Yet again, Makita 9227 of Flex 3401 RO?

jchambers

New member
I know everyone asks which should I get and such and I have done quite a bit of searching on the Flex and makita both. However, my UDM just went down and I was just going to get the flex and now wondering if I should get the makita instead. I have no experience with a rotary. The main reason I am thinking of a rotary, is that I am soooo detail oriented when it comes to cleaning anything, that it takes me forever to do a detail. I spent 16 hours on my last one for $100. Im losing money because I dont know when to stop. My thinking is a rotary should help cut that down quite a bit. Any suggestions?
 
For reasons undisclosed I need to purchase from Autogeek and the one I see other than the 3401 is FLEX LK603VVB. I dont think it is lightweight lol. Had you ever used a rotary before buying the flex?
 
Yeah, for quite a while...tried several different ones, but I bought a Porter Cable rotary cause it was cheap. The gearbox on it finally gave out.



The 9227 is a very nice machine, and it's quiet. The 3403 is a bit noisy, but I'll trade the noise for the light weight. The only other drawback to the 3403 is that the drive shaft gets pretty hot, and transmits the heat to the backing plate, causing it and the attached pad to get hotter than normal. It hasn't really caused an issue... probably more of an annoyance than anything.
 
Can't go wrong with Makita. Have only had one problem with it in four years. I bought a couple back ups for different locations (job and home) due to good price. Sorry you had to join the (had problems with my UDM club). Since David is such a nice guy and Autopia has such fantastic service no none wants to come clean on the disaster that is the UDM. The machine works great when it is working but when a site is having sales on refurbished units doesn't that say something.
 
Vote for Makita also. If you respect it, you will be ok. Main rule of thumb is to keep it below 1500 rpm (Setting 3). You will be amazed at how fast you can complete your details. Time is money. Somewhere down the line though you should get another DA to replace your UDM. They do come in handy.
 
I own a 3401 and will be getting my Makita shortly. Anyways I think if your only going to have 1 that the Makita might be the rotary(if you want a rotary) to get. Its heavy duty and everybody seems to like it. I looked into the Metabo and 3403 Flex but I can't deal with any kind of thermal shutdown when im working, I want heavy duty reliability.
 
Is the rotary really that much of a time saver? I've been a pc, then udm convert and love it. I just hate how long and how much patience they take!
 
dsms said:
I own a 3401 and will be getting my Makita shortly. Anyways I think if your only going to have 1 that the Makita might be the rotary(if you want a rotary) to get. Its heavy duty and everybody seems to like it. I looked into the Metabo and 3403 Flex but I can't deal with any kind of thermal shutdown when im working, I want heavy duty reliability.



I've used my 3403 for eight hours straight with only two 15 minute snack breaks and it never did a thermal shutdown. I don't think the 3403 has the reputation of thermal shutdowns like the Metabo does.



BBS01 said:
Is the rotary really that much of a time saver? I've been a pc, then udm convert and love it. I just hate how long and how much patience they take!



Yes. Using a rotary will cut your polishing time down by *at least* half.
 
BBS01 said:
Is the rotary really that much of a time saver? I've been a pc, then udm convert and love it. I just hate how long and how much patience they take!



Absolutely. Less than 10 minutes of polishing on the *good* side.



2001_BMW_325i_left_polished21.jpg




Meguiars #105 mixed with Optimum Compound, Meguiars yellow polishing pad and 1000 rpms. Very minimal holograms, cleaned right up with 3M Ultrafina.
 
Ha Scott....



To think back in the days...u were still polishing by hand while everyone was using a PC. Remember those days ;-)
 
dsms said:
I own a 3401 and will be getting my Makita shortly. Anyways I think if your only going to have 1 that the Makita might be the rotary(if you want a rotary) to get. Its heavy duty and everybody seems to like it. I looked into the Metabo and 3403 Flex but I can't deal with any kind of thermal shutdown when im working, I want heavy duty reliability.



I haven't heard a case of a 3403 having TS yet. I've only seen one person really mention thermal shutdown issues with the Metabo, but FWIW he now owns two 3403's. I don't think he owns two of them for any reason other than the fact he likes them A LOT.



I have a Metabo,but I haven't gotten a chance to give it a run through.
 
