with the 1Z Paint Polish (I have on hand), then wax. With FG400, is there any need for a mid-range polish (IP2000) before the finish polish & wax?
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Definitely not, in this day an age there should be almost no need for a "mid range corrective polish. Any new age polish like FG can cover a scale of say 1-7 (1 being the worst) an most finishers like 205, menz 2500,3000 or sonax's 3/6 an 4/6 will have absolutley no problem covering that last 8-10 which is more of glossing an clarifying the paint rather than correction.

In todays day an age there's 4 total steps MAX for polishing.

1.Orange peel removal - VERY invasive either by sanding or by a hybrid method using denim and aio cutters like FG. I've done this, when done right you can combine this with step 2 and make it in one pass. NEVER attempt this without practice and a paint depth gauge and on OEM paint is suicide.

2.Compounding - what most of us are used to to remove rids and deep neglects. This is referred to as the cutter.

3.Polishing - what we use to remove light wash swirls, marring and other light topical stuff. This is referred to as the finisher.

4. Jeweling/burnishing - essentially clarifying the paint. This isn't correcting the paint but merely making it deeper, glossier and most of all clearer. I only do this on show cars or collector cars. 99% of people who get corrections won't have this done.

Both 1 and 4 are extreme's and for the most part never used, nor do they need to be. Those are for extreme guys who purposely get heavy amounts of clear sprayed to be shaved, leveled and want serious show quality.
 
OK, guys, I'm convinced...dropping the IP2000 from the order and adding FP3000 to finish. If I get too anal over a black daily driver I'll go nuts. I'll use the 1Z polish on the next project, my Hummer H3T.
 
I got rid of Ip an Sip a while ago, FG eliminated all of them. From 3000 an up is where the gloss is higher than FG. Personally, this is just me speaking (Don't hold me to it) but I swear I think 3000 has more gloss than Sf4000. I don't know why but to me it always appears a bit richer.
 
do yourself a favor and ditch the 1z paint polish if your using a machine.

For a DIY guy, Menzerna FG400, SF4000, Megs MF Cutting disks and a polish/finish pad will get you through just about ANYTHING the paint can challenge you with.
 
plumbnsquare said:
do yourself a favor and ditch the 1z paint polish if your using a machine..
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I used a *LOT* of 1ZPP back a decade or so ago, but yeah...these days it's not something I'd reach for. Now if somebody already has a can on the shelf and wants to use it up as a quick single-polishing-step I wouldn't argue. If nothing else, it's *VERY* user-friendly stuff, and if you're tuckered out after the polishing its wax will tide you over so you can LSP after the next wash.
 
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