Z32 twin turbo

F

FairladyZ32

New member
still looking for tips on how to brighten up my silver z. :help:



i'm a first time user of menzerna products using pc7424. it's either hard to bring out the deep shine on a silver or i just plain suck. :doh i have 100x better result in my black audi.



front bumper and nose panel need some more work. paint is less than a month old and i have been applying 3m hand glaze just about everyday. i may need to get them re-sprayed with clearcoat professionally since meguiars #95 together with menzerna didn't do much to it.



here's what i used:

menzerna super intensive polish (lc orange pad)

menzerna final polish 2 (lc white pad)

meguiars nxt

meguiars mirror glaze (lc gray pad)



wheels:

meguiars wheel brightener (i love this stuff!)



CIMG2831.jpg




CIMG2830.jpg




CIMG2832.jpg




thanks for looking!
 
Kind of off-topic, but you really shouldn't wax paint for at least 30 days after it is sprayed (some paint requires 60-90 days).
 
the clearcoat was sprayed by me. mind you, it was an aerosol. however, it was ppg paint according to the paint shop, but i didn't get the actual part #. i'm looking around for shops who can spray a quality clearcoat on the bumper, so chime in pls!



to clarify, only the bumper and nose panel are freshly painted. the rest of the body is about 4 years old.
 
It's best remove that rattle can clear and start over. That 1K lacquer based clear may

not be the best thing to clear over again with a quality 2k urethane clear.



How did you spray the base coat? And what is it?



Flashtime = Han :)
 
hey Han, nice to see you here. i also posted this in autobody101 with more pics.



the basecoat was sprayed the same, by aerosol. i couldn't afford the quote you gave me so i opt for the cheap route for now. i believe the base coat was ppg as well. do you recommend sanding the clear down and spray a 2k clear on it? i saw the spray max 2k hi gloss clear aerosol and hopefully that'll do the trick. for real though, i think i'm just going to have a body shop have a shot at it. so how much do you think this will cost me? =)
 
I recommend sanding it all off. And in the process (DA P180), 90% of the paint

will be removed going to raw plastic. It's more work and materials so the price

of doing it right goes up. More than what i quoted earlier...



The Spraymax doesn't cost too much and at this point, it may not hurt to try it.

If you still have some left overs, do a test panel. Get a scrap piece, spray the

base and clear, wait a few days, sand down and try the Spraymax over it. But

the pot life is short once activated. I don't use 1k aerosol clears so i have no idea

on compatibility/durability. But if you're willing to wait an indefinite amount of time

i have a few cans of Spraymax to mess with. MARTINSR is testing out their 2K

primer; he likes it so far. I'm just waiting for the right cheapie repair job to come

along so i can test this stuff. It's for guys like you and not for profit. :)



For a rattle can job, it doesn't look all that bad. Silvers are very forgiving too.
 
sanding it down bare? man, that's a lot of work, just thinking about it.



yeah, i saw martinsr's thread, but kinda not updating it for awhile. autobody101 is pretty slow nowadays. i guess people have learned their stuff already.



i must believe in rattle cans! haha. i'll order a can of spray max 2k clear. do you happen to know if the 2k clear coat high gloss and rapid cut-in has a lot of differences in terms of shine?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top