Scottwax said:
Absolutely. Less than 10 minutes of polishing on the *good* side.



2001_BMW_325i_left_polished21.jpg




Meguiars #105 mixed with Optimum Compound, Meguiars yellow polishing pad and 1000 rpms. Very minimal holograms, cleaned right up with 3M Ultrafina.





You got me sold. Now I know a Makita will be worth it. I use M105 now and so far have been happy with it, never tried mixing another product with it though. Will SIP do ok to make it work longer or should I go with OC?
 
Hey man if you are gonna get the Makita. Coastaltool has a great deal on it, with a backing plate, two wool pads and a carrying bag for 169+ship :) Not bad at all.
 
I am a firm believer in the Makita . I have been using the same Makita for over 8 years now and I have never had a problem with it . I do take it apart and clean out any polishing dust from time to time and it has never let me down . I also agree that you will never need to use it at any speed higher than 3 . I have never used a PC or any other type of non rotary polisher . I learned on a rotary and that is how I have done every polish for the last 17 years . Rotary with 3 or 4 steps of pads-polishes and then on to hand applied wax . Lately I have been thinking about getting a PC just to see what all the fuss is about .



Cory
 
So, seeing that I have NO experience with a rotary, you guys are still saying get the Makita over the Flex DA? And maybe get another DA of some sort later on? Would you say the rotary is THAT much faster than a flex? I am being told the flex will cut down time from the udm around 40-50%. Is this true? Thanks guys!
 
jchambers said:
So, seeing that I have NO experience with a rotary, you guys are still saying get the Makita over the Flex DA? And maybe get another DA of some sort later on? Would you say the rotary is THAT much faster than a flex? I am being told the flex will cut down time from the udm around 40-50%. Is this true? Thanks guys!



If you have experience with a PC/UDM then I would say that going to a rotary is the next logical step. If it is "damage" that you are worried about, then know that the Flex can also do damge to paint. Far less likely, but it can. Each tool needs to be respected for its capabilities. A rotary, if respected, is far above any other polishing tool. Even with no experience I would get it and if you do not feel comfortable, get some practice panels. You will quickly find out that it is not as much of a bear that people make it out to be. Take it slow in the beginning. If you learn how to master wool pads then using foam will become a breeze. Stay in control of the rotary, and keep it moving. If you follow these procedures then you will not burn paint.



There are also some decent video out there on buffing with a rotary. Kevin Farrell's Buffing with confidence video (He uses a DeWalt but the priclple is the same) is a great primer for moving to the rotary. Always keeep in mind though that practice makes perfect.
 
jchambers said:
So, seeing that I have NO experience with a rotary, you guys are still saying get the Makita over the Flex DA? And maybe get another DA of some sort later on? Would you say the rotary is THAT much faster than a flex? I am being told the flex will cut down time from the udm around 40-50%. Is this true? Thanks guys!

I've been using the pc for 2 years and then udm for 1 and am finally jumping ship to the rotary. The pc and udm are more than enough for what i need them for but the rotary i hear cuts polishing time in half!
 
Well I believe they are talking me into the Flex when ordering. It makes sense though, sense I am about to take a traveling job and will not have time to learn on panels and such, Also like he stated, most people have to go back over with a DA for a last step anyway to remove any holograms and I dont have the money for 2 machines right now. thanks for all the help guys! I still want to make the jump at some point.
 
howareb said:
If you have experience with a PC/UDM then I would say that going to a rotary is the next logical step. If it is "damage" that you are worried about, then know that the Flex can also do damge to paint. Far less likely, but it can. Each tool needs to be respected for its capabilities. A rotary, if respected, is far above any other polishing tool. Even with no experience I would get it and if you do not feel comfortable, get some practice panels. You will quickly find out that it is not as much of a bear that people make it out to be. Take it slow in the beginning. If you learn how to master wool pads then using foam will become a breeze. Stay in control of the rotary, and keep it moving. If you follow these procedures then you will not burn paint.



There are also some decent video out there on buffing with a rotary. Kevin Farrell's Buffing with confidence video (He uses a DeWalt but the priclple is the same) is a great primer for moving to the rotary. Always keeep in mind though that practice makes perfect.



Other than being faster, what other benefits would a rotary have over the DA Flex (leaving price out of the equation)?
 
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