Would like some feedback

[The Critic]

Hey guys,

I recently polished out most of my car and Opti-Coated, but the rear spoiler (soft black paint) was kicking my butt. Eventually, I gave up and just Opti-Coat that panel anyway.

However, I visited a forum member today and he was able to fix the area quite easily.

I'm sure most of the problem was technique-related, but I was still surprised by how I was barely able to make any progress while he was able to make drastic improvements in just minutes.

The original problem was deep swirls on the black spoiler. I tried to fix this using a 4" Suburf pad, M105, Flex 3401 on speed 5. This was done using 5-6 slow passes with medium pressure.

After this was done, the finish had a ton of micro-marring that looked exactly like this.

I tried the following products and process, and was only able to remove 30-40% of the marks:

1) 4" LC cyan with Meguiars M105, speed 5, 5 passes using slow movement with moderate pressure.

2) 4" LC white with HD Polish, speed 4, slow movement for the first 3-4 passes, then no pressure for 1 pass.

When I was done , a lot of the micro-marring and haze still remained.

However, when I took it to another forum member today - he used a Rupes 21, MF finishing disk, and a blend of D300 and M101. He did a couple passes and most/all of the remaining marks seem to be gone. I did notice that he used a fairly low speed on the Rupes (speed 3 iirc)

What could/should I have done differently? Should I have used a lower speed with less pressure? Would really appreciate some additional feedback. Thanks.

 

[mjlinane]

I also use lower speeds with the RUPES than I did before I got it. I have also started using speeds no more than 4 when I use my GG6 also and like those results too.

Pad and product selection is important but technique probably more so. I think that accounts for most of the disagreements over which product is "better" you see on the forums. Part of the reason for the "use what you like and use it often" advice is because some products respond differently to the technique used.

 

[JSFM35X]

I do not know who the other forum member was but this whole "business" is about technique. Equipment and product do play a part but there are loads of products and machines that can get you to where you want to be.

My guess is that the person you went to saw the damage and said in his mind, "OH, yeah..I have seen that before and I know that XYZ will solve the issue."

It is like anything else, you need to work through some rough patches until you have enough history to recognize the situation when you see it.

If you have an opportunity to take a class it will speed up you learning curve. Detailers Domain gives one in NJ. David Saunders taught it and I realize he is now in CA but I am not sure if he still does that type of class.

 

[mjlinane]

FWIW - I also have a personal speed limits with the GG6 related to the pad size:

6" - 6
5" - 5
4" - 4
3" - 3

(Kind of easy to remember. )

Also pad limits:

MF - 4
HydroTec - Size speed limit - 0.5

Plastics also get stepped down 0.5, too. They don't dissipate heat as well as metal.

Pressure: enough for the motor to just start to bog (you can hear it) but the pad still spins.

Note: RUPES technique uses far less pressure - pretty much just the machine weight.

Also, don't necessarily count your passes. Look for the correction/finish you want. If you don't get that before the compound/polish goes clear or dries, either clean up and start over or change product.