XMT4 vs. SSR3

C_Rock77

C_Rock77

Seeking the perfect shine
I've run into something on my most recent auto purchase (Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura Integra) with swirls and water spots on the paint. Being somewhat experienced with detailing and polishing, I felt like the swirls and light scratches could be taken care of with my trusty PC.

I tried cleaning up the hood the other day, and STILL have issues. The spots are etched....I don't have much doubt. I can't really FEEL them, but they're definitely there....and still there after a wash and a thorough claying.

I grabbed my go-to aggressive polish, SSR3, and tried on some of the deeper scratches with SOME success. Then, I worked on some of the spots on another panel and my Megs Maroon pad spun off the PC--the velcro backing just came off the pad. It looked like the adhesive just gave up! I feel like I need something a little more aggressive. I may need to see if I could find someone I'd trust to hit it with a Rotary.

Is XMT4 more aggressive than SSR3? I had a friend recommend some of the smaller pads (5"). Would you guys suggest anything else for this issue? The spots and scratches are pretty bad. I forgot how much work it is to bring a car up to my standards after it wasn't taken care of like I would!
 
Which pad are you using? Brand, size & color? A smaller and/or more aggressive pad will help.
 
You aren't going to find anything more aggressive than SSR3, other than a rotary of course. If you have XMT4 you can try it, but if you were planning on buying some, IMO that'd be a waste. Unless you think you'll finish off all of your SSR3 and XMT4. I have had SSR3 for 3 years now and there's still 1/2 a bottle left.

It sounds like you need to work a smaller area (less than 2' x 2') and focus on that area for a few minutes. At first the SSR3 will be like liquid sandpaper, but keep working it at speed 6 for a while, moving the PC slowly and applying a little bit of pressure. Take your time ... if that doesn't work than a wool pad and a rotary would be in order... or wetsanding.
 
Interesting question. I have XMT 3 and just bought a bottle of SSR3. I'm hoping the SSR3 is stronger than the XMT 3. Especially if you are comparing XMT 4 to SR3.
 
budman3 said:
It sounds like you need to work a smaller area (less than 2' x 2') and focus on that area for a few minutes. At first the SSR3 will be like liquid sandpaper, but keep working it at speed 6 for a while, moving the PC slowly and applying a little bit of pressure. Take your time ... if that doesn't work than a wool pad and a rotary would be in order... or wetsanding.
Click to expand...

Do you think a smaller pad (4" or 5") would help matters?
 
C_Rock77 said:
Do you think a smaller pad (4" or 5") would help matters?
Click to expand...

Yes it will. A lot of people have had better results by switching to a smaller pad. The low profile pads help some as well. The 5" low profile orange LC pad would work well. It won't be night and day from what you have now, but it will help. As budman said, it may require some rotary work or even wet sanding. Good luck.
 
If you have tried some vinegar to remove any surface water deposits and you definitely think the spots are etched into the paint, keep in mind....
You won't be removing the spots, you will be removing enough paint around them to level the finish.
That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean you will have to remove that paint from a fairly large area. With a PC, that can take a lot of time.
By a lot of time, I'm guessing 10 to 20 minutes per section, maybe longer, depending on how severe the etching is.
It would probably be 5 minutes work with a rotary and if I didn't have any better luck than you seem to be having, I would have a pro with a rotary take a pass at one area. Then you would know just what it is going to take to correct the problem. They might be something you will need to accept.
The pro with a rotary is easy for me to suggest since I have a friend that fits that description, but you very likely know someone that fits that bill. Maybe your local body shop could/would help.
 
I concur with Charles...the PC will do it but its like trying to cut threw a rock with dripping water...the rotary will do this in a matter of minutes.....plus with the rotary you can use less aggressive products and get better results...that will remove less top coat
 
i did a 99 accord with the same problem. i wet sanded it with 2500 sp then compounded with presta. the pc with pb purple(2.5?) with a orange pad. then pc'd with pb xp sealent. then waxed with cheapy butter wax. finish was just like oem. still retains the factory orange peal too. all spots removed. i did just the horizontal surfaces. total time about 4 hours.
 
